I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

On Jan 30, 8:24*am, N Hurst wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

DejaVoodoo wrote:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark
I have been making picture frames for my wife's paintings for years.
Some have been bigger than yours, some smaller. She paints on canvas
and uses 1" X 2' pine or fir for the stretchers. I have never made one
for a stained glass of that size.

One factor that will effect the strength is the width of the frame.
Mine are about 2" wide. The wider frames could receive 2 biscuits.

Once assembled, the only stress on the mitered joints will be the
downward pull in the plane of the frame. There will be no twisting, nor
stretching in the plane of the frame that would increase the angle of
the sides. I don't believe you will have a problem.

If on evaluation you are still concerned you could use biscuits for the
miter joints, and add a thin plywood gusset in each of the bottom
corners to increase the joint strength when it is in the hanging position

Do you know who was the first people to use "biscuits"

On Jan 30, 7:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

no. at 6sqft, it will be at least 10 lbs of glass + lead, so say
15lbs.

you can do a spline for a lot more strength.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts

If on evaluation you are still concerned you could use biscuits for the
miter joints, and add a thin plywood gusset in each of the bottom
corners to increase the joint strength when it is in the hanging position

Do you know who was the first people to use "biscuits"

What is a gusset? And I thought Norm invented biscuits as well as
brads...

On Jan 30, 9:31*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
On Jan 30, 8:24*am, N Hurst wrote:



On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. *Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

Depending on the species, you can get or make pocket hole plugs out of
a dowel rod of the same wood, and it should match up close enough that
it should be acceptable. Rockler carries cherry and walnut, and I'm
sure you could find some of the more exotic species... though the $$$
will probably add up pretty quickly.

-Nathan

You can cover up pocket holes even more easily with pre-made wood
plugs:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5756

On Jan 30, 9:31*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
On Jan 30, 8:24*am, N Hurst wrote:



On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. *Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

Do they have to be mitered corners? A rail-and-stile construction
would be stronger, especially if the tenons were deep and an inch up
from the bottom.
Maybe you could pin the tenons with some ebony pins and bevel
(flattened pyramids) the heads, leaving them slightly raised.
That kinda stuff looks very Greene & Greene.

On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

Even without contrasting wood this looks very nice when done.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip010511sn.html

On Jan 30, 9:53*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:31*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:





On Jan 30, 8:24*am, N Hurst wrote:

On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. *Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

Do they have to be mitered corners? A rail-and-stile construction
would be stronger, especially if the tenons were deep and an inch up
from the bottom.
Maybe you could pin the tenons with some ebony pins and bevel
(flattened pyramids) the heads, leaving them slightly raised.
That kinda stuff looks very Greene & Greene.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

Thanks
Mark

On Jan 30, 11:01*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:53*am, Robatoy wrote:



On Jan 30, 9:31*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

On Jan 30, 8:24*am, N Hurst wrote:

On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. *Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

Do they have to be mitered corners? A rail-and-stile construction
would be stronger, especially if the tenons were deep and an inch up
from the bottom.
Maybe you could pin the tenons with some ebony pins and bevel
(flattened pyramids) the heads, leaving them slightly raised.
That kinda stuff looks very Greene & Greene.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. *I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. *I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. *They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

Thanks
Mark

I agree that 2 biscuits, properly glued and clamped would make a very
tough joint.

On Jan 30, 9:05 am, DejaVoodoo wrote:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Do a spline. Make a jig that is like an upside-down U that rides your
table saw fence. One side has a tall face. This you can use as a
tenoning jig btw. To that face you attach a 45 degree block. This
allows you to first assemble the frame just with glue on the miters.
Then after that has cured you run the corners through on edge. Make
sure you use a blade that makes a square cut at the top like one of
the cutters from your dado set. Then you make a 1/8" spline with the
grain running across the joint. I attach a sacrificial strip of wood
on the edge of the 45 degree block every time I change the cut so
there is no tearout on the back side of the cut. You'll have to
supersize the jig to handle a frame this big but it will work.

-Kevin

DejaVoodoo wrote:
My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

My choice would be a joint whose name I can't conjure up (and I can't
seem to find any pictures of it) but it's a mortise and tenon joint
that's completely hidden and looks like a regular miter on the outside.
A blind mortise and tenon miter? The tenons (on the rails) take the
shape of a 90-degree right triangle and stop 1/4" shy of the end of the
board, and the stiles obviously have a triangular shaped mortise
recessed into a regular miter to receive them. I can find a picture of
it later on (when I get home from work)...

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

DejaVoodoo wrote in news:e77b9eba-6dcc-4c31-bcbd-
:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

A mitered bridle joint solves both the strength and appearance problems -
this is the only example I found on Google images:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8208

Good luck!

Elrond Hubbard wrote:
DejaVoodoo wrote in news:e77b9eba-6dcc-4c31-bcbd-
:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

A mitered bridle joint solves both the strength and appearance problems -
this is the only example I found on Google images:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8208

Good luck!

That's almost the joint I was talking about, but the tenon doesn't go
all the way through.

