I am currently in the process of finishing the remaining doors for my little
(read-1year) kitchen project and have stumbled onto a question. For a corner
cabinet, I am looking to install two relatively small doors attached with a
butt joint at a 90 degree angle(or add an additional lazy susan/bi-fold type
hinge is movement is needed). I am looking to utilize a 170 degree hinge
where the pivot door will meet the face frame and I see that for the most
part of my search, I will have to mount the hinge to the inside wall of the
cabinet since I have yet to see a mounting plate that will allow attachment
to the face frame.

Now my question, Blum makes hinges for a full overlay (3/4" I would guess
since the carcass is made of that material), but the stiles of the face
frame are 2" and the rest of the doors have a 1" overlay. My question, if I
move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or possibly more due to
mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of the door to get the 1"
overlay will the hinge continue to operate as designed? It appears that I
will have to block out an additional 3/4" to mount the plate so the face
frame does not interfere with its operation I am not sure how much the cup
can be moved?

I am sure that someone else has come across this at some time, how did you
work around the limitations of these hinges?

SteveA

On Nov 2, 10:41*pm, "SteveA" wrote:
I am currently in the process of finishing the remaining doors for my little
(read-1year) kitchen project and have stumbled onto a question. For a corner
cabinet, I am looking to install two relatively small doors attached with a
butt joint at a 90 degree angle(or add an additional lazy susan/bi-fold type
hinge is movement is needed). I am looking to utilize a 170 degree hinge
where the pivot door will meet the face frame and I see that for the most
part of my search, I will have to mount the hinge to the inside wall of the
cabinet since I have yet to see a mounting plate that will allow attachment
to the face frame.

Now my question, Blum makes hinges for a full overlay (3/4" I would guess
since the carcass is made of that material), but the stiles of the face
frame are 2" and the rest of the doors have a 1" overlay. My question, if I
move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or possibly more due to
mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of the door to get the 1"
overlay will the hinge continue to operate as designed? It appears that I
will have to block out an additional 3/4" to mount the plate so the face
frame does not interfere with its operation I am not sure how much the cup
can be moved?

I am sure that someone else has come across this at some time, how did you
work around the limitations of these hinges?

SteveA

With 1" overlay, what hinges are you using on the other doors?

Blum compact 33 110, with 1" o/l


"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Nov 2, 10:41 pm, "SteveA" wrote:
I am currently in the process of finishing the remaining doors for my
little
(read-1year) kitchen project and have stumbled onto a question. For a
corner
cabinet, I am looking to install two relatively small doors attached with
a
butt joint at a 90 degree angle(or add an additional lazy susan/bi-fold
type
hinge is movement is needed). I am looking to utilize a 170 degree hinge
where the pivot door will meet the face frame and I see that for the most
part of my search, I will have to mount the hinge to the inside wall of
the
cabinet since I have yet to see a mounting plate that will allow
attachment
to the face frame.

Now my question, Blum makes hinges for a full overlay (3/4" I would guess
since the carcass is made of that material), but the stiles of the face
frame are 2" and the rest of the doors have a 1" overlay. My question, if
I
move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or possibly more due to
mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of the door to get the 1"
overlay will the hinge continue to operate as designed? It appears that I
will have to block out an additional 3/4" to mount the plate so the face
frame does not interfere with its operation I am not sure how much the cup
can be moved?

I am sure that someone else has come across this at some time, how did you
work around the limitations of these hinges?

SteveA

With 1" overlay, what hinges are you using on the other doors?

"SteveA" wrote in message
...
I am currently in the process of finishing the remaining doors for my
little (read-1year) kitchen project and have stumbled onto a question. For
a corner cabinet, I am looking to install two relatively small doors
attached with a butt joint at a 90 degree angle(or add an additional lazy
susan/bi-fold type hinge is movement is needed). I am looking to utilize a
170 degree hinge where the pivot door will meet the face frame and I see
that for the most part of my search, I will have to mount the hinge to the
inside wall of the cabinet since I have yet to see a mounting plate that
will allow attachment to the face frame.

