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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted
pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). Any guiding thoughts welcome! Thanks! Bill |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 23:55:09 -0400, "Bill" wrote:
I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The Unisaw is a RT (mirror image of mine) with a Biesemeyer fence. Can't tell how long because the fence is cut off in the picture. It doesn't look too old, but I'm not a Unisaw dating expert. The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. No information on the jointer. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). It should have one. The actual port may or may not be there, of course, but the part should be available. Any guiding thoughts welcome! If you can get the saw at the right price, go for it. Make sure all the pieces are there. Does it run? Rust? |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
wrote in message ... On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 23:55:09 -0400, "Bill" wrote: I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The Unisaw is a RT (mirror image of mine) with a Biesemeyer fence. Can't tell how long because the fence is cut off in the picture. It doesn't look too old, but I'm not a Unisaw dating expert. The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. No information on the jointer. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). It should have one. The actual port may or may not be there, of course, but the part should be available. Any guiding thoughts welcome! If you can get the saw at the right price, go for it. Make sure all the pieces are there. Does it run? Rust? Thank you for your feedback! I suspect the TS runs--and it probably got a share of use too based on the number of tools that are part of the estate. None of them look new. I'm not sure, but my guesstimate is that it could cost as much as $300 to have the TS moved (even though they wouldn't have to move it very far). Does your saw easily separate into 3 parts that could be moved by two people with a dolly and a U-Haul truck? Don't take the word "easily" too seriously...I just wonder what I'm up against. I may call a mover before I bid! : ) Since you were able to give me the model number, I'll try to learn more about the TS online--thanks! Bill |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 02:10:01 -0400, "Bill"
wrote: Thank you for your feedback! I suspect the TS runs--and it probably got a share of use too based on the number of tools that are part of the estate. None of them look new. I'm not sure, but my guesstimate is that it could cost as much as $300 to have the TS moved (even though they wouldn't have to move it very far). Does your saw easily separate into 3 parts that could be moved by two people with a dolly and a U-Haul truck? Don't take the word "easily" too seriously...I just The saw is a late model right tilt Uni with what looks to be the commercial 52" Biesemeyer fence. It's a good saw and as others have mentioned, you might check to see if it's 3 phase. Moving it is not much of a problem if you have a helper. The top comes off with 4 bolts and you can leave the fence connected if you are careful and have help to move it. Removing the motor is a good idea. That takes the pressure off the trunnions when moving. After that, it can be wheeled around easily. Mike O. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 10:36:35 -0500, Mike O. wrote:
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 02:10:01 -0400, "Bill" wrote: Thank you for your feedback! I suspect the TS runs--and it probably got a share of use too based on the number of tools that are part of the estate. None of them look new. I'm not sure, but my guesstimate is that it could cost as much as $300 to have the TS moved (even though they wouldn't have to move it very far). Does your saw easily separate into 3 parts that could be moved by two people with a dolly and a U-Haul truck? Don't take the word "easily" too seriously...I just The saw is a late model right tilt Uni with what looks to be the commercial 52" Biesemeyer fence. It's a good saw and as others have mentioned, you might check to see if it's 3 phase. Moving it is not much of a problem if you have a helper. The top comes off with 4 bolts and you can leave the fence connected if you are careful and have help to move it. Removing the motor is a good idea. That takes the pressure off the trunnions when moving. After that, it can be wheeled around easily. Note that these things are shipped from the factory in one piece (top on, wings off) so, other than ease of moving, I don't see a reason to pull it apart. *DON'T LIFT IT BY THE TOP OR WINGS. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 02:10:01 -0400, "Bill" wrote:
