Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw. I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
BORG. It also slickens the surface a bit making it a bit easier feed
surface.
Allen
Catonsville, MD

In article , Eric Johnson
wrote:

Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

In article , "Eric Johnson" wrote:
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

Bad Idea.

Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
fisheye when you apply finish.

Non-silicone-bearing paste waxes include:
* Johnson's Paste Wax
* Minwax Paste Finishing Wax
* Butcher's

Other products that may be more effective at preventing rust are Boeshield,
T9, and TopCote.

This has been discussed _to_death_ in this newsgroup. Doesn't _anybody_ use
Google anymore?

"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html







--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

I use bees wax.....works well. It is also great for wooden utensils and
waterproofing boots.
dave
"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.

I've always had great success with paraffin.

"Allen Epps" wrote in message
...

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
BORG. It also slickens the surface a bit making it a bit easier feed
surface.
Allen
Catonsville, MD

In article , Eric Johnson
wrote:

Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table
saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help
when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one
time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as
the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed
WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last
couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

Would this stuff be good?

Top Saver System
$21.00
TopSaver- The all in one surface treatment for table top's. It is a Rust
Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces, it is
unlike anything ever made. TopsaverT completely removes rust and corrosion
from the pores of the metal surface. It reduces sliding friction, eliminates
binding and surface hang-ups on tabletops, it also repels moisture and seals
the surface pores against rust and corrosion.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html



"Sweet Sawdust" wrote in message
...

"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the
wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the
car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.

One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and preventatives.
The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of T-9
remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for them.
The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.

Bob


"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

Sweet Sawdust responds:

"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.

That first line had me going.

I'm waiting until it warms up a tad to spread a couple coats of shellac on my
cast iron tables. It's here, I've got plenty of rags, but it is also about 13
degrees F. which ain't the best set-up for finishing.

Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/m.../business.html

the shellac I use is rated to zero degrees, Charlie. Zinnser.

dave

Charlie Self wrote:
Sweet Sawdust responds:


"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...

Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.


automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.


That first line had me going.

I'm waiting until it warms up a tad to spread a couple coats of shellac on my
cast iron tables. It's here, I've got plenty of rags, but it is also about 13
degrees F. which ain't the best set-up for finishing.

Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/m.../business.html

I have just started using the TopSaver System. I started with two of my planes and
will then treat the TS top and drill press table.
Hoyt

BeeFarmer wrote:

Would this stuff be good?

Top Saver System
$21.00
TopSaver- The all in one surface treatment for table top's. It is a Rust
Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces, it is
unlike anything ever made. TopsaverT completely removes rust and corrosion
from the pores of the metal surface. It reduces sliding friction, eliminates
binding and surface hang-ups on tabletops, it also repels moisture and seals
the surface pores against rust and corrosion.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

"Sweet Sawdust" wrote in message
...

"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the
wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the
car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.

Bob Schmall wrote:
One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and preventatives.
The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of T-9
remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for them.
The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.

Bob

It's the latest issue of WOOD.

--
Donnie Vazquez
Sunderland, MD
remove NoSpam from address to reply

Don't have any shellac so I used some Minwax Oil finish (oil and
varnish) on my table top. Some seeped into the steel. Be interesting
tio see how long it will work.


On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 15:48:47 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

the shellac I use is rated to zero degrees, Charlie. Zinnser.

dave

Charlie Self wrote:
Sweet Sawdust responds:


"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...

Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.


automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.


That first line had me going.

I'm waiting until it warms up a tad to spread a couple coats of shellac on my
cast iron tables. It's here, I've got plenty of rags, but it is also about 13
degrees F. which ain't the best set-up for finishing.

Charlie Self
"All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is
sure."
Mark Twain
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/m.../business.html

I just wrote that I put an oil-varnish mix on my tablesaw and some
will not like that idea.. When I was farming,it was well known that a
diesel tractor always looked filthy where you poured the diesel in.
BUT, when you washed it away, the metal under it was always perfectly
clean and always free of rust. I am told that diesel is full of
parafin which is why it won't work when it gets too cold- the parafin
in it "solidifies". Steel is porous and will absorb liquids and just
plain old cheap diesel fuel is another method to consider although it
is probably too simple for most. Worked in a factory one time where
they were too cheap to buy paint so we wiped everything down with
diesel. Never had any rust there and there was water everywhere.

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 11:33:07 -0500, Donnie Vazquez
wrote:

Bob Schmall wrote:
One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and preventatives.
The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of T-9
remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for them.
The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.

Bob

It's the latest issue of WOOD.

In article , "TexasFireGuy" wrote:
I've always had great success with paraffin.

"Allen Epps" wrote in message
.. .

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
BORG.

Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and *none*
of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep saying
that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

After reading posts about HDs carrying Seal Coat and local not
carrying I E-mail HD and their response was roughly "We'LL decide what
YOU buy in YOUR store as YOUR store will NOT carry it". Not quite
that bad but my impression of their mentality. Same with national
grocery chain, I asked a clerk about a product and she led me to the
spot where it used to be then checked with Mgr. "That item is no
longer authorized for this store" was his response. Found another
chain grocery where asking for a product get 85% shelf stock! Guess
where my money is spent! New hardware store recently opened and they
now carry Seal Coat, thankfully.

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 17:14:11 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and *none*
of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep saying
that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

None found in Seattle yet either. I also have not been able to find the
white Scotch Brites that was suggested to me there or anywhere else.

The plan that was recommended to me was:

1. Green Scotch Brite w/WD40
2. White Scotch Brite w/WD40
3. #0000 Steel Wool w/WD40
4. Wet/Dry Sandpaper w/WD40 (600, 800, then 1000-grit)
5. Paste Wax

If the wings are webbed, instead of solid, just do the first step on them.

Haven't tried it yet, but I will most likely only do steps 1, 3, and 5 as I
would like to actually be able to use the damned thing someday before I
retire.



codepath




"Doug Miller" wrote in message
news
In article , "TexasFireGuy"
wrote:
I've always had great success with paraffin.

"Allen Epps" wrote in message
.. .

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
BORG.

Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and
*none*
of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep saying
that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?

TopSaver won the Wood magazine comparison for the best all-in-one
remover/preventative product.

But, by far, the best performance was the Boeshield Rust Free (remover) and
Boeshield T-9 (preventative). That T-9 beat the living crap out of every
other product in the test.

IIRC, the total price for the Boeshield combo was even cheaper per ounce
than the TopSaver kit.

I already have the WD40 and paste wax so I will go that route and see how it
works here in the rainy Seattle area first. But, if it ends up a constant
struggle, it's time for Boeshield.


codepath




"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Would this stuff be good?

Top Saver System
$21.00
TopSaver- The all in one surface treatment for table top's. It is a Rust
Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces, it is
unlike anything ever made. TopsaverT completely removes rust and corrosion
from the pores of the metal surface. It reduces sliding friction,
eliminates
binding and surface hang-ups on tabletops, it also repels moisture and
seals
the surface pores against rust and corrosion.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html



"Sweet Sawdust" wrote in message
...

"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice
smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the
wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the
car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.

BeeFarmer--according to an article describing the testing of various
products to remove rust and protect cast iron against rust in Wood
Magazine's recent issue, the best rust preventer was "Boeshield T-9" and for
cleaning the rust off first, they recommended "Boeshield Rust-Free" and
"Empire TopSaver". Link to Boeshield below. Good luck

Michael S.

http://www.boeshield.com/

----------------------------------------------------
"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping
http://www.Bee-Keepers.com
http://www.homestead.com/BeeKeepers/Opening.html

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:33:17 -0500, "BeeFarmer"
wrote:

Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw. I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

You don't use beeswax on your tablessaw? I would, only that what I've
seen is a bit pricey. I use Johnsons Paste wax instead. If you
want moisture moving away from your saw, place a "piano keeper" in the
cabinet. This is a low-wattage heater used inside pianos to keep
moisture out of them.

Codepath,

Where is your shop located in Seattle? I mean, is it in a garage,
out-building, or basement? Mine's in my heated basement in the North end -
LFP to be specific. I'm just wondering how much of a rust problem you've
seen as I haven't seen much, if any, in my shop ... not that I've done
anything spectacular to prevent it, or anything at all for that matter. :-)

--Marc Hudson
----------------------------------------------------------------------------


"codepath" wrote in message
...
None found in Seattle yet either. I also have not been able to find the
white Scotch Brites that was suggested to me there or anywhere else.

The plan that was recommended to me was:

1. Green Scotch Brite w/WD40
2. White Scotch Brite w/WD40
3. #0000 Steel Wool w/WD40
4. Wet/Dry Sandpaper w/WD40 (600, 800, then 1000-grit)
5. Paste Wax

If the wings are webbed, instead of solid, just do the first step on them.

Haven't tried it yet, but I will most likely only do steps 1, 3, and 5 as
I
would like to actually be able to use the damned thing someday before I
retire.



codepath




"Doug Miller" wrote in message
news
In article , "TexasFireGuy"
wrote:
I've always had great success with paraffin.

"Allen Epps" wrote in message
.. .

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste wax
to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your local
BORG.

Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and
*none*
of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep
saying
that they do, post a stock number for JPW at HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?

snip
Bad Idea.

Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
fisheye when you apply finish.
snip

Hence my use of the word "WAX" not polish... there is a difference.

Bellevue.

And I do not think that it qualifies as a "shop" per se. In fact, I think
that it would be an embarrassment to the word. But, I am working on it.

Two car garage (well my half of it anyway). Exposed insulation (no
sheetrock). Gull-wing-type doors (as opposed to tambour/roll-top) have huge
gaps around them, can see daylight around edges. Single pane window (swings
out like a door). Not heated. During heavy rain (and expect this to happen
any moment after yesterdays downpour), water sweats through concrete
exterior wall. Not to mention wife parking her wet car in there. The nerve!

My tools do not get wet directly and I have never seen any condensation on
them, but the amount of water vapor must be fairly high as I started seeing
oranging on the sides of the webbed CI wings. Almost imperceptible but
definitely there and I have only had the thing since Xmas and it was
spotless then. Not a good sign of things to come.

Not much I can do about any of these issues as I will be a dad again this
Wednesday and funds for all projects are on indefinite hold. But, I have
some green Scotch Brites, #0000, WD40, and paste wax. If I can steal even an
hour this weekend, I'll give a very quick once-over and slap some wax on it
to at least stop the progression long enough for things to settle down a
bit.


codepath




"Marc Hudson" wrote in message
...
Codepath,

Where is your shop located in Seattle? I mean, is it in a garage,
out-building, or basement? Mine's in my heated basement in the North
end -
LFP to be specific. I'm just wondering how much of a rust problem you've
seen as I haven't seen much, if any, in my shop ... not that I've done
anything spectacular to prevent it, or anything at all for that matter.
:-)

--Marc Hudson
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
--


"codepath" wrote in message
...
None found in Seattle yet either. I also have not been able to find the
white Scotch Brites that was suggested to me there or anywhere else.

The plan that was recommended to me was:

1. Green Scotch Brite w/WD40
2. White Scotch Brite w/WD40
3. #0000 Steel Wool w/WD40
4. Wet/Dry Sandpaper w/WD40 (600, 800, then 1000-grit)
5. Paste Wax

If the wings are webbed, instead of solid, just do the first step on
them.

Haven't tried it yet, but I will most likely only do steps 1, 3, and 5
as
I
would like to actually be able to use the damned thing someday before I
retire.



codepath




"Doug Miller" wrote in message
news
In article , "TexasFireGuy"
wrote:
I've always had great success with paraffin.

"Allen Epps" wrote in message
.. .

I'll jump in before the hoard and say CAREFUL! Most car wax
contains
silcon that will be incompatable with some finishes. Use a paste
wax
to
cover the tablesaw (and any other bare metal surfaces that wood
contacts). I generally use Johnsons Paste Wax available at your
local
BORG.

Ya know, I keep hearing this, that JPW is available at the BORG -- and
*none*
of the BORGs in Indianapolis carry it. Can any of you guys who keep
saying
that they do, post a stock number for JPW at
HD/Lowe's/Menards/whatever?

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50
for
Miss America?

In article , "Eric Johnson" wrote:
snip
Bad Idea.

Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
fisheye when you apply finish.
snip

Hence my use of the word "WAX" not polish... there is a difference.


Of course there's a difference. But the difference is not relevant to this
discussion, because *neither one* should be used in a wood shop.

Car *wax* contains silicone, and should *not* be used on woodworking
equipment, because the silicone in the wax interferes with many types of wood
finishes.

Car *polish* contains silicone *and* abrasives, and likewise should not be
used on woodworking equipment, for reasons that I hope are obvious.



--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

I tried the Boeshield but didn't care for it much. It wasn't slippery at
all. I just use TopCote now. Haven't had any rust problems so far and it
is nice and slick. Easy and quick to apply too so I do it more often.
Maybe that helps too.

"Bob Schmall" wrote in message
...
One of the magazines just ran a comparo of rust removers and
preventatives.
The clear winner--and it was way out in front--is the Boeshield pair of
T-9
remover and their rust preventative. I use them both and can vouch for
them.
The usual disclaimer--no connection, etc.

Bob

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:33:17 -0500, "BeeFarmer"
wrote:

Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw. I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.


I've gone to using dewaxed shellac on my cast iron and it works great.


Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

LMAO your histerical!
http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm

That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly 20
years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my best
to avoid name brand promotion.

END

Tom Watson wrote:
I've gone to using dewaxed shellac on my cast iron and it works great.


I find living in an area near devoid of hoomidity works
awful good. On the other hand, I'm sitting here with my
balls frozen together.

UA100

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 20:40:51 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , "Eric Johnson" wrote:
snip
Bad Idea.

Don't use car wax on woodworking equipment. The silicone in it will cause
fisheye when you apply finish.
snip

Hence my use of the word "WAX" not polish... there is a difference.


Of course there's a difference. But the difference is not relevant to this
discussion, because *neither one* should be used in a wood shop.

Car *wax* contains silicone, and should *not* be used on woodworking
equipment, because the silicone in the wax interferes with many types of wood
finishes.

Car *polish* contains silicone *and* abrasives, and likewise should not be
used on woodworking equipment, for reasons that I hope are obvious.




Doug-

you're overstating the case here.

SOME car finishing products contains silicone. not all do, and the
ones that don't are formulated a bit stiffer and harder than furniture
and floor waxes, which is actually a good thing for saw tops.
Bridger

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 01:07:28 GMT, Unisaw A100
wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:
I've gone to using dewaxed shellac on my cast iron and it works great.


I find living in an area near devoid of hoomidity works
awful good. On the other hand, I'm sitting here with my
balls frozen together.

UA100



a little wax might help that ; ^ )

In article , "Eric Johnson" wrote:

LMAO your histerical!
http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm

That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't. Best
to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.

I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly 20
years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my best
to avoid name brand promotion.

Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking why
his finish fisheyed.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

"BeeFarmer" wrote in message
...
Just wanted to pop in here and ask a question about rust on my table saw.
I
have a shop that I don't heat unless I am in there and using it. I
figure
that the heat I build up while I am in there probably doesn't help when I
leave at the end of the day and it gets down to freezing. I at one time
would cover the saw with a tarp but now think this might not help as the
heat is trapped and causing condensation. So for now I have sprayed WD40
all over in hopes that it doesn't get too rusty. FYI for the last couple
of years in spring I have to use steel wool and WD40 to clean off the
surface rust...

Any suggestions to keep the rust of is appreciated.

--

OhioBeeFarmer
Getting kids involved in Beekeeping

Hi,
Had an uncle that did that, favorite candy as a kid was chewing on the the
part of the comb that he cut off before he put the frames in the extractor,
grew up thinking all candy was supposed to have bee parts in it. :-Q
Being cheap, I keep a plastic bottle half full of paint thinner(mineral
spirits) in which I've dissolved a chunk of parrifin, squirt some on a rag
and wipe the table down, let dry and buff lightly, if you're not going to
use it for awhile just apply a heavy coat and let dry, don't buff till
you're ready to use it. works for me.


--
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Jerry

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:20:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , "Eric Johnson" wrote:

LMAO your histerical!
http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm

That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't. Best
to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.

I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly 20
years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my best
to avoid name brand promotion.

Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking why
his finish fisheyed.



when buying paste wax a good clue is to look for the word "carnauba".
as far as I know there are no products on the market that contain both
silicone and carnauba.
Bridger

Unisaw A100 wrote:
I find living in an area near devoid of hoomidity works
awful good. On the other hand, I'm sitting here with my
balls frozen together.

UA100

A Men! Thats one of the great things about NM compared to PA ( or WS ?
) :-)
We do have to water the flower beds in the summer and even ocaisonally
in the
winter, but NO rust and lumber stored outside has a moisture content of
about
nothing. :-) it picks up moisture when you bring it inside from your
breath. :-)
...lew...

Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"

Why can't it contain silicon?


"Bridger" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:20:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , "Eric
Johnson" wrote:

LMAO your histerical!
http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm

That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't.
Best
to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.

I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly
20
years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my
best
to avoid name brand promotion.

Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking
why
his finish fisheyed.



when buying paste wax a good clue is to look for the word "carnauba".
as far as I know there are no products on the market that contain both
silicone and carnauba.
Bridger

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 19:04:29 -0500, "Dave"
wrote:

Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"

No idea.

Why can't it contain silicon?

Silicon is sand. Not a problem.

Silicon_e_ is the bad stuff. This stuff is Satan's Anal Lubricant.
Does a number on almost any finish. Try searching for "fish eye" and
"m/(jesus built my )?hotrod/".

I won' be without silicone grease, for I live in a damp climate and
have sparkplugs. But the damned stuff only lives in the red car-fixing
toolbox and never goes into the workshop itself.

In article , "Dave" wrote:
Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"

Not according to Minwax. I phoned them last year and asked. They said there
isn't, and also mailed a copy of the MSDS -- which makes no mention of it.

Why can't it contain silicon?

SiliconE with an E. Causes "fisheye" in some wood finishes.


"Bridger" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 03:20:01 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , "Eric
Johnson" wrote:

LMAO your histerical!
http://www.meguiars.com.au/Get_Schooled38.htm

That is if your implying all car wax has silicone.

No, not all. But some do -- and you can't tell which do, and which don't.
Best
to stick with waxes that are *known* to be silicone-free.

I only pursued this from personal experience, been using it for nearly
20
years with no ill affects. Never said it was the only way and I did my
best
to avoid name brand promotion.

Guess you've been lucky so far. Some other poor schlub who follows your
misguided advice might not be so lucky. And then he'll post here, asking
why
his finish fisheyed.



when buying paste wax a good clue is to look for the word "carnauba".
as far as I know there are no products on the market that contain both
silicone and carnauba.
Bridger



--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 00:48:34 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 19:04:29 -0500, "Dave"
wrote:

Does anyone know if Minwax Paste Finishing Wax is "silicon free"

No idea.

Why can't it contain silicon?

Silicon is sand. Not a problem.

sand is silicon dioxide.
silicon is a weird ultralightweight metal.
silicone is a polymer of silicon and oxygen.


Silicon_e_ is the bad stuff. This stuff is Satan's Anal Lubricant.
Does a number on almost any finish. Try searching for "fish eye" and
"m/(jesus built my )?hotrod/".

I won' be without silicone grease, for I live in a damp climate and
have sparkplugs. But the damned stuff only lives in the red car-fixing
toolbox and never goes into the workshop itself.

I won't have it around in any form beyond the occasional silicone
caulk.
Bridger

I use Johnson's paste wax that I modify a bit by adding about 1/3
carnauba flakes in to raise the carnauba level. Makes for a harder
wax finish and a better product for my cast iron surfaces. You can
buy 1pound bags of flaked carnauba from Highland Hardware

John

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:29:53 -0600, "Sweet Sawdust"
wrote:


"Eric Johnson" wrote in message
...
Automotive car wax will protect from rust and I think makes the stock
feeding considerably smoother.

automotive car wax works fine as a rust inhibitor and leaves a nice smooth
coating that allows wood to slide real easy, I think the silicone in the wax
makes it slicker then the other waxes. The silicone also coats the wood
being sawn and helps protect it from things such as wood finishes and
stains. I use Johnson's paste floor wax myself, almost as slick as the car
wax and no silicone to mess up a finish.