Hello all,

Well, it's time to finally buy a dovetail jig. I've narrowed it down
to the Leigh D4R and the Porter Cable 24" Omnijig model 77240. I need
the variable spacing and the 24" width.

I've searched the archives and read all that has been written so far.
It has been a while since this has been discussed and was hoping
someone has something new to add, some real hands on experience with
both jigs and can speak from experience. I keep waiting for one of
the woodworking mags to do a detailed comparison and am surprised that
they have not yet.

So, following are some questions I had. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry


Any comments on any of these issues/features? :

1. First, my overall impression of the two jigs: Both are
functionally the same. The Omnijig is built like a tank, but the
machining and manufacturing tolerances are less precise than the D4R.
I have read a few comments about the finger-template-bar being
seriously bowed and also about a height mismatch or step between the
finger template and the stabilizer bar causing the router to not sit
level. The D4R is more precisely made though perhaps a bit more
delicate. Any truth to these impressions?

2. The Omnijig bit depth gage and template positioning stops - Are
these really accurate enough so that, once dialed in, test cuts are
unnecessary. Or, are they almost close enough and therefore just a
gimmick?

3. Clamping systems: The Omnijig looks nice?

4. Dust collection ?

5. Available bits: Omnijig uses 1/2 shank bits, the D4R uses 8mm.
Does either system have more or fewer bits available (width, depth and
dovetail angle)?

6. How does the selection of available bits affect the look of the
finished dovetails?

7. Router stability?

8. Do either of the jigs have any great, must have features or any
annoying or deal-breaking features?

wrote in message
...
Hello all,

Well, it's time to finally buy a dovetail jig. I've narrowed it down
to the Leigh D4R and the Porter Cable 24" Omnijig model 77240. I need
the variable spacing and the 24" width.

I've searched the archives and read all that has been written so far.
It has been a while since this has been discussed and was hoping
someone has something new to add, some real hands on experience with
both jigs and can speak from experience. I keep waiting for one of
the woodworking mags to do a detailed comparison and am surprised that
they have not yet.

So, following are some questions I had. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry


Any comments on any of these issues/features? :

1. First, my overall impression of the two jigs: Both are
functionally the same. The Omnijig is built like a tank, but the
machining and manufacturing tolerances are less precise than the D4R.
I have read a few comments about the finger-template-bar being
seriously bowed and also about a height mismatch or step between the
finger template and the stabilizer bar causing the router to not sit
level. The D4R is more precisely made though perhaps a bit more
delicate. Any truth to these impressions?


I own a D4 and have for about 12 years. I have no complaints. I have heard
of less than happy Omnijig owners, bits being made incorrectly was the major
problem. Some have reported fingers slipping with the Leigh D4.



2. The Omnijig bit depth gage and template positioning stops - Are
these really accurate enough so that, once dialed in, test cuts are
unnecessary. Or, are they almost close enough and therefore just a
gimmick?

IMHO it is a gimmick, but that is only my opinion. I experience has shown
me that 2 "identical" sized DT bits will cut differently and will needed to
be adjusted differently. IMHO every bit has it's "sweet spot" to perform
the best cut expecially for "half blind DT's. Additionally every type of
wood and its hardness will require a slightly different bit depth setting.
The set up gauge with the Omni IMHO is a place to start from to achieve the
best cut.



3. Clamping systems: The Omnijig looks nice?

The Leigh works.


4. Dust collection ?

Leigh offers a router support/dust collection set up for $100.


5. Available bits: Omnijig uses 1/2 shank bits, the D4R uses 8mm.
Does either system have more or fewer bits available (width, depth and
dovetail angle)?

Leigh offers full sets of bits but I recomend that you buy what you need as
needed.



6. How does the selection of available bits affect the look of the
finished dovetails?

With the Leigh the bits differ in angle and the larger bits are, suited for
thicker stock.


7. Router stability?

Typical on the D4 probably better with the set up I mentioned above
concerning your DC question.


8. Do either of the jigs have any great, must have features or any
annoying or deal-breaking features?


The Leigh offers other templates for different type decorative joints and a
box joint/finger joint jig that is a no brainer and works very well.
The immediate reaction I have every time I see the Omni is that I think I am
looking at an air craft carrier, it looks like it would take up a lot of
real-estate in the shop.

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:41:02 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


6. How does the selection of available bits affect the look of the
finished dovetails?

With the Leigh the bits differ in angle and the larger bits are, suited for
thicker stock.

Only for half blinds. For through dovetails they are all 8 degrees.
The Akeda is the only jig that does different angles for through
dovetails.


-Kevin

On Sep 22, 4:57*pm, Kevin wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 08:41:02 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

6. How does the selection of available bits affect the look of the
finished dovetails?

With the Leigh the bits differ in angle and the larger bits are, suited for
thicker stock.

Only for half blinds. *For through dovetails they are all 8 degrees.
The Akeda is the only jig that does different angles for through
dovetails.

-Kevin

I agree that the Akeda has the nicest looking dovetail angles because
they move with the thickness of the wood. An 8 degree angle just does
not look right on a 1/2" piece of wood.

Add to it that the Akeda is much easier to use than any other jig on
the market and you have a winning combination.

I have only used the 12" omnijig, but here is my .02$ anyway

2. The Omnijig bit depth gage and template positioning stops - Are

not a gimmick, but no big deal. You can make test scraps that serve
the same purpose


3. Clamping systems: The Omnijig looks nice?

it work well

5. Available bits: Omnijig uses 1/2 shank bits, the D4R uses 8mm.
Does either system have more or fewer bits available (width, depth and
dovetail angle)?

The omnijig uses 7° bits. I've seen replacement bits that are
advertised at 8° . I have no clue if it will work within 1°, if the
bits are close enough anyway, etc. I assume that the 12 and 24 inch
jigs use the same bits. For through dovetails, the bit angle has to
match the template angle (omnijig) There doesn't seem to be a whole
lot of selection for the omnijig bits.

I assume that either jig should use scrap pieces under the template to
prevent it from bowing

enjoy,

shelly

wrote:

Hello all,

Well, it's time to finally buy a dovetail jig. I've narrowed it down
to the Leigh D4R and the Porter Cable 24" Omnijig model 77240. I need
the variable spacing and the 24" width.

I've searched the archives and read all that has been written so far.
It has been a while since this has been discussed and was hoping
someone has something new to add, some real hands on experience with
both jigs and can speak from experience. I keep waiting for one of
the woodworking mags to do a detailed comparison and am surprised that
they have not yet.

So, following are some questions I had. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry


Any comments on any of these issues/features? :

.... snip

If you've looked through the archives, you've read of my recent
investigation into trying to get gapless dovetails with my D4 (not a D4R)
and my decision to replace it with the Akeda jig. If you can get the
optional router support for the D4R, that may alleviate part of the
problems I was seeing.

If you're close to Tucson, I'll make you a deal on my D4. :-)
--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

Mark & Juanita wrote:

If you've looked through the archives, you've read of my recent
investigation into trying to get gapless dovetails with my D4 (not a D4R)
and my decision to replace it with the Akeda jig. If you can get the
optional router support for the D4R, that may alleviate part of the
problems I was seeing.

Recently did another batch of kitchen drawers with my 7 year old Leigh
D4 (half blind joints). Biggest problem in batch routing parts in a run
of 20 or so drawers with the jig is that some of the fingers move apart
very slightly, but noticeably, over time, with gaps showing up in the
joins part way through a run if you don't keep a close eye.

Only those fingers in a particular location see to be the culprits and
no amount of tightening solves the problem.

Replaced both with unused ones to no avail, so I'm assuming it is an
issue with the bar they slide on ... perhaps worn from use, or from over
tightening in the past?

As always, the final product is quite acceptable and a damn sight
quicker and better than if I did 20 drawers by hand, but it is
exasperating that absolute consistency in a large run of batch cut
drawer parts has always been somewhat unattainable using my particular
Leigh.

One or two, or a few drawers, no problems ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
Mark & Juanita wrote:

If you've looked through the archives, you've read of my recent
investigation into trying to get gapless dovetails with my D4 (not a D4R)
and my decision to replace it with the Akeda jig. If you can get the
optional router support for the D4R, that may alleviate part of the
problems I was seeing.

Recently did another batch of kitchen drawers with my 7 year old Leigh D4
(half blind joints). Biggest problem in batch routing parts in a run of 20
or so drawers with the jig is that some of the fingers move apart very
slightly, but noticeably, over time, with gaps showing up in the joins
part way through a run if you don't keep a close eye.

Only those fingers in a particular location see to be the culprits and no
amount of tightening solves the problem.

Replaced both with unused ones to no avail, so I'm assuming it is an issue
with the bar they slide on ... perhaps worn from use, or from over
tightening in the past?

As always, the final product is quite acceptable and a damn sight quicker
and better than if I did 20 drawers by hand, but it is exasperating that
absolute consistency in a large run of batch cut drawer parts has always
been somewhat unattainable using my particular Leigh.

One or two, or a few drawers, no problems ...

Do you have any PSA sand paper? I wonder if you applied some to that bar if
things would stay in place. If you want to consider doing that and don't
have the paper, I can help you out.

the gap problem might be a worn bushing

shelloy

wrote in message
...
the gap problem might be a worn bushing

shelloy

Probably not, as he stated that the fingers move.

On Sep 23, 7:53*pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

the gap problem might be a worn bushing

shelloy

Probably not, as he stated that the fingers move.

I understand, but still doubt it. It would take quite a bang (like
dropping it) to bend a finger The impression I got is that he meant
the fingers wiggle - something I don't understand at all.

Besides, if a finger moves wider in one direction then it would close
in the other. I don't think the dovetail would even close at that pont

He might be talking about the "fingers" of the joint itself, in which
case it could be either a worn or flattened bushing, or a setup
problem - wood not clamped down well enough, the side guides working
themselves loose, etc. Maybe even the pressure that he's using on the
template. IIRC, the instructions say to only route along one side of
the finger template

shelly

Swingman wrote:

Mark & Juanita wrote:

If you've looked through the archives, you've read of my recent
investigation into trying to get gapless dovetails with my D4 (not a D4R)
and my decision to replace it with the Akeda jig. If you can get the
optional router support for the D4R, that may alleviate part of the
problems I was seeing.

Recently did another batch of kitchen drawers with my 7 year old Leigh
D4 (half blind joints). Biggest problem in batch routing parts in a run
of 20 or so drawers with the jig is that some of the fingers move apart
very slightly, but noticeably, over time, with gaps showing up in the
joins part way through a run if you don't keep a close eye.


That was one of the sources of error I identified. In my case, it didn't
take very much for the gaps to start. Another error source is that the
fingers can have a variable gap; i.e., the gap from the pin side to the
tail side is not equal. Like you, I found that swapping the fingers didn't
help much.

Only those fingers in a particular location see to be the culprits and
no amount of tightening solves the problem.

Replaced both with unused ones to no avail, so I'm assuming it is an
issue with the bar they slide on ... perhaps worn from use, or from over
tightening in the past?

As always, the final product is quite acceptable and a damn sight
quicker and better than if I did 20 drawers by hand, but it is
exasperating that absolute consistency in a large run of batch cut
drawer parts has always been somewhat unattainable using my particular
Leigh.

I agree that the results are "acceptable"; I was tired of acceptable and
wanted good; that's why I changed.


One or two, or a few drawers, no problems ...


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

Anyone in this thread considered/used the Woodrat?

-- Andy Barss