wrote in message .. . On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 23:55:09 -0400, "Bill" wrote: I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The Unisaw is a RT (mirror image of mine) with a Biesemeyer fence. Can't tell how long because the fence is cut off in the picture. It doesn't look too old, but I'm not a Unisaw dating expert. The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. No information on the jointer. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). It should have one. The actual port may or may not be there, of course, but the part should be available. Any guiding thoughts welcome! If you can get the saw at the right price, go for it. Make sure all the pieces are there. Does it run? Rust? Thank you for your feedback! I suspect the TS runs--and it probably got a share of use too based on the number of tools that are part of the estate. None of them look new. I'm not sure, but my guesstimate is that it could cost as much as $300 to have the TS moved (even though they wouldn't have to move it very far). Does your saw easily separate into 3 parts that could be moved by two people with a dolly and a U-Haul truck? Don't take the word "easily" too seriously...I just wonder what I'm up against. With two people and a dolly? *Easily*, whole. It weighs about 600lbs, but it's not awkward at all. You might want to bring a couple of 2x's to use as blocking to lift it so you can slide the dolly under. Getting it into a truck might be more difficult, but a trailer should be a piece of cake. I may call a mover before I bid! : ) Since you were able to give me the model number, I'll try to learn more about the TS online--thanks! That's a good plan. Don't get caught in a bidding war, though. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Bill" wrote in message ... I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ It looks like the front rail of the saw, is not parallel with the edge of the top--it looks like the rail is slanting downward to the right. Does this suggest a problem? |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Bill" wrote in message ... "Bill" wrote in message ... I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ It looks like the front rail of the saw, is not parallel with the edge of the top--it looks like the rail is slanting downward to the right. Does this suggest a problem? Looks like a bad photo angle to me... the camera angle is introducing distortion. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Bill" wrote in message ... I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ In case anyone likes old-looking tools, I added a DP. Is this 1950's vintage? It's not running on phase-3 power, is it? |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
I would expect the auction site listing to include whether or not the
tools have single or 3 phase motors and some semblance of the working condition of the tools. As best I can tell, they are all single phase, but I can't be absolutely sure. If the auction site is well known, I would expect the bidding on the table saw to reach at least $600. $300 is wishful thinking. Even at $600 to $800, I think the deal would be reasonable, if the motor is single phase. I wouldn't bid more than half the price of a new saw. Though there may seem to be a discrepancy with the front rail alignment to the table top, that may be a product of the picture. The rail, itself, looks straight. If it is bent, it is bent at the location of the fence and it is hard to imagine how the rail would become bent at that location. I would expect the jointer to go for about $600, as well. My bidding guesstimates are based on my online auction bidding and observations experience for similar tools. I wouldn't expect that shop to have updated tools and still have a 1950s vintage drill press. That drill press is much more recent than 1950. Those are nice tools. It takes a hell of a lot of abuse to damage those quality of tools. I suspect they run and run well. I would suspect they are in good shape. If there is some "damage", it is likely to be minor. Sonny |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 06:12:20 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote:
I would expect the auction site listing to include whether or not the tools have single or 3 phase motors and some semblance of the working condition of the tools. As best I can tell, they are all single phase, but I can't be absolutely sure. If the auction site is well known, I would expect the bidding on the table saw to reach at least $600. $300 is wishful thinking. Even at $600 to $800, I think the deal would be reasonable, if the motor is single phase. I wouldn't bid more than half the price of a new saw. Just for a data point, I bought a new LT version of that saw for $1600 last year. $600 to $800 would be a good price, assuming it is in good condition (very little rust, nothing missing, 1PH, and working). Can you inspect it? As others have noted, if it's 3PH it'll be a problem for a home owner. If it's a 5HP it'll take some serious wiring, but certainly not impossible. Though there may seem to be a discrepancy with the front rail alignment to the table top, that may be a product of the picture. The rail, itself, looks straight. If it is bent, it is bent at the location of the fence and it is hard to imagine how the rail would become bent at that location. I would highly doubt that it's bent far enough to see in a picture. If you can see it, leave it. I would expect the jointer to go for about $600, as well. My bidding guesstimates are based on my online auction bidding and observations experience for similar tools. I wouldn't expect that shop to have updated tools and still have a 1950s vintage drill press. That drill press is much more recent than 1950. ?? Is it or not? You never know. The saw could have been replaced. It looks newer than '50s to me. Again, I'm not an expert. Those are nice tools. It takes a hell of a lot of abuse to damage those quality of tools. I suspect they run and run well. I would suspect they are in good shape. If there is some "damage", it is likely to be minor. Look for rust. It can be cleaned, but it'll reduce its value considerably, IMO. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
wrote in message ... On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 06:12:20 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote: I would expect the auction site listing to include whether or not the tools have single or 3 phase motors and some semblance of the working condition of the tools. As best I can tell, they are all single phase, but I can't be absolutely sure. If the auction site is well known, I would expect the bidding on the table saw to reach at least $600. $300 is wishful thinking. Maybe I'll be the only bidder that morning? : ) Maybe I can get them to throw in a box of blades? : ) Thank you for helping me with the numbers. I'll provide an update with the selling prices in case anyone is curious. Bill |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 22:13:34 -0400, "Bill" wrote:
wrote in message .. . On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 06:12:20 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote: I would expect the auction site listing to include whether or not the tools have single or 3 phase motors and some semblance of the working condition of the tools. As best I can tell, they are all single phase, but I can't be absolutely sure. If the auction site is well known, I would expect the bidding on the table saw to reach at least $600. $300 is wishful thinking. Maybe I'll be the only bidder that morning? : ) Maybe I can get them to throw in a box of blades? : ) Thank you for helping me with the numbers. I'll provide an update with the selling prices in case anyone is curious. Sure. Win or lose. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
Bill wrote:
.... It's not running on phase-3 power, is it? I'd agree w/ other poster that info ought to be available but this is obviously a home shop and the likelihood of there being 3-phase is quite low. While again it's not possible to be absolutely certain, I'd say the likelihood of those having come from anywhere except purchased new by the owner is minimal at the highest. 3-phase stuff generally will be found in industrial auctions where the gear came from production shop facilities where 3-phase is readily available, not from estate sales. There may be the one-off fella' you'll find who did buy old industrial gear and add a converter or modify it, but it's not the norm by any stretch. But, you'll certainly want to know definitively _before_ bidding altho the prices you can expect to see will be significantly less for 3-phase gear unless there's a pro in the audience... But, of course, then you have to factor in what the converter's going to run... -- |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On 06/04/2010 10:55 PM, Bill wrote:
I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). Any guiding thoughts welcome! Thanks! Bill The jointer is the Delta 8" Professional model. It's basically this one: http://www.mikestools.com/37-380-del...l-jointer.aspx It's a pretty decent machine. Yes, it will have a 4" dust collection port, but of all the machines in a shop, jointers make probably the least amount of dust. I have that same model in the 6" width, and I got by for years by removing the dust port and simply placing a little trash can underneath the dust chute (which angles downwards away from the cutting area) and 90% of the shavings just fall right into it. -- What percentage of the driving populace do you suppose actually understands the rules of engagement at a four-way stop? To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
This is what I do to the home made port added to my 1949 4" Homecraft /
Delta jointer. The chips collect nice in a bag / garbage can. Mike in Ohio snip It's a pretty decent machine. Yes, it will have a 4" dust collection port, but of all the machines in a shop, jointers make probably the least amount of dust. I have that same model in the 6" width, and I got by for years by removing the dust port and simply placing a little trash can underneath the dust chute (which angles downwards away from the cutting area) and 90% of the shavings just fall right into it. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Fri, 4 Jun 2010 23:55:09 -0400, "Bill"
wrote: I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). Any guiding thoughts welcome! Thanks! Bill I think it was Swingman but not sure used a tow truck with a tilt deck to move their saw. Seemed to me to be a pretty elegant solution. Still not cheap but an easy move with no dismantling required. Mike M |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
On Jun 4, 11:55*pm, "Bill" wrote:
