My Jet cabinet saw was been unusually noisy lately. It has been making a
loud fast knocking noise.

It became especially clear to me when i visited my Dad over thanksgiving an
I noticed how much quieter his Delta contractor saw was.

Simple diagnostics yeilded nothing so I knew that I had to go about it the
hard way... pull of the tables and wings and top.

With the belts off the arbor, turning it by hand I hear some some mild
abrasive white noise thoughout the rotation, and a specific clunk at the
same point in the rotation at each turn. I'm confident that this is the
"knocking" that I head under power.


Here's the rub.... I just replaced the bearings about 6 months ago. Since
the saw was only about 6 years old (just past warantee) I talked Jet into
sending me a new set gratis.

I suppose it's possible that I got a bad bearing, but my lack of experience
in this realm makes me fear mechanic's error.

Is it possible that some slight misalignment (belt pully?) or incorrect belt
tensioning could fry a set of bearings?. This is a major PITA that I hoped
that I would not have to address for a very long time.

Help!

Steve

"C & S" wrote:

I suppose it's possible that I got a bad bearing, but my lack of
experience
in this realm makes me fear mechanic's error.

Is it possible that some slight misalignment (belt pully?) or
incorrect belt
tensioning could fry a set of bearings?. This is a major PITA that I
hoped
that I would not have to address for a very long time.

Proper installation of a ball bearing is critical to successful
operation.

Biggest cause of premature failure of a BB is "brinelling" which
happens when installation forces are transferred from the outer race
thru the ball to the inner race, causing "minute dimples" to be formed
in the raceways.

Not saying that is what happened, but it is a possibility.

You need to make sure you properly install the bearings without the
possibility of brinelling.

Can not comment further without seeing a cross section of the shaft
ass'y.

Lew

Keep us informed.

I have a Jet cabinet saw that is supposedly about a year old. I bought it
used. It's appears in like new condition.

However, when I grap ahold of the blade/arbor, I can feel a few thousands
wobble. I could not feel similar in my 10 year old Delta contractors saw.

I've not yet removed the belts (how do I do that? Is it easy to put back?)

I was thinking if there is ~any~ detectable wobble that is not good.




"C & S" wrote in message
...
My Jet cabinet saw was been unusually noisy lately. It has been making a
loud fast knocking noise.

It became especially clear to me when i visited my Dad over thanksgiving
an
I noticed how much quieter his Delta contractor saw was.

Simple diagnostics yeilded nothing so I knew that I had to go about it the
hard way... pull of the tables and wings and top.

With the belts off the arbor, turning it by hand I hear some some mild
abrasive white noise thoughout the rotation, and a specific clunk at the
same point in the rotation at each turn. I'm confident that this is the
"knocking" that I head under power.


Here's the rub.... I just replaced the bearings about 6 months ago. Since
the saw was only about 6 years old (just past warantee) I talked Jet into
sending me a new set gratis.

I suppose it's possible that I got a bad bearing, but my lack of
experience
in this realm makes me fear mechanic's error.

Is it possible that some slight misalignment (belt pully?) or incorrect
belt
tensioning could fry a set of bearings?. This is a major PITA that I hoped
that I would not have to address for a very long time.

Help!

Steve

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"C & S" wrote:

I suppose it's possible that I got a bad bearing, but my lack of
experience
in this realm makes me fear mechanic's error.

Is it possible that some slight misalignment (belt pully?) or
incorrect belt
tensioning could fry a set of bearings?. This is a major PITA that I
hoped
that I would not have to address for a very long time.

Proper installation of a ball bearing is critical to successful
operation.

Biggest cause of premature failure of a BB is "brinelling" which
happens when installation forces are transferred from the outer race
thru the ball to the inner race, causing "minute dimples" to be formed
in the raceways.

Not saying that is what happened, but it is a possibility.

You need to make sure you properly install the bearings without the
possibility of brinelling.

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your insight. It does indeed make sense to me that
they could have been damaged upon installation.That actually makes a whole
lot more sense than run time damage.


Followup bearing question:

I don't know thing one about bearings. The JET part is BB-6203ZZ. Some
searches suggest that JET/Powermatic/WMH tool group use this part in a wide
variety of woodworking tools. It also appears that 6203ZZ is a generic
precification:

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan..._Code=bearings

http://store.eurtonelectric.com/6200series.aspx

Could it be that 6203ZZ is the entire specification that I need?
From a quality standpoint, might these be interchangable with the Jet (EOM)
part priced at roughly 3-5 times the price?

Thanks,

Steve

I have a Jet cabinet saw that is supposedly about a year old. I bought it
used. It's appears in like new condition.

However, when I grap ahold of the blade/arbor, I can feel a few thousands
wobble. I could not feel similar in my 10 year old Delta contractors saw.

That does not seem right... but the proof is in the pudding. Can you get a
smooth cut cut with a quality blade?

I've not yet removed the belts (how do I do that? Is it easy to put
back?)

It's pretty simple if you have the top off.... but then you can count on
doing a full tuneup (alignment). But if you are considering changing
bearings, you're there already.

It could probably be done from the underside, but it would awkward to say
the least.

I was thinking if there is ~any~ detectable wobble that is not good.

If you like, I can take some interior pictures while it's open/diassembled
..... just email my sawdust address directly.

Regards

Steve

"C & S" wrote:

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your insight. It does indeed make sense to
me that
they could have been damaged upon installation.That actually makes a
whole
lot more sense than run time damage.


Followup bearing question:

I don't know thing one about bearings. The JET part is BB-6203ZZ.
Some
searches suggest that JET/Powermatic/WMH tool group use this part in
a wide
variety of woodworking tools. It also appears that 6203ZZ is a
generic
precification:

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan..._Code=bearings

http://store.eurtonelectric.com/6200series.aspx

Could it be that 6203ZZ is the entire specification that I need?
From a quality standpoint, might these be interchangable with the
Jet (EOM)
part priced at roughly 3-5 times the price?

Your bearing is a basic 203 (20mm or 0.669" bore)
bearing which tells me you have a 5/8" (0.625) shaft.

The ZZ designation specifies the seal/shield configuration.

It is the standard ball bearing used in fractional HP motors,
automotive auto alternators and auto tyrannies.

There are more 203 BB made than all the rest of the BB sizes put
together, thus it is the lowest cost BB made.

Go to a bearing supply house and buy a pair of 203, double sealed BB
and you are good to go.

Brand is unimportant, a 203 is a commodity item.

A piece of advice.

Don't try to install bearings without using an arbor press.

If you do, it is a disaster waiting to happen since it is almost
impossible to install BB without brinelling them unless you follow
correct installation procedures and use an arbor press.

Have fun.

Lew

Correction:

Late at night, brain not completely engaged.

203 BB has 17mm bore, not 20mm as shown below.

0.669" is correct.

Lew


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"C & S" wrote:

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your insight. It does indeed make sense to
me that
they could have been damaged upon installation.That actually makes
a whole
lot more sense than run time damage.


Followup bearing question:

I don't know thing one about bearings. The JET part is BB-6203ZZ.
Some
searches suggest that JET/Powermatic/WMH tool group use this part
in a wide
variety of woodworking tools. It also appears that 6203ZZ is a
generic
precification:

http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan..._Code=bearings

http://store.eurtonelectric.com/6200series.aspx

Could it be that 6203ZZ is the entire specification that I need?
From a quality standpoint, might these be interchangable with the
Jet (EOM)
part priced at roughly 3-5 times the price?

Your bearing is a basic 203 (20mm or 0.669" bore)
bearing which tells me you have a 5/8" (0.625) shaft.

The ZZ designation specifies the seal/shield configuration.

It is the standard ball bearing used in fractional HP motors,
automotive auto alternators and auto tyrannies.

There are more 203 BB made than all the rest of the BB sizes put
together, thus it is the lowest cost BB made.

Go to a bearing supply house and buy a pair of 203, double sealed BB
and you are good to go.

Brand is unimportant, a 203 is a commodity item.

A piece of advice.

Don't try to install bearings without using an arbor press.

If you do, it is a disaster waiting to happen since it is almost
impossible to install BB without brinelling them unless you follow
correct installation procedures and use an arbor press.

Have fun.

Lew

I'm so muchly obliged. That's great info.

Now I just have to pigure out where in a small rural community I can some
soemone with an arbor press.

Thanks again.

Steve



"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Correction:

Late at night, brain not completely engaged.

203 BB has 17mm bore, not 20mm as shown below.

0.669" is correct.

Lew


"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"C & S" wrote:

Thanks Lew, I appreciate your insight. It does indeed make sense to
me that
they could have been damaged upon installation.That actually makes
a whole
lot more sense than run time damage.


Followup bearing question:

I don't know thing one about bearings. The JET part is BB-6203ZZ.
Some
searches suggest that JET/Powermatic/WMH tool group use this part
in a wide
variety of woodworking tools. It also appears that 6203ZZ is a
generic
precification:


http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchan..._Code=bearings

http://store.eurtonelectric.com/6200series.aspx

Could it be that 6203ZZ is the entire specification that I need?
From a quality standpoint, might these be interchangable with the
Jet (EOM)
part priced at roughly 3-5 times the price?

Your bearing is a basic 203 (20mm or 0.669" bore)
bearing which tells me you have a 5/8" (0.625) shaft.

The ZZ designation specifies the seal/shield configuration.

It is the standard ball bearing used in fractional HP motors,
automotive auto alternators and auto tyrannies.

There are more 203 BB made than all the rest of the BB sizes put
together, thus it is the lowest cost BB made.

Go to a bearing supply house and buy a pair of 203, double sealed BB
and you are good to go.

Brand is unimportant, a 203 is a commodity item.

A piece of advice.

Don't try to install bearings without using an arbor press.

If you do, it is a disaster waiting to happen since it is almost
impossible to install BB without brinelling them unless you follow
correct installation procedures and use an arbor press.

Have fun.

Lew

"C & S" wrote in message
...
My Jet cabinet saw was been unusually noisy lately. It has been making a
loud fast knocking noise.

It became especially clear to me when i visited my Dad over thanksgiving
an
I noticed how much quieter his Delta contractor saw was.

Simple diagnostics yeilded nothing so I knew that I had to go about it the
hard way... pull of the tables and wings and top.

With the belts off the arbor, turning it by hand I hear some some mild
abrasive white noise thoughout the rotation, and a specific clunk at the
same point in the rotation at each turn. I'm confident that this is the
"knocking" that I head under power.


I have heard this noise come from a loose pulley also. Not loose to feel or
by sight, but loosening the pully set screws and insuring that they are on
top of the key and retightening solved the problem.

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 07:48:41 -0600, "Leon" wrote:


I have heard this noise come from a loose pulley also. Not loose to feel or
by sight, but loosening the pully set screws and insuring that they are on
top of the key and retightening solved the problem.

Yep.. had that experience with my jet 1442VS lathe..

I was sure that the spindle bearings were shot, but decided to try a tuneup
first..

The bottom pulley was slightly off of the indentation for the set screw and the
leading edge of the key showed rounding..
Replaced the key and set screw and the noise went away..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"C & S" wrote in message
...
I'm so muchly obliged. That's great info.

Now I just have to pigure out where in a small rural community I can some
soemone with an arbor press.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3552

"C & S" wrote:

Now I just have to pigure out where in a small rural community I can
some
soemone with an arbor press.

My bet is some of the local farmers have a shop equipped with an arbor
press.

When you start shelling out $150K-$300K for a tractor and/or other
pieces of farm equipment, you probably have a shop to maintain that
equipment.

Do you have an automotive machine shop in your area?

Lew

On Dec 6, 12:54*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

When you start shelling out $150K-$300K for a tractor and/or other
pieces of farm equipment, you probably have a shop to maintain that
equipment.

Lew

Nah, just some old sockets you can hammer on, pieces of pipe, etc.,
brass square stock maybe at best. Find one thats slightly smaller than
the outer race and grab the three pound sledge. If that dont work just
get some emery paper and sand the shaft/gland a bit till it pounds in
there. My favorite farmer/mechanic line is "it will wear in". Lot of
big tractors around here and I have yet to see to many shops (even the
tractor dealers) with what I would think of as "a shop".

Yuk yuk,

Mark

Ding ding ding! we have a winner.

Mac, I owe you an adult beverage.

The set screws were loose on the pully and that was causing the "clunk". I
must admit that I don't understand the geometry the rattle as I would expect
belt tension would hold the pully to one side of a sloppy keyway but
tightening it made the noise go away.

It's all back together and I did not have to pull apart the arbor assembly
which is the dicey part due to lack of proper tooling.

I learned a little bit about bearings and I'm getting more confident and
efficient about breaking down the saw and getting it back together and
aligned. So, it's all good. The beast was only "down" for a day and a half.
with about 3 hours of break down setup and alignment.

Thanks all,

Steve



"mac davis" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 07:48:41 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


I have heard this noise come from a loose pulley also. Not loose to feel
or
by sight, but loosening the pully set screws and insuring that they are
on
top of the key and retightening solved the problem.

Yep.. had that experience with my jet 1442VS lathe..

I was sure that the spindle bearings were shot, but decided to try a
tuneup
first..

The bottom pulley was slightly off of the indentation for the set screw
and the
leading edge of the key showed rounding..
Replaced the key and set screw and the noise went away..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 7 Dec 2008 09:00:40 -0500, "C & S"
wrote:

That's really cool, Steve...
And a lot of what these groups are all about..

I didn't think that the pulley/key could have caused the noise on the lathe,
just something I noticed when I pulled it apart and figured that I might as well
fix it..
I was amazed when the "bearing" noise went away... kept waiting for it to come
back, but hasn't in a LOT of hours on the lathe..

Ding ding ding! we have a winner.

Mac, I owe you