My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve

"C & S" wrote:

My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom
is that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it
manually it groans and lumbers forward.

Sounds like it may be a bad start capacitor.

(It's located on the side of the motor under that little hump cover.)

Open cover and look at cap for leaks and rating.

Grainger, McMaster-Carr, local motor shop, good hardware store, etc,
should have replacement.

Lew

"C & S" wrote in message
...
My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually
it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve




You may have bad bearings especially if the armature is hard to turn with no
power.
One cause of a hum with no start condition is a bad capacitor.

Lots of places sell bearings. Motor shops should have capacitors in stock.

I suspect that you could buy both bearings and capacitor for less than $199.
However, a motor shop might charge you more than $199 to fix your motor.

Jim

C & S wrote:
My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve





I agree with the other posters that the most likely case is the start
capacitor. If you have another stationary tool with a motor in the 1.5
range try swapping the capacitor to see if it's the problem. For the
test the capacitor doesn't have to be an exact replacement, as long as
it's close to the 400 - 480 MFD range and rated for 120V. A new
capacitor will run about $10 - $15.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Nova wrote:

C & S wrote:

My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it
manually it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just
pry open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve





I agree with the other posters that the most likely case is the start
capacitor. If you have another stationary tool with a motor in the 1.5
range try swapping the capacitor to see if it's the problem. For the
test the capacitor doesn't have to be an exact replacement, as long as
it's close to the 400 - 480 MFD range and rated for 120V. A new
capacitor will run about $10 - $15.


CORRECTION - make that 400 - 480 MFD rated for 250V.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"
wrote:

The symptom is that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward.

If by "wobbles back and forth" you mean the shaft moves laterally
relative to the motor case, then your bearing are long gone. If you
mean a rotational wobble, then I'll echo the other responses. Take the
capacitor and a $10 bill to a local motor shop and get a replacement.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

"Jim" wrote in message
I suspect that you could buy both bearings and capacitor for less than
$199.
However, a motor shop might charge you more than $199 to fix your motor.

A repair shop is unlikely to charge more than a new motor might cost since
they wouldn't get much business. It's not going to hurt to take the motor in
and get an estimate. My 1 hp tablesaw motor bearings went a few years ago. I
knew they were going from the sound but resisted taking the motor in until I
sold the saw to a close friend. Estimate was $86 with a six month warranty.
A new motor would have cost me $200 ca with a two year warranty. Had the
motor repaired and it's run fine for the past twelve years.

"C & S" wrote in message
Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

What is the problem with a 30 mile ride? Take the wife to breakfast and
stop at the motor shop. Chances are, it can be fixed for cheap if it is
just a capacitor or such.

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 07:33:10 -0400, "StephenM"
wrote:

Good link.

What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.

Thanks,

Steve

Being a novice in electrical, here's what I did when my
vintage Delta's drill motor stopped working, I removed the
motor from the mounting and applied power, It will not
rotate. With the power still on, I manually rotate the
pulley, it continues to rotate and speed up to full rpm.
When I switched the power off, it stopped rotating. I repeat
the test a few times to be sure. I concluded that the
capacitor had failed as the capacitor main function is to
start the motor. However, if the motor cannot rotate
manually without power on, than it could be the bearings, or
if it rotates and make a sound it maybe the carbon brushes
or other problems. If you have a millimeter and know how to
test the motor winding do it, otherwise go 30 miles and have
someone test it for you, rather than replacing the motor
like I did.

To continue the story... I tried to resizing both pulleys to
get the RPM I need for my new motor, I found it's impossible
as the pulley size will be too big to fit the constrained
space. Anyone looking for a new unused Baldor motor? Make me
an offer that I cannot refuse. I am in CA.

I believe the capacitor you need is 7245K111.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7245k111/=14vfi5

If the spec and the size fit your motor click "1" on the
"EACH" at the lower left side... and you got a new
capacitor.

