I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb

notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

Bigger gun, softer material.

Gotta' have enough torque to be able to drive them completely in first
go or you're done (as you learned). Most decking is done w/ new
pressure treated lumber which is so soft and wet it's possible.

Anything much harder will almost certainly require pilot hole.

--

"notbob" wrote in message
...
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb
A phillips head on a 8" screw is an exercise in futility. You either are
going to have to drill bigger pilot holes or go to lag screws. With lag
screws you have that big, beefy hex head to drive with a wrench of some
kind.

6" spikes, maybe gutter nails?


On Apr 15, 7:37*am, notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. *It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. *Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws. *

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? *I had to drill a hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. *My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
screw would start stripping out. *If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws? *

nb

"notbob" wrote in message
...
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb


Predrill the hole or use a 12 volt Impact Driver. Impact Drivers tend to
have 3 to 4 times more torque than most drills, including corded ones and
they tend to not strip out the screw heads. I typically will use my impact
driver to remove a Philips screw with a stripped out head.

notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb
You should also lubricate the screws with wax, soap, anything to make
them a bit slippery. It does help. Honest.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 08:37:40 -0700, jo4hn
wrote:

notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb
You should also lubricate the screws with wax, soap, anything to make
them a bit slippery. It does help. Honest.
mahalo,
jo4hn

....gas and wax, baby! Hex-head would help a ton, square drive too...

cg

notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and
she had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which
was nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally
used, so I used 8" deck screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining.
My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an
8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

1. hole (screws always need holes)

2. wax on threads

3. brace with a properly sized screw driving bit.

All the torque you want, depending on your arms


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:
notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and
she had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which
was nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally
used, so I used 8" deck screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining.
My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an
8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

1. hole (screws always need holes)

2. wax on threads

3. brace with a properly sized screw driving bit.

All the torque you want, depending on your arms

Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

notbob wrote:

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining.
My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an
8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

As has been mentioned, with a deck screw, you get one shot to get it
home.

Pilot hole required for all except possibly the softest woods. (Why
take a chance?)

Square drive or hex head screws preferred.

Have fun.

Lew

notbob wrote in
:

I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she
had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was
nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used,
so I used 8" deck screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
fence post. If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches
remaining. My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just
that the phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't
drive an 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb

I've found that having a good Phillips bit helps tremendously. The bit
should seat completely in the screw head and not move. I've seen several
"#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
DeWalt bits.

As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"dadiOH" wrote

Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.

--
I knew a guy who did that with lag screws. It was amazing. He had to apply
a fair amount of muscle, particularly on the longer ones. He then applied a
wrench to finish it and drive the lag screw flush.

Another thing is most deck screws are square hole and are higher grade.
Those with Phillips - they are Phillips-II as I recall and have much
better grip and leverage. Phillips bits don't fit near the same.

Martin

jo4hn wrote:
notbob wrote:
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had
plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.
My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
phillips head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a
good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
nb
You should also lubricate the screws with wax, soap, anything to make
them a bit slippery. It does help. Honest.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On 15 Apr 2009 19:57:04 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

notbob wrote in
:

I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she
had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was
nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used,
so I used 8" deck screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
fence post. If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches
remaining. My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just
that the phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't
drive an 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb

I've found that having a good Phillips bit helps tremendously. The bit
should seat completely in the screw head and not move. I've seen several
"#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
DeWalt bits.

....those aren't too bad, but they still cam out if they get worn at
all...I like the "shankless" variety preferred by drywallers and, when
I can find 'em, I'll stock-up. You won't find 'em at HD, I usually
get mine at my local tool supplier speciality shops. That said, I use
square drive more and more...

As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.

....whomever is responsible for that tool sits on the pedestal with the
wheel-guy!

cg

Puckdropper

Charlie Groh wrote in
:

I've found that having a good Phillips bit helps tremendously. The
bit should seat completely in the screw head and not move. I've seen
several "#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My
favorite are DeWalt bits.

...those aren't too bad, but they still cam out if they get worn at
all...I like the "shankless" variety preferred by drywallers and, when
I can find 'em, I'll stock-up. You won't find 'em at HD, I usually
get mine at my local tool supplier speciality shops. That said, I use
square drive more and more...

I figure they're cheap enough to replace when they start to get worn.
After all, why sell 25 packs if you don't expect people to replace them.
(Unlike garden hose washers, which are sold in 10 packs so you have to
buy 10 every time you need one.)

I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at the
local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking tools too.
:-))

As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.

