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  #1   Report Post  
Wegge
 
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Default Jointer knife sharpening

I have 3 sets of dull (not nicked) jointer knives that need sharpening
desperately. I can't decide if I should send them out somewhere for
sharpening or purchase a grinder such as the Makita 9820-2 Sharpener.

I live in the northern boondocks of Minnesota and there isn't a
sharpening service anywhere near me.

Has anyone had experience with the Makita Sharpener or can recommend a
place where I can send knives for sharpening.

Thanks

Wayne

  #2   Report Post  
Mike Coonrod
 
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Default Jointer knife sharpening

I don't know about northern mn, there is a place in st. paul that I take
my stuff. I don't think you can send stuff to them though.

In the past couple months in various woodworking rags they posted a
little jig to sharpen jointer knives. Basically it is a peice of wood
that has two angles cut in them so the knives are exposed flat. Then
you just sand over the top of them with a sanding block, 200, 400, 600,
800...you get the idea. Crude picture of it.....

|/----\|
--------



Wegge wrote:
I have 3 sets of dull (not nicked) jointer knives that need sharpening
desperately. I can't decide if I should send them out somewhere for
sharpening or purchase a grinder such as the Makita 9820-2 Sharpener.

I live in the northern boondocks of Minnesota and there isn't a
sharpening service anywhere near me.

Has anyone had experience with the Makita Sharpener or can recommend a
place where I can send knives for sharpening.

Thanks

Wayne


  #3   Report Post  
Bob S.
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer knife sharpening

Wayne,

I have the Makita sharpener, it will do a great job but its way overkill if
all you want to sharpen is jointer knives. But if you have some planer
blades that need sharpening, some good chisels and hand-plane blades and
turning tools - then it can be a good investment.

But for jointer blades alone I can think of several low cost ways to sharpen
them yourself. You can Use Scary Sharp (see below) along with the Veritas
(Lee Valley) jointer blade holder - which works great, or you can make a
shop-made holder for the blades.

Take a piece of ~6/4 hardwood about 3" wide or so and cut 3 slots in it to
hold the blades at the correct angle. This will work nicely if the jointer
blades are 1/8" thick or I should say, as thick as your tablesaw blade. If
they're less, shim with some masking tape.

A little trial and error to get the depth of the slots cut but it only has
to be deep enough for the blades to stick a bit proud of the surface of the
block of wood. Set your tablesaw blade at the same angle as the bevel on the
jointer blade an then set the height of the tablesaw blade so it's makes a
cut deep enough in the block of wood so that the bevel of the jointer blade
is about the thickness of your thumbnail above the block when the blade is
inserted in the block.

The distance between the slots is not critical but make it equidistance so
when using the block it does not rock. Using Scary Sharp methods (fine
sandpaper and a flat surface), place the 3 jointer blades in the block
(press fit them in) and then with the sharp edges down, slowly but firmly
work the blades back and forth over the sandpaper that is attached to a flat
surface. About every ten strokes, turn the block 180° so you sharpen the
blades evenly.

Depending on the fit of the blades in the slots you may have to shim them so
they fit tightly in the slots. You may also have to rig up a stop on each
end of the block to keep the blades from sliding out of the slots but I've
found that shimming the blade with masking tape or even Scotch tape is
enough to hold the blades in. You want a press fit. After they're
sharpened, you'll need a small screwdriver or something to lift the edge of
the blades out of the slots.

You can get real fancy making a jig for doing this to insure the blades are
exactly the same width side to side but in the end, as long as the edge is
flat the length of the blade is what matters. When you put the blades back
in the jointer, any differences in blade width will be adjusted out at that
time.

But....if you're hell bent on spending some money, the Makita was highly
rated at the time I got mine.

Some links for reference:

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM

Veritas jointer blade holder
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...urrency=2&SID=

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/product.asp?3=1460


Bob S.



"Wegge" wrote in message
...
I have 3 sets of dull (not nicked) jointer knives that need sharpening
desperately. I can't decide if I should send them out somewhere for
sharpening or purchase a grinder such as the Makita 9820-2 Sharpener.

I live in the northern boondocks of Minnesota and there isn't a
sharpening service anywhere near me.

Has anyone had experience with the Makita Sharpener or can recommend a
place where I can send knives for sharpening.

Thanks

Wayne



  #4   Report Post  
Wegge
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer knife sharpening

Thanks guys, I will explore some of your suggestions

Bob S. wrote:
Wayne,

I have the Makita sharpener, it will do a great job but its way overkill if
all you want to sharpen is jointer knives. But if you have some planer
blades that need sharpening, some good chisels and hand-plane blades and
turning tools - then it can be a good investment.

But for jointer blades alone I can think of several low cost ways to sharpen
them yourself. You can Use Scary Sharp (see below) along with the Veritas
(Lee Valley) jointer blade holder - which works great, or you can make a
shop-made holder for the blades.

Take a piece of ~6/4 hardwood about 3" wide or so and cut 3 slots in it to
hold the blades at the correct angle. This will work nicely if the jointer
blades are 1/8" thick or I should say, as thick as your tablesaw blade. If
they're less, shim with some masking tape.

A little trial and error to get the depth of the slots cut but it only has
to be deep enough for the blades to stick a bit proud of the surface of the
block of wood. Set your tablesaw blade at the same angle as the bevel on the
jointer blade an then set the height of the tablesaw blade so it's makes a
cut deep enough in the block of wood so that the bevel of the jointer blade
is about the thickness of your thumbnail above the block when the blade is
inserted in the block.

The distance between the slots is not critical but make it equidistance so
when using the block it does not rock. Using Scary Sharp methods (fine
sandpaper and a flat surface), place the 3 jointer blades in the block
(press fit them in) and then with the sharp edges down, slowly but firmly
work the blades back and forth over the sandpaper that is attached to a flat
surface. About every ten strokes, turn the block 180° so you sharpen the
blades evenly.

Depending on the fit of the blades in the slots you may have to shim them so
they fit tightly in the slots. You may also have to rig up a stop on each
end of the block to keep the blades from sliding out of the slots but I've
found that shimming the blade with masking tape or even Scotch tape is
enough to hold the blades in. You want a press fit. After they're
sharpened, you'll need a small screwdriver or something to lift the edge of
the blades out of the slots.

You can get real fancy making a jig for doing this to insure the blades are
exactly the same width side to side but in the end, as long as the edge is
flat the length of the blade is what matters. When you put the blades back
in the jointer, any differences in blade width will be adjusted out at that
time.

But....if you're hell bent on spending some money, the Makita was highly
rated at the time I got mine.

Some links for reference:

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM

Veritas jointer blade holder
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...urrency=2&SID=

http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/product.asp?3=1460


Bob S.



"Wegge" wrote in message
...

I have 3 sets of dull (not nicked) jointer knives that need sharpening
desperately. I can't decide if I should send them out somewhere for
sharpening or purchase a grinder such as the Makita 9820-2 Sharpener.

I live in the northern boondocks of Minnesota and there isn't a
sharpening service anywhere near me.

Has anyone had experience with the Makita Sharpener or can recommend a
place where I can send knives for sharpening.

Thanks

Wayne





  #5   Report Post  
Bernard Randall
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer knife sharpening

I was bought a Tormek a couple of years ago, I had always resisted cause I
thought I could get good edges with my waterstones. What a difference and
fast. If you do a lot of work its a good buy, the accessories are expensive
though.

Bernard R

"Wegge" wrote in message
...
I have 3 sets of dull (not nicked) jointer knives that need sharpening
desperately. I can't decide if I should send them out somewhere for
sharpening or purchase a grinder such as the Makita 9820-2 Sharpener.

I live in the northern boondocks of Minnesota and there isn't a
sharpening service anywhere near me.

Has anyone had experience with the Makita Sharpener or can recommend a
place where I can send knives for sharpening.

Thanks

Wayne





  #6   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default Jointer knife sharpening

Beautiful tool, but, as noted, pricey. I do my planer knives too, and they
require more frequent sharpening. Was a pain (boondocks of northern
Michigan) to send them out, and the locals butchered them for $0.30 an inch.
Bit the bullet, and now I end up doing the school's, neighbors' and such.
Favor or wood swap, mostly.

Now, there is a variation I used a few times to repair the commercial job or
avoid it altogether before I got the Makita. It uses a holder, kerfed on
the proper angle to make the bevel parallel to the table, and a
hollow-bottomed cone stone chucked in your drillpress. It was published, at
the least, in Fine Woodworking, and worked perfectly. Wedged the blades
into the slot with paper on one side, touched the top of the highest spot
with the cone, then locked it in height. After the first pass, with the
cone on lowest speed, I put a piece of paper under the jig, taking off
another paper thickness. Went through the blades, usually no more than two
thicknesses of paper, cutting all at the proper length, then quick honed the
wire edge.

Worth a try, and gives good, predictable results.

"Wegge" wrote in message
...
I have 3 sets of dull (not nicked) jointer knives that need sharpening
desperately. I can't decide if I should send them out somewhere for
sharpening or purchase a grinder such as the Makita 9820-2 Sharpener.

I live in the northern boondocks of Minnesota and there isn't a
sharpening service anywhere near me.

Has anyone had experience with the Makita Sharpener or can recommend a
place where I can send knives for sharpening.

Thanks

Wayne



  #7   Report Post  
Steve Nekias
 
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Default Jointer knife sharpening

I had a significant nick in both jointer knives, and I was in the
middle of a project and on a Sunday--couldn't get anything sharpened.

I use the "Scary Sharp" system of sandpaper sharpening with a veritas
jig, but the jig wouldn't fit the jointer knives.

I was able to orient the beveled edge of the knife on the glass by
rocking it until I was sure it was the right angle, then I could
maintain the sharpening angle by hand. It took me about an hour
working through the grit sequence, but I was able to restore a perfect
edge.

Of course a jig would give you more security and be "fool-proof."

Mr. Fixit eh.
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