Good luck, please tell us the result :-)

BTW, C.H. Wilke Inc. no longer sell Yorkcraft and I still
using the Yorkcraft 15" planner.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"C & S" wrote in message
Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just
pry open my wallet?

What is the problem with a 30 mile ride? Take the wife to breakfast and
stop at the motor shop. Chances are, it can be fixed for cheap if it is
just a capacitor or such.

The problem with a 3o mile ride is the possibility that I have to drop it
off so that they can look at it later meaning 2 trips and a not so nominal
charge to declair it "not worth fixing" ... that's why I asked here to get a
feel for what might be wrong.

-steve

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"

wrote:

Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than
I was
pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing
it, I
found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250
without
the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor.
After I
moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could
have
repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster
Carr
type in exactly the specifications:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#capacitors/=14jbq7

Good link.

What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.

Thanks,

Steve

In article ,
says...

"WD" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:55:33 -0400, "C & S"

wrote:

Yeah, you are lucky. My similar Yorkcraft's motor quit after 2 years, than
I was
pretty dumb. I ordered a new Baldor motor (about $250) after installing
it, I
found I have the wrong RPM. I have a quick sale in craigslist for $250
without
the new Baldor motor. The buyer insist that I gave him the old motor.
After I
moved out of State and bought a used Delta DJ20, I realized that I could
have
repaired it by replacing the capacitor for less than $15. Go to McMaster
Carr
type in exactly the specifications:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#capacitors/=14jbq7

Good link.

What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).
I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.

microfarads IIRC...

Type MFD capacitor into google.

In article , "StephenM" wrote:
What's MFD anyway? It appears to be a unit of capacity (no pun intended).

Capacitance, actually -- a measure of the capacitor's ability to hold electric
charge. MFD = microfarads. This is also sometimes shown as the Greek letter mu
(which looks like a lower-case u with a tail) followed by the letter f.

I assume that I need to match the physical dimmensions, the voltage and just
come pretty close on the MFD. The capacitor for this motor is 125V 300MFD.

There's really no need at all to match the physical dimensions. The
new capacitor doesn't have to be mounted in the same orientation, or even in
the same place, as the old one. It just needs to have the same electrical
connections.

You don't need an exact match on the voltage; anything rated between 115V and
125V will match up with about anything else rated in the same range.

The capacitance needs to be a fairly close match, I'd guess +/- five or ten
percent. Exact match of course is better.

On Mar 23, 1:55*pm, "C & S" wrote:
My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Others have suggested 'bad start capacitor'.

In addition to the start capacitor, there's a switch that connects
the capacitor at startup and disconnects it during motor run.
Don't be so sure you need to buy parts; I've fixed motors
by cleaning sawdust from those switches.

It's usually inside the bell housing of the motor, near the
centrifugal arms (at speed, these weights pull a spring back
and the switch opens up).

"StephenM" wrote in message
The problem with a 3o mile ride is the possibility that I have to drop it
off so that they can look at it later meaning 2 trips and a not so nominal
charge to declair it "not worth fixing" ... that's why I asked here to get
a feel for what might be wrong.

-steve

The motor shops I've dealt with have never made a charge if it could not be
fixed. In my case, that would only be one trip since we have a telephone.
Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.

And here I thought that was something only done in SoCalgrin

Assume "good bread" includes good deli rye, something that is almost
impossible to find in Socal.

Lew

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 22:44:46 +0000, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Assume "good bread" includes good deli rye, something that is almost
impossible to find in Socal.

It's pretty difficult to find in Eastern WA as well :-(.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

Of course, I'll drive 30 miles just to get a loaf of good bread.

And here I thought that was something only done in SoCalgrin

Assume "good bread" includes good deli rye, something that is almost
impossible to find in Socal.

Lew

That is exactly what I mean. Widoff's Bakery in Worcester MA had a great
sourdough Jewish rye, just like the old days. Just don't go the day before
Christmas or Easter unless you can wait in line for a half hour at 7 AM.
Same thing at Golemo's for the kielbasa. There are a few very good ethnic
stores in the area.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


Same thing at Golemo's for the kielbasa.

