I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described. A generous layer of cotton is typical for a first
layer, against the seat base (board), then foam, then a layer of
"polyester" (there are several kinds of finish lining/padding). *Fire
retardent polyester fiberfill (a designated industry description) is
just as inexpensive as non-fire retardent fiberfill.

For when you redo your seats: For the small amount of padding you
seem to have, pay close attention to the front and back corners of the
seat base, your plywood! If the wood's corners are sharp 90�, the
wood may poke through the fiberfill and sometimes, in time, through
the fabric, at those points. When you redo the seats, at the point of
having the fabric over the corners (just prior to stapling your fabric
down), feel the corners to see if they feel too sharp (use your good
judgement). If they feel too sharp, cut the tip (1/8") off the
board's corners. This will dull those sharp "poking" corners, yet
maintain a good square contour. That 1/8" removed is not going to
affect any visible or functional difference. For seats with a bit
more padding, instead of cutting the corners, a touch more padding, at
those spots, can be used to soften sharp corners. The consideration
not to use a touch more padding on your corners is because your seats
fit inside a framing..... you want to avoid adding padding into that
fitted type of framing.

I assume everyone knows, but I'll add: Once a seat is fitted to a
particular chair frame, attach a number/symbol to the seat
corresponding to its particular chair/frame number/symbol.

Sonny

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:57:12 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described.

Our dining room chairs are all wood; no padding at all. I guess the
Amish that built them thought padding to be a luxury. ;-)

snip

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:05:33 -0600, krw wrote:

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:57:12 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described.

Our dining room chairs are all wood; no padding at all. I guess the
Amish that built them thought padding to be a luxury. ;-)

snip


Besides that, dining chairs with fabric are difficult to keep clean.
Not my style but you can always use those washable chair pads.

On Dec 23, 12:08*pm, Phisherman wrote:
On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:05:33 -0600, krw wrote:
On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:57:12 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described.

Our dining room chairs are all wood; no padding at all. *I guess the
Amish that built them thought padding to be a luxury. *;-)

snip

Besides that, dining chairs with fabric are difficult to keep clean.
Not my style but you can always use those washable chair pads.

They're cheap to replace, too. We'd thought about buying chair pads
but the chairs are pretty comfortable as they are and look very nice
without pads.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:05:33 -0600, krw wrote:

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:57:12 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described.

Our dining room chairs are all wood; no padding at all. I guess the
Amish that built them thought padding to be a luxury. ;-)

snip


Besides that, dining chairs with fabric are difficult to keep clean.
Not my style but you can always use those washable chair pads.

I make a distinction between kitchen chairs and dining chairs. Kitchen
chairs are usually a little more upright and less comfortable, hence no
padding or at best a tie on pad. As I have read, dining chairs are meant to
be sat in longer and are designed with a more relaxed angle and a padded
seat.

Of course, there are always exceptions but that's what I found in my
research. So, I opted for almost a 10 degree back angle and a padded seat.

Vic

What was meant was padding for upholstered chairs, since I was zeroing
in on the upholstery, not literally all dining or kitchen chairs. ...
But I took krw's comment as ribbing. Them Amish folk don't grow
cotton, I don't think. LOL.

Sonny

On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 13:54:34 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

What was meant was padding for upholstered chairs, since I was zeroing
in on the upholstery, not literally all dining or kitchen chairs. ...
But I took krw's comment as ribbing.

Who me?

Them Amish folk don't grow cotton, I don't think. LOL.

Not in Ohio, anyway.

"krw" wrote:

Not in Ohio, anyway.

Cheese and furniture, yes.

Cotton, not so much, more like none.

Lew

On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 11:32:45 -0800, "Vic Baron"
wrote:



"Phisherman" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 19:05:33 -0600, krw wrote:

On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:57:12 -0800 (PST), Sonny
wrote:

I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described.

Our dining room chairs are all wood; no padding at all. I guess the
Amish that built them thought padding to be a luxury. ;-)

snip


Besides that, dining chairs with fabric are difficult to keep clean.
Not my style but you can always use those washable chair pads.

I make a distinction between kitchen chairs and dining chairs. Kitchen
chairs are usually a little more upright and less comfortable, hence no
padding or at best a tie on pad. As I have read, dining chairs are meant to
be sat in longer and are designed with a more relaxed angle and a padded
seat.

