[trvlnmny]

What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

[Doug Winterburn]

On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.

[Larry Jaques[_3_]]

On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:50:16 -0700, Doug Winterburn
wrote:

On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.

Not oleander?

--
Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right,
but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks.
-- Jimmy Wales

[Doug Winterburn]

On 10/26/2010 10:19 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:50:16 -0700, Doug Winterburn
wrote:

On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.

Not oleander?

Maybe for your Mother-in-Law ;-)

[Josepi[_12_]]

We were talking "porous" not "abrasive"


"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
eb.com...
Maybe for your Mother-in-Law ;-)


On 10/26/2010 10:19 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 16:50:16 -0700, Doug Winterburn
wrote:

On 10/25/2010 04:33 PM, trvlnmny wrote:
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

Non porous such as hard maple and cherry.

Not oleander?

[John Grossbohlin[_2_]]

"trvlnmny" wrote in message
...
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

End grain maple.

John

[pierre]

On Oct 25, 7:33*pm, trvlnmny wrote:
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

What others have emphasized. Do not use open-pore woods, such as red
oak, ash, bass or mahogany. They tend to soak liquids. I would add to
not use exotic woods that contain "sand" or minerals that will dull
knives, such as teak. I have had good luck with cherry, maple, walnut
(all of which have nice contrast with one another), and beech. I like
the pattern/color (or lack of) of beech for boards.

You did not ask about finish, but I really like food-grade mineral
oil, which is sold at the pharmacy for "constipation" problems.There
are other finishes, but they tend to be more expensive, and, at least
in my experience, not any better.

Finally, research done by the U of Wisconsin-Madison shows that wood
boards are far superior to composite boards in eliminating bacteria.

Pierre

[Josepi[_12_]]

Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound that
eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar compound it
may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is another issue to
be considered, of course.

I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.


"pierre" wrote in message
...
What others have emphasized. Do not use open-pore woods, such as red
oak, ash, bass or mahogany. They tend to soak liquids. I would add to
not use exotic woods that contain "sand" or minerals that will dull
knives, such as teak. I have had good luck with cherry, maple, walnut
(all of which have nice contrast with one another), and beech. I like
the pattern/color (or lack of) of beech for boards.

You did not ask about finish, but I really like food-grade mineral
oil, which is sold at the pharmacy for "constipation" problems.There
are other finishes, but they tend to be more expensive, and, at least
in my experience, not any better.

Finally, research done by the U of Wisconsin-Madison shows that wood
boards are far superior to composite boards in eliminating bacteria.

Pierre

[-MIKE-]

On 10/26/10 10:07 AM, Josepi wrote:
I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.


You just make this stuff up, don't you?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

[RicodJour]

On Oct 26, 12:12*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/26/10 10:07 AM, Josepi wrote:

I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.

You just make this stuff up, don't you?

He's an odd duck. 'sI can't tell if he's a trollish noob, or a
noobish troll, but the stuff he comes up with is priceless...or
worthless - really both. It's interesting that in all the centuries
of oiling cutting boards, he the one guy that can't get it to work.

Maybe he should start contacting all of those silly cutting board
manufacturers and set them straight.
http://www.mapleblock.com/detail/care--maintenance-42/
http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54
Boos has only been doing it for 130 years. I'm sure they'd appreciate
the pointers.

R

[Swingman]

On 10/26/2010 12:15 PM, RicodJour wrote:

http://www.johnboos.com/content/1/54

Boos has only been doing it for 130 years. I'm sure they'd appreciate
the pointers.

What he said.

IMO, the best hard maple and walnut cutting boards, butcher blocks, and
counter tops available, bar none.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

[Josepi[_12_]]

That's the odd thing about your posts. You can go from discussion to
complete asshole in two seconds.

Do you ever think before you jump up and down and start being a omplete
jerk?


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
You just make this stuff up, don't you?





On 10/26/10 10:07 AM, Josepi wrote:
I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.

[-MIKE-]

On 10/26/10 12:50 PM, Josepi wrote:
That's the odd thing about your posts. You can go from discussion to
complete asshole in two seconds.

Do you ever think before you jump up and down and start being a omplete
jerk?


I apologize for offending you.

But maybe you shouldn't just make stuff up, if you don't want to be
called on it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

[Jim Weisgram[_2_]]

On Tue, 26 Oct 2010 11:07:29 -0400, "Josepi"
wrote:

Taht, IMHO, is the confusion. The research showed some toxic compound that
eliminates bacteria in maple. If red oak contained a similiar compound it
may be ideal for that application. The open pore thing is another issue to
be considered, of course.

I have tried all kinds of oil on my maple cutting board. It doesn't work
well. Heat the baord in the oven for an hour (gently) and rub it with a good
saturated fat (Crisco shortening) and you won't have to do it again for ten
years, if ever. That also should fill some pores. Oils can go rancid and
become toxic to humans when left out in air and warm.

[...snip...]
Walnut oil.

[[email protected][_2_]]

On Oct 25, 6:33*pm, trvlnmny wrote:
What type of wood do people recommend I use for cutting boards.
Thanks.

I like Beech. Maple works too. I guess anything not too aromatic or
porous with some weight (density) to it would work. In my opinion most
Cherry and Walnut boards are too porous and soft. Mineral Oil is a
safe bet for finishing, does not turn rancid