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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
Dining room floor is red oak with polyurethane finish. A plastic bag
with some dishes sat in one place for a couple of weeks - when I removed it there was a dark blue/green/black stain. The stain is in the wood. Tried scraping, but it apparently goes deeper than I'd prefer to scrape. Used a hot oxalic acid solution on it a couple of times, but doesn't make much difference. I tried it after the wood was scraped, so it very definitely penetrated. It looks like an iron stain, but the oxalic acid usually bleaches those very well. All I can think of is that maybe one of the dogs urinated on the bag while it was sitting there, but that's just a guess. Has anyone found that the two-part bleaches, or anything else, work when oxalic acid won't? John Martin |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
"John Martin" wrote in message
... Dining room floor is red oak with polyurethane finish. A plastic bag with some dishes sat in one place for a couple of weeks - when I removed it there was a dark blue/green/black stain. The stain is in the wood. Tried scraping, but it apparently goes deeper than I'd prefer to scrape. Used a hot oxalic acid solution on it a couple of times, but doesn't make much difference. I tried it after the wood was scraped, so it very definitely penetrated. It looks like an iron stain, but the oxalic acid usually bleaches those very well. All I can think of is that maybe one of the dogs urinated on the bag while it was sitting there, but that's just a guess. Has anyone found that the two-part bleaches, or anything else, work when oxalic acid won't? John Martin Hello, I would take another shot at Oxalic Acid. It sounds as though you are going to have to strip the finish off of the stain before going at it again. Make sure the Oxalic Acid solution is saturated and let it sit until dry. You will have to wipe up the resulting dried crystals with a damp cloth. Do NOT brush it up. It will have you sneezing your brains out if you sweep it. Also, do not let the dog anywhere near the spot when it is being treated. Oxalic Acid is quite toxic. If you can manage it, try to have sunlight hit the spot while it is being treated with Oxalic Acid. The sunlight will help bleach the stain. I would try hypochlorite bleach if the second treatment with Oxalic Acid did not work. I have used swimming pool hypochlorite instead of "Clorox" since you can make it up to be a stronger solution. I would move onto the two-part wood bleach, caustic and Hydrogen Peroxide, as a last resort. Once you get the stain out, I bet you will have to recolor the area and then spot finish it. This will not be fun. Good Luck. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
On Feb 3, 3:39*pm, "Baron" wrote:
"John Martin" wrote in message ... Dining room floor is red oak with polyurethane finish. *A plastic bag with some dishes sat in one place for a couple of weeks - when I removed it there was a dark blue/green/black stain. The stain is in the wood. *Tried scraping, but it apparently goes deeper than I'd prefer to scrape. *Used a hot oxalic acid solution on it a couple of times, but doesn't make much difference. *I tried it after the wood was scraped, so it very definitely penetrated. It looks like an iron stain, but the oxalic acid usually bleaches those very well. *All I can think of is that maybe one of the dogs urinated on the bag while it was sitting there, but that's just a guess. Has anyone found that the two-part bleaches, or anything else, work when oxalic acid won't? John Martin Hello, * * I would take another shot at Oxalic Acid. *It sounds as though you are going to have to strip the finish off of the stain before going at it again. Make sure the Oxalic Acid solution is saturated and let it sit until dry. You will have to wipe up the resulting dried crystals with a damp cloth. *Do NOT brush it up. *It will have you sneezing your brains out if you sweep it. Also, do not let the dog anywhere near the spot when it is being treated. Oxalic Acid is quite toxic. * * If you can manage it, try to have sunlight hit the spot while it is being treated with Oxalic Acid. *The sunlight will help bleach the stain. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
On Feb 4, 11:11*am, John Martin wrote:
