A cross cut uses a tooth set - one that bends each for the kerf.
On a rip saw the teeth are in-line. Little or no kerf added.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 7/27/2010 6:51 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:25:15 -0700, tonyfranciozi wrote:

I'm thinking about bidding on this saw:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=250670448957&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX: IT

Any idea what it's worth or how much time goes into sharpening a saw
like this one?

Just how difficult is it to do a decent sharpening job?

Thanks in advance

Not one of Disston's best, but not a bad saw. Take a look at:

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/d23page.html

The 10 ppi is a fairly rough cutting saw, not a finishing saw.

As far as sharpening, it requires a moderate amount of practice and the
proper files.

I wouldn't go over $15 including the shipping for a saw I'd never seen.
And $10 without shipping will buy you a good old Disston, or Atkins, or
Simonds, etc. if you're willing to invest some time going to estate sales.

Me, I'm partial to the Atkins "Silver Steel" line, but they are difficult
to find.