Now my question, Blum makes hinges for a full overlay (3/4" I would guess
since the carcass is made of that material), but the stiles of the face
frame are 2" and the rest of the doors have a 1" overlay. My question, if
I move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or possibly more due to
mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of the door to get the 1"
overlay will the hinge continue to operate as designed? It appears that I
will have to block out an additional 3/4" to mount the plate so the face
frame does not interfere with its operation I am not sure how much the cup
can be moved?

I am sure that someone else has come across this at some time, how did you
work around the limitations of these hinges?

SteveA

I am assuming that then you mention Blum hinges you are talking about the
Euro style hinges with the 35mm hole in the door.

Typically the cup location is critical. Basically where the hinge mounts on
the door is important as to whether the hinge will function properly or not.
Because most of these style hinges also account for the spacing between the
back of the door and the front of the face frame the hole has to be drilled
so that the hinge will pivot the door where it is intended to pivot the
door. Basically if you change the location of the hole in relatioship to
the edge of the stile the door may not open at all, or close for that
matter.

You should stay with what the instructions indicate.

SteveA wrote:

My
question, if I move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or
possibly more due to mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of
the door to get the 1" overlay will the hinge continue to operate as
designed?

Off the cuff, and IME, you could be asking for trouble/extra work.

Depending upon the hinge type, the distance from the edge of the door to
the cup hole (usually distance "B") is a critical distance for most euro
type hinges. By moving this distance you may find unintended
consequences with clearance issues, including not having enough
clearance to mount lazy susan hardware or shelf slides.

Not saying that it won't work, just that you should probably dummy up
some doors and give it a try before drilling your cup holes in finished
doors.

One of the biggest mistake you can make when building cabinets is to not
decide upon your door hinges and drawer hardware FIRST. Failure to do so
will ALWAYS cause problems, even for the experienced cabinet maker. DAMHIKT!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Leon wrote:

Typically the cup location is critical.

You should stay with what the instructions indicate.

LOL ... similar posts, three minutes apart. One would think we'd "been
there done that", eh?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
SteveA wrote:

My question, if I move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or
possibly more due to mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of
the door to get the 1" overlay will the hinge continue to operate as
designed?

Off the cuff, and IME, you could be asking for trouble/extra work.

Depending upon the hinge type, the distance from the edge of the door to
the cup hole (usually distance "B") is a critical distance for most euro
type hinges. By moving this distance you may find unintended consequences
with clearance issues, including not having enough clearance to mount lazy
susan hardware or shelf slides.

Not saying that it won't work, just that you should probably dummy up some
doors and give it a try before drilling your cup holes in finished doors.

One of the biggest mistake you can make when building cabinets is to not
decide upon your door hinges and drawer hardware FIRST. Failure to do so
will ALWAYS cause problems, even for the experienced cabinet maker.
DAMHIKT!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I am planning to make up a couple of test pieces today, moving the cup in
off the door edge to get the overlay I need and see how the hinge reacts to
this change.If I could have found a 165-170 face frame hinge, I would not
have any problems at all, but alas no one seems to make them at least with a
1" overlay.

If all this experimentation does not work out, I have already told wife she
might end up with an open shelf cabinet, which she does not see to mind,
since she was the one restricting its design. It is a straight 90 degree top
corner cabinet with face frame one leg 12" =/- the other 10 1/2" +/-.

SteveA

On Nov 3, 8:06*am, "SteveA" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message

...





SteveA wrote:

My question, if I move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or
possibly more due to mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of
the door to get the 1" overlay will the hinge continue to operate as
designed?

Off the cuff, and IME, you could be asking for trouble/extra work.

Depending upon the hinge type, the distance from the edge of the door to
the cup hole (usually distance "B") is a critical distance for most euro
type hinges. By moving this distance you may find unintended consequences
with clearance issues, including not having enough clearance to mount lazy
susan hardware or shelf slides.

Not saying that it won't work, just that you should probably dummy up some
doors and give it a try before drilling your cup holes in finished doors.

One of the biggest mistake you can make when building cabinets is to not
decide upon your door hinges and drawer hardware FIRST. Failure to do so
will ALWAYS cause problems, even for the experienced cabinet maker.
DAMHIKT!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I am planning to make up a couple of test pieces today, moving the cup in
off the door edge to get the overlay I need and see how the hinge reacts to
this change.If I could have found a 165-170 face frame hinge, I would not
have any problems at all, but alas no one seems to make them at least with a
1" overlay.

If all this experimentation does not work out, I have already told wife she
might end up with an open shelf cabinet, which she does not see to mind,
since she was the one restricting its design. It is a straight 90 degree top
corner cabinet with face frame one leg 12" =/- the other 10 1/2" +/-.

SteveA

I have seen a piece of face-frame attached to the door and that face-
frame stile attached to a regular (170?) hinge.
I don't have anything in my catalogues that jumps out at me as a
solution, so Swingman's suggestion to prototype is a good one.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Nov 3, 8:06 am, "SteveA" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message

...





SteveA wrote:

My question, if I move the cup for the hinge an additional 1/2" (or
possibly more due to mounting location on the cabinet) from the edge of
the door to get the 1" overlay will the hinge continue to operate as
designed?

Off the cuff, and IME, you could be asking for trouble/extra work.

Depending upon the hinge type, the distance from the edge of the door to
the cup hole (usually distance "B") is a critical distance for most euro
type hinges. By moving this distance you may find unintended
consequences
with clearance issues, including not having enough clearance to mount
lazy
susan hardware or shelf slides.

Not saying that it won't work, just that you should probably dummy up
some
doors and give it a try before drilling your cup holes in finished
doors.

One of the biggest mistake you can make when building cabinets is to not
decide upon your door hinges and drawer hardware FIRST. Failure to do so
will ALWAYS cause problems, even for the experienced cabinet maker.
DAMHIKT!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I am planning to make up a couple of test pieces today, moving the cup in
off the door edge to get the overlay I need and see how the hinge reacts
to
this change.If I could have found a 165-170 face frame hinge, I would not
have any problems at all, but alas no one seems to make them at least with
a
1" overlay.

If all this experimentation does not work out, I have already told wife
she
might end up with an open shelf cabinet, which she does not see to mind,
since she was the one restricting its design. It is a straight 90 degree
top
corner cabinet with face frame one leg 12" =/- the other 10 1/2" +/-.

SteveA

I have seen a piece of face-frame attached to the door and that face-
frame stile attached to a regular (170?) hinge.
I don't have anything in my catalogues that jumps out at me as a
solution, so Swingman's suggestion to prototype is a good one.

I have been searching for several weeks now, also with no luck. Fortunately
I have plenty of scrap material to do a number of tests cuts (drills) I hope
I can come up with a combo that will work.

Thanx for the input

SteveA

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

Typically the cup location is critical.

You should stay with what the instructions indicate.

LOL ... similar posts, three minutes apart. One would think we'd "been
there done that", eh?

A time or 500.

SteveA wrote:

I am planning to make up a couple of test pieces today, moving the cup
in off the door edge to get the overlay I need and see how the hinge
reacts to this change.If I could have found a 165-170 face frame hinge,
I would not have any problems at all, but alas no one seems to make them
at least with a 1" overlay.

A dummy, hinge side, stile that you can experiment with should tell you
everything you need to know.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Nov 3, 9:58*am, Swingman wrote:
SteveA wrote:
I am planning to make up a couple of test pieces today, moving the cup
in off the door edge to get the overlay I need and see how the hinge
reacts to this change.If I could have found a 165-170 face frame hinge,
I would not have any problems at all, but alas no one seems to make them
at least with a 1" overlay.

A dummy, hinge side, stile that you can experiment with should tell you
everything you need to know.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

No shortage of dummies in this shop *smirk*

On Tue, 3 Nov 2009 08:50:54 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following:


"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

Typically the cup location is critical.

You should stay with what the instructions indicate.

LOL ... similar posts, three minutes apart. One would think we'd "been
there done that", eh?

A time or 500.

We all got the t-shirts, right?

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson