What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.

Paul T.

--
The only dumb question, is the one not asked

"PHT" wrote in message
...
What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.


If by ribbed you mean that the saw uses a serpentine belt, that is probably
a better belt than a link belt.

On Jan 9, 7:52*pm, PHT wrote:
What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.

Paul T.

--
The only dumb question, is the one not asked

I have had one of these table saws for 4 years now and not had any
problem. I would not worry about changing belts.

Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com

"PHT" wrote in message
...
What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.

Paul T.


I haven't seen a need to change to a link belt. The ribbed design seems to
flex well and I haven't noted that it never took on a set after sitting for
long periods. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

"C & E" wrote in message
...

"PHT" wrote in message
...
What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it. I do have another question. I noticed
that the pulley driving the blade is a ribbed one. Has any one replaced
this pulley so that a link belt can be used with this saw? Or is it
really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.

Paul T.


I haven't seen a need to change to a link belt. The ribbed design seems
to flex well and I haven't noted that it never took on a set after sitting
for long periods. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Fat finger fix: ...I haven't noted that it **never** took on a set...
Apologies!

PHT wrote:
What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.

Paul T.

I bought a Rigid table saw years ago at HomeDepot. I bought the
slightly cheaper model with the stamped metal extensions, not the cast
wings. Home Depot replaced my first saw as the bearings developed an
out of round sound after a few days of use. The replacement eventually
also developed this sound, but as far as I can tell the arbor still runs
true with no blade wobble, and the bearings have not seized up on me.
Mine also has the ribbed belt. I don't know which is better a ribbed
belt or a "V" belt, but mine runs true and has never popped off the pulleys.

This saw is limited to a right side rip of 24", left of 12" while newer
models go to at least 30". (You can still get an effective rip of
greater than 24" by ripping the 'other side' but your measure must
include the width of the blade.)

Does Home Depot still sell Rigid saws?

My saw still works and until the economy comes back to normal I don't
want to spend the money to replace it with a newer one. However I do
have an eye on the new SawStop contractor saw.

On Jan 10, 2:56 pm, ken scharf wrote:

My saw still works and until the economy comes back to normal I don't
want to spend the money to replace it with a newer one. However I do
have an eye on the new SawStop contractor saw.

I did too, until I saw the price tag. You can get a cabinet saw for
the same money, who are they kidding?


-Kevin

wrote:
On Jan 10, 2:56 pm, ken scharf wrote:

My saw still works and until the economy comes back to normal I don't
want to spend the money to replace it with a newer one. However I do
have an eye on the new SawStop contractor saw.

I did too, until I saw the price tag. You can get a cabinet saw for
the same money, who are they kidding?


-Kevin

It IS an expensive saw. It is also a very well made saw. It does have
most of the features you would need in a good table saw such as a riving
knife instead of the usual spreader.

The safety feature that the saw adds is worth the price under certain
conditions. If you are an employer what you will save in insurance will
more than pay for the extra cost of the saw. SawStop knows this, and it
is factored into the price. Eventually the very existence of this saw
with its safety feature will result in product liability lawsuits that
will put Delta, Jet, and others without this feature out of business.

The irony is that most accidents involving table saw blades happen to
professional wood workers and not so much hobbyists. Probably because
the more you use a table saw, the less you think about safety. I still
respect the damn thing. However I am getting on in years and my vision
and coordination are not what they were 20 years ago. A bit of a safety
edge might be the difference between giving up the hobby or not.

I still think that 'kick back' is a bigger threat to safety from a
table saw than contact with the blade (though the former can be a factor
in the latter). Using a push stick and avoiding cuts that could jam the
work between the fence and the blade is important.

On Jan 10, 4:31 pm, ken scharf wrote:
wrote:
On Jan 10, 2:56 pm, ken scharf wrote:

My saw still works and until the economy comes back to normal I don't
want to spend the money to replace it with a newer one. However I do
have an eye on the new SawStop contractor saw.

I did too, until I saw the price tag. You can get a cabinet saw for
the same money, who are they kidding?

It IS an expensive saw. It is also a very well made saw. It does have
most of the features you would need in a good table saw such as a riving
knife instead of the usual spreader.

Yeah, and I could see maybe $1000 for it fully loaded. But $1500 for
stamped wings and a crappy fence? Come on. By the time you get cast
iron wings and a real fence on it you may as well have saved your
money a little longer and bought the cabinet saw version.

And the riving knife is starting to show up on much less expensive
saws. The new ridgid saw that isn't quite out yet has one, and a
granite top, I think for $600.

