Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks

In article , "SBH" wrote:
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Forrest Woodworker II in the TS and RAS. The chopsaw just has the stock blade
that came with it -- but then, the chopsaw never gets used for any fine
woodworking, just cutting 2x lumber to size.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "SBH" wrote:
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Forrest Woodworker II in the TS and RAS. The chopsaw just has the stock
blade
that came with it -- but then, the chopsaw never gets used for any fine
woodworking, just cutting 2x lumber to size.

Perhaps I should elaborate.

What type of blade? Ex: Crosscut blade, Thin Kerf Blade, Rip blade, etc.

Thanks

"SBH" wrote in message ...
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks
That would be, types of blades.

"SBH" wrote in message ...
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks

TS has a WWII for finish cuts, whether rips or crosses. If I have a lot of
either to do (especially ripping), I'll switch to a dedicated ripping blade.
Nothing fancy there, I think it's a freud.

don't own a ras.

Mitre saw. Currently has a rough carpentry blade on it, good for tubbafors,
chopping offcuts into kindling and little else. If I'm doing molding, I'll
put on a 60 tooth (it's a 12").

HTH's,

jc

On the TS I use the Freud 24 tooth thin kerf rip or 30 tooth glue-line
rip for most of my fine work. I use a Forrest Woodworker II 30 tooth
for ripping thick hardwood. I use an 80 tooth Freud for cross cutting
on the TS.

My biggest advice would be to say don't use a combo blade. Get a blade
for rippping and a blade for cross cut on the TS.


On Dec 31, 5:54*pm, "SBH" wrote:
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks

"SBH" wrote in message ...
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks


OK - I just gotta go for the low hanging fruit.

"The appropriate one?"

On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:54:05 -0500, "SBH" wrote:

Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks


TS: Forrest WW II (20 degree (?) hook, 40 tooth combo blade)
RAS: Forrest WW I (-5 degree hook, 60 tooth combo blade)
MS: Disston 20" backsaw with ~15 TPI with light set in a very old, very heavy Stanley miter box

Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Delta Unisaw (Great White): Leitz 10X40 AT&R blade.
Backup: 2 - Delta 10X 60 's

DeWalt 12" Mitersaw: DeWalt 12 X 40 and 12 X 60 blades

No RAS

SBH wrote:
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use
in each?

Thanks

TS - 24 tooth thin rip. Thin because I often cut tape for edging and I hate
to waste wood

RAS - 40 tooth ATB

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"SBH" wrote in message ...

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "SBH" wrote:
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Forrest Woodworker II in the TS and RAS. The chopsaw just has the stock
blade
that came with it -- but then, the chopsaw never gets used for any fine
woodworking, just cutting 2x lumber to size.

Perhaps I should elaborate.

What type of blade? Ex: Crosscut blade, Thin Kerf Blade, Rip blade, etc.

Thanks

Freud P410, Freud P410 and Freud P410.
Works for me.

Max

In article , "SBH" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "SBH" wrote:
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Forrest Woodworker II in the TS and RAS.

Correction: WWII in the TS, WWI in the RAS

The chopsaw just has the stock blade
that came with it -- but then, the chopsaw never gets used for any fine
woodworking, just cutting 2x lumber to size.

Perhaps I should elaborate.

What type of blade? Ex: Crosscut blade, Thin Kerf Blade, Rip blade, etc.

The Woodworker II is a combination blade, WWI is a crosscut. And of course the
blade in the chop saw is a crosscut.

Thin-kerf blades are not needed except on underpowered saws.

Thanks

On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 21:44:04 -0500, SBH wrote:


Perhaps I should elaborate.

What type of blade? Ex: Crosscut blade, Thin Kerf Blade, Rip blade, etc.


In my tablesaw, a Freud Fusion combination blade. It's an ATB. It cuts
as smooth, if not smoother, than a Forrest. But I do wish it was an
ATBR, I don't like the V bottom on non-through cuts.

Never had or wanted a RAS. Chop saws are great for high volume
repetitive work, but as a hobbyist I can't justify one. If I can't do it
on a table saw, a bandsaw, or a scroll saw, it's time for the hand
tools :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

sharp ones


len

"SBH" wrote in message ...
Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks


I have use a bunch of blades over the last 30 years, I have setteled on
Forrest.

I only use a Forrest WW2 regular Kerf 40 thooth blade in my TS. I have 2 so
that when one is out being resharpened I don't have to do without.

This blade comes in thin kerf but I would not recomend it for best results.

This blade does perfect rips, cross cuts, miter cuts, bevel cuts and
compound angle cuts. Basically with this blade and a properly set up TS you
do not need another blade for cutting.

I have a Forrest DadoKing for dado's.

I would use a Forrest WW 1 for my RAS if I still hade it.

I would use a Forrest ChopMaster for a miter saw.

