Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Kerosene, lamp oil, mineral spirits, WD-40. After one of them use simple
green if you must. Be sure to protect the castings with something though.
Wax, Boeshield, Top Cote.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

Rgr, tks. Already have a can of Top Cote for use
when the goop comes off.
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
om...

"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Kerosene, lamp oil, mineral spirits, WD-40. After one of them use simple
green if you must. Be sure to protect the castings with something though.
Wax, Boeshield, Top Cote.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

I like VM&P Naphtha. Can generally be picked up at any hardware store.

Darrell


"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Kerosene is what was recommended by Jet. It won't damage the paint, but
cuts the grease. I used this when I received my jointer and it worked very
well. After you get the table cleaned off, several coats of Carnauba wax
(you can get it in any auto parts store) to keep the metal surfaces from
rusting.
"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Joseph Smith wrote:
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.


I use a can of brake cleaner from any auto parts store. Amazing stuff, leaves
metal absolutely dry. The cleaning only takes a minute or so.

Hey, I use brake cleaner for all sorts of things around the shop. I clean guns
with it: I used to have to scrub barrels for quite a while to get them as clean
as a few seconds worth of brake cleaner will do. Plus getting the burnt powder
off stainless parts is super quick now. Great stuff.

You just have to wipe down the metal afterwards to protect it from the elements.
In the case of a gun, use oil. In the case of a woodworking tool, use paste wax
or Top Cote. Easy.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Start with a scraper or razor blade before you use any solvent, You can get
90% of it off.
Saves solvent and rags.

-jack

"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Mineral spirits/WS40 and tons of paper towels

John


On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 02:16:12 GMT, "Joseph Smith"
wrote:

Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Beware of most automotive paste waxes, they usually contain silicone
and are NOT a good choice for use on any surface that will contact the
wood you are working on. Can cause finishing problems (fisheye
defects)

Carnuaba is good, silicone is bad. You can buy PURE carnuaba was
flakes from Highland hardware and elsewhere, and I have used Johnson's
paste wax and added about 25% extra carnuaba for use on my cast iron
table tops

John

On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 07:53:45 GMT, "Woodworker"
wrote:

Kerosene is what was recommended by Jet. It won't damage the paint, but
cuts the grease. I used this when I received my jointer and it worked very
well. After you get the table cleaned off, several coats of Carnauba wax
(you can get it in any auto parts store) to keep the metal surfaces from
rusting.
"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

you should read the can of brake cleaner. i think it requires a good fume
respirator, along with lots of skin protection. it's pretty nasty stuff.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
.com...
Joseph Smith wrote:
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.


I use a can of brake cleaner from any auto parts store. Amazing stuff,
leaves
metal absolutely dry. The cleaning only takes a minute or so.

Hey, I use brake cleaner for all sorts of things around the shop. I clean
guns
with it: I used to have to scrub barrels for quite a while to get them as
clean
as a few seconds worth of brake cleaner will do. Plus getting the burnt
powder
off stainless parts is super quick now. Great stuff.

You just have to wipe down the metal afterwards to protect it from the
elements.
In the case of a gun, use oil. In the case of a woodworking tool, use
paste wax
or Top Cote. Easy.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Charles Spitzer wrote:

you should read the can of brake cleaner. i think it requires a good fume
respirator, along with lots of skin protection. it's pretty nasty stuff.

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
r.com...


Joseph Smith wrote:


Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.


I use a can of brake cleaner from any auto parts store. Amazing stuff,


leaves


metal absolutely dry. The cleaning only takes a minute or so.

Hey, I use brake cleaner for all sorts of things around the shop. I clean


guns


with it: I used to have to scrub barrels for quite a while to get them as


clean


as a few seconds worth of brake cleaner will do. Plus getting the burnt


powder


off stainless parts is super quick now. Great stuff.

You just have to wipe down the metal afterwards to protect it from the


elements.


In the case of a gun, use oil. In the case of a woodworking tool, use


paste wax


or Top Cote. Easy.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com







It does burn your eyes some while using. If you get too close. To go
one stronger, use carb clean when necessary. You really need the gloves
for that stuff. Unless you like dry cracked hands that are numb!

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:
you should read the can of brake cleaner. i think it requires a good fume
respirator, along with lots of skin protection. it's pretty nasty stuff.

It does burn your eyes some while using. If you get too close. To go
one stronger, use carb clean when necessary. You really need the gloves
for that stuff. Unless you like dry cracked hands that are numb!


Don't be such a wuss. I use the stuff bare handed and nothing's fallen off yet.
I don't wear a mask either but then again I don't use that much and the garage
is very well ventilated. I wash my hands when I'm done.

I cleaned all the goop off my new mortiser in under two minutes with brake
cleaner and a couple of paper towels. It works faster than most other suggested
solutions.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN


http://www.mortimerschnerd.com

Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:


you should read the can of brake cleaner. i think it requires a good fume
respirator, along with lots of skin protection. it's pretty nasty stuff.



It does burn your eyes some while using. If you get too close. To go
one stronger, use carb clean when necessary. You really need the gloves
for that stuff. Unless you like dry cracked hands that are numb!




Don't be such a wuss. I use the stuff bare handed and nothing's fallen off yet.
I don't wear a mask either but then again I don't use that much and the garage
is very well ventilated. I wash my hands when I'm done.

I cleaned all the goop off my new mortiser in under two minutes with brake
cleaner and a couple of paper towels. It works faster than most other suggested
solutions.




I double dare you then. Go get some McKay's Carb Clean and get a
goooodly amount on your hands. Like your holding a small bearing and
spray, spray away! Now if you we're talking about Brakleen gettin' on
the hands, then I agree. In the course of my job, I can go through a
case every day or two. I just hate when it accidentally splashes in my
eye. Ow, the burn! But my hands are used to it! Oooh, oooh! Wear
latex surgical gloves and watch what it does to them! Especially the
carb clean!

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:


I double dare you then. Go get some McKay's Carb Clean and get a
goooodly amount on your hands. Like your holding a small bearing and
spray, spray away! Now if you we're talking about Brakleen gettin' on
the hands, then I agree. In the course of my job, I can go through a
case every day or two. I just hate when it accidentally splashes in my
eye. Ow, the burn! But my hands are used to it! Oooh, oooh! Wear
latex surgical gloves and watch what it does to them! Especially the
carb clean!

Or go for "real" carb cleaner, not the wossey spray stuff. It comes in a
5 gallon steel can and gives off "heat". Great stuff for removing flesh
from objects....

-Bruce



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

BruceR wrote:

Mark and Kim Smith wrote:


I double dare you then. Go get some McKay's Carb Clean and get a
goooodly amount on your hands. Like your holding a small bearing and
spray, spray away! Now if you we're talking about Brakleen gettin'
on the hands, then I agree. In the course of my job, I can go
through a case every day or two. I just hate when it accidentally
splashes in my eye. Ow, the burn! But my hands are used to it!
Oooh, oooh! Wear latex surgical gloves and watch what it does to
them! Especially the carb clean!


Or go for "real" carb cleaner, not the wossey spray stuff. It comes in
a 5 gallon steel can and gives off "heat". Great stuff for removing
flesh from objects....

-Bruce



-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----


Ah Yes! Makes old parts look new just by dipping them! I miss the
old days. The SCAQMD put an end to that around here. Now we just have
that aquious stuff. Yeech!!

I use denatured alcohol after I scrape with a razor.

--

http://users.adelphia.net/~kyhighland


"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

WD40 seems to do the trick. The real PITA was the cutterhead.
It seemed to be double-coated with the stuff. I put Simple Green
on it and had to let it soak in the get the goop off and cut my
&$%#^ finger in the process. Well, I know the knives are sharp!
"Joseph Smith" wrote in message
...
Just got my new Grizz 6 inch jointer and all the non-painted metal
surfaces are covered with the protective goop. What do you guys
out there use to clean this nasty stuff off with? I was thinking about
hitting it with Simple Green for starters.

Joey in Chesapeake

Charles Spitzer wrote:

you should read the can of brake cleaner. i think it requires a good fume
respirator, along with lots of skin protection. it's pretty nasty stuff.

The new enviro friendly stuff is a lot less noxious.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

I use a can of brake cleaner from any auto parts store. Amazing stuff,
leaves
metal absolutely dry. The cleaning only takes a minute or so.

Be careful. I used to use brake cleaner as a paint stripper.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN" wrote in message
.com...

I use a can of brake cleaner from any auto parts store. Amazing stuff,
leaves
metal absolutely dry. The cleaning only takes a minute or so.

I use brake cleaner often for cleaning also. I would not use it for cleaning
a new big dollar tool I just brought home! Some brake cleaners are very
nasty to some plastics, also not very good for some paint finishes too. I
speak from experiance!

For cleaning that new wood working tool the cheapest solvent around is
either kerosene or mineral spirits. Neither one will damage paint or plastic
on your new tools.
Greg

On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 10:59:43 -0600, John Crea
wrote:

Beware of most automotive paste waxes, they usually contain silicone


all of the silicone care products I can think of are creams, not paste
waxes. automotive paste waxes seem to be more or less the same thing
as furniture waxes but formulated a little harder, and silicone free.

read the label....