[Larry C]

Hello,

I am making a few cribbage boards. I am drawing the "skunk" lines on the
board My first try I did it with a fine point sharpie. I let the sharpie
dry for about an hour. When I put on the first coat of spray poly (aerosol
can, oil based ) the sharpie bled all over the place. Which surprised me
because if the kids touch anything with those markers it is there forever.

I sanded it all off and tried to draw the lines after a coat of poly but the
marker didn't work well.

Do I need to go buy a paint marker or use a different method with the poly.
Please don't say paint with a fine brush.

Thanks

Larry C

[phorbin]

In article ,
says...

"Larry C" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I am making a few cribbage boards. I am drawing the "skunk" lines on the
board My first try I did it with a fine point sharpie. I let the sharpie
dry for about an hour. When I put on the first coat of spray poly
(aerosol can, oil based ) the sharpie bled all over the place. Which
surprised me because if the kids touch anything with those markers it is
there forever.

I sanded it all off and tried to draw the lines after a coat of poly but
the marker didn't work well.

Do I need to go buy a paint marker or use a different method with the
poly. Please don't say paint with a fine brush.

Thanks

Larry C

BTW The wood I used this time was Ash. The next couple I make I hope to
use white oak. If that matters


Pigma marker pens might work.

http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/Pen-Archival

I don't know how oil based finish would work with them. My wife has used
them with good result in watercolours so if they work on wood then maybe
water based finish will serve..

I discovered them when they first came out and used them all the time
for awhile. They may have changed the tip material since but I found
that the tips soon wore away on any paper that had a real tooth to it.

On oak, I can see a problem with jitter if you don't fill the pores and
get a smooth surface first.

If I had to do this for more than a few boards, I'd probably buy/make
the silk-screen equipment I've back-burnered for too long, relearn a few
forgotten skills and do a photo silk screen.

[CW[_2_]]

A draftsmans ruling pen (the old type with adjustable nib) lays down perfect
lines with paint. Just thin the paint to the consistency of ink, fill the
pen (use a dropper, don't dip it) and draw lines.

"Larry C" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I am making a few cribbage boards. I am drawing the "skunk" lines on the
board My first try I did it with a fine point sharpie. I let the sharpie
dry for about an hour. When I put on the first coat of spray poly
(aerosol
can, oil based ) the sharpie bled all over the place. Which surprised me
because if the kids touch anything with those markers it is there forever.

I sanded it all off and tried to draw the lines after a coat of poly but
the
marker didn't work well.

Do I need to go buy a paint marker or use a different method with the
poly.
Please don't say paint with a fine brush.

Thanks

Larry C

[dan cordes]

Hi Larry,

I use the same template. I just tape it in place with masking tape. And
use the self centering drill bit. That works fine for me. Glad to help. Good
luck.

Dan
"Larry C" wrote in message
...

"dan cordes" wrote in message
...
Hi Larry,

When I make my cribbage boards, I use a fine tip paint pen for the
lines. You can get the pens at the hobby stores. I've used the pens on
many types of wood. I've never had any runs when finishing with poly.

Dan

"Larry C" wrote in message
...

"Larry C" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I am making a few cribbage boards. I am drawing the "skunk" lines on
the board My first try I did it with a fine point sharpie. I let the
sharpie dry for about an hour. When I put on the first coat of spray
poly (aerosol can, oil based ) the sharpie bled all over the place.
Which surprised me because if the kids touch anything with those
markers it is there forever.

I sanded it all off and tried to draw the lines after a coat of poly
but the marker didn't work well.

Do I need to go buy a paint marker or use a different method with the
poly. Please don't say paint with a fine brush.

Thanks

Larry C

BTW The wood I used this time was Ash. The next couple I make I hope
to use white oak. If that matters



Dan

Can I ask how you drill the holes? I used a template from Rockler. It
worked OK but it was a a pain to keep from moving during the process.

Thanks for the advice about the pain pens

Larry C

[mac davis[_5_]]

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 22:41:04 GMT, "Larry C" wrote:

Have access to a woodburning setup, Larry?

I made toys for the grandkids and ran into the same problem... The Danish Oil I
was using lifted and faded my lines..

I ended up scoring the lines with a ruler and awl and then my wife used her
pyrography (what they call an expensive woodburning setup) pen to burn the lines
in..

Hello,

I am making a few cribbage boards. I am drawing the "skunk" lines on the
board My first try I did it with a fine point sharpie. I let the sharpie
dry for about an hour. When I put on the first coat of spray poly (aerosol
can, oil based ) the sharpie bled all over the place. Which surprised me
because if the kids touch anything with those markers it is there forever.

I sanded it all off and tried to draw the lines after a coat of poly but the
marker didn't work well.

Do I need to go buy a paint marker or use a different method with the poly.
Please don't say paint with a fine brush.

Thanks

Larry C


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

[[email protected]]

On Feb 6, 12:45*pm, mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 22:41:04 GMT, "Larry C" wrote:

Have access to a woodburning setup, Larry?

If you have a woodburning pen get a transfer tip (about a 1/2" dia.
disk). Make up a pattern you like and mirror image it with any
graphics program. Tape it to the wood, printed side down. Rub the
back of the page with the transfer tip and the ink transfers to the
wood. I've used shellac, poly, boiled linseed oil and lacquer over it
and haven't had one bleed yet. If you have a good enough graphics
program you can even print your drilling pattern at the same time.

A few tips:
Practice practice practice... it takes time to get it right
Drafting vellum seems to work best at giving up the ink to the wood
A little pressure helps
The smoother the wood the better the transfer (I go to 320 grit)
You can transfer darn near anything you can get on paper mirror imaged
(lines, drill pattern, text, signature, etc)
Daryl