What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

Cheers

On a table saw with a sled


Len
"

wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

Cheers

Make a tall miter box and use a handsaw.

wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

Cheers

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313

That looks good but I think I might make my own.
45 degrees is the easy angle. Take a board 8' long and another 8'
and make one out of that. The length from the 'bolt' that
pivots them to the same point on the end of each must be matched
and of equal length.

Now you have a very accurate angle. Shorter is less and the 4"
ones used in school are less than all.

This will mark the line. It can be adjusted parallel to the line
to guide the saw but you might have saw guides already.

Martin

DGDevin wrote:
wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

Cheers

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313

On Sun, 15 Feb 2009 15:10:09 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

Cheers


Probably the best tool is a radial arm saw or sliding miter. The cuts
can be made a tablesaw using a home-made panel cutter with a runner.
Without either of these, you could build a wooden miter box (that can
be clamped down) and use a backsaw to made the cuts. Not the best
choice, but a circular saw might do the job with some kind of fence
setup or jig. Use a sharp blade.

On Feb 15, 6:10*pm, " wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? *Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ne-buffet-hutc...

Cheers

By miter saw do you mean compound miter saw?

If so you can get a little more out of it by raising the piece you are
cutting by putting another piece of wood under it. This raises the
work piece nearer to the center of the blade instead of the bottom.

On Feb 15, 6:05*pm, "Len" wrote:
On a table saw with a sled

Len
"

How do you support the opposite end and keep the piece moving
uniformly through the blade? It's a 6' piece. I only have 20" or so
of table to the left of the blade.

On Feb 15, 9:28*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
On Feb 15, 6:10*pm, " wrote:

What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? *Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ne-buffet-hutc...

Cheers

By miter saw do you mean compound miter saw?

If so you can get a little more out of it by raising the piece you are
cutting by putting another piece of wood under it. *This raises the
work piece nearer to the center of the blade instead of the bottom.

It's a compound miter saw, but stand the piece up on it's edge, the
blade will not cut through it (too tall). Too wide to cut layed down
even on another piece as well.

" wrote in
:

What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...e-buffet-hutch.
gif

Cheers

Circular saws can often be tipped 45 degrees, so you might be able to
make the cut with one. I'd consider a circular saw cut in this case to
be a rough cut, and finish using a hand-held belt sander.

The easiest answer would be to find a larger saw. You need a sliding CMS
or a radial arm saw for this cut. The cheapest would be to use a hand
saw with a miter gauge.

Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
some writers are incorrigible.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

" wrote
..
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

This really needs a diagram, but for a long piece that is difficult to
machine, try the following:

Knock up a U-shaped 'mitre box' with one end angled at 45deg.

Across the top of the box fit a bridge piece.

With the job in the box, make a wedge to fit between the work and the
bridge.

Use a smoothing plane, guided by the box ends to whip off the waste in no
time at all.

Jeff.


--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

In article , " wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Take your pick, depending on what's available to you:

- radial arm saw
- sliding compound miter saw
- portable circular saw with a guide clamped across the board

In article , "DGDevin" wrote:
wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):
http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ffet-hutch.gif

Cheers

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313

Or get a speed square at any hardware store for 1/4 the cost...

This really needs a diagram, but for a long piece that is difficult to
machine, try the following:

Knock up a U-shaped 'mitre box' with one end angled at 45deg.

Across the top of the box fit a bridge piece.

With the job in the box, make a wedge to fit between the work and the
bridge.

Use a smoothing plane, guided by the box ends to whip off the waste in
no time at all.


Jeff:

If I am reading your post correctly, I think I watched someone use this
method once. It was kind of like a variation on a shooting board, only
the person demonstrating used a low angle block plane. One of those 2
hour seminars at a Woodworking show I paid some money to see. (I didn't
expect him to bring his best and sharpest plane to such a show /
demonstration so that maybe why the block plane.)

Amazing results, when done by an experienced pro with a very sharp
plane. Not all that time consuming, if done by an experienced pro.

But gosh, that technique usually requires a few "Mulligans" the first
time a woodworker tries it on his / her own. Not for knot free straight
grain black-cherry wood 8' long board first time out. Trust me on the
"Mulligan" do-over bit.

Phil

On Feb 15, 3:10*pm, " wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? *Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ne-buffet-hutc...

Cheers

How about using a router with a guide bushing, using a drafting tri-
angle as a template?

On Feb 15, 8:56 pm, " wrote:
On Feb 15, 6:05 pm, "Len" wrote:

On a table saw with a sled

Len
"

How do you support the opposite end and keep the piece moving
uniformly through the blade? It's a 6' piece. I only have 20" or so
of table to the left of the blade.

Use a couple of roller supports, and rest the workpiece on a board
that travels along the rollers? With a good grip, I've done this. Tom

wrote:
On Feb 15, 6:05 pm, "Len" wrote:
On a table saw with a sled

Len
"

How do you support the opposite end and keep the piece moving
uniformly through the blade? It's a 6' piece. I only have 20" or so
of table to the left of the blade.


Clamp the work to the sled and add counterweight to the other side of
the sled.

I dado 8' long bookcase sides using this method, with fantastic results.

On Feb 15, 6:10*pm, " wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? *Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

Look at the bottom of this piece and you'll get an idea of what I'm
trying to make (though I think mine is wider):http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/...ne-buffet-hutc...

Cheers

A 6" wide fence, a couple of clamps, and a Swanson Speedsquare and a
sharp blade in a circular saw.

wrote:

What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? Also this would be on a long piece approx. 6'
long, so it's not easy to do on the tablesaw (with any technique I
know anyway)..

That one is easy. Use a track saw such as a Festool TS-55 and you can
cut your 45 degree miters as wide as you want, a miter 8' long is easy
with one of these. You will also find it needs no cleanup after cutting.

--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

"Jerome Meekings" wrote in message
That one is easy. Use a track saw such as a Festool TS-55 and you can
cut your 45 degree miters as wide as you want, a miter 8' long is easy
with one of these. You will also find it needs no cleanup after cutting.

Just looked at a YouTube video of this saw in action. They tout splinter
free cuts. Does anyone have experience with this saw when it comes to cross
cutting veneered plywood? How *good* are cross cuts with this saw?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwRvBNZRIek

Upscale wrote:

Just looked at a YouTube video of this saw in action. They tout splinter
free cuts. Does anyone have experience with this saw when it comes to cross
cutting veneered plywood? How *good* are cross cuts with this saw?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwRvBNZRIek

With a sharp blade at 90deg and its optional Splinter guard it is
between very good and perfect on both sides and ready for glue up

Without the Splinter guard on the saw, it is between very good and
perfect on the rail side and good to very good on the waste side.

At 45deg it is between very good and perfect on the rail side.

I now usually cut to final size with it.

It has a great advantage over the table saw when breaking down sheet
goods. Unless you have a very big ($$$$$) sliding table. :-)

For a comparrison between it and the new DeWalt Track saw have a look at
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/81-dewalt-tracksaw-review/

Marc says "Here is my review of the DeWalt Tracksaw, FINALLY! As much
as I tried to focus solely on the Tracksaw, its nearly impossible not to
draw comparisons to the Festool TS line of plunge saws. Let me sum it
all up by saying you need to be really picky to find distinctions that
will make a real difference to the average woodworker. If you are trying
to make a decision between these two saws, you will probably need to
look at bigger picture things like price, system approach, warranty, and
interoperability with other tools. But if you are looking for a saw that
makes extremely safe and clean cuts with good dust collection, either
saw will fit the bill.



--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

"Jerome Meekings" wrote in message
With a sharp blade at 90deg and its optional Splinter guard it is
between very good and perfect on both sides and ready for glue up

Without the Splinter guard on the saw, it is between very good and
perfect on the rail side and good to very good on the waste side.

Thanks, that's the information I'm looking for. Since I don't have the money
(or space) to incorporate a panel saw, I'm always on the lookout for some
decent method to cut to size, and even better, finished size.

Upscale wrote:

Thanks, that's the information I'm looking for. Since I don't have the money
(or space) to incorporate a panel saw, I'm always on the lookout for some
decent method to cut to size, and even better, finished size.


A big advantage is there is no offset to work out. Just put the rail on
your cut line and you get a perfect size. Of course you still need to
remember which is the waste side ;-)


The TS-55 rail and Vac are not cheep but they are very good. colect 90
to 95% of the sawdust if used on an expanded polly cutting surface. And
if you want a longer rail you just pay the difference when you buy the
saw. The saw always comes with a 1.4M rail and often there is a deal if
you get a festool vac with it.

The one problem is that you may well become an adict ;-) specialy if you
like a minimum dust shop.


--
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Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
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Jerome Meekings wrote:

The TS-55 rail and Vac are not cheep but they are very good.

I fogot to mention that in the US there is a 30 day money back no
question garentee also all festools have a 3 year guarentee
--
replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me
Pics at http://www.meekings.net/diving/index.shtml
and http://www.meekings.net/photo-groups/nui/index.shtml

On Feb 15, 3:10*pm, " wrote:
What is the best technique for cutting 45 degree miters on piece 6" or
so wide (too wide for my miter saw), for something like a base trim
piece of a cabinet? *Also this would be on a long piece

Either a compound miter saw, or a radial arm saw, can do it easily.
If you don't want to buy or rent those, you can use a good guide
and a Skilsaw (any brand hand power saw).

Or, you can rip the trim to 3", and do it with your miter saw.
Rejoin the halves with a decorative bead, it'll
look great.

Doug Miller wrote:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313

Or get a speed square at any hardware store for 1/4 the cost...

I have one of these and it works great, lets me nail the angle and it's
thick enough to function as a cutting guide for a circular saw or jig saw.
I use speed squares all the time, but I sure can't hit 15° cut after cut
with one. And it was on sale and the wife was with me when I bought it, you
can't walk away from a situation like that.

http://www.chhanson.com/pivotsquare.html