On Jan 1, 12:05 pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:

It's an ATB. But I do wish it was an ATBR,

Nice, detailed response. I read the posts as I was interested in blade
recommendations from serious folks.

I've all three saws mentioned and have quite a selection of 10" blades
(and a smaller selection of 12" blades for my, relatively new, Miter
Saw).

In the past, my criteria was the number of carbide teeth offered per
dollar(s) $pent. And, I suspect, I've owned as many combination blades
as not - but I honestly don't know.

The ATB / ATBR nomemclature caught my eye as a feature I know to
little about but know I need learn and would appreciate any lessons
shared here.

Funny thing, I think I starte with a "chop saw" as I called my Miter
Saw when I first got it. Then, I beleive I got the RAS and then my
first Table Saw.

I suspect I managed to employ each to do things no "respectable"
woodworker would use them for and "hand tools" were always a bit too
time consuming for my proects.

(from what I read here) Ripping blades seem best for the TS's
"default" blade and Cross Cut blades for the RAS and Miter Saws.

The Tooth Geometry mentioned here and elsewhere would appear to be
independant of the tool and dependant upon the material or task. Any
clarifications on these points would be appreiated.

On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:54:05 -0500, SBH wrote:

Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks

In my table saw I use a HF 50 tooth carbide blade. Cuts straight, smooth
on both rip and crosscut and is less than $20.00 I could get it
sharpened, but why?

Deb

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 15:55:55 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

The ATB / ATBR nomemclature caught my eye as a feature I know to little
about but know I need learn and would appreciate any lessons shared
here.

ATB is alternate top bevel. Each tooth is beveled to the left or right.
The following tooth is beveled in the other direction. As you can
imagine, it cuts a v-shaped groove.

ATBR is alternate top bevel with raker. After a set of ATB teeth,
usually 4, there is a tooth ground straight across which cleans out the V
and leaves a flat bottom.

Normally, a Forrest WWII is an ATB. But they have a "special grind"
version that is an ATBR. So far, Freud doesn't have one of those in
their fusion line, although they do in some of their older models.

On a slightly different topic, it's been mentioned that you don't need a
thin kerf blade unless your saw is underpowered. In the main that's
true. But when cutting something like segments for segmented bowl
turning it sure saves wood - one ring may easily require a hundred saw
cuts.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
om...
On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 15:55:55 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

The ATB / ATBR nomemclature caught my eye as a feature I know to little
about but know I need learn and would appreciate any lessons shared
here.

ATB is alternate top bevel. Each tooth is beveled to the left or right.
The following tooth is beveled in the other direction. As you can
imagine, it cuts a v-shaped groove.

ATBR is alternate top bevel with raker. After a set of ATB teeth,
usually 4, there is a tooth ground straight across which cleans out the V
and leaves a flat bottom.

Normally, a Forrest WWII is an ATB. But they have a "special grind"
version that is an ATBR. So far, Freud doesn't have one of those in
their fusion line, although they do in some of their older models.

On a slightly different topic, it's been mentioned that you don't need a
thin kerf blade unless your saw is underpowered. In the main that's
true. But when cutting something like segments for segmented bowl
turning it sure saves wood - one ring may easily require a hundred saw
cuts.

Thanks for the education on ATBR as well.

As for the thin kerf, is it also safe to assume they are used for TS bench
top/portable models?

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 18:10:05 -0600, the infamous "Dr. Deb"
scrawled the following:

On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:54:05 -0500, SBH wrote:

Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks

In my table saw I use a HF 50 tooth carbide blade. Cuts straight, smooth
on both rip and crosscut and is less than $20.00 I could get it
sharpened, but why?

Dina has a $5 HF 40T blade on her, and one of those is on my Ryobi
portable TS. HF's $5 50T blade is on my Delta 10" CMS. My old 7-1/4"
circular saw (Dad's aloonimum Craftsman) has a $2 HF 18T blade on it.
I wore out the Piranha blade after 4 years and HF had a sale on. I
spent 20 minutes filing the damned diamond arbor hole larger, so I
won't be purchasing any more 7-1/4" HF blades, TYVM.

I may go with a Freud Diablo on the CMS next time.

If I were cutting more hardwoods, I'd put real blades on my saurs. I
sometimes run old lumber through these saws, so cheap blades are cheap
insurance for the stray nail or piece of embedded gravel I find.

--
Sex is Evil, Evil is Sin, Sin is Forgiven.
Gee, ain't religion GREAT?

Hoosierpopi wrote:
The Tooth Geometry mentioned here and elsewhere would appear to be
independant of the tool and dependant upon the material or task. Any
clarifications on these points would be appreiated.

http://www.rockler.com/articles/disp...2&cookietest=1

More...
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=types...6c7832dbb01be6

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 15:55:55 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi wrote:


The Tooth Geometry mentioned here and elsewhere would appear to be
independant of the tool and dependant upon the material or task. Any
clarifications on these points would be appreiated.

I'd disagree here for a couple reasons.

ATBR (or rip blade) gives a flat bottom kerf. I sometimes make candle lanterns, and prefer the flat
bottom in the groove to hold the glass. Also makes a flatter bottom when nibbling out a tennon.

I don't own a MS, and have never used one, so cannot comment if the following applies to them or
not.. Using a blade with negative hook in the RAS makes a huge difference in how aggressive the RAS
is when cross cutting a board. In my younger days my first cut with a RAS scared the living ****
out of me. I thought that sucker was going to eat my right arm before I could get it under control.
I eventually got some training/advice, did a lot of reading and tried a negative hook blade. Made a
huge difference in safety. In the last year I acquired a Forrest WW-I (driveby - $60 new on
closeout at The Cutting Edge) for the RAS and have never regretted it.

If you must use a strong hook angle blade on a RAS, I suggest you pull the blade all the way out,
position the board against the fence, then push the blade into the board to make the cut. That
forces the board and cutter head toward the fence, rather than letting the RAS monster loose to try
to climb over the board and eat your right arm. BTDT, have the stained undies to prove it.

BTW, I use a Freud SD209 (??-too cool this morning to go look it up, but the cheap - $95ish - Freud
dado set) for dados. I bought it used, and have had it about 4 years. Love it. Nice flat bottom
groove. I liked it so much I bought one for my son last summer.

This has been a good thread so far.

Regards,
Roy

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 20:21:16 -0500, SBH wrote:

Thanks for the education on ATBR as well.

As for the thin kerf, is it also safe to assume they are used for TS
bench top/portable models?

On any saw, a thin kerf blade will require less power for a same speed
cut or, conversly, make the same cut faster with the same power. And, as
I mentioned, they do save wood. Priced any ebony lately?

They have two drawbacks. In sustained use, they heat up faster than a
thicker blade which increases the odds of warping. For most hobby
woodworkers that's not a problem.

The second problem, at least in my mind, is that sometimes it's nice to
have a consistent 1/8" kerf instead of something out to 3 decimal
places. But unless you have almost zero runout you won't get that
anyway, so it may be a moot point.

I've used thin kerf blades on a contractor saw for years. I had a rip, a
crosscut, and a combination - all Freud. I finally got old and lazy and
now I run the Fusion blade for everything. I've never owned a benchtop
saw.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Jan 2, 7:39*am, "dadiOH" wrote:

http://www.rockler.com/articles/disp...ry_id=72&cooki....
More...http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=types...&aqi=g10&oq=ty...

Thanks for these links!

Larry Blanchard | 2010-01-02 | 12:20:05 PM wrote:

On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 20:21:16 -0500, SBH wrote:

Thanks for the education on ATBR as well.

As for the thin kerf, is it also safe to assume they are used for
TS bench top/portable models?

On any saw, a thin kerf blade will require less power for a same
speed cut or, conversly, make the same cut faster with the same
power. And, as I mentioned, they do save wood. Priced any ebony
lately?

They have two drawbacks. In sustained use, they heat up faster than
a thicker blade which increases the odds of warping. For most hobby
woodworkers that's not a problem.

The second problem, at least in my mind, is that sometimes it's nice
to have a consistent 1/8" kerf instead of something out to 3 decimal
places. But unless you have almost zero runout you won't get that
anyway, so it may be a moot point.

I've used thin kerf blades on a contractor saw for years. I had a
rip, a crosscut, and a combination - all Freud. I finally got old
and lazy and now I run the Fusion blade for everything. I've never
owned a benchtop saw.

Third problem:
My contractor table saw has measurement guides on both sides of the
blade. If I put use a thin-kerf blade, measurements will be off by
about 1/32 inch--or not, depending on which side of the blade I put my
fence.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 00:21:26 +0000, SteveBell wrote:


I've used thin kerf blades on a contractor saw for years. I had a rip,
a crosscut, and a combination - all Freud. I finally got old and lazy
and now I run the Fusion blade for everything. I've never owned a
benchtop saw.

Third problem:
My contractor table saw has measurement guides on both sides of the
blade. If I put use a thin-kerf blade, measurements will be off by about
1/32 inch--or not, depending on which side of the blade I put my fence.

Agreed. But I use blade stiffeners on all my blades, so none of them
match the measures. As long as I know the offset, it's no big deal.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"SBH" wrote in :

Ok, you have a tablesaw, a RAS and a Mitersaw. What blades do you use in
each?

Thanks



Tablesaw: Combination blade (40T) (usually do rips, but often switch to
cross cuts)
RAS: Dado Stack or Cross cut
Mitersaw: Cross cut (80T)

I'm using Irwin Marathon blades on my TS3660 and Kobalt CMS, and really
need to pick up another cross cut blade for my TS.

Not interested in starting a new thread about this, but would a WWI or WWII
blade make that much difference cutting pine (SPF actually) vs other
blades?

Puckdropper