Funny, our "kitchen" (breakfast, actually) chairs are padded and the
formal dining room chairs not. The dining room is nice stuff where we
want to show the wood (cherry) and the kitchen stiff is cheap stuff
we've had for years (will be replaced this spring with a Bistro-height
table and chairs). I haven't decided what wood I want yet.

Of course, there are always exceptions but that's what I found in my
research. So, I opted for almost a 10 degree back angle and a padded seat.

Our dining chairs are "Royal Mission" style so have a pretty drastic
curve in the back. They fit the back very well and quite comfortable.

"Sonny" wrote in message
...
I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described. A generous layer of cotton is typical for a first
layer, against the seat base (board), then foam, then a layer of
"polyester" (there are several kinds of finish lining/padding). *Fire
retardent polyester fiberfill (a designated industry description) is
just as inexpensive as non-fire retardent fiberfill.

For when you redo your seats: For the small amount of padding you
seem to have, pay close attention to the front and back corners of the
seat base, your plywood! If the wood's corners are sharp 90�, the
wood may poke through the fiberfill and sometimes, in time, through
the fabric, at those points. When you redo the seats, at the point of
having the fabric over the corners (just prior to stapling your fabric
down), feel the corners to see if they feel too sharp (use your good
judgement). If they feel too sharp, cut the tip (1/8") off the
board's corners. This will dull those sharp "poking" corners, yet
maintain a good square contour. That 1/8" removed is not going to
affect any visible or functional difference. For seats with a bit
more padding, instead of cutting the corners, a touch more padding, at
those spots, can be used to soften sharp corners. The consideration
not to use a touch more padding on your corners is because your seats
fit inside a framing..... you want to avoid adding padding into that
fitted type of framing.

I assume everyone knows, but I'll add: Once a seat is fitted to a
particular chair frame, attach a number/symbol to the seat
corresponding to its particular chair/frame number/symbol.

Sonny

Thanx, Sonny - I used sandpaper to slightly round the sharp edges about 1/8
so it should be fine. Also, I did number each seat.

Vic

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...


"Sonny" wrote in message
...
I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top,
than
you've described. A generous layer of cotton is typical for a
first
layer, against the seat base (board), then foam, then a layer
of
"polyester" (there are several kinds of finish lining/padding).
*Fire
retardent polyester fiberfill (a designated industry
description) is
just as inexpensive as non-fire retardent fiberfill.



I recovered 6 dining room chairs long ago. I didn't have the
fabric stretcher, but still got pretty decent, uniform, tension
all around. To get it, I placed the fabric face down on the
bench, adding the already padded seat on top, then adding 2 60#
weights to the wood. The weights compressed the padding very
well, and all I had to do was gently pull the fabric over the wood
base and hit it with the stapler. My weights were fairly large,
so to get a little elbow room for the stapler, I stood them off
slightly with a piece of 6X6 I used as a wheel chock on the truck.


--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
and articulate person who has absolutely no clue
concerning what they are talking about.
The person is typically a media commentator or politician.

"Nonny" wrote in message
...

"Vic Baron" wrote in message
...


"Sonny" wrote in message
...
I think most dining chairs have a tad more padding, on top, than
you've described. A generous layer of cotton is typical for a first
layer, against the seat base (board), then foam, then a layer of
"polyester" (there are several kinds of finish lining/padding). *Fire
retardent polyester fiberfill (a designated industry description) is
just as inexpensive as non-fire retardent fiberfill.



I recovered 6 dining room chairs long ago. I didn't have the fabric
stretcher, but still got pretty decent, uniform, tension all around. To
get it, I placed the fabric face down on the bench, adding the already
padded seat on top, then adding 2 60# weights to the wood. The weights
compressed the padding very well, and all I had to do was gently pull the
fabric over the wood base and hit it with the stapler. My weights were
fairly large, so to get a little elbow room for the stapler, I stood them
off slightly with a piece of 6X6 I used as a wheel chock on the truck.



that makes a lot of sense. I know I was applying uneven pressure each time I
pulled the fabric. A good properly placed weight would have made it much
easier.

Sometimes the obvious escapes us.

Vic