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#1
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I'm going to have a few trees taken down in my yard (Seattle, Washington
area) and wonder if a couple might be good for a workbench top. One is a broadleaf maple with the log diameter around 12 inches or so, and another is a fruitless cherry, about the same size logs. Both are leaning some (hence their planned demise) and I suspect they will contain a fair amount of reaction wood. Thus, I don't expect I could mill out thickish boards and not have them move and check significanlty with humidity changes, but how about if I were to cut fairly thin strips (~1/2" x 3") and laminate a bench top? I did this with my current bench, which is made of recycled oak flooring, but I don't like the open pore surface of the oak, and the top is only 1-3/4" thick, and I'd like a full 3" thick top. Is either the maple or the cherry going to be hard enough for general woodworking use? Is a top made of laminated thin strips going to be fairly stable? I would guess that it would be, because plywood is stable, but am I wrong? Would one be better than the other? Or should I just try turning bowls out of the wood? I've heard that reaction wood from maple can have a lot of curly or quilted grain. -- John Snow "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here" |
#2
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Pine or fir is hard enough for a workbench top. Maybe some woods aren't as
pretty as others but it is a work bench.. After stickering the strips for six months to a year they will probably be stable enough. There are no points of comparison between plywood and what you are proposing. The main reason plywood is stable is because each layer of veneer's grain runs at 90 degrees to the ones over and/or under it. Any movment of the veneers is resisted by the opposing layers of veneer.. If your workbench top does prove to be stable, which it should be if you dry the strips properly, it will be because laminating results in most of the wood movment across the thickness of the glue up rather then across the width as it would be for a flat sawn edge glued panel. Good luck -- Mike G. Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net "Hitch" wrote in message . .. I'm going to have a few trees taken down in my yard (Seattle, Washington area) and wonder if a couple might be good for a workbench top. One is a broadleaf maple with the log diameter around 12 inches or so, and another is a fruitless cherry, about the same size logs. Both are leaning some (hence their planned demise) and I suspect they will contain a fair amount of reaction wood. Thus, I don't expect I could mill out thickish boards and not have them move and check significanlty with humidity changes, but how about if I were to cut fairly thin strips (~1/2" x 3") and laminate a bench top? I did this with my current bench, which is made of recycled oak flooring, but I don't like the open pore surface of the oak, and the top is only 1-3/4" thick, and I'd like a full 3" thick top. Is either the maple or the cherry going to be hard enough for general woodworking use? Is a top made of laminated thin strips going to be fairly stable? I would guess that it would be, because plywood is stable, but am I wrong? Would one be better than the other? Or should I just try turning bowls out of the wood? I've heard that reaction wood from maple can have a lot of curly or quilted grain. -- John Snow "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here" |
#3
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Turn salad bowls out of the cherry. I would try to get a whole set out of
them (one larger mixing bowl and 4+ serving bowls). Then make the mixing tongs (or fork & spoon set) too. Or you could even laminate alternating 1" planks (maple/cherry/maple/cherry etc) to build up your turning blanks. Then your bowls would have those cool layers. That would be impressive. codepath "Hitch" wrote in message . .. I'm going to have a few trees taken down in my yard (Seattle, Washington area) and wonder if a couple might be good for a workbench top. One is a broadleaf maple with the log diameter around 12 inches or so, and another is a fruitless cherry, about the same size logs. Both are leaning some (hence their planned demise) and I suspect they will contain a fair amount of reaction wood. Thus, I don't expect I could mill out thickish boards and not have them move and check significanlty with humidity changes, but how about if I were to cut fairly thin strips (~1/2" x 3") and laminate a bench top? I did this with my current bench, which is made of recycled oak flooring, but I don't like the open pore surface of the oak, and the top is only 1-3/4" thick, and I'd like a full 3" thick top. Is either the maple or the cherry going to be hard enough for general woodworking use? Is a top made of laminated thin strips going to be fairly stable? I would guess that it would be, because plywood is stable, but am I wrong? Would one be better than the other? Or should I just try turning bowls out of the wood? I've heard that reaction wood from maple can have a lot of curly or quilted grain. -- John Snow "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here" |
#4
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Really the best thing for you to do is just have me come over and get that
pasky wood away from there! heh heh Jim "codepath" wrote in message ... Turn salad bowls out of the cherry. I would try to get a whole set out of them (one larger mixing bowl and 4+ serving bowls). Then make the mixing tongs (or fork & spoon set) too. Or you could even laminate alternating 1" planks (maple/cherry/maple/cherry etc) to build up your turning blanks. Then your bowls would have those cool layers. That would be impressive. codepath "Hitch" wrote in message . .. I'm going to have a few trees taken down in my yard (Seattle, Washington area) and wonder if a couple might be good for a workbench top. One is a broadleaf maple with the log diameter around 12 inches or so, and another is a fruitless cherry, about the same size logs. Both are leaning some (hence their planned demise) and I suspect they will contain a fair amount of reaction wood. Thus, I don't expect I could mill out thickish boards and not have them move and check significanlty with humidity changes, but how about if I were to cut fairly thin strips (~1/2" x 3") and laminate a bench top? I did this with my current bench, which is made of recycled oak flooring, but I don't like the open pore surface of the oak, and the top is only 1-3/4" thick, and I'd like a full 3" thick top. Is either the maple or the cherry going to be hard enough for general woodworking use? Is a top made of laminated thin strips going to be fairly stable? I would guess that it would be, because plywood is stable, but am I wrong? Would one be better than the other? Or should I just try turning bowls out of the wood? I've heard that reaction wood from maple can have a lot of curly or quilted grain. -- John Snow "If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here" |
#5
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Hitch wrote:
of reaction wood. Thus, I don't expect I could mill out thickish boards and not have them move and check significanlty with humidity changes, but Or should I just try turning bowls out of the wood? I've heard that reaction wood from maple can have a lot of curly or quilted grain. If you try to make a workbench out of them, you'll be sorely disappointed. Likewise bowls. Those species are no good for bowls at all, and you're wasting your time. If you mail the logs to me, I'll dispose of them properly. ![]() Seriously... If it were me, I'd be reluctant to make a bench out of such lumber until it had been drying for a good year per inch, at least. Benches want to be pretty flat and stable, and a green bench, laminated or not, sounds like a bad plan to me. I'd probably just build a bench out of KD lumber if I wanted a bench anytime soon. OTOH, for turning just about anything goes. I'm personally short on turning stock, so there would be no room for doubt there. A couple trees that big would keep me turning everything I could imagine for a good long time, I'd expect, and I'd be like a kid in a candy store. -- Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/ |
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