...whomever is responsible for that tool sits on the pedestal with the
wheel-guy!

cg

And the power steering guy!


Puckdropper


Puckdropper

--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...

I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at the
local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking tools too.


The problem with using dry wall screws with wood working is that they tend
to break off more than a wood screw will. Dry wall screws are designed for
soft wood and dry wall, they are very brittle with little actual strength.
their biggest strength is that their heads are less likely to strip out than
the plastic packaged screws found at the Borg.

Keep in mind that shankless screws cause problems if you using them for wood
working. Screws with threads through out the length of the screw tend to
prevent two pieces of wood from being drawn together. Typically you have to
put the screw in, remove it and then reinsert it to get the joint to close.

On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 07:49:07 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
.. .

I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at the
local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking tools too.


The problem with using dry wall screws with wood working is that they tend
to break off more than a wood screw will. Dry wall screws are designed for
soft wood and dry wall, they are very brittle with little actual strength.
their biggest strength is that their heads are less likely to strip out than
the plastic packaged screws found at the Borg.

Keep in mind that shankless screws cause problems if you using them for wood
working. Screws with threads through out the length of the screw tend to
prevent two pieces of wood from being drawn together. Typically you have to
put the screw in, remove it and then reinsert it to get the joint to close.

....ach! Stupid me, I mean "reduced" shank bits! Sorry for my lingo
lameness...but I'm definitely referring to the "bit" and not by any
means the screws. But, now that you mention it, yes, drywall screws
*do* break off...they're on the brittle side. I'll still use 'em,
though usually as a third step: glue-bradnail-screw with pilot. They
may be subject to failure in a twist situation, but on the pull side
they are pretty dang strong...

cg

On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:48:19 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:


"dadiOH" wrote

Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.

--
I knew a guy who did that with lag screws. It was amazing. He had to apply
a fair amount of muscle, particularly on the longer ones. He then applied a
wrench to finish it and drive the lag screw flush.


....might as well use a big 'ol fat nail! LOL...nothin' like a bit of
pounding to test your structure...

cg

Charlie Groh wrote:
...ach! Stupid me, I mean "reduced" shank bits! Sorry for my lingo
lameness...but I'm definitely referring to the "bit" and not by any
means the screws. But, now that you mention it, yes, drywall screws
*do* break off...they're on the brittle side. I'll still use 'em,
though usually as a third step: glue-bradnail-screw with pilot. They
may be subject to failure in a twist situation, but on the pull side
they are pretty dang strong...

"Reduced shank"? Seems to me there's a Viagra joke in there somewhere...

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 10:42:01 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:


"notbob" wrote in message
...
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb
A phillips head on a 8" screw is an exercise in futility. You either are
going to have to drill bigger pilot holes or go to lag screws. With lag
screws you have that big, beefy hex head to drive with a wrench of some
kind.

Square head recessed or Star Drive (Torx) are far better than
Phillips. IMO, the OP should be using a Star Drive screw in this
situation, though it's still going to need a pilot hole. I only use
Phillips (pan head) for wall anchors and other light duty. Lag screws
are useful if the screw will be under a *lot* of shear stress and the
larger shank is needed.

On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 10:28:23 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:


"notbob" wrote in message
...
I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.

My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?

nb


Predrill the hole or use a 12 volt Impact Driver. Impact Drivers tend to
have 3 to 4 times more torque than most drills, including corded ones and
they tend to not strip out the screw heads. I typically will use my impact
driver to remove a Philips screw with a stripped out head.

Impact screwdrivers are amazing. I bought my Bosch because of a
recommendation here (with free 12V screwdriver) and have never been so
pleasantly surprised with a purchase.

"Leon" wrote in
:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...

I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at
the local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking
tools too.


The problem with using dry wall screws with wood working is that they
tend to break off more than a wood screw will. Dry wall screws are
designed for soft wood and dry wall, they are very brittle with little
actual strength. their biggest strength is that their heads are less
likely to strip out than the plastic packaged screws found at the
Borg.

Keep in mind that shankless screws cause problems if you using them
for wood working. Screws with threads through out the length of the
screw tend to prevent two pieces of wood from being drawn together.
Typically you have to put the screw in, remove it and then reinsert it
to get the joint to close.



I haven't had much trouble with the drywall/wood screws I usually get
from the big box stores. Of course, my primary working materials are
pine (Jummywood) and plywood, and I almost always predrill.

I /do/ have all sorts of problems with a fine thread drywall screws. The
only reason I use them is because I haven't remembered to get 1 1/4"
coarse thread screws.

Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...