You want good fresh kielbasa or Italian sausage, ya gotta make your
own.

Still got my hand grinder and sausage stuffer snout at the ready.

Lew

Try this to see where the problem is: remove the belt. Disconnect the
capacitor and jumper the two leads together that went to the capacitor. Try
to start the motor. It should start, but it may start slowly and without a
lot of torque. If it starts, then the internal switch and mechanism are good
and you have a bad starting capacitor. If it still won't start, then the
internal switch is either bad or has sawdust in between the contacts.

Starting capacitors on dual voltage motors are generally rated at around 125
V (because the starting winding will only see 125 V regardless of the
voltage that the motor is connected for). A ballpark for MFD rating is
approx. 200 MFD per horsepower for a 3450 rpm motor.

Doug
"C & S" wrote in message
...
My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
that
it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually it
groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve

Update

I found a motor place a little closer by ... more like 20 miles. My wife
brought him the capacitor and he tested it... sadly, it was good.

I schlepped down there at yesterday with the rest of the motor. He opened it
put right then an did quickie diagnosis. He short, he got it working in
about five minutes by cleaning up the contacts on the centrifugal switch and
adjusting it's tension. He said that we pull it apart and clean it up before
returning it. He had it for all of 1:45 before I gat the call that I could
have it back. I don't know what the bill will be but it can't be all that
bad.

Thanks all for the help,

Steve

"C & S" wrote in message
...
My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually
it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve

StephenM wrote:
Update

I found a motor place a little closer by ... more like 20 miles. My wife
brought him the capacitor and he tested it... sadly, it was good.

I schlepped down there at yesterday with the rest of the motor. He opened it
put right then an did quickie diagnosis. He short, he got it working in
about five minutes by cleaning up the contacts on the centrifugal switch and
adjusting it's tension. He said that we pull it apart and clean it up before
returning it. He had it for all of 1:45 before I gat the call that I could
have it back. I don't know what the bill will be but it can't be all that
bad.

Thanks all for the help,

Steve

"C & S" wrote in message
...
My jointer, (Yorrcraft YC-8) motor quit this afternoon. The symptom is
that it hums and the shaft wobbles back and forth. If I turn it manually
it groans and lumbers forward. The unit is about 6 years old

I opened up the wiring box and everything is still well-attached

Wilke will sell me a replacement for $199 (it's a 1.5hp 110/220 TFEC
motor).

The one motor repair shop In the area is about 30 miles away.

Do you think there is any merit to attempting to fix it or should just pry
open my wallet?

Thanks,

Steve






I had thought of that when you originally posted but did not post since
it sounded like you had the motor apart, and I assumed that it had been
cleaned.

Exactly the same thing happened to me several years ago. I was using the
saw and it stopped dead. After shopping around, I decided to have it
fixed, and took the motor and my checkbook to the repair shop. It took
him about the same time to fix my motor. As I remember he charged a
couple of bucks for the cleaning.

The good thing he showed me some places that I had not been cleaning and
a couple of oil ports that I did not know exist.

One point. Be caused you were trying to get the motor started you may
check the wiring in the cord and off-on switch. I just discovered
recently that some wires got hot and melted the insulation. I have
taped them and am looking for a replacement switch for my 40 year old
Craftsman table saw.

Yes I know their reputation, but am not about to change as everything
works perfectly and everything is in alignment. With its cast iron top
it will probably passed on to my grandson and be used for another 40 years.

On Thu, 26 Mar 2009 08:59:16 -0400, Keith Nuttle wrote:

I have taped
them and am looking for a replacement switch for my 40 year old
Craftsman table saw.

Yes I know their reputation, but am not about to change as everything
works perfectly and everything is in alignment. With its cast iron top
it will probably passed on to my grandson and be used for another 40
years.

Their reputation 40 years ago was pretty darn good! I suspect you've got
a keeper there.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw