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#1
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Corded drill ratings
At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a
commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
Sledge Hammer wrote:
At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... As far as burning down the house goes, if it's UL listed you're as covered as you're going to get. Not much attention paid to corded drills these days since the cordless have gotten so good that corded drills are becoming niche products. Just look for a decent brand with the features you want. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#3
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Corded drill ratings
On Jan 21, 10:12*am, Sledge Hammer wrote:
At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? *I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... I wish vendors would put more effort into the "feel" of their hand drills, but I suppose for no marginl, it's not worth their time. You can get a name brand 3/8" drill for 40-60 I think. There's really no comparison still to a cordless for drilling. |
#4
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Corded drill ratings
Makita makes a light,inexpensive corded drill that is
damn nice and very tough... http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=630 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=412 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=313 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=304 Sledge Hammer wrote: At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? |
#5
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Corded drill ratings
I am a fan of many Harbor Freight items, but as you rightly suggest,
consider only those drills above HF in quality. I picked up their cheapo 3/8" corded drill for about 10 bucks. Drills ok, except the one I have has a SUPER sensitive trigger. I swear a strong breeze blowing across the trigger will set the drill into motion. Kinda scary. Kevin |
#6
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Corded drill ratings
Pat Barber wrote:
Makita makes a light,inexpensive corded drill that is damn nice and very tough... http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=630 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=412 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=313 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=304 I have a Makita similar to these, but discontinued: 6406. I got it for 30 bucks at a HD or Lowes closeout. It's only 3.3amp, but is remarkably strong. 0-2100 rpm. I wish it was 1/2, but it's only 3/8, yet keyless. I may get a 1/2 chuck for it next time they're on sale at HF. Point is, I beat the crap out of this thing, drop it on the floor, off the roof. I use and abuse it, and it's still going strong, with only scratches to show for it. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#7
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Corded drill ratings
On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:33:34 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote: Pat Barber wrote: Makita makes a light,inexpensive corded drill that is damn nice and very tough... http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=630 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=412 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=313 http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/...ls.aspx?ID=304 I have a Makita similar to these, but discontinued: 6406. I got it for 30 bucks at a HD or Lowes closeout. It's only 3.3amp, but is remarkably strong. 0-2100 rpm. I wish it was 1/2, but it's only 3/8, yet keyless. I may get a 1/2 chuck for it next time they're on sale at HF. Point is, I beat the crap out of this thing, drop it on the floor, off the roof. I use and abuse it, and it's still going strong, with only scratches to show for it. Have a Milwaukee I could say the same about. This one is an older model when the triggers were smaller. I don't care for the newer ones with the elongated trigger and ergonomic curve to the grip. I also have a milwaukee corded angle drill. Bought it reconditioned for a really decent price. Gets into places others won't, Has saved the day more than once. Even their reconditioned tools have a 5 year warranty. Lenny |
#8
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Corded drill ratings
On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 08:12:08 -0800 (PST), Sledge Hammer
wrote: At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... The worst corded drill is better than the best cordless drill, and cost a fraction. You can get a high-quality corded Milwaulkee drill for the same price of a decent cordless (about $150). Chances are very good ithe Milwaulkee will last a lifetime with some abuse, can't say the same for a "Chicago" brand. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
J. Clarke wrote:
Sledge Hammer wrote: At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... As far as burning down the house goes, if it's UL listed you're as covered as you're going to get. Not much attention paid to corded drills these days since the cordless have gotten so good that corded drills are becoming niche products. Just look for a decent brand with the features you want. I bought a Skil to do sanding on the lathe, figuring it would succumb to the dust in short order. It is still working fine, but I got so aggravated with the stiff plastic cord that I ordered a replacement DeWalt cord and put on it. Now both my DeWalt and Skil drills have long flexible cords. Just something else to note when looking at tailed tools. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA Social Security: World's biggest Ponzi Scheme. |
#10
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Corded drill ratings
"Phisherman" wrote in message ... On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 08:12:08 -0800 (PST), Sledge Hammer The worst corded drill is better than the best cordless drill, and cost a fraction. You can get a high-quality corded Milwaulkee drill for the same price of a decent cordless (about $150). Chances are very good ithe Milwaulkee will last a lifetime with some abuse, can't say the same for a "Chicago" brand. I agree about 80%. LOL, Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. I will probably forever have at least one with and with out a tail. While the corded drill will operate, in many cases, as well as a cordless, a cordless drill is a particular power tool that is easily used in most any location and or position. Other corded tools, routers, jig saws, sanders, etc. typically are used on a level flat surface and the cords typically do not have to be dragged all over the work area. A corded drill tends to be carried around a lot more than any other corded tool, at least that is true in my shop. But for power, the corded is very hard to beat and is always ready if electricity is available. I very much prefer a corded drill for actually drilling holes, not so much for driving screws. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
Leon wrote:
Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. Obviously you're not serious about the second part, but for the clutch you just have to look around a bit. The Milwaukee 6580-20 and 6780-290 both have a clutch, as does the Makita 6827. On the other end of the spectrum, there is the Black&Decker DR330B and the Ryobi D46CK. I'm sure there are others. Chris |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
Leon wrote:
Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. I had a POS "cordless", brand long forgotten, that ran off its battery *or* a corded adapter that plugged where the battery would go. Good concept, but it has the relationship backwards. What we really want is the power of a corded drill that can run on batteries for portability. What they built was an anemic cordless that had a backup power source. (The battery was a cheap NiCad that died way too early in its service life. I stopped struggling with it when the brushes started sparking, also too early in its life.) |
#13
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Corded drill ratings
Leon wrote:
But for power, the corded is very hard to beat and is always ready if electricity is available. Just like my drill press. G |
#14
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Corded drill ratings
"Chris Friesen" wrote Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. Obviously you're not serious about the second part, but for the clutch you just have to look around a bit. The Milwaukee 6580-20 and 6780-290 both have a clutch, as does the Makita 6827. On the other end of the spectrum, there is the Black&Decker DR330B and the Ryobi D46CK. I'm sure there are others. Back in the day, I bought a clutch at a lumberyard for $30. I just chuck it up and put my drivers in it. It wasn't great, but it worked. I used it to build a lot of furniture, etc. When I got my Makita cordless drills, it got tossed out. The new drivers were much better. |
#15
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Corded drill ratings
Think of what the tool is to do.
I bought a corded hammer drill. It is intended to do a lot of hammering and drilling under a lot of back pressure. Cord is best. Even if a generator is needed. Now the hand drill that runs around the house and backyard and shop and truck.... that is handy in battery. When doing a roof - air or cord. Nice to have cordless but volume demands cord. I think the gas controlled nailers and such are neat. I have air nailers and a gas tank on a short hose for back yard fence or the front drive fence. To me, it means how many batteries I'll need to do a job. If there are a number and that takes time swapping and charging - Martin Phisherman wrote: On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 08:12:08 -0800 (PST), Sledge Hammer wrote: At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... The worst corded drill is better than the best cordless drill, and cost a fraction. You can get a high-quality corded Milwaulkee drill for the same price of a decent cordless (about $150). Chances are very good ithe Milwaulkee will last a lifetime with some abuse, can't say the same for a "Chicago" brand. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
On Jan 22, 6:55*am, Gerald Ross wrote:
J. Clarke wrote: Sledge Hammer wrote: At the risk of asking a dumb question: are corded drills such a commodity item that there is no longer a purpose in worrying about anything other than specs for anything above the Harbor Freight quality level? *I'm tempted to think so, but my landlord would have a problem with me burning down his house. None of the normal things I look at seems to have ratings.... As far as burning down the house goes, if it's UL listed you're as covered as you're going to get. Not much attention paid to corded drills these days since the cordless have gotten so good that corded drills are becoming niche products. Just look for a decent brand with the features you want. I bought a Skil to do sanding on the lathe, figuring it would succumb to the dust in short order. It is still working fine, but I got so aggravated with the stiff plastic cord that I ordered a replacement DeWalt cord and put on it. Now both my DeWalt and Skil drills have long flexible cords. Just something else to note when looking at tailed tools. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA Social Security: World's biggest Ponzi Scheme. GOOD!! I'm not the only one who gets ****ed at stiff plastic cords... and here I thought I was weird... |
#17
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Corded drill ratings
"Phisherman" wrote in message The worst corded drill is better than the best cordless drill, and cost a fraction. In that case, I'll swap you my old Black and Decker corded drill for a Bosch, Milwaukee, or Panasonic cordless. You'll come out way ahead on the deal. I'll pay postage for both. |
#18
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Corded drill ratings
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: But for power, the corded is very hard to beat and is always ready if electricity is available. Just like my drill press. G The drill press is awkward on a ladder though. I'm thinking a shoulder mount would help. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
On Jan 22, 6:32 pm, Chris Friesen wrote:
Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. Obviously you're not serious about the second part, but for the clutch you just have to look around a bit. The Milwaukee 6580-20 and 6780-290 both have a clutch, as does the Makita 6827. On the other end of the spectrum, there is the Black&Decker DR330B and the Ryobi D46CK. I'm sure there are others. I've been using the Ryobi for oh, about a year now. It's not a bad drill at all. The chuck leaves something to be desired, and if I push it hard I can smell the fact that it's not happy about it. But that's what the beat to hell Milwaukee next to it is for. A corded drill with a clutch is a very handy thing to have. It lives next to the workbench always ready to go. For 30-40 bucks I can't complain. I'll put a decent chuck on it when this one is toast, and when the drill itself dies I'll buy another one, and I still won't have paid as much as a cordless. -Kevin |
#20
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Corded drill ratings
"MikeWhy" wrote in
: Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. I had a POS "cordless", brand long forgotten, that ran off its battery *or* a corded adapter that plugged where the battery would go. Good concept, but it has the relationship backwards. What we really want is the power of a corded drill that can run on batteries for portability. What they built was an anemic cordless that had a backup power source. (The battery was a cheap NiCad that died way too early in its service life. I stopped struggling with it when the brushes started sparking, also too early in its life.) I had a Skil that did that. It was great! At 9.6V, it'd drive 2" screws all day long (on AC, of course) but could only do 4-5 3" screws before tripping the overload. My Makitas are leaps and bounds better, but I still like the idea that one drill/driver can be cordless, until you run out of power, and then go corded and charge the battery at the same time. Although... with 3 batteries it's easy to keep flipping between the charger, drill and impact driver. Puckdropper -- On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as some writers are incorrigible. To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm |
#21
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Corded drill ratings
"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
... "MikeWhy" wrote in : Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. I had a POS "cordless", brand long forgotten, that ran off its battery *or* a corded adapter that plugged where the battery would go. Good concept, but it has the relationship backwards. What we really want is the power of a corded drill that can run on batteries for portability. What they built was an anemic cordless that had a backup power source. (The battery was a cheap NiCad that died way too early in its service life. I stopped struggling with it when the brushes started sparking, also too early in its life.) I had a Skil that did that. It was great! At 9.6V, it'd drive 2" screws all day long (on AC, of course) but could only do 4-5 3" screws before tripping the overload. That was it. I replaced it with a cheap corded Dewalt and been happy ever since. Except it didn't have a clutch. I got a tiny Milwaukee li-ion to partner with it after I stripped out too many screws driving them. The Milwaukee is kick-ass, too. It came with 2 batteries, although there wasn't really a need. The charge lasts essentially forever in my use, and recharges in 30 minutes. Quite pleased with both of them. There's no replacing a real corded drill when you need what they do: 2500 rpm and 6 amps of torque. My Makitas are leaps and bounds better, but I still like the idea that one drill/driver can be cordless, until you run out of power, and then go corded and charge the battery at the same time. Although... with 3 batteries it's easy to keep flipping between the charger, drill and impact driver. |
#22
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Corded drill ratings
On Thu, 22 Jan 2009 22:16:12 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote: "Phisherman" wrote in message The worst corded drill is better than the best cordless drill, and cost a fraction. In that case, I'll swap you my old Black and Decker corded drill for a Bosch, Milwaukee, or Panasonic cordless. You'll come out way ahead on the deal. I'll pay postage for both. My Dad's B&D from the early 1960's is still going strong, and I'm not about to part with it. On occasion I still use it today, but the chuck is a 3/8", double metal insulated, heavy, small, powerful, no plastic parts. The one cordless I bought in 1995 went to the trash a long time ago. |
#23
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Corded drill ratings
"Robatoy" wrote in message ... On Jan 22, 6:55 am, Gerald Ross wrote: GOOD!! I'm not the only one who gets ****ed at stiff plastic cords... and here I thought I was weird... LOL thinking back to the 60's when I got my first B&D drill and jig saw around the age of 12, I recall B&D cords being so stiff that you could hardly get the tool and the cord back into the storage case. That apparently led to the No cord at all, period, I don't know which was worse. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
"Chris Friesen" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. Obviously you're not serious about the second part, but for the clutch you just have to look around a bit. The Milwaukee 6580-20 and 6780-290 both have a clutch, as does the Makita 6827. On the other end of the spectrum, there is the Black&Decker DR330B and the Ryobi D46CK. I'm sure there are others. Chris Thanks for the update! I'll take a look at those. |
#25
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Corded drill ratings
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message news "B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: But for power, the corded is very hard to beat and is always ready if electricity is available. Just like my drill press. G The drill press is awkward on a ladder though. I'm thinking a shoulder mount would help. I think my drill press would still be to heavy for a shoulder mount. ;~) After 30 years, I finally put it on a mobile base. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message ... Think of what the tool is to do. I bought a corded hammer drill. It is intended to do a lot of hammering and drilling under a lot of back pressure. Cord is best. Even if a generator is needed. Now the hand drill that runs around the house and backyard and shop and truck.... that is handy in battery. When doing a roof - air or cord. Nice to have cordless but volume demands cord. I think the gas controlled nailers and such are neat. I have air nailers and a gas tank on a short hose for back yard fence or the front drive fence. Consider going to HD and buying a cheap 100' air hose for $10 if you do many out doors projects. It'll cut down on a lot of back and forth to the refill the tank. |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Corded drill ratings
"Chris Friesen" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. Obviously you're not serious about the second part, but for the clutch you just have to look around a bit. The Milwaukee 6580-20 and 6780-290 both have a clutch, as does the Makita 6827. On the other end of the spectrum, there is the Black&Decker DR330B and the Ryobi D46CK. I'm sure there are others. Chris FIY I looked at all you mentioned. Only the B&D and Ryobi are actually drills. The Milwaukee and Makita are screw drivers. They do not have a chuck for a round drill bit. I'll keep looking though. |
#28
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Corded drill ratings
"Leon" wrote in message
... "Chris Friesen" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: Please show me a corded drill with a "clutch", or a corded drill that will operate with out an electrical outlet or extension cord. Obviously you're not serious about the second part, but for the clutch you just have to look around a bit. The Milwaukee 6580-20 and 6780-290 both have a clutch, as does the Makita 6827. On the other end of the spectrum, there is the Black&Decker DR330B and the Ryobi D46CK. I'm sure there are others. Chris Thanks for the update! I'll take a look at those. Dewalt DW281 also. Be careful of those. Like the Milwaukees and the Makita, it takes 1/4" hex bits only. The B&D and Ryobi have 3/8" chucks. The irony is the "big" names have big power and speed, while the ones with chucks spin only 1100 rpm. |
#29
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Corded drill ratings
"MikeWhy" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message news:fGmel. Thanks for the update! I'll take a look at those. Dewalt DW281 also. Be careful of those. Like the Milwaukees and the Makita, it takes 1/4" hex bits only. The B&D and Ryobi have 3/8" chucks. The irony is the "big" names have big power and speed, while the ones with chucks spin only 1100 rpm. I think the Milwaukee and the Makita are probably dry wall screw guns, at leas that's the way the Makita looks and those do usually run very fast. The B&D and the Ryobi do run pretty slow for corded drills. My Makita cordless will run up to 1300 and IMHO for drilling 3/8" and smaller holes that is too slow for me. |
#30
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Corded drill ratings
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"B A R R Y" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: But for power, the corded is very hard to beat and is always ready if electricity is available. Just like my drill press. G The drill press is awkward on a ladder though. I'm thinking a shoulder mount would help. That's why I have cordless drills. G |
#31
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Corded drill ratings
I have 4 100' hoses. They are not long enough to reach from the shop to the
the house, or fence. They can reach the other barn but that is a lot of hose to haul around - long length means high impedance or restriction to air flow. I had to have a local tank for storage. Lots of trouble. I got the gas and mini hose at Home Depot and it works anywhere I walk. Yes there is a hose on the gun, but a short one. Martin Leon wrote: "Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message ... Think of what the tool is to do. I bought a corded hammer drill. It is intended to do a lot of hammering and drilling under a lot of back pressure. Cord is best. Even if a generator is needed. Now the hand drill that runs around the house and backyard and shop and truck.... that is handy in battery. When doing a roof - air or cord. Nice to have cordless but volume demands cord. I think the gas controlled nailers and such are neat. I have air nailers and a gas tank on a short hose for back yard fence or the front drive fence. Consider going to HD and buying a cheap 100' air hose for $10 if you do many out doors projects. It'll cut down on a lot of back and forth to the refill the tank. |
#32
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Corded drill ratings
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message news I have 4 100' hoses. Ohhhh! They are not long enough to reach from the shop to the the house, or fence. I truely wish I could say that. ;~) They can reach the other barn but that is a lot of hose to haul around - long length means high impedance or restriction to air flow. I had to have a local tank for storage. Lots of trouble. I can see that. |
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