That's a *very* thick tenon, btw.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote in
:

Elrond Hubbard wrote:
DejaVoodoo wrote in
news:e77b9eba-6dcc-4c31-bcbd-
:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question
is: are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I
need something else?

A mitered bridle joint solves both the strength and appearance
problems - this is the only example I found on Google images:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/8208

Good luck!

That's almost the joint I was talking about, but the tenon doesn't go
all the way through.

That's a *very* thick tenon, btw.


I agree - I'd go for thirds.

DejaVoodoo writes:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

Splined miters. Lots of good long-grain to long-grain glue surface.

scott

DejaVoodoo wrote:
On Jan 30, 8:24 am, N Hurst wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:05 am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?
Thanks
Mark
I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having a
mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good thing,
considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark


There are plugs available for pocket screws that can virtually render
the pocket invisible.

Dave

DejaVoodoo wrote in
news:3b25cfdc-61c4-4a37-acd4-51cab8bd27d3
@v5g2000pre.googlegroups.c
om:

On Jan 30, 9:53*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:31*am, DejaVoodoo wrote:





On Jan 30, 8:24*am, N Hurst wrote:

On Jan 30, 9:05*am, DejaVoodoo
wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass
window. *Th
e
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a
window so that the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the
glass is maybe 2x3 feet an
d
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My
questio
n is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or
do I need something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits.
Having a mechanical means of keeping the joint together
would be a good thing, considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible
on both side so screws are not really acceptable. *Perhaps a
couple dowels though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

Do they have to be mitered corners? A rail-and-stile
construction would be stronger, especially if the tenons were
deep and an inch up from the bottom.
Maybe you could pin the tenons with some ebony pins and bevel
(flattened pyramids) the heads, leaving them slightly raised.
That kinda stuff looks very Greene & Greene.- Hide quoted text
-

- Show quoted text -

My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all
my face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong
joint), but they want miters.

How bout a half-lap miter? I drew one up:

http://www.areddy.net/misc/halflapmiter.gif

Looks like a miter, but extra strength, lots of gluing surface.

"DejaVoodoo" wrote in message
...
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

Mark, many years ago I used to do stained glass. A good stained glass
piece will have its own frame to hold every thing together. Your frame
should only be for decoration and should not have to add any support what so
ever. What you will need to do is "securely" attach the top of the frame
you build to the top of the stained glass frame. Technically you should not
need sides or a bottom to your frame.

Having said that if you want the stained glass to float inside your frame I
would biscuit the mitered corners and then drill 2 holes in the top and 2 in
the bottom into the corners. Counter sink and plug the holes.

On Jan 30, 1:43*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"DejaVoodoo" wrote in message

...

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. *The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. *Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. *My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

Mark, *many years ago I used to do stained glass. *A good stained glass
piece will have its own frame to hold every thing together. *Your frame
should only be for decoration and should not have to add any support what so
ever. *What you will need to do is "securely" attach the top of the frame
you build to the top of the stained glass frame. *Technically you should not
need sides or a bottom to your frame.


technically, you don't need the top. the glass and lead panel will sag
due to weight. without a bottom support, the panel will wind up on the
floor and the top of the lead or zinc glass frame will still be
attached to the top piece of the wood frame. the larger the panel, the
sooner this will occur.

Having said that if you want the stained glass to float inside your frame *I
would biscuit the mitered corners and then drill 2 holes in the top and 2 in
the bottom into the corners. *Counter sink and plug the holes.

regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts

On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 06:05:56 -0800 (PST), DejaVoodoo
wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

From an engineering standpoint there is no way to know this. Depends
on the frame, thickness, width, wood, size, weight, glue, biscuit
size, etc. Biscuits are not the strongest joint, but may or may not
be adequate for your application. Get extra strength using metal "L"
braces, which you could mortise.

A Butterfly Dovetail Inlay centered on the miter cut in a contrasting wood
also looks nice, and adds strength.

"DejaVoodoo" wrote in message
...
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

How bout a half-lap miter? *I drew one up:

http://www.areddy.net/misc/halflapmiter.gif

Looks like a miter, but extra strength, lots of gluing surface.- Hide quoted text -



NICE!!!! I just need to figure out how to cut it!

"charlie" wrote in message
...
On Jan 30, 1:43 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"DejaVoodoo" wrote in message

...

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

Mark, many years ago I used to do stained glass. A good stained glass
piece will have its own frame to hold every thing together. Your frame
should only be for decoration and should not have to add any support what
so
ever. What you will need to do is "securely" attach the top of the frame
you build to the top of the stained glass frame. Technically you should
not
need sides or a bottom to your frame.


technically, you don't need the top. the glass and lead panel will sag
due to weight. without a bottom support, the panel will wind up on the
floor and the top of the lead or zinc glass frame will still be
attached to the top piece of the wood frame. the larger the panel, the
sooner this will occur.


Well I wonder how long that takes to happen. I have 2 pieces in my home
that I made in the early 80's that are similar in size and they hang from a
chain on each corner, no sag yet.

That said, on larger panels we soldered a support as inconspicousely as
possable from the top of the frame to the bottom of the frame.