-Kevin

And the riving knife is starting to show up on much less expensive
saws. The new ridgid saw that isn't quite out yet has one, and a
granite top, I think for $600.

-Kevin

It has to bee on any saw in the US, starting 2009,
so it's no longer any sort of indicator of quality.

I believe it'll be on the 99 dollar jobbies.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
And the riving knife is starting to show up on much less expensive
saws. The new ridgid saw that isn't quite out yet has one, and a
granite top, I think for $600.

-Kevin

It has to bee on any saw in the US, starting 2009,
so it's no longer any sort of indicator of quality.

I believe it'll be on the 99 dollar jobbies.

Sort of. UL987 is a standard, not a regulation, and the only penalty
is withholding of UL approval, which is a big hammer for something
subject to building codes or OSHA regs but not all that much of one
for a consumer product. Further, it only requires a riving knife on
new designs, it doesn't require that production of older designs that
lack that feature to be discontinued.

Incidentally, UL987 does not simply require riving knives--it's a
general spec for power tools that runs some unGodly number of pages,
sells for a thousand bucks a copy, and even the Consumer Product
Safety Commission admits they aren't too clear on some of the
requirements.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:
Incidentally, UL987 does not simply require riving knives--it's a
general spec for power tools that runs some unGodly number of pages,
sells for a thousand bucks a copy, and even the Consumer Product
Safety Commission admits they aren't too clear on some of the
requirements.


Par for the course.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Saying years ago states what you want.

Think Sears. Tools went up in quality and then down, down, up, up, down....

Depending on the budget and vendor the metal was great to so-so...

Same with Rigid - I suspect a different vendor or spec .....

Martin

ken scharf wrote:
PHT wrote:
What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the
blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.
Paul T.

I bought a Rigid table saw years ago at HomeDepot. I bought the
slightly cheaper model with the stamped metal extensions, not the cast
wings. Home Depot replaced my first saw as the bearings developed an
out of round sound after a few days of use. The replacement eventually
also developed this sound, but as far as I can tell the arbor still runs
true with no blade wobble, and the bearings have not seized up on me.
Mine also has the ribbed belt. I don't know which is better a ribbed
belt or a "V" belt, but mine runs true and has never popped off the
pulleys.

This saw is limited to a right side rip of 24", left of 12" while newer
models go to at least 30". (You can still get an effective rip of
greater than 24" by ripping the 'other side' but your measure must
include the width of the blade.)

Does Home Depot still sell Rigid saws?

My saw still works and until the economy comes back to normal I don't
want to spend the money to replace it with a newer one. However I do
have an eye on the new SawStop contractor saw.

On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 01:52:47 GMT, PHT wrote:

What to thank everyone for the info provided for this saw. I did go look
at one today and did purchase it.

I do have another question. I noticed that the pulley driving the blade is
a ribbed one. Has any one replaced this pulley so that a link belt can be
used with this saw? Or is it really necessary to replace the belt?
BTW it is a 3650 model.

Paul T.

I put link belts on a lot of my tools, but I don't think I would on my 1650..

When assembling it, I looked at the pulleys and belt that came with it, and
decided that they seemed to know more than I did and that the belt was a good
match for the saw..
The main reason that I put link belts on tools is ease of belt replacement and
less noise. I don't have either problem with the 1650, so I'll leave it like it
came...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 15:55:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

And the riving knife is starting to show up on much less expensive
saws. The new ridgid saw that isn't quite out yet has one, and a
granite top, I think for $600.

-Kevin

If I was buying again, I'd be VERY interested in the granite top..
Living in a humid climate and having the TS on the carport, I spend a lot more a
year on Topsaver and buffing pads than I ever expected and still have a
reddish-orange table..

Oh.. salt air must be a big factor, too...
For the first time in over 25 years, the "stainless" steel tubes of my shopsmith
are rusted..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"C & E" wrote in message
...



I haven't seen a need to change to a link belt. The ribbed design seems
to flex well and I haven't noted that it never took on a set after
sitting for long periods. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Fat finger fix: ...I haven't noted that it **never** took on a set...
Apologies!


Ok Fat Finger's, should the second "never" be "ever"? '~)

mac davis wrote in
:


If I was buying again, I'd be VERY interested in the granite top..
Living in a humid climate and having the TS on the carport, I spend a
lot more a year on Topsaver and buffing pads than I ever expected and
still have a reddish-orange table..

Oh.. salt air must be a big factor, too...
For the first time in over 25 years, the "stainless" steel tubes of my
shopsmith are rusted..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.

The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.

Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as
some writers are incorrigible.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" wrote

When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.

The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.

Are you reading this Robatoy??

