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James D. Kountz
 
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Default Wood suitability for workbench top

Really the best thing for you to do is just have me come over and get that
pasky wood away from there! heh heh

Jim


"codepath" wrote in message
...
Turn salad bowls out of the cherry. I would try to get a whole set out of
them (one larger mixing bowl and 4+ serving bowls). Then make the mixing
tongs (or fork & spoon set) too.

Or you could even laminate alternating 1" planks

(maple/cherry/maple/cherry
etc) to build up your turning blanks. Then your bowls would have those

cool
layers. That would be impressive.


codepath




"Hitch" wrote in message
. ..
I'm going to have a few trees taken down in my yard (Seattle, Washington
area) and wonder if a couple might be good for a workbench top. One is

a
broadleaf maple with the log diameter around 12 inches or so, and

another
is a fruitless cherry, about the same size logs. Both are leaning some
(hence their planned demise) and I suspect they will contain a fair

amount
of reaction wood. Thus, I don't expect I could mill out thickish boards
and not have them move and check significanlty with humidity changes,

but
how about if I were to cut fairly thin strips (~1/2" x 3") and laminate

a
bench top? I did this with my current bench, which is made of recycled

oak
flooring, but I don't like the open pore surface of the oak, and the top

is
only 1-3/4" thick, and I'd like a full 3" thick top.

Is either the maple or the cherry going to be hard enough for general
woodworking use? Is a top made of laminated thin strips going to be

fairly
stable? I would guess that it would be, because plywood is stable, but

am
I wrong? Would one be better than the other?

Or should I just try turning bowls out of the wood? I've heard that
reaction wood from maple can have a lot of curly or quilted grain.

--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"