DejaVoodoo wrote in
.
com:


How bout a half-lap miter? *I drew one up:

http://www.areddy.net/misc/halflapmiter.gif

Looks like a miter, but extra strength, lots of gluing
surface.- Hide quo
ted text -



NICE!!!! I just need to figure out how to cut it!

Not difficult. The bottom piece is a simple half lap, then cut the
miter.

The top piece could be cut with a dado and the piece on a 45* miter.
I'd probably cut this piece first, then the other to fit.

Biscuits are for placement. Preventing lateral movement while
the glue dries. In some softer woods, the biscuit might be stronger.

Martin

DejaVoodoo wrote:
I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so that
the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3 feet and
pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My question is:
are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together or do I need
something else?

Thanks
Mark

"DejaVoodoo" wrote in message
My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

What about spline joints? Lots of strength and they wouldn't be visible.

Steve Turner wrote:
DejaVoodoo wrote:
My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

My choice would be a joint whose name I can't conjure up (and I can't
seem to find any pictures of it) but it's a mortise and tenon joint
that's completely hidden and looks like a regular miter on the outside.
A blind mortise and tenon miter? The tenons (on the rails) take the
shape of a 90-degree right triangle and stop 1/4" shy of the end of the
board, and the stiles obviously have a triangular shaped mortise
recessed into a regular miter to receive them. I can find a picture of
it later on (when I get home from work)...

Here is the joint I was talking about:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/3239848003/

Much stronger than a biscuit, and from the outside it appears just like
a regular butt miter with no external evidence of what's inside.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

DejaVoodoo wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:53 am, Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 30, 9:31 am, DejaVoodoo wrote:





On Jan 30, 8:24 am, N Hurst wrote:

On Jan 30, 9:05 am, DejaVoodoo wrote:

I have been asked to make a frame for a stained glass window. The
intent is that this frame will then be hung inside a window so
that the sun can pass through. Anyway, the glass is maybe 2x3
feet and pretty heavy; and they have requested a simple miter. My
question is: are biscuits strong enough to hold all this together
or do I need something else?

Thanks
Mark

I would consider pocket screws in addition to the biscuits. Having
a mechanical means of keeping the joint together would be a good
thing, considering the circumstances.

-Nathan

I was thinking the same thing, but the frame will be visible on both
side so screws are not really acceptable. Perhaps a couple dowels
though the joint would look ok.

Thanks
Mark

Do they have to be mitered corners? A rail-and-stile construction
would be stronger, especially if the tenons were deep and an inch up
from the bottom.
Maybe you could pin the tenons with some ebony pins and bevel
(flattened pyramids) the heads, leaving them slightly raised.
That kinda stuff looks very Greene & Greene.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

Thanks
Mark

You could also use flat metal "L" brackets on the back.

I used to make my own frames (various sizes up to 40"x60"), always glued the
miters with cyanoacrylate glue, no brackets, no nails. Never had one come
apart but they were only holding canvas on stretchers. The joint needs to
be smooth though and if it is a chopped joint it won't be; the trick with
those is to rub over the surfaces with a piece of chalk...the chalk fills in
the low spots, the glue soaks into the chalk and binds it to both the wood
and the mating surface.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
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Mitered half laps,or mitered bridle joints, (sometimes called mitered slip
joints), would work.

If your not sure what I'm talking about, search Google images. I pulled up
a bunch.

wrote:
Mitered half laps,or mitered bridle joints, (sometimes called mitered slip
joints), would work.

If your not sure what I'm talking about, search Google images. I pulled up
a bunch.

Lots of good info on this page:

http://www.projectwoodworking.com/pr...dworking05.php

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To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Here is the joint I was talking about:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/3239848003/

Much stronger than a biscuit, and from the outside it appears just like
a regular butt miter with no external evidence of what's inside.


I saw a frame made with those joints, with the addition is tapered pegs
through the mortise and tenon.
Cool part, is it had NO glue. You could pop the pegs out and take it
apart.


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"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 23:03:39 -0600, Steve Turner
wrote:

Steve Turner wrote:
DejaVoodoo wrote:
My preference would be to do a lap joint (that is how I did all my
face frames on my kitchen cabinets - it is a very strong joint), but
they want miters. I'm thinking I can get 2 biscuits in each joint. I
have not actually seen the wood yet - I think it is pine, but I will
not know until I get it tomorrow. They have burned some lettering
into it already, so I kind of have to get it right the first time.

My choice would be a joint whose name I can't conjure up (and I can't
seem to find any pictures of it) but it's a mortise and tenon joint
that's completely hidden and looks like a regular miter on the outside.
A blind mortise and tenon miter? The tenons (on the rails) take the
shape of a 90-degree right triangle and stop 1/4" shy of the end of the
board, and the stiles obviously have a triangular shaped mortise
recessed into a regular miter to receive them. I can find a picture of
it later on (when I get home from work)...

Here is the joint I was talking about:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/3239848003/

Much stronger than a biscuit, and from the outside it appears just like
a regular butt miter with no external evidence of what's inside.

Steve is right on. I really like this mortised miter idea for the OP.
It is strong, traditional, classic, and low cost. Easy to make a
table saw (or router table) jig using from the wood scrap bins.