Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

On Mon, 09 Feb 2009 19:36:27 -0600, Digger wrote:

Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

For half the price you can get a can of Johnson's Wax that will last
10 years or more. I use it on the plastic laminate tablesaw extension
too. Usually I hand buff, sometimes use an electric auto buffer. No
rust at all, but having A/C in the shop helps.

"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth


Right now Woodworkers Hardware has it for $8.72 for a 10.75 oz can.

Empire products, the original makers of Top Coat makes an equally effective
product.

"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years

Sac Dave wrote:
"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth


I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years

Some automotive waxes contain silicone, which can cause finishing
problems if it gets on your wood. Whether or not enough will transfer
from the saw to the wood to cause problems may depend on how much is
applied and how well it's buffed off.

Chris

On Feb 9, 5:36*pm, Digger wrote:
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

Try Plexus. Available at any motorcycle shop or plastics company.
It's used for motorcycle windshields. I used it on mine. Your most
economical resource is definitely Johnson's Paste Wax or Minwax
Paste. A little more work, but definitely less expensive and a great
slide for your wood. When I didn't have Plexus, I did use Top Coat
and it was the best. Economic times have changed that now. :-(

Sac Dave wrote:
"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years

Not a good idea, unless you're absolutely sure it doesn't contain
silicone. If you're going to use wax, Johnson's or Butcher's is a
better bet. Personally I use Boeshield, which one can get at Sears.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Digger wrote:
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth
KY Jelly. grape.

J. Clarke wrote:
Sac Dave wrote:
"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years

Not a good idea, unless you're absolutely sure it doesn't contain
silicone. If you're going to use wax, Johnson's or Butcher's is a
better bet. Personally I use Boeshield, which one can get at Sears.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I love it! Glad you have a sense of humor.


--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

You know what I always say...

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:14:17 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:

Sac Dave wrote:
"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years

Not a good idea, unless you're absolutely sure it doesn't contain
silicone. If you're going to use wax, Johnson's or Butcher's is a
better bet. Personally I use Boeshield, which one can get at Sears.

--

I usually cut my wood BEFORE I sand it - why would I worry about a
miniscule transfer of silicone to unsanded wood?

BTW, I like Trewax better than Johnsons - haven't tried Butchers.

After a couple of years of monthly use (approx.) I now wax once or twice
a year. In an unheated shop in a wet winter climate I never see rust.
Well, there was the time I set a piece of green wood on the tablesaw
overnight :-(.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:55:52 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:

Sac Dave wrote:
"Digger" wrote in message
news
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth


I just use any automotive paste wax one can will last years

Some automotive waxes contain silicone, which can cause finishing
problems if it gets on your wood. Whether or not enough will transfer
from the saw to the wood to cause problems may depend on how much is
applied and how well it's buffed off.

Chris
Buy some BoeLube. Not cheap, but EXCELLENT and will not interfere
with finishing.

Digger wrote:
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth


I use paste wax, like Butcher's, TreWax, Minwax...

A $5 can lasts me years.

Jimmy Mac wrote:

Try Plexus.

Got a reasonably priced source?

I use that on airplane windshields, because I have to, and I pay more
for a can of Plexus than Top Cote.

Larry Blanchard wrote:

I usually cut my wood BEFORE I sand it - why would I worry about a
miniscule transfer of silicone to unsanded wood?

Do you spray NC lacquer or water based finishes? You would if you did.

wrote in message
...
Buy some BoeLube. Not cheap, but EXCELLENT and will not interfere
with finishing.

Which one do you use and where do you get it? I am looking here,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...es/boelube.php

On Feb 10, 10:33*am, jo4hn wrote:
Digger wrote:
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth

KY Jelly. *grape.

Try the bacon.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:44:03 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
Buy some BoeLube. Not cheap, but EXCELLENT and will not interfere
with finishing.

Which one do you use and where do you get it? I am looking here,
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...es/boelube.php

09-01731. And at $3.65 it's cheap.

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 16:36:44 -0500, B A R R Y
wrote:

Digger wrote:
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth


I use paste wax, like Butcher's, TreWax, Minwax...

A $5 can lasts me years.


OK I tried Johnson Paste Wax and don't see a need to use anything
else. Works great!!
Appreciate all the comments
Thanks

Larry Blanchard writes:

I usually cut my wood BEFORE I sand it - why would I worry about a
miniscule transfer of silicone to unsanded wood?

Because silicone can cause fisheyes in the finish.

On Feb 10, 1:38*pm, B A R R Y wrote:
Jimmy Mac wrote:

Try Plexus.

Got a reasonably priced source?

I use that on airplane windshields, because I have to, and I pay more
for a can of Plexus than Top Cote.

Top Cote runs around $17.95 here in Vegas
Plexus is $9.25 at Jensen USA
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...y.aspx?sc=FRGL

Jimmy Mac wrote:
On Feb 10, 1:38 pm, B A R R Y wrote:
Jimmy Mac wrote:

Try Plexus.
Got a reasonably priced source?

I use that on airplane windshields, because I have to, and I pay more
for a can of Plexus than Top Cote.

Top Cote runs around $17.95 here in Vegas
Plexus is $9.25 at Jensen USA
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...y.aspx?sc=FRGL


7 oz. can? G That would clean my windshield 3 times.

I pay ~ $13.95 for a 16 oz. can at the airplane supply house. Top Cote
is ~ $12.95, for the big can locally.

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:19:46 -0500, Maxwell Lol wrote:

Larry Blanchard writes:

I usually cut my wood BEFORE I sand it - why would I worry about a
miniscule transfer of silicone to unsanded wood?

Because silicone can cause fisheyes in the finish.

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.

Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.


You'd be surprised...

On Feb 12, 10:04*am, B A R R Y wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. *Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.

You'd be surprised...

Does that mean it would be an "eye opener?" Get it - fish eye . . .
eye opener????

Lord forgive me and bless the Pygmies in New Guinea . . . amen. :-)

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:33:20 +0000, jo4hn wrote
(in article ):

Digger wrote:
Anyone have a reasonably priced supplier for TopCote or a equal or
better product to lubricate saw top and surrounding table (plastic
laminate) surface.
Thanks in advance
kenneth
KY Jelly. grape.

Don't ya just hate it when your tongue sticks in the mitre slot?

Jimmy Mac wrote:
On Feb 12, 10:04 am, B A R R Y wrote:
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.
You'd be surprised...

Does that mean it would be an "eye opener?" Get it - fish eye . . .
eye opener????

Lord forgive me and bless the Pygmies in New Guinea . . . amen. :-)
Peace on you. You are forgiven.
Go4d

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:04:02 -0500, B A R R Y wrote:

Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.


You'd be surprised...

I haven't been yet :-).

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:19:06 -0600, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:04:02 -0500, B A R R Y wrote:

Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.


You'd be surprised...

I haven't been yet :-).


Wait 'till you use some porous wood, like walnut.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:04:02 -0500, B A R R Y wrote:

Larry Blanchard wrote:

Somehow I think you missed my point. Any silicone transferred to the
wood will get sanded off before finishing.

You'd be surprised...

I haven't been yet :-).

Don't let experience get in the way of the facts...

BTW, my old shop was in the basement that got water in it when it
rained. Wax was horrible as a lubricant and lasted about no time before
rust reared it's ugly head. I stumbled over a spray lube from 3M that
worked almost exactly like Top Coat, and never once got any rust and
wood slid like there was ZERO friction, like it was on an air cushion.
They apparently no longer make the stuff so I bought some Top Coat. It
goes on the same and slides just as good as the 3M stuff. How well it
stops rust or lasts I don't know because I no longer have a water
problem and rust is almost a non-issue, and I've only used top coat a
few months, one coat still is working fine, little usage though.

I paid $9.99 for a spray can of Top Coat at a local wood machinery
dealer. After using wax and Top Coat, Top Coat wins hands down.

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

In article , Jack Stein wrote:

BTW, my old shop was in the basement that got water in it when it
rained. Wax was horrible as a lubricant and lasted about no time before
rust reared it's ugly head.

It seems to me that whether wax works for you, or not, depends on the
humidity. I live in Indianapolis; not the most arid part of the U.S. by a
long shot, but nothing like the Gulf Coast either. My shop is also in the
basement, but I don't have water infiltration problems, and I run
dehumidifiers year-round. Wax works just fine as a rust protectant for me.

Leon, who lives in Houston, and has his shop in the garage IIRC, has a *very*
different opinion of how well wax works as a rust protectant. g

On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:09:03 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:


It seems to me that whether wax works for you, or not, depends on the
humidity. I live in Indianapolis; not the most arid part of the U.S. by
a long shot, but nothing like the Gulf Coast either. My shop is also in
the basement, but I don't have water infiltration problems, and I run
dehumidifiers year-round. Wax works just fine as a rust protectant for
me.

That may be true. I live in Eastern Washington and my shop is unheated/
uncooled except when I'm in it. We have low humidity in the summer and
high humidity in the winter. No rust problems.

But it may also be the application of the wax. When I first get a power
tool with a cast iron top, it seems I have to apply wax every month or
so. Over time this requirement gradually diminishes until after a couple
of years I only have to do it once or twice a year. Seems the pores get
filled up.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
om...
On Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:09:03 +0000, Doug Miller wrote:


That may be true. I live in Eastern Washington and my shop is unheated/
uncooled except when I'm in it. We have low humidity in the summer and
high humidity in the winter. No rust problems.

But it may also be the application of the wax. When I first get a power
tool with a cast iron top, it seems I have to apply wax every month or
so. Over time this requirement gradually diminishes until after a couple
of years I only have to do it once or twice a year. Seems the pores get
filled up.


The first day that I had my new saw, 8 years ago, I coated the top with
Boeshield. So much so that the top was not visible until I wiped it down.
I had been using TopCote and or what ever what they were calling it at the
time for about 12 years prior, then I continued to assemble the saw. There
was rust the next morning and oddly I never get condensing moisture that is
visible.

Back then the product was sold as a top lubricant, I was pleasantly
surprised back in the late 80's when I discovered that it also prevented
rust, Bonus!. Say what you will about Craftsman TSs, Mine had the rough
grind cast iron top. It always processed wood more smoothly than the top on
my Jet cabinet saw. Better brand equipment does not have highly polished
work surfaces. The ground grooves in the top provided/s less friction.

Doug Miller wrote:

It seems to me that whether wax works for you, or not, depends on the
humidity.

I think that goes for most protectants.

You should see internet discussions on bicycle chain lubes. G

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Jack Stein wrote:

BTW, my old shop was in the basement that got water in it when it
rained. Wax was horrible as a lubricant and lasted about no time before
rust reared it's ugly head.

It seems to me that whether wax works for you, or not, depends on the
humidity. I live in Indianapolis; not the most arid part of the U.S. by a
long shot, but nothing like the Gulf Coast either. My shop is also in the
basement, but I don't have water infiltration problems, and I run
dehumidifiers year-round. Wax works just fine as a rust protectant for me.

Leon, who lives in Houston, and has his shop in the garage IIRC, has a *very*
different opinion of how well wax works as a rust protectant. g

Yes, my shop was an extreme condition. I figure if wax didn't work
under those circumstances and something else did, then that something
else would work better under more normal conditions. Unfortunately,
that something that worked is no longer available. I even sent email to
3M with the product number (I still have an empty can of it from 28
years ago) They sent me back they didn't know nothing about it... Top
Coat has very similar looking can though, check out the Old 3M can and
the new TopCoat can here in these side by side pictures I took:

http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube1.jpg
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube2.jpg

Top Coat I know goes on the same as the 3M stuff did, and it is super
slick, as the 3M stuff was. How durable or long lasting and how good it
is at protecting against rust I don't know, because I don't use my tools
as much as I did, and my shop now is dry as a bone, other than normal
Pittsburgh humidity. So far though, my $10 can of top coat is doing the
job.

Anyhow, if anyone knows anything about the 3M product pictured, I'd LOVE
to know about it.

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , Jack Stein
wrote:



Yes, my shop was an extreme condition. I figure if wax didn't work under
those circumstances and something else did, then that something else would
work better under more normal conditions. Unfortunately, that something
that worked is no longer available. I even sent email to 3M with the
product number (I still have an empty can of it from 28 years ago) They
sent me back they didn't know nothing about it... Top Coat has very
similar looking can though, check out the Old 3M can and the new TopCoat
can here in these side by side pictures I took:

http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube1.jpg
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube2.jpg

Top Coat I know goes on the same as the 3M stuff did, and it is super
slick, as the 3M stuff was. How durable or long lasting and how good it
is at protecting against rust I don't know, because I don't use my tools
as much as I did, and my shop now is dry as a bone, other than normal
Pittsburgh humidity. So far though, my $10 can of top coat is doing the
job.


Food for thought, I bought and sold 3M products in the 70's, 80's, and
90's. Pretty much all their aerosol products looked the same. TopCote was
originally developed and manufactured by the current makers of Empire
products. They also manufactured a bearing lubricant for router bits, and a
lubricant for router bit and saw cutting edges. The original TopCote
products were dispensed from a plastic pump bottle. It went on and looked
the same as it does now. Empire TopSaver and their other products are
again/also dispensed from a plastic pump bottle.