I scraped down through the finish before using the oxalic acid the first time. *Have used it probably three times, and each time it was a hot solution as saturated as it would get. That may be a problem; oxalic acid is unstable, it wants to stay cold (and of course, you have to handle it with glass or plastic, it gets poisoned in a steel or stainless container). It makes iron stains go away by dissolving the iron, but you want to rinse away the solution or the iron comes back again when the oxalate destabilizes. Rather than scraping, I'd use a chemical stripper. It's much easier, and finish penetration might defeat scraping. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
"whit3rd" wrote in message
... On Feb 4, 11:11 am, John Martin wrote: I scraped down through the finish before using the oxalic acid the first time. Have used it probably three times, and each time it was a hot solution as saturated as it would get. That may be a problem; oxalic acid is unstable, it wants to stay cold (and of course, you have to handle it with glass or plastic, it gets poisoned in a steel or stainless container). It makes iron stains go away by dissolving the iron, but you want to rinse away the solution or the iron comes back again when the oxalate destabilizes. Rather than scraping, I'd use a chemical stripper. It's much easier, and finish penetration might defeat scraping. Hello, Oxalic acid is not really unstable. It has a melting point just above the boiling point of Water so hot Water should not be a problem. A solution kept at ambient temperature works just fine after several years. I assume you mean that a hot solution "wants" to cool to ambient temperature. A hot solution will hold more of the acid than a cold solution. As the hot solution cools, the acid will crystallize. I have never found that to be a problem other than it leads to more dry crystals to wipe up after the iron has been chelated and the stain removed. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
Hi John,
Were you successful in removing the stain? If so, could you post how you removed it? Thanks. Andy Tenka On Jan 31, 10:52*pm, John Martin wrote: Dining room floor is red oak with polyurethane finish. *A plastic bag with some dishes sat in one place for a couple of weeks - when I removed it there was a dark blue/green/black stain. The stain is in the wood. *Tried scraping, but it apparently goes deeper than I'd prefer to scrape. *Used a hot oxalic acid solution on it a couple of times, but doesn't make much difference. *I tried it after the wood was scraped, so it very definitely penetrated. It looks like an iron stain, but the oxalic acid usually bleaches those very well. *All I can think of is that maybe one of the dogs urinated on the bag while it was sitting there, but that's just a guess. Has anyone found that the two-part bleaches, or anything else, work when oxalic acid won't? John Martin |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Removing stain from oak
On Feb 15, 1:09*pm, wrote:
Hi John, Were you successful in removing the stain? *If so, could you post how you removed it? *Thanks. Andy Tenka On Jan 31, 10:52*pm, John Martin wrote: Dining room floor is red oak with polyurethane finish. *A plastic bag with some dishes sat in one place for a couple of weeks - when I removed it there was a dark blue/green/black stain. The stain is in the wood. *Tried scraping, but it apparently goes deeper than I'd prefer to scrape. *Used a hot oxalic acid solution on it a couple of times, but doesn't make much difference. *I tried it after the wood was scraped, so it very definitely penetrated. It looks like an iron stain, but the oxalic acid usually bleaches those very well. *All I can think of is that maybe one of the dogs urinated on the bag while it was sitting there, but that's just a guess. Has anyone found that the two-part bleaches, or anything else, work when oxalic acid won't? John Martin- Hide quoted text - No success yet. First try was the oxalic acid. Hot, saturated solution. Scraped through the finish and well into the wood, and flooded on the oxalic acid solution several times. Some small improvement, but it may have been due more to the scraping and some dissolving of the stain than any chemical action. I've used oxalic acid many times before and know that it usually works quite well. Second try was with some 12% sodium hypochlorite (pool shocking solution). This is about twice as strong as regular laundry bleach. It may have lightened the stain very slightly, as with the oxalic acid, but if it did it was probably due more to dissolving the stain than to chemical action. I may try the opposite tack next - a reducing agent such as sodium hyposulfite. Maybe lye or hydrochloric acid. Or maybe a two-part wood bleach. Something has to work, and I really don't want to scrape any deeper than I already have. I'll post results when I have trhem. John Martin |
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