So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at Harbor
Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the next? I
can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the brad/staple guns an
exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer will be a new thing for
me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode cordless framing and finish
nailers before.

Thanks in advance.

Ed

Ed Edelenbos wrote:
So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at
Harbor Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the
next? I can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the
brad/staple guns an exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer
will be a new thing for me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode
cordless framing and finish nailers before.

Thanks in advance.

Ed

Ed;

I have several brad nailers/staplers. Some I got with air compressors,
some I purchased. They all seem to perform equally well. However, I
would not use them in an industrial environment. They are on the light side.

Even though you don't anticipate using staples I recommend you getting a
combo nailer/stapler. The difference between with and without staples is
insignificant.

Dave

"David G. Nagel" wrote in message
...
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at
Harbor Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the
next? I can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the
brad/staple guns an exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer
will be a new thing for me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode
cordless framing and finish nailers before.

Thanks in advance.

Ed

Ed;

I have several brad nailers/staplers. Some I got with air compressors,
some I purchased. They all seem to perform equally well. However, I would
not use them in an industrial environment. They are on the light side.

Even though you don't anticipate using staples I recommend you getting a
combo nailer/stapler. The difference between with and without staples is
insignificant.

Dave

Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed

On Jan 6, 10:54*pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Thanks. *I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. *More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.

Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.

If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.

I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.

Robert

I have a few brad only guns and a few brad/staple guns from HF. The only
drawback to the brad/staple gun is that it leaves a staple size dent in the
wood even if you are shooting brads. Other than that they all work fine. We
use them in our woodshop and in our home repair business.

cm


wrote in message
...
On Jan 6, 10:54 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.

Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.

If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.

I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.

Robert

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 23:23:10 -0500, "Ed Edelenbos"
wrote:

So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at Harbor
Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the next? I
can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the brad/staple guns an
exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer will be a new thing for
me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode cordless framing and finish
nailers before.

Thanks in advance.

Ed


None, why buy frustration? Avoid "Made in China." I don't have
any Paslode tools, but I've heard they are quite good (are these made
in the USA?).

wrote in message
...
On Jan 6, 10:54 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.

Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.

If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.

I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.

Robert

Par for the course... I went to the local and they didn't have any in
stock. I do have another question if anyone feels like it; how about the
difference between oil and oil free? It seems to me like the oil models
would be the better bet but what say y'all?

Ed

On Jan 7, 12:42*pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Par for the course... *I went to the local and they didn't have any in
stock. *

Didja get a rain check?

I do have another question if anyone feels like it; *how about the
difference between oil and oil free? *It seems to me like the oil models
would be the better bet but what say y'all?

I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
oiling. It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.

An example would by my Hitachi roofing gun. Over the years it has
been used to shingle roofs (its portion on about half a roof is over
7,000 per roof!), apply insulation, and fabricate site built trusses.
This is a utility nailer. When I use it all day, I oil the snot out
of it in the morning, and then again when starting after lunch. I
mean soak it. When it fires, you see the oil mist come out of it. It
hasn't had seals in 5 years of use.

I have about 25 or so pneumatic nailers, and I like the oiled guns
because they are easy to find rebuild kits to repair them is
necessary. In fact, when I am in full swing, my fastener guys replace
all soft parts free in my oiled guns when I buy nails and staples from
them.

Because of their reliability and performance, I switched all my gun
purchases over to Bostitch brand over a period of time, and when I
needed a new brad nailer and 15 ga angle nailer, the fastener guys
made me a great deal on the magnesium framed oiless guns. They are
nice. I have trimmed a couple of houses with them, and like my other
Bostitch guns, they performed flawlessly.

The oiless trim guns might be good for some for a couple of reasons.
First, you can't over oil the gun and spew oil mist or have a dirty
drop of oil fall on your project. Second, you don't have to remember
to oil the gun, so you don't worry about blowing out the seals.

The oiless guns cost more, but the last time I bought guns, they were
a LOT more. If I wasn't offered a deal on the guns, I wouldn't
have purchased the oiless.

I think either way you go, you will be fine. I would be more
interested in how the gun feels in my hand, and its reputation for
reliability balanced with price.

I have no beef with the HF brad guns I have. At $10, they were an
excellent buy. If I have an amigo or sub on the job that bursts a
seal on a gun, he can borrow them anytime with no heartburn from me,
and the work on the job can continue. I bought them to be utility
tackers, and they have far exceeded my expectations. At $10 (I think
the door buster price is nnow $14) it came with a bottle of oil, a
cleaning brush(?) and a rebuild kit for the cylinder and trigger.

I think the last time I looked at the Bostitch bradder that was a mag/
oiless, it was about $120 locally.

But CPO has them reconditioned at an excellent price:

http://www.cpobostitch.com/nailers/finishing_nailers/bt200k-2-r.html

For $49, I don't know how you could beat the price if you are looking
at an oiless.

Good luck on your purchase.

Robert

wrote in message
...
On Jan 7, 12:42 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Par for the course... I went to the local and they didn't have any in
stock.

Didja get a rain check?

I do have another question if anyone feels like it; how about the
difference between oil and oil free? It seems to me like the oil models
would be the better bet but what say y'all?

I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
oiling. It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.

An example would by my Hitachi roofing gun. Over the years it has
been used to shingle roofs (its portion on about half a roof is over
7,000 per roof!), apply insulation, and fabricate site built trusses.
This is a utility nailer. When I use it all day, I oil the snot out
of it in the morning, and then again when starting after lunch. I
mean soak it. When it fires, you see the oil mist come out of it. It
hasn't had seals in 5 years of use.

I have about 25 or so pneumatic nailers, and I like the oiled guns
because they are easy to find rebuild kits to repair them is
necessary. In fact, when I am in full swing, my fastener guys replace
all soft parts free in my oiled guns when I buy nails and staples from
them.

Because of their reliability and performance, I switched all my gun
purchases over to Bostitch brand over a period of time, and when I
needed a new brad nailer and 15 ga angle nailer, the fastener guys
made me a great deal on the magnesium framed oiless guns. They are
nice. I have trimmed a couple of houses with them, and like my other
Bostitch guns, they performed flawlessly.

The oiless trim guns might be good for some for a couple of reasons.
First, you can't over oil the gun and spew oil mist or have a dirty
drop of oil fall on your project. Second, you don't have to remember
to oil the gun, so you don't worry about blowing out the seals.

The oiless guns cost more, but the last time I bought guns, they were
a LOT more. If I wasn't offered a deal on the guns, I wouldn't
have purchased the oiless.

I think either way you go, you will be fine. I would be more
interested in how the gun feels in my hand, and its reputation for
reliability balanced with price.

I have no beef with the HF brad guns I have. At $10, they were an
excellent buy. If I have an amigo or sub on the job that bursts a
seal on a gun, he can borrow them anytime with no heartburn from me,
and the work on the job can continue. I bought them to be utility
tackers, and they have far exceeded my expectations. At $10 (I think
the door buster price is nnow $14) it came with a bottle of oil, a
cleaning brush(?) and a rebuild kit for the cylinder and trigger.

I think the last time I looked at the Bostitch bradder that was a mag/
oiless, it was about $120 locally.

But CPO has them reconditioned at an excellent price:

http://www.cpobostitch.com/nailers/finishing_nailers/bt200k-2-r.html

For $49, I don't know how you could beat the price if you are looking
at an oiless.

Good luck on your purchase.

Robert


Thanks for the add'l info. I hadn't thought about the chance of oil on the
work. I can see how that might really matter. And no, I didn't get a rain
check. It seems like these things are on sale more than they aren't... of
course that probably only applies to the times I was looking and planning,
not when I'm ready to buy.

Some of what you say makes me think. Should I buy 2 of the HF guns (so I
have a spare when one goes down) or should I go for the Bostitch. (grin)

Ed

"Phisherman" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 23:23:10 -0500, "Ed Edelenbos"
wrote:


None, why buy frustration? Avoid "Made in China."

I have two HF guns "Made in China" that were $20 new and have been used
heavily for three years. No frustration here.

cm

"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...


Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed

I typically don't cut corners on nail guns. I do however have a HF staple
gun that I bought for a specific job and figured that if it lasted past that
I would be ahead of the game. It still works and I am still happy with it.
If you are going to be an occasional user I'd say go for it. Worst case,
you use it a lot and it eventually fails, then you up grade.

And uh Nailshooter is the guy to listen to concerning these particular type
tools. Robert the Bostich framer that I bought per your recommendation is
doing great and is building more fences than I actually like to do. Now if
only there was a post hole digger that could see cables and pipes before you
begin to dig.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...


Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed

I typically don't cut corners on nail guns. I do however have a HF staple
gun that I bought for a specific job and figured that if it lasted past
that I would be ahead of the game. It still works and I am still happy
with it. If you are going to be an occasional user I'd say go for it.
Worst case, you use it a lot and it eventually fails, then you up grade.

And uh Nailshooter is the guy to listen to concerning these particular
type tools. Robert the Bostich framer that I bought per your
recommendation is doing great and is building more fences than I actually
like to do. Now if only there was a post hole digger that could see
cables and pipes before you begin to dig.

Post hole diggers are the one tool I always hope are broken when I go to get
it. The same goes for digging bars. They always seem to be in good shape,
though.

Ed

wrote:

I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
oiling. It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.

What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
tool?

Lew

On Jan 7, 7:20*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
wrote:
I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to

oiling. *It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. *With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.

What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
tool?

Lew

On Jan 7, 7:20*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
wrote:
I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to

oiling. *It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. *With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.

What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
tool?

Lew

I never liked them. In a really high usage application (nailing/
stapling decking, framing, shingling), they don't keep up. Out in the
field, the inherent dust of a jobsite can clog the dispenser. On the
other hand, they can over oil your smaller guns, as all the oil
trapped in the lines has to work out of the lines before an adjustment
will occur at the gun end.

The worst part though, is that a hose used with an oiler is dedicated
to rough work only. It cannot be used with your oiless tools, and
never can be used again for any kind of air supply for finishing.
That hose would be marked well and used by me correctly, but if the
guys load that one in the truck and get set up with it... could be
bad depending on the day's task.

Robert

On Jan 7, 5:12*pm, "Leon" wrote:

And uh Nailshooter is the guy to listen to concerning these particular type
tools. *Robert the Bostich framer that I bought per your recommendation is
doing great and is building more fences than I actually like to do. *Now if
only there was a post hole digger that could see cables and pipes before you
begin to dig.

Glad that bad boy is still getting it done for you, Leon. Think how
many nails you put in a fence shooting on pickets...

Pretty good testimony for Bostitch.

Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!

Robert

I asked:

What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
tool?

answered:

I never liked them. In a really high usage application (nailing/
stapling decking, framing, shingling), they don't keep up. Out in the
field, the inherent dust of a jobsite can clog the dispenser. On the
other hand, they can over oil your smaller guns, as all the oil
trapped in the lines has to work out of the lines before an adjustment
will occur at the gun end.

The worst part though, is that a hose used with an oiler is dedicated
to rough work only. It cannot be used with your oiless tools, and
never can be used again for any kind of air supply for finishing.
That hose would be marked well and used by me correctly, but if the
guys load that one in the truck and get set up with it... could be
bad depending on the day's task.


OK, let's try again since it is obvious I wasn't specific enough with
my first post.

I was specifically referring to in line oilers that attach directly to
the tool..

1-1/4" to 1-1/2" dia, maybe 2" long, clear plastic with a fill screw.

Probably don't hold more than 2 oz of oil.

No back flow so they don't leak oil when just attached to the tool
with no hose attached.

Uses general purpose air that hopefully is dry.

Sorry for the confusion.

Lew

On Jan 7, 10:34*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

I was specifically referring to in line oilers that attach directly to
the tool..

1-1/4" to 1-1/2" dia, maybe 2" long, clear plastic with a fill screw.

Probably don't hold more than 2 oz of oil.

No back flow so they don't leak oil when just attached to the tool
with no hose attached.

Uses general purpose air that hopefully is dry.

We may not be talking about the same thing. I have experience with
these:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat09.html

and their variants. You load it with oil, with the discharge end
pointed at the gun.

Most of the descriptions of this device are paraphrased (swiped from
one of the vendor sites) with "a mist of oil is sprayed into the line
or directly into the gun depending on its location. This mist is
actuated when the gun is fired".

Besides not working well, they were fragile when mounted directly
behind the larger guns and broke often. They also make the smaller
guns awkward to handle with the extra fittings they require. So this
meant mounting the oiler at the other end of the hose, again resulting
in the previously described problems.

I also tried this type model:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?
Itemnumber=40312

It may work well in a shop environment, but again, not in the field.
This one has no choice of installation position, and it must go on the
compressor side of the hose. Again, see the above post.

Those are the only two oilers I have actually tried. Are you thinking
of another one? If you know of a spiffy little oiler that is really
small behind the guns (metal cased) I would love to check it out.

I found the smaller oiler referenced above would be fine for work in
big open places where you could set the gun down out of the way.

The oiler itself is only about 2 1/2" long, but with the additional
fittings for it to hook to your air lines it adds about 6" in total of
inflexible, stiff brass connectors and the oiler to deal with behind
the gun.

I have found it easier to make sure I am the only one that uses my
oiless guns, and to keep several refillable bottles of gun oil around
in the truck and in the gun cases.

Robert

wrote:

We may not be talking about the same thing. I have experience with
these:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat09.html

and their variants.

Close enuf for horse shoes, atom bombs, and inline oilers.

Besides not working well, they were fragile when mounted directly
behind the larger guns and broke often.

I suspected as much.

Your experience matches mine.

It may work well in a shop environment, but again, not in the field.

Only if you baby it.

Are you thinking
of another one?

No, see above.

If you know of a spiffy little oiler that is really
small behind the guns (metal cased) I would love to check it out.

So would I.

I have found it easier to make sure I am the only one that uses my
oiless guns, and to keep several refillable bottles of gun oil around
in the truck and in the gun cases.

Just curious, what do you use for gun oil?

Lew

On Jan 8, 4:26*am, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Just curious, what do you use for gun oil?

Bostitch BC604.

http://tinyurl.com/7xah95

I buy it by the quart when I can and put it in smaller bottles.

You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch. But
oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
learned that one the hard way!)

Most manufacturers have some jobber package the oil for them, and I
think just about every major brand of nailer has their own branded
bottle.

Robert

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

In article , simplfy markem, (sixoneeight)@hotmail wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in *dry*
clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the soil.
You're better off digging by hand.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , simplfy markem,
(sixoneeight)@hotmail wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in
*dry*
clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the
soil.
You're better off digging by hand.

The post hole diggers I have seem to fit my wife's hands better than mine:-)

cm

wrote:

You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch.
But
oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
learned that one the hard way!)

Ever try red tranny fluid?

Was told some suppliers packaged it as air tool oil.

Lew

"Markem" wrote:

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
labor pool located on the corner.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:


One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.


Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
labor pool located on the corner.

Lew



Agreed, for a few holes.

In my area there are a number of contractors with hydraulic augers that
mount on a backhoe/mini excavator's boom arm. The going rate is about
$10 per hole. The minimum number of holes vary but it's usually between
6 and 10. In my opinion it's worth the expense.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
labor pool located on the corner.

Lew

Agreed, or as Jack suggested just rent a backhoe auger. A buddy of mine
and I recently drilled eight 24" holes into the dry Austin Texas clay
and limestone with a two-man 12" auger. Oh. My. GAWD. I may just be a
wimp, but that was the most physically demanding thing I've ever done.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Jan 6, 11:43*pm, "
wrote:
On Jan 6, 10:54*pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Thanks. *I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. *More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. *I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. *They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.

Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.

If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. *As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. *I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.

I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. *They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.

Robert

Ditto that...I got mine for 10 bucks about 6 years ago also....still
works fine. I also have one that came with a small compressor I
purchaed but have never had a need to even get it out of the box.

MArk

"DejaVoodoo" wrote in message
...
On Jan 6, 11:43 pm, "
wrote:
On Jan 6, 10:54 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" wrote:

Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a
high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.

Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.

Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.

If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.

I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.

Robert

Ditto that...I got mine for 10 bucks about 6 years ago also....still
works fine. I also have one that came with a small compressor I
purchaed but have never had a need to even get it out of the box.

MArk

Thanks guys. I went to the other HF (not quite as local but still less than
an hour away) and they had the gun in stock ($20). It is an oiled combo
brad/stapler gun. It'll hold up to 2" brads. I brought it home, read the
manual and shot a few 1" brads. It's everything I need for now.

Ed

"Markem" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.


Actually I have used them and prefer the standard manual labor post hole
digger. The gas operated ones are no better at detecting under ground cable
or pipe. Had I been using one on the last 2 jobs I would have been in a
hellofa mess.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...


How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in
*dry*
clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the
soil.
You're better off digging by hand.


Exactly, we have clay, gumbo in Houston and the gas powered tend to get
stuck if you are not very careful.

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
labor pool located on the corner.

Lew

Agreed, or as Jack suggested just rent a backhoe auger. A buddy of mine
and I recently drilled eight 24" holes into the dry Austin Texas clay and
limestone with a two-man 12" auger. Oh. My. GAWD. I may just be a wimp,
but that was the most physically demanding thing I've ever done.


Yup the 2 man augers are just as much work.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
wrote:

You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch. But
oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
learned that one the hard way!)

Ever try red tranny fluid?



Or Peppermint Oil?

"Leon" wrote:

Actually I have used them and prefer the standard manual labor post
hole digger. The gas operated ones are no better at detecting under
ground cable or pipe. Had I been using one on the last 2 jobs I
would have been in a hellofa mess.


It's up to you to check with the utilities before you dig.

Lew

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
wrote:

You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch. But
oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
learned that one the hard way!)

Ever try red tranny fluid?



Or Peppermint Oil?

I'd been meaning to ask. Aside from the baby ass scent in baby oil, is it OK
to use around the shop as a substitute for mineral oil? Also, I had noticed
its ability to strip grimed surface dirt off finished furniture. Is this
harmful to the finish? (Store bought item; finish unknown, but presumed to
be polyurethane.)

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news
"Leon" wrote:

Actually I have used them and prefer the standard manual labor post hole
digger. The gas operated ones are no better at detecting under ground
cable or pipe. Had I been using one on the last 2 jobs I would have been
in a hellofa mess.


It's up to you to check with the utilities before you dig.

Lew


I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and sewer
will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house you are on
your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there is no requirement
to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks ago at 12". I paid them
to repair the section however they attempted to charge me for a complete
100' replacement. It appears that they were lucky that I reported the cut
and paid for the repair at all as I really did not have to call at all and
they showed up past the required wait period to mark their line.

On Thu, 08 Jan 2009 14:25:10 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , simplfy markem, (sixoneeight)@hotmail wrote:
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!

One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.

How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in *dry*
clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the soil.
You're better off digging by hand.

Was not my experience YMMV.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

Leon wrote:


I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and sewer
will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house you are on
your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there is no requirement
to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks ago at 12". I paid them
to repair the section however they attempted to charge me for a complete
100' replacement. It appears that they were lucky that I reported the cut
and paid for the repair at all as I really did not have to call at all and
they showed up past the required wait period to mark their line.

The "call before you dig" laws vary by state. In NY there is no 16"
stipulation. The only exception to the law is farming.

There are some places where the transcontinental fiber optic cable that
I'm responsible for is at a depth of only 4" deep to cross over other
utilities.


--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Leon" wrote:

I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and
sewer will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house
you are on your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there
is no requirement to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks
ago at 12". I paid them to repair the section however they
attempted to charge me for a complete 100' replacement. It appears
that they were lucky that I reported the cut and paid for the repair
at all as I really did not have to call at all and they showed up
past the required wait period to mark their line.


Don't know about your area, but here in SoCal, the utilities have a
collective 800#, listed as "Call before digging", in the local phone
book, for underground utilities.

I let my principles make the phone calls, so I'm not up to snuff on
the details.

Lew

"MikeWhy" wrote in message
I'd been meaning to ask. Aside from the baby ass scent in baby oil, is it
OK
to use around the shop as a substitute for mineral oil? Also, I had
noticed
its ability to strip grimed surface dirt off finished furniture. Is this
harmful to the finish? (Store bought item; finish unknown, but presumed to
be polyurethane.)

Yes, but buy the unscented baby oil which is readily available at most drug
stores. In fact it's what I used on my entertainment centre a number of
years ago. Minwax gel stain, then the baby oil rubbed in with 0000 steel
wool, finished with wiping everything off. Still looks good.