Leon wrote:
"Jack Stein" wrote in message
Top Coat has very
similar looking can though, check out the Old 3M can and the new TopCoat
can here in these side by side pictures I took:

http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube1.jpg
http://jbstein.com/Flick/Lube2.jpg

Food for thought, I bought and sold 3M products in the 70's, 80's, and
90's. Pretty much all their aerosol products looked the same.

I bought this 3M dry Lube in the 1970's. My buddy worked for 3M and he
was at a seminar or something in Minnesota or where ever their head
quarters are and he found this stuff in the company store. Not sure if
it was available any where else but I assume it was. I can't be the
only living guy around that knew about it though, and it I will attest
it worked unbelievably well for our purposes as woodworkers, and much
better than wax. The can said it was good to 400° F so probably good
for saw blades too, but I don't think I ever tried that, figured it
would be a waste of time.

I don't suppose you recognized the can or you would have said something.

The can has lots of warnings about breathing the stuff and even said
don't smoke or even keep tobacco products in the work area. I figured
the stuff would cause cancer in a few minutes of use so 3M quit making
it and denied even knowing about it.:-)

TopCote was
originally developed and manufactured by the current makers of Empire
products. They also manufactured a bearing lubricant for router bits, and a
lubricant for router bit and saw cutting edges. The original TopCote
products were dispensed from a plastic pump bottle. It went on and looked
the same as it does now. Empire TopSaver and their other products are
again/also dispensed from a plastic pump bottle.

I've only used TopCoat, I cleaned off all my tops with lacquer thinner,
and spayed it on about 6 months ago... still slick, and no rust. Thing
is, with absolutely nothing on my tops, it takes about a year for my
tops to turn a rusty color. My old shop that would happen in hours, and
with wax about a month or less. The 3M stuff lasted about a year of
heavy (hobbyist, not commercial) use in the nastiest of conditions. I
still have some in the can but the aerosol went south. If the TopCoat
is half as good, I'll be happy.

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...


I bought this 3M dry Lube in the 1970's. My buddy worked for 3M and he was
at a seminar or something in Minnesota or where ever their head quarters
are and he found this stuff in the company store. Not sure if it was
available any where else but I assume it was. I can't be the only living
guy around that knew about it though, and it I will attest it worked
unbelievably well for our purposes as woodworkers, and much better than
wax. The can said it was good to 400° F so probably good for saw blades
too, but I don't think I ever tried that, figured it would be a waste of
time.

I don't suppose you recognized the can or you would have said something.

I recognized the style label, they changed to a picture on the label in the
90's. I did not recognize the product, that said I was only dealing with
the automotive 3M products. I always had an endless supply of sand paper.
The seminar was probably in Minnesota, their head quarters location, 3M,
Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing.



The can has lots of warnings about breathing the stuff and even said don't
smoke or even keep tobacco products in the work area. I figured the stuff
would cause cancer in a few minutes of use so 3M quit making it and denied
even knowing about it.:-)

TopCote was
originally developed and manufactured by the current makers of Empire
products. They also manufactured a bearing lubricant for router bits,
and a lubricant for router bit and saw cutting edges. The original
TopCote products were dispensed from a plastic pump bottle. It went on
and looked the same as it does now. Empire TopSaver and their other
products are again/also dispensed from a plastic pump bottle.

I've only used TopCoat, I cleaned off all my tops with lacquer thinner,
and spayed it on about 6 months ago... still slick, and no rust. Thing
is, with absolutely nothing on my tops, it takes about a year for my tops
to turn a rusty color. My old shop that would happen in hours, and with
wax about a month or less. The 3M stuff lasted about a year of heavy
(hobbyist, not commercial) use in the nastiest of conditions. I still
have some in the can but the aerosol went south. If the TopCoat is half
as good, I'll be happy.

I originally started using the TopCote back in the 80's before it was sold
to Bostitch. I kinda swap off between Empire Top Saver and TopCote. The
Empire Top Saver will clean the top very nicely, it will get rid of the rust
and most of the patina stains. It also retards the formation of rust. My
top never had any rust so to speak while using TopCote but it would get that
dark color. I tried TopSaver with a 3M Scotch Brite pad setting under my
ROS and spent about 2 or 3 minutes letting the ROS scrub in the product and
wiped it clean afterwards. That 7 year old top looked almost new again.

Oddly, and you have to try it to believe it, put a small drop of "Titebond
or like" glue on a tarnished spot on your cast iron top, let it dry and pop
the dried glue off with your finger nail. The iron will be silvery in color
once again. I accidentally discovered this several years ago when gluing up
a project on top of the saw. Several drops fell on the surface and I was
quite surprised when I cleaned the dry glue off.