I'm working on putting sliding doors on a work bench. I'll probably use
masonite (hardboard) for the doors, and just make a couple grooves in a top
and bottom rail for the doors to slide in. The doors will be a relatively
good size, 40" tall by about 48" wide.

It looks like it's just a matter of cutting grooves, cutting the masonite
to size, and drilling a few finger holes, right? Is there anything special
I should do?

Are the panels going to be too heavy to just let them slide?

Puckdropper
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"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
and bottom rail for the doors to slide in. The doors will be a relatively
good size, 40" tall by about 48" wide.

Are the panels going to be too heavy to just let them slide?

I've used sliding hardboard before. I suggest that they'd slide better if
you put them in plastic track.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I'm working on putting sliding doors on a work bench. I'll probably use
masonite (hardboard) for the doors, and just make a couple grooves in a
top
and bottom rail for the doors to slide in. The doors will be a relatively
good size, 40" tall by about 48" wide.

It looks like it's just a matter of cutting grooves, cutting the masonite
to size, and drilling a few finger holes, right? Is there anything
special
I should do?

Are the panels going to be too heavy to just let them slide?

You can do that. Maybe put grooves into something harder than plywood.

Or just buy some kind of track for it to run in. I know that it is quite
common for glass. Glass companies probably have this in stock. Or see what
is at a wood workers store.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...oor%20trac ks

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...oor%20trac ks

Puckdropper wrote:
I'm working on putting sliding doors on a work bench. I'll probably
use masonite (hardboard) for the doors, and just make a couple
grooves in a top and bottom rail for the doors to slide in. The
doors will be a relatively good size, 40" tall by about 48" wide.

It looks like it's just a matter of cutting grooves, cutting the
masonite to size, and drilling a few finger holes, right? Is there
anything special I should do?

Are the panels going to be too heavy to just let them slide?

Puckdropper

Are you saying that *each* door is to be 40" x 48"? In that case, yes, I
think they would be too heavy to slide without MUCH effort. Even in a
plastic track. Too flimsy too.

OTOH, if the 40x48 represents two doors, you might get away with it if you
wax the door edges and grooves/track. Put the finger holes or pulls low so
that you get "push" rather than "tip". If necessary, you could reduce
friction by slightly beveling the leading 1/3 of the bottom edge so it
doesn't contact the groove.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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"dadiOH" wrote in message
Are you saying that *each* door is to be 40" x 48"? In that case, yes, I
think they would be too heavy to slide without MUCH effort. Even in a
plastic track. Too flimsy too.

Sorry, I don't agree. I've used it frequently in the past in a plastic
track. It's hardboard, usually in various thicknesses from 1/8" to 1/4".
With the sizes he wants to use the weight is mostly negligible even in a
plastic sliding track. Nevertheless, there's metal track out there that also
works fine.

The only problem I can see he might encounter is it bending or flexing due
to sheer height and *that* may cause problems in any kind of track.

In article ,
"Upscale" wrote:

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
and bottom rail for the doors to slide in. The doors will be a relatively
good size, 40" tall by about 48" wide.

Are the panels going to be too heavy to just let them slide?

I've used sliding hardboard before. I suggest that they'd slide better if
you put them in plastic track.

Wax - good old fashioned wax is your friend. Plastic, wood or metal
track does not matter.

good old fashioned wax blocks rubbed in the track and bottom of the
drawer.

Doug

Wax - good old fashioned wax is your friend. Plastic, wood or metal
track does not matter.

good old fashioned wax blocks rubbed in the track and bottom of the
drawer.

Doug

Wax is great, except that it attracts and holds saw dust, which keeps
you from being able to blow-out the dust with an air nozzle.
I've found that a finely sanded/smooth surface is all you need to get
Masonite sliding against wood. If the Masonite isn't "fuzzy" on the
edges, and the grooves are sanded very smooth, it's like running in
plastic.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Doug Houseman wrote in
:


Wax - good old fashioned wax is your friend. Plastic, wood or metal
track does not matter.

good old fashioned wax blocks rubbed in the track and bottom of the
drawer.

Doug

Paste wax for lubrication was my plan the whole time. Should I be looking
for something else, though?

Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as some
writers are incorrigible.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"dadiOH" wrote in message
Are you saying that *each* door is to be 40" x 48"? In that case,
yes, I think they would be too heavy to slide without MUCH effort.
Even in a plastic track. Too flimsy too.

Sorry, I don't agree. I've used it frequently in the past in a plastic
track. It's hardboard, usually in various thicknesses from 1/8" to
1/4". With the sizes he wants to use the weight is mostly negligible
even in a plastic sliding track. Nevertheless, there's metal track out
there that also works fine.

The only problem I can see he might encounter is it bending or flexing
due to sheer height and *that* may cause problems in any kind of
track.



If need be, I could drop the height down to ~20" or so, and make two sets
of panels where there would only be one. 40" in height could be a bit
much considering the flexibility of the hardboard.

I'm not committed to the materials, other than wanting something fairly
smooth and paintable.

Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
some writers are incorrigible.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

I have 36x40 inch doors on a cabinet in my shop and used roller skate
ball bearings in the track of aluminum I bought at the borg.
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/1974Tryke

On 09 Feb 2009 18:35:33 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Doug Houseman wrote in
:


Wax - good old fashioned wax is your friend. Plastic, wood or metal
track does not matter.

good old fashioned wax blocks rubbed in the track and bottom of the
drawer.

Doug

Paste wax for lubrication was my plan the whole time. Should I be looking
for something else, though?

Puckdropper

....somebody already mentioned to check glass hardware, I've done a few
glass door cabs and found a rail/wheel system that runs on tracks that
is the bomb and would work with 1/4 hardboard. Kind've pricey, but
trick. This is the outfit I deal with:

http://webservices.catalog-on-demand.../EBBradMaster/

(find sliding door hardware and go to aluminum track assembly). I
dunno, though...you'd have to keep the tracks clean. Considering the
size of the doors I see some binding if they bear completely on the
sliding surface, if not right away down the road as things gum-up.
Hey, you can always try the wax and then go to the tracks...I did some
cabs for a hotel out here and used the Fibre Track, I believe you need
1/2" or bigger doors for that, though, but it was sweet...

cg