How about installing granite tablesaw tops?? You could retrofit old
tablesaws! Maybe even take a vacation and take care of Mac's saw.

And then you could expand into bandsaw tops, miter saw tops, jointers,
planers, etc.

Heck, I bet you could even come up with a small granite extension for a
Domino!

You got a CNC machine now. Put it to use!!

And if all else fails, you can use some of that fake countertop material
that you use all the time.

On Jan 12, 11:49*pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Puckdropper" *wrote

When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." *I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.

The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. *Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.

Are you reading this Robatoy??

No, I'm not.

How about installing granite tablesaw tops?? *You could retrofit old
tablesaws! *

I wouldn't use granite, I'd use quartz (eStone). Much stronger and no
fear of fissures.
It also lends itself to better adhesives for threaded inserts and
such.
Quartz would be ideal... even the 3/4" stuff would be plenty rigid and
flat.

Maybe even take a vacation and take care of Mac's saw.

...and maybe catch a little fish. I hear there's them marlins down
there.

And then you could expand into bandsaw tops, miter saw tops, jointers,
planers, etc.

Bandsaws maybe. As long as we're dealing with bolt-on trunnions, I can
see it working.
No need for planers. Jointers would be way too complicated with the
dovetail races etc.

Heck, I bet you could even come up with a small granite extension for a
Domino!

How about a display pedestal for the Domino?


You got a CNC machine now. *Put it to use!!

Don't you worry. That thing ran for 8 hours today. No need for me to
be looking for things to do for it.

BTW, tooling for quartz is very, very pricy, and my CNC doesn't have
the balls to machine quartz.

And if all else fails, you can use some of that fake countertop material
that you use all the time.

LOL
HEY! That fake stuff allows me to afford a few real dreams.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...

When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.

The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.

Puckdropper

I'll lay odds that the fracture toughness of cast iron is greater than
granite. The next time I'm near a Charpy tester, I'll try to find out.
Might have to wait a while, tho. It's 20 years and counting as of now...

todd

On Jan 12, 11:52*pm, "todd" wrote:
"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message

...

When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." *I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.

The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. *Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.

Puckdropper

I'll lay odds that the fracture toughness of cast iron is greater than
granite. *The next time I'm near a Charpy tester, I'll try to find out.
Might have to wait a while, tho. *It's 20 years and counting as of now....

todd

Forget why I was doing something so stupid, but for some reason I felt
was good enough at the time, I was tapping with a hammer around the
throat plate on my Steel City granite-topped saw and chipped the
stone. Tiny chip, but the sharp edges are very sensitive to
impacts.

A valuable lesson, with essentially no impact on the top, but I will
never go near it with a hammer again, I tell you whut.

Don't think a cast top woulda cared about what I was doing.

D'ohBoy

Puckdropper wrote:
mac davis wrote in
:



If I was buying again, I'd be VERY interested in the granite top..
Living in a humid climate and having the TS on the carport, I spend a
lot more a year on Topsaver and buffing pads than I ever expected and
still have a reddish-orange table..

Oh.. salt air must be a big factor, too...
For the first time in over 25 years, the "stainless" steel tubes of my
shopsmith are rusted..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.

The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.

Puckdropper

There also seem to be a lot of accessories that use a magnet to hold to
the top. So do the advantages of granite outweigh the inability to use
these?

John Siegel wrote:
There also seem to be a lot of accessories that use a magnet to hold to
the top. So do the advantages of granite outweigh the inability to use
these?

I sometimes like to use the magnetic base for my dial indicator to
"remember" the position of my fence so I can come back to it at after
performing some other cut (if its presence doesn't interfere in some
way). Sometimes this allows me to insert spacer blocks (like those
brass setup gauges) to offset the fence a specific distance from a known
position, then return to the original position once the secondary cut is
performed. Can't do that with a granite top.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Jan 13, 5:07*pm, Steve Turner wrote:
John Siegel wrote:
There also seem to be a lot of accessories that use a magnet to hold to
the top. *So do the advantages of granite outweigh the inability to use
these?

I sometimes like to use the magnetic base for my dial indicator to
"remember" the position of my fence so I can come back to it at after
performing some other cut (if its presence doesn't interfere in some
way). *Sometimes this allows me to insert spacer blocks (like those
brass setup gauges) to offset the fence a specific distance from a known
position, then return to the original position once the secondary cut is
performed. *Can't do that with a granite top.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

I'm in the granite/quartz/solidsurface bidniss, and I still think cast-
iron is the way the go....IF done right.
Nothing worse than a bad piece of cast iron, and even though it seems
to be getting better across the board, there are still some pretty
crappy castings out there. But if flat is what you're after and
something that stays flat, granite is your solution. These mill-
wrights don't haul those slabs of reference granite around for no
reason.
Besides, granite is pretty and it doesn't rust.

