Just after some advice or tips...

Have a nice one piece Freud Chair Rail Molding bit -
http://freudtools.com/p-186-chair-rail-bits.aspx

Trying to figure out the best way of supporting the workpiece as I run it
past the bit... it needs to be firm against the fence and held down to the
table to produce an even rail molding without bumps, dips or deformities . I
tried a setup today with featherboards holding the piece against the fence
and down to the table but it seemed to get a lot of chattering and ended up
with an uneven surface... Wasn't too bad but I am sure I can do better! This
was on a farily light router table (because it had the high fence) and I
think the chattering was somewhat a result of a less than solid routing
surface and router table.

Planning on trying the cast iron router table next which should result in
less vibration and hopefully a better result... (i was taking light cuts
with same results) but just wondering if there is a better way than using
featherboards, particularly with regards to holding the work against the
fence... I'm thinking maybe an outer fence where the work rides between the
outer fence and the router fence. Kind of sandwiched in between. First
thought was that it sounded a bit dangerous wedging the work between two
fences, but this is kinda what the featherboards are doing anyway??

Planning on running 3m long pieces through to make and install chair rail in
mum's house. Its onlu crapiata pine but it will be painted over and only
decorative, not functional rail.

Any advice or tips welcome, otherwise I'll just keep trying with
featherboards alone...

Dean wrote:
Just after some advice or tips...

Have a nice one piece Freud Chair Rail Molding bit -
http://freudtools.com/p-186-chair-rail-bits.aspx

Trying to figure out the best way of supporting the workpiece as I
run it past the bit... it needs to be firm against the fence and held
down to the table to produce an even rail molding without bumps, dips
or deformities . I tried a setup today with featherboards holding the
piece against the fence and down to the table but it seemed to get a
lot of chattering and ended up with an uneven surface... Wasn't too
bad but I am sure I can do better! This was on a farily light router
table (because it had the high fence) and I think the chattering was
somewhat a result of a less than solid routing surface and router
table.
Planning on trying the cast iron router table next which should
result in less vibration and hopefully a better result... (i was
taking light cuts with same results) but just wondering if there is a
better way than using featherboards, particularly with regards to
holding the work against the fence... I'm thinking maybe an outer
fence where the work rides between the outer fence and the router
fence. Kind of sandwiched in between. First thought was that it
sounded a bit dangerous wedging the work between two fences, but this
is kinda what the featherboards are doing anyway??
Planning on running 3m long pieces through to make and install chair
rail in mum's house. Its onlu crapiata pine but it will be painted
over and only decorative, not functional rail.

Any advice or tips welcome, otherwise I'll just keep trying with
featherboards alone...

Just a thought: On my table, chattering occurs when the bit is not locked
down really tight.

Dean wrote:
Just after some advice or tips...

Have a nice one piece Freud Chair Rail Molding bit -
http://freudtools.com/p-186-chair-rail-bits.aspx

Trying to figure out the best way of supporting the workpiece as I
run it past the bit... it needs to be firm against the fence and held
down to the table to produce an even rail molding without bumps, dips
or deformities . I tried a setup today with featherboards holding the
piece against the fence and down to the table but it seemed to get a
lot of chattering and ended up with an uneven surface... Wasn't too
bad but I am sure I can do better! This was on a farily light router
table (because it had the high fence) and I think the chattering was
somewhat a result of a less than solid routing surface and router
table.
Planning on trying the cast iron router table next which should
result in less vibration and hopefully a better result... (i was
taking light cuts with same results) but just wondering if there is a
better way than using featherboards, particularly with regards to
holding the work against the fence... I'm thinking maybe an outer
fence where the work rides between the outer fence and the router
fence. Kind of sandwiched in between. First thought was that it
sounded a bit dangerous wedging the work between two fences, but this
is kinda what the featherboards are doing anyway??
Planning on running 3m long pieces through to make and install chair
rail in mum's house. Its onlu crapiata pine but it will be painted
over and only decorative, not functional rail.

Any advice or tips welcome, otherwise I'll just keep trying with
featherboards alone...

1. Your featherboards should be directly above and directly opposite the
bit. They need to exert a fair amount of pressure against the stock. For a
bit as big as the one you are using, the feather board pushing toward the
fence needs to be pretty thick...you need pressure against both the top and
bottom of the stock's side. No reason two featherboards can't be stacked.
With a spacer between if need be. Barring that, one featherboard slightly
below the stock mid point would be best. The featherboard(s) pushing down
are relatively unimportant in your case.

Even set up that way you may get some chattering. You can damp that by
using another set of featherboards on the outfeed side 3-6" away from the
bit. Gotta remember, a router bit isn't slicing like a knife, more like
chopping with an axe; there is a lot of force pushing the stock away from
the bit and fence.

A third set on the infeed side can help too but are less needed as you can
use your left hand to keep the stock positioned while feeding with the
right. The big advantage of infeed featherboards is that they help you feed
smoothly without pauses.

2. Big bits like that always make people say, "WOW!". Personally, I try to
avoid them. I try to avoid *any* bit that captures the stock...one where
stock movement away from the table or fence results in a messed up profile.
I'd rather use two bits to cut the same or similar profile.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Dean wrote:
Any advice or tips welcome, otherwise I'll just keep trying with
featherboards alone...


If it's possible, you'll find it much easier to run the edge of a larger
piece of wood through the bit, then cut off the profiled section on the
table saw.

It is very difficult to keep a thin piece of wood against a bit that
tall, even with strong feather boards close to the cutter. You need more
mass in the stock to keep it from flexing out at the bit.

You can run the profile on two sides of a thicker board, the rip it to
thickness on the table saw. Heck, you might be able to 4 pieces of chair
molding in that profile, from one 2x6.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Taking a hint from how shapers (with big ugly bits) are setup. Not so
much of a feather board but an actual board, with maybe a masonite or
other slick surface. Just build a channel that is exactly the same
size as the stock. One thing you can do to minimize friction is to
actually have a sort of single point of contact aligned with the bit
(above and to the side). so a slightly loose channel except for an
inch or so exactly at the bit.

#2, this is a lot of material for 1 pass. Just setup to do some
nibbles in multiple passes and get to the full depth cut in maybe 4
passes. You will be a lot happier. If you insist on hogging it out, at
least do a second skim pass to clean off any chatter.

If you do the lighter cuts, then you can have a slightly looser
channel.

As another posted said, if you can cut it on bigger stock then trim
off the excess, the additional mass in the stock makes it easier but
for this profile I think you would nedd some pretty massive hunk o'
wood.

On Jun 18, 4:34*am, "Dean" wrote:
Just after some advice or tips...

Have a nice one piece Freud Chair Rail Molding bit -http://freudtools.com/p-186-chair-rail-bits.aspx

Trying to figure out the best way of supporting the workpiece as I run it
past the bit... it needs to be firm against the fence and held down to the
table to produce an even rail molding without bumps, dips or deformities .. I
tried a setup today with featherboards holding the piece against the fence
and down to the table but it seemed to get a lot of chattering and ended up
with an uneven surface... Wasn't too bad but I am sure I can do better! This
was on a farily light router table (because it had the high fence) and I
think the chattering was somewhat a result of a less than solid routing
surface and router table.

Planning on trying the cast iron router table next which should result in
less vibration and hopefully a better result... (i was taking light cuts
with same results) but just wondering if there is a better way than using
featherboards, particularly with regards to holding the work against the
fence... I'm thinking maybe an outer fence where the work rides between the
outer fence and the router fence. Kind of sandwiched in between. First
thought was that it sounded a bit dangerous wedging the work between two
fences, but this is kinda what the featherboards are doing anyway??

Planning on running 3m long pieces through to make and install chair rail in
mum's house. Its onlu crapiata pine but it will be painted over and only
decorative, not functional rail.

Any advice or tips welcome, otherwise I'll just keep trying with
featherboards alone...