I haven't had much trouble with the drywall/wood screws I usually get
from the big box stores. Of course, my primary working materials are
pine (Jummywood) and plywood, and I almost always predrill.

And soft wood is what they were designed to work with. You should continue
to have good results with soft woods.


I /do/ have all sorts of problems with a fine thread drywall screws. The
only reason I use them is because I haven't remembered to get 1 1/4"
coarse thread screws.


I bit the bullet many years ago after breaking too many dry wall screws. I
discovered dry wall screws about 25- 30 years ago, a few years later I
discovered the square drive hardened screws and that was that. IIRC I
bought a small assortment just because of the square drive advantages, I
had no idea that the screws were actually less likely to break. Today I
probably keep 2-3 thousand square drive screws on hand in 30 or so sizes and
styles. Because of their unique design I use more pocket hole screws in
other than pocket hole applications more and more now that they come in a
wide range of lengths.

On 2009-04-15, dpb wrote:

Gotta' have enough torque to be able to drive them completely in first
go or you're done (as you learned). Most decking is done w/ new
pressure treated lumber which is so soft and wet it's possible.

It's a 13-14V DeWalt. Didn't lack for torque. The gun didn't stop turning,
it just started stripping the head, no matter how much I leaned on it. I
think the gun has an impact setting, which I'll try next time.

nb

On 2009-04-15, dadiOH wrote:

Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.

Heh heh... On one stalled screw, I did exactly that! Being from the bigger
hammer school of mechanics, I'm never without my trusty 4lb sledge.

nb

On 2009-04-15, Puckdropper puckdropper wrote:


"#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
DeWalt bits.

I did use the dewalt tip, provided with the gun. I still think it a bit too
pointy. I have a few other phillips tips that are stubbed at the tip to
ensure full flute engagement.

As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.

Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of
those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get
stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch
electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this
gun might have an impact function.

I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with
this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro putting
up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I
could see. That was an eye-opener.

I'll learn.

nb

On 2009-04-16, Puckdropper puckdropper wrote:

I figure they're cheap enough to replace when they start to get worn.

A little info from my mechanic days. A GOOD hand/hammer impact driver has
indestructable bits, some better than others. I discovered Japanese bits
too soft and would twist after a few blows, but the Korean brands were
bullet proof. They also had blunted tips for full flute engagement. I'm
gonna find my old Korean driver and give that tip a try. I never ran across
a USA made driver, that style fastener (oval head phillips) not real popular
for engine assy in US. Maybe the one's Snap-On carries are US made. I've
not kept up with who makes what tools anymore, so many US tool companies
having gone under.

nb

"notbob" wrote:

Heh heh... On one stalled screw, I did exactly that! Being from the
bigger
hammer school of mechanics, I'm never without my trusty 4lb sledge.

AKA: "4 lb Drill Hammer", so it is definitely an appropriate tool
choicegrin

Lew

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 13:27:59 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2009-04-15, dpb wrote:

Gotta' have enough torque to be able to drive them completely in first
go or you're done (as you learned). Most decking is done w/ new
pressure treated lumber which is so soft and wet it's possible.

It's a 13-14V DeWalt. Didn't lack for torque. The gun didn't stop turning,
it just started stripping the head, no matter how much I leaned on it. I
think the gun has an impact setting, which I'll try next time.

nb

....that's not quite the same thing as a dedicated impact driver will
provide, it's a setting for rotodrilling and will engage as soon as
you put pressure on the tool...

cg

"notbob" wrote in message
...

Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of
those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get
stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch
electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this
gun might have an impact function.

OK I know what you are talking about here, manual hammer driven. Since you
are a mechanic you will understand, in the woodworking world the impact
driver is more like and works like an Impact Wrench except they are battery
operated and use 1/4" hex bits.




I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with
this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro
putting
up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I
could see. That was an eye-opener.

I'll learn.

nb

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 13:45:00 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2009-04-15, Puckdropper puckdropper wrote:


"#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
DeWalt bits.

I did use the dewalt tip, provided with the gun. I still think it a bit too
pointy. I have a few other phillips tips that are stubbed at the tip to
ensure full flute engagement.

As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.

Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of
those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get
stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch
electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this
gun might have an impact function.

Try a Bosch "Impactor" and you'll never go back to using a drill as a
screw gun. ;-)
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/T...px?pid=PS40-2A


I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with
this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro putting
up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I
could see. That was an eye-opener.

A hammer is still pretty good at coaxing boards into place. ;-)

I'll learn.

It's fun. "More power!" ;-)