As for the ability to use magnets? I haven't used a magnetic anything
on a TS top in 30+ years. Jointers and planers yes.

I'd think Soapstone or quartz is best. Soapstone is used in labs
and can be filed and routed.....

Martin

Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 12, 11:49 pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote

When I first saw one a few weeks ago in an ad, I was skeptical, thinking
"well everything's going to granite." I've got to admit though, the
granite top would seem to solve quite a few of the moisture problems.
The only problems I foresee would be cracking the granite on a movable-
saw, or maybe cracking it from dropping a heavy object on it. Of course,
that'd cause problems for a cast iron top, too.
Are you reading this Robatoy??

No, I'm not.

How about installing granite tablesaw tops?? You could retrofit old
tablesaws!

I wouldn't use granite, I'd use quartz (eStone). Much stronger and no
fear of fissures.
It also lends itself to better adhesives for threaded inserts and
such.
Quartz would be ideal... even the 3/4" stuff would be plenty rigid and
flat.

Maybe even take a vacation and take care of Mac's saw.

..and maybe catch a little fish. I hear there's them marlins down
there.
And then you could expand into bandsaw tops, miter saw tops, jointers,
planers, etc.

Bandsaws maybe. As long as we're dealing with bolt-on trunnions, I can
see it working.
No need for planers. Jointers would be way too complicated with the
dovetail races etc.

Heck, I bet you could even come up with a small granite extension for a
Domino!

How about a display pedestal for the Domino?

You got a CNC machine now. Put it to use!!

Don't you worry. That thing ran for 8 hours today. No need for me to
be looking for things to do for it.

BTW, tooling for quartz is very, very pricy, and my CNC doesn't have
the balls to machine quartz.
And if all else fails, you can use some of that fake countertop material
that you use all the time.

LOL
HEY! That fake stuff allows me to afford a few real dreams.

In article ,
says...

I'd think Soapstone or quartz is best. Soapstone is used in labs
and can be filed and routed.....

And fired. It hardens to about 6.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
As for the ability to use magnets? I haven't used a magnetic
anything on a TS top in 30+ years. Jointers and planers yes.

Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

phorbin wrote in news:MPG.23d71646c9f27f109898d3
@news.execulink.com:

In article ,
says...

I'd think Soapstone or quartz is best. Soapstone is used in labs
and can be filed and routed.....

And fired. It hardens to about 6.

I believe we had soapstone benches in a lab I worked in about 35 years
ago. I liked it until I spilled some radioactive phosphate solution on
it. I couldn't get it removed from the bench as it had soaked in.
Now P32 radiation is not innocuous but rather hard - fairly energetic
beta radiation, just electrons no gamma radiation. That is also the nice
thing - you can easily find it, in contrast to tritium which is sneaky
soft. The other good thing about P32 is that it has a short half-life of
only 14 days. So my protection was a couple of glass plates taped onto
the bench to absorb the radiation while the P32 decayed. After a good
half year, the P32 had dissipated (the rule of thumb is 13 times the half
life of 14 days and there is no radioactivity anymore, you can do the
math), and the glass plates could be removed. In the meantime work could
just go on without worry.

But I still don't like soapstone benches for a lab. Yes, you are suppsed
to use plastic-lined absorbant "diapers", but that will not prevent every
spill onto the bench.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Jan 14, 3:12*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
As for the ability to use magnets? I haven't used a magnetic
anything on a TS top in 30+ years. Jointers and planers yes.

Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

Yup... I just never trusted the magnetic ones. They're okay for light
work, I suppose, and better than none, but for that positive security,
I prefer the mitre-slot.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

Yup... I just never trusted the magnetic ones. They're okay for light
work, I suppose, and better than none, but for that positive security,
I prefer the mitre-slot.

I bought these ones this past summer and they worked well without any
slipping that I noticed. I suppose with enough leverage, most anything
magnetic can be moved, but the convenience of being able to place them most
anywhere on the table saw negated any worry I might have had about slipping.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...080,51225&ap=1

On Jan 14, 1:12*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
As for the ability to use magnets? I haven't used a magnetic
anything on a TS top in 30+ years. Jointers and planers yes.

Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

how do t slots cut in a granite top last? i would think one could pop
the side of them out with an energetic t bolt tightening. granite
isn't that strong when it's milled thinly.

Han wrote:
I believe we had soapstone benches in a lab I worked in about 35 years
ago. I liked it until I spilled some radioactive phosphate solution on
it. I couldn't get it removed from the bench as it had soaked in.
Now P32 radiation is not innocuous but rather hard - fairly energetic
beta radiation, just electrons no gamma radiation. That is also the nice
thing - you can easily find it, in contrast to tritium which is sneaky
soft. The other good thing about P32 is that it has a short half-life of
only 14 days. So my protection was a couple of glass plates taped onto
the bench to absorb the radiation while the P32 decayed. After a good
half year, the P32 had dissipated (the rule of thumb is 13 times the half
life of 14 days and there is no radioactivity anymore, you can do the
math), and the glass plates could be removed. In the meantime work could
just go on without worry.

But I still don't like soapstone benches for a lab. Yes, you are suppsed
to use plastic-lined absorbant "diapers", but that will not prevent every
spill onto the bench.



I'll keep this in mind for when I build that plutonium armoire. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 21:43:29 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:


I wouldn't use granite, I'd use quartz (eStone). Much stronger and no
fear of fissures.
It also lends itself to better adhesives for threaded inserts and
such.
Quartz would be ideal... even the 3/4" stuff would be plenty rigid and
flat.

Works for me.. maybe the belt grinder table, too?

Maybe even take a vacation and take care of Mac's saw.

..and maybe catch a little fish. I hear there's them marlins down there.

Further south, almost to Cabo for that... We're only 120 miles south of the
CA/AZ border and on the Sea of Cortez..
Lots of sea bass, shrimp, etc. here though..

Bandsaws maybe. As long as we're dealing with bolt-on trunnions, I can
see it working.

Maybe the belt grinder table, too?
(bandsaw is in the shop)



mac

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On Tue, 13 Jan 2009 16:29:31 -0500, John Siegel
wrote:


There also seem to be a lot of accessories that use a magnet to hold to
the top. So do the advantages of granite outweigh the inability to use these?

Damn good point!
Don't know if the saw would be as much fun with out my Mag-lock feather boards
and jigs..


mac

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On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 03:12:47 -0500, "Upscale" wrote:


"Robatoy" wrote in message
As for the ability to use magnets? I haven't used a magnetic
anything on a TS top in 30+ years. Jointers and planers yes.

Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

Gag me with a push stick..... that's so 90's.. rofl


mac

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On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 04:46:43 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Jan 14, 3:12*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
As for the ability to use magnets? I haven't used a magnetic
anything on a TS top in 30+ years. Jointers and planers yes.

Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

Yup... I just never trusted the magnetic ones. They're okay for light
work, I suppose, and better than none, but for that positive security,
I prefer the mitre-slot.

I definitely trust the mag loc not to move..
Two 30mm rare earth magnets on each of the two locks on that puppy..

I trust it more than a miter slot, unless the jig or feather board has slot
adjusters..


mac

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On Wed, 14 Jan 2009 08:16:35 -0500, "Upscale" wrote:

"Robatoy" wrote in message
Featherboard in a mitre slot then?

Yup... I just never trusted the magnetic ones. They're okay for light
work, I suppose, and better than none, but for that positive security,
I prefer the mitre-slot.

I bought these ones this past summer and they worked well without any
slipping that I noticed. I suppose with enough leverage, most anything
magnetic can be moved, but the convenience of being able to place them most
anywhere on the table saw negated any worry I might have had about slipping.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...080,51225&ap=1

yep.. that's the mag locks.. love em..

I've bought 3 of these since:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.asp...FamilyID=20128


mac

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"mac davis" wrote in message
yep.. that's the mag locks.. love em..

Lee Valley's website says it uses magnetic clamps with a combined breakaway
strength of 210 lb. I figure if they fail to do the job they're designed
for, then I'm not cutting my wood properly (or safely) and there's a problem
somewhere else.

-MIKE- wrote in
:

snip

I'll keep this in mind for when I build that plutonium armoire. :-)

Plutonium is not too radioactive, ie radiation from plutonium is not that
strong (I believe). Pure uranium is very weak alpha radiation, just about
harmless. One of the biggest problems of plutonium is that is very toxic
especially the dust. Of course, if you exceed the critical mass, there is
going to be a lot of ashes.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:

snip
I'll keep this in mind for when I build that plutonium armoire. :-)

Plutonium is not too radioactive, ie radiation from plutonium is not that
strong (I believe). Pure uranium is very weak alpha radiation, just about
harmless. One of the biggest problems of plutonium is that is very toxic
especially the dust. Of course, if you exceed the critical mass, there is
going to be a lot of ashes.


If you read this with a lisp, it's much funnier.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply