SWMBO saw some bedroom furniture she fell in love with. It was made by
an Amish furniture maker. Simple design and made entirely of solid
cherry. I decided to start with the two nightstands. I have formulated
my plans and gathered the materials. I would like to join the case and
FF w sliding dovetails. The maker of the piece I am loosely following
used dowels and it looked quite nice. They also attached the top with
dowels as well. The nightstand is 32"s tall. Is that too long to
expect the joint to go togeather well. I know I could use biscuits or
pocket screws but somehow that does not feel right for this project. I
am strictly a hobbyist and have no deadlines to meet as far as time
goes. I try to learn something new with each project I build and I
have never used sliding dovetails. If it is not a smart thing to do in
this case I am open to suggestions and always willing to learn
something new. I really like to use joinery that does not require
screws. No reason other than it is what I prefer. Any suggestions
woule be appreciated.
Alaska Bob

I have built night stands (posted some Pics on ABPW a few days ago) and I
never would have thought of attaching the FF to the case with sliding
dovetails. I have used sliding dovetails on some small boxes and drawers,
none were over 11" long.

If it was me, I would use biscuits and glue.

--
Al Reid

"Bob Boswood" wrote in message
om...
SWMBO saw some bedroom furniture she fell in love with. It was made by
an Amish furniture maker. Simple design and made entirely of solid
cherry. I decided to start with the two nightstands. I have formulated
my plans and gathered the materials. I would like to join the case and
FF w sliding dovetails. The maker of the piece I am loosely following
used dowels and it looked quite nice. They also attached the top with
dowels as well. The nightstand is 32"s tall. Is that too long to
expect the joint to go togeather well. I know I could use biscuits or
pocket screws but somehow that does not feel right for this project. I
am strictly a hobbyist and have no deadlines to meet as far as time
goes. I try to learn something new with each project I build and I
have never used sliding dovetails. If it is not a smart thing to do in
this case I am open to suggestions and always willing to learn
something new. I really like to use joinery that does not require
screws. No reason other than it is what I prefer. Any suggestions
woule be appreciated.
Alaska Bob

Bob,

Based on what I think you want to do, it sounds like you want to make the
tail in the backside of the face-frame and have it slide onto the edge (pin)
of the case side... is that correct?

Both the pins and tails would then be along the long-grain axis - not good
for dovetails. Now granted, some will say there is no pulling force here
but as that wood moves over the years, it could possibly crack along the
grain. Typically, dovetails are made across the grain to achieve the most
strength.

Bob S.


"Bob Boswood" wrote in message
om...
SWMBO saw some bedroom furniture she fell in love with. It was made by
an Amish furniture maker. Simple design and made entirely of solid
cherry. I decided to start with the two nightstands. I have formulated
my plans and gathered the materials. I would like to join the case and
FF w sliding dovetails. The maker of the piece I am loosely following
used dowels and it looked quite nice. They also attached the top with
dowels as well. The nightstand is 32"s tall. Is that too long to
expect the joint to go togeather well. I know I could use biscuits or
pocket screws but somehow that does not feel right for this project. I
am strictly a hobbyist and have no deadlines to meet as far as time
goes. I try to learn something new with each project I build and I
have never used sliding dovetails. If it is not a smart thing to do in
this case I am open to suggestions and always willing to learn
something new. I really like to use joinery that does not require
screws. No reason other than it is what I prefer. Any suggestions
woule be appreciated.
Alaska Bob

"Bob Boswood" wrote in message
dowels as well. The nightstand is 32"s tall. Is that too long to
expect the joint to go togeather well. I know I could use biscuits or
pocket screws but somehow that does not feel right for this project. I
am strictly a hobbyist and have no deadlines to meet as far as time
goes. I try to learn something new with each project I build and I
have never used sliding dovetails. If it is not a smart thing to do in
this case I am open to suggestions and always willing to learn
something new. I really like to use joinery that does not require
screws. No reason other than it is what I prefer. Any suggestions
woule be appreciated.

I would certainly not use sliding dovetails for this application.

On fine furniture, and depending upon the design, my first preference would
probably be dado/grooves in the back of the FF to fit the carcase, then glue
the FF to the carcase.

Because you should be gluing long grain to long grain joint, you could also
just use glue.

If you do use just glue, make your face frame about an 1/8" oversize so that
it overhangs all four sides by 1/16". Nail a couple of brads partway in on
the carcase edges where the FF will sit, clip off the brads so that they are
still proud of the surface ... they will keep the FF from slipping when you
apply the clamps ... then clamp. Use a router and flush trim bit to flush
the sides of your FF's with the case when everything is dry.

Another method would be a splines and glue. There is nothing wrong with
biscuits or dowels in the this application. They will make alignment easier,
and are nothing more than a variation on the theme.

Don't forget that Shaker's also simply nailed the FF to the carcass in some
instances.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/17/04

Swingman responds:

Another method would be a splines and glue. There is nothing wrong with
biscuits or dowels in the this application. They will make alignment easier,
and are nothing more than a variation on the theme.

Don't forget that Shaker's also simply nailed the FF to the carcass in some
instances.

You know, a use for those Miller dowel set-ups (stepped dowels) finally seems
to be coming to light! Contrasting wood should make a great looking layout in
some FF applications.

Charlie Self
"Laws are like sausages, it is better not to see them being made." Otto von
Bismarck

"Charlie Self" wrote in message

You know, a use for those Miller dowel set-ups (stepped dowels) finally
seems
to be coming to light! Contrasting wood should make a great looking layout
in
some FF applications.

That's a good idea ... and one that would certainly add a nice, decorative
touch.

Thanks!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/17/04

"Swingman" wrote in message ...

Because you should be gluing long grain to long grain joint, you could also
just use glue.

If you do use just glue, make your face frame about an 1/8" oversize so that
it overhangs all four sides by 1/16". Nail a couple of brads partway in on
the carcase edges where the FF will sit, clip off the brads so that they are
still proud of the surface ... they will keep the FF from slipping snipped by Mike

I'm about to undertake my first FF project and had planned on a simple
glue joint. I hadn't thought about the slipping that may occur during
clamping so I'm glad I read this thread. I think I'll go with dowels
of contrasting color to keep everything aligned and also serve as a
decorative element. Thanks for the ideas and pointing out potential
problems that can easily be overlooked by newbies.

Cheers,
Mike

A simple way is to put 3/4" x 3/4" cleats on the inside, nail or screw plus
glue.

Walt Conner


I'm about to undertake my first FF project and had planned on a simple
glue joint.

"Swingman" wrote in message ..
Thanks for the ideas as well as the advice on why not to use SD's. I
like the idea that the shakers were open to different methods as well.
I think maybe I will try the miller dowel system. That's another thing
I always try to do on each project, not only learn something new but
have an excuse to buy a new tool as well.
Alaska Bob

"Bob Boswood" wrote in message
om...
something new. I really like to use joinery that does not require
screws. No reason other than it is what I prefer. Any suggestions
would be appreciated.

I use a blind nailer bought from Lee Valley Tools. It's a miniature plane
that I tap with a hammer. It raises a shaving on the wood, you countersink a
screw or a nail and then glue the raised shaving back down in place. In
practice, I use nails exclusively and usually drill a slightly undersized
hole with the drill first (prevents splitting in hardwood) before hammering
in the nail. With practice, it's virtually invisible. I highly recommend it.

Here's the link.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...gory=1,41 182

"Walt Conner" wrote in message link.net...
A simple way is to put 3/4" x 3/4" cleats on the inside, nail or screw plus
glue.

Thanks Walt. That sounds like an easier approach for me to consider.

Cheers,
Mike


Walt Conner


I'm about to undertake my first FF project and had planned on a simple
glue joint.