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#1
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Shop flooring
Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be
vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
#2
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Shop flooring
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#3
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Shop flooring
If you do go with an Oak floor, check some of your local auction houses. I
can buy mismatched oak flooring almost every weekend for about 50 cents a square foot vs ten times that at the Borg. I don't think it would be an issue moving tools around on it and it just seems more "right" to me than an epoxied concrete slab. That's my plan. Put down plywood with the Oak on top (vapor barrier on the bottom of course). -- Larry C in Auburn, WA "MJ Wallace" wrote in message om... Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
#4
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Shop flooring
MJ:
This is what I am considering for my basement shop. http://www.dricore.com/ The local Home Depot carries this stuff .It is usually stocked in the lumber section, not the flooring. Check it out. It will have a much lower profile than the cripplers and T&G plywood. I have concrete now and it is not comfortable at all. The rubber cleats on the bottom make it much softer on your feet. I have bought a few and created some mats to test it out and it is really good. HTH Rich "MJ Wallace" wrote in message om... Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
#5
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Shop flooring
I have 1x PT stock laid flat on the concrete, 3/4 rigid syrofoam
insulation between and 5/8" plywood over the top. My table saw, band saw, router table and flip top table (jointer/planer) all have mobile bases and have been rolled around for 2 years now without any "chewed up" issues. the mats would work as long as you don't have mobile bases as they would be "bumps in the road". BRuce MJ Wallace wrote: Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace -- --- BRuce |
#6
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Shop flooring
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#7
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Shop flooring
look into Sturdifloor 4x8 ply sheets. IIRC, it is 1 1/4"
thick. I used it in a shed and love it. Reasonably priced and just like it's name, it is sturdy. I would trip over mats and they get in the way of moving equipment anyway, like someone else mentioned. Dropping a scary sharp chisel on ply is more fun than dropping it on 'crete. dave MJ Wallace wrote: Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
#8
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Shop flooring
There is a book called "Setting Up Shop" by Sandor Nagyszalanczy
(Taunton Press) that talks a bit about painted and wooden flooring in a woodworking shop. I just glanced over that chapter and here is a quick synopsis. pros: allows you to run electrical and air lines beneath the floor allows you to use plastic sheeting as an added moisture barrier easier on the legs cons: more expensive to install shouldn't be used if you have a large problem with water seepage in the floor if you have fixed base tools or machinery that needs to be bolted down, you need to plan ahead to install extra runners where you plan to locate those tools. can amplify and transmit vibration noise reduced floor to ceiling clearance As far as aesthetics go, I think a wood floor would look much nicer than painted concrete and make the whole shop a much more cozy and comfortable place to work. Even in your situation where you are moving tools around a lot, I think a scraped up wood floor would have much more character than a scraped up painted concrete floor. You would also have the advantage of not having to wheel your heavy equipment around and over floormats. It might be worth your time to check out that chapter of that book to get more detailed information to allow you to weigh the pros and cons based on your individual situation. -Rick MJ Wallace wrote: Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
#9
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Shop flooring
Lot's of things to consider as far as which floor is best for a woodshop. But you may also want to consider what the choices will mean when/if you sell your home/shop. A wood floor may not be desirable to someone who wants to park cars, or maybe their hobby is metalworking. Working on cars on wood flooring would not be the best either. On the other hand, I cannot imagine anyone having a problem with an epoxy floor. Just a thought. -- ******** Bill Pounds http://www.billpounds.com "MJ Wallace" wrote in message om... Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
#10
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Shop flooring
Bay Area Dave wrote in message ...
look into Sturdifloor 4x8 ply sheets. IIRC, it is 1 1/4" thick. I used it in a shed and love it. Where did you get it? I'm in North SF Bay area. MJ Wallace |
#11
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Shop flooring
none other than the place many love to hate: Home Depot.
It's a wee bit heavy g, but hey, we're TOUGH guys!! Rah! Rah! dave MJ Wallace wrote: Bay Area Dave wrote in message ... look into Sturdifloor 4x8 ply sheets. IIRC, it is 1 1/4" thick. I used it in a shed and love it. Where did you get it? I'm in North SF Bay area. MJ Wallace |
#12
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Shop flooring
I would say the wood floor would be easier on you back and eliminate the
moving of maps when you move you tools. The epoxy paint on the floor would allow for easier clean-up and may selling of your house not a problem. Before you do decide checkout the Fine Woodworking Tools & Shops issue #160, Winter 2002/2003. It has a good article on installing a plywood floor that is temporary. John "Bay Area Dave" wrote in message . .. look into Sturdifloor 4x8 ply sheets. IIRC, it is 1 1/4" thick. I used it in a shed and love it. Reasonably priced and just like it's name, it is sturdy. I would trip over mats and they get in the way of moving equipment anyway, like someone else mentioned. Dropping a scary sharp chisel on ply is more fun than dropping it on 'crete. dave MJ Wallace wrote: Ok, I'm expecting that the painter will be vacating my new shop in a week. Question, I've been thinking of putting epoxy paint on the floor (new slab), but, a friend suggested a cheap oak floor. The wood floor would have to be nailed onto a substrate (1/2" ply?) on sleepers (PT?) - more time/money - but I'm willing do do it if, and big if, does it provide a better surface for standing - ie I've got back problems. Or should I just epoxy it and buy mats for the work areas? The shop is small that I will have to move things around a lot which means that the floor might get "chewed up" some over time, another consideration against wood flooring. Oh, yeah, what happens at the door? It's a garage door. Do you just terminate with some wood or do you finish it off some how? Suggestions/thoughts? Thanks in advance, MJ Wallace |
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