I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. *I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. *It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). *Any guiding thoughts welcome! Thanks! Bill That is a lot of saw. I agree with dpb that the odds of it being 3- phase are slim. Going by the graphic on the Bies... I'd say no more than 15 years old which is nothing. Look for nasty(deep pitted) rust. It isn't a deal-breaker but should drop the price. The possibility of that front box beam of the fence being bent is almost impossible to imagine. That jointer is a perfect candidate for a spiral segmented insert cutter head. Great tool. That DP?....meh... |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Robatoy" wrote in message ... On Jun 4, 11:55 pm, "Bill" wrote: I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ What can you tell from looking (I'm sure your eyes are more learned than mine..). The jointer, at least, appears to have a 4" DC port. It Does happen to say Unisaw on the TS (it it likely to have DC port?). Any guiding thoughts welcome! Thanks! Bill That is a lot of saw. I agree with dpb that the odds of it being 3- phase are slim. Going by the graphic on the Bies... I'd say no more than 15 years old which is nothing. Look for nasty(deep pitted) rust. It isn't a deal-breaker but should drop the price. The possibility of that front box beam of the fence being bent is almost impossible to imagine. That jointer is a perfect candidate for a spiral segmented insert cutter head. Great tool. Thank you all for all of the comments and suggestions. From reading his obituary, it is clear that the original owner was really into his stuff, having a metal shop and a wood shop (and a car collection and an "old auto-parts related sign" collection, other memorabilia, etc...). He probably could have taught us a few good lessons. RIP. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Robatoy" wrote in message news:27da3acf-486b-43a6-a46f- That jointer is a perfect candidate for a spiral segmented insert cutter head. Great tool. http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/935 I thought you might enjoy this review (written by someone who made the substitution). Bill |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Bill" wrote in message ... I just found a TS (Unisaw) and a Jointer coming up for auction. I posted pdf pictures of them on my web site: http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/ I arranged a preview of the TS today at the auction site today. I could look past the repaired rust spots in the table, but the several deeper 1/4"-3/8" wide scrapes across the top of the table (caused by what I haven't a clue) left me feeling like I could do better. Someone pushing large pieces through the saw might not have their work affected, but I can already hear myself grumbling when my smaller work might get stuck in some of the those scrapes. I appreciate better now why "mirror finish" is a standard. The thing about estate auctions is that I get the impression I'm the 25+ person to have looked things over, and that most "interesting" things (like hand planes, for example), that weren't nailed down was already been picked up. There was still a "ton of" stuff. A whole drawer full (and I mean full!) of screwdrivers--hardly any sockets or wrenches. Few, if any, power hand tools or bits. Go figure. Bill |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
The thing about estate auctions is that I get the impression I'm the 25+ person to have looked things over, and that most "interesting" *things (like hand planes, for example), that weren't nailed down was already been picked up. *There was still a "ton of" stuff. Is this an auction or an estate garage sale? Your description, here, seems to indicate a garage sale type venue. Despite wide scrapes (?) in the table saw top, don't underestimate that saw. If the sale is, in fact, a garage sale, those scrapes are a bargaining advantage for you. A gouge, to me, is/may be different than a severe scrape, as for as affecting cutting results. What is the prospect of being able to reasonable repair those scrapes, for good reliable use, until you can better repair or replace the top? Your subsequent description still hasn't convinced me the saw is not worth $400, $500, $600. Sure, you can always do better, but when and at what greater cost (maybe)? At the same time, I don't doubt your ability to evaluate the tools, especially after an onsite inspection. The scrapes/gouges: Someone accidently gouged it with a router or "skilsaw" when using it as a work bench? If there is a burr(s) sticking up, file and/or sand it down, maybe? Sonny |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Sonny" wrote in message ... I'll precede my comments with -- Is this an auction or an estate garage sale? Your description, here, seems to indicate a garage sale type venue. --It's an auction held by a company, but will be held at the site of the shop. Upon my request, they let me view the TS early. If they are wise they should remove everything from the shop before the auction starts and move it out to the yard/driveway. Your subsequent description still hasn't convinced me the saw is not worth $400, $500, $600. Sure, you can always do better, but when and at what greater cost (maybe)? --I do not doubt that the saw is worth $400-500. My plan was to buy the Grizzly G0690 (~$1200), so I'm not getting sticker shock. If you happen to have read another thread I started, then you may know have been arranging the details of the 240v wiring now. I think that your assessment that someone might have gouged it with a skilsaw is right on. In fact. they (more than) scratched it up completely--probably using it as a workbench as you mentioned. BTW, in view of the confined work area of this shop, that makes the most sense. You are insightful, Sonny! Anyway, the tabletop is unsightful. Having a new tabletop on the saw would change my outlook on it. I still have time to look into that possibility. I do not anticipate that this option is viable but I'm considering it now. At the same time, I don't doubt your ability to evaluate the tools, especially after an onsite inspection. --Don't give me too much credit, I'm a relative newbe buying my first and, most-likely, last TS. I removed the throat plate insert to see what kind of splitter, if any, might be present. There was piece of plastic perhaps 1" by 2", with a large vee on the end in there. The saw is a Delta Unisaw Platinum Edition. Can anyone describe how that mechanism "works"? This saw had a "dust bag" connected at the bottom (I presume a DC attached there may not be quite as effective as on some more modern saws). --So for another $600 (twice the price), I could get a saw with a riving knife, having a top with a mirrror finish, probably better dust collection, simpler delivery to my house, and a warrantee. The Delta saw did sound great (I haven't heard a Grizzly). The Delta TS did not appear to have a fine adjustment mechanism on it's Beisemeyer fence (surely it's an older model ~15 years). --Your post was helpful. As always, thank you for helping me think!! Bill |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Sonny" wrote in message ... What is the prospect of being able to reasonable repair those scrapes, for good reliable use, until you can better repair or replace the top? I checked on the replacement cost of the top--$639.95 (S&H, extra). If this was a contest my guess would have been Really close. That's why I think I have to pass. But I may go watch the auction just in case... Bill |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
I didn't realize a new top was so expensive. Mike's Tools lists for
$579.... plus whatever S&H to your area. Consider this option, maybe: Since you'll go watch the bidding and even with a defected top, set a limit of (say) $200, bid up to that amount and no more. Don't respond to (accept) the auctioneer's opening asking amount, especially if it's unreasonable high. If someone does accept the opening asking amount, then just play it by ear. That initial bidder is most likely an impulse buyer. By not responding to the auctioneer's opening asking amount, he'll be forced to lower the starting asking amount. If no bidders respond immediately to the auctioneer's initial asking, a bidder may announce (offer) his own starting bid, usually much lower than the auctioneer's initial asking. You don't have to accept the auctioneer's initial asking amount. He simply wants to start as high as he can. The idea is for the smart bidder to control the bidding, not the auctioneer. Don't exceed your spending limit. Don't get excited and become an impulse buyer. Prior to the saw bidding, observe bidding on other items. This will give a idea of what kind of crowd is bidding, i.e., knowledgeable bidders or impulse buyers, and how much money they are willing to spend (is their spending/bidding reasonable to the value of items or are they spending too much for items). Take note of a bidder who flashes his money or talks money, prior to bidding... don't get into a bidding war with this type of impulse buyer/braggart. Again, set your spending limit and don't exceed that limit. Sonny Sonny |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Sonny" wrote in message ... I didn't realize a new top was so expensive. Mike's Tools lists for $579.... plus whatever S&H to your area. Consider this option, maybe: Since you'll go watch the bidding and even with a defected top, set a limit of (say) $200, bid up to that amount and no more. Don't respond to (accept) the auctioneer's opening asking amount, especially if it's unreasonable high. Thank you. Your suggestion is darn close to what I had in mind. I confess that I'm not the best auction bidder. Sometimes I forget and feel like I'm in some sort of competition--which it is, but of course you know that the goal is not to win the competition at any cost! I've won a few I should have let go of... You proffered good advice! Bill |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Considering Used Tools
"Bill" wrote in
: I arranged a preview of the TS today at the auction site today. I could look past the repaired rust spots in the table, but the several deeper 1/4"-3/8" wide scrapes across the top of the table (caused by what I haven't a clue) left me feeling like I could do better. Someone pushing large pieces through the saw might not have their work affected, but I can already hear myself grumbling when my smaller work might get stuck in some of the those scrapes. I appreciate better now why "mirror finish" is a standard. *snip* Bill If the scratches aren't very deep, perhaps you could have a local company mill the top. That would restore your flat top, at the risk of a couple pounds of iron. I've got no idea how much it would cost, it may be only marginally cheaper than replacing it. Puckdropper -- Never teach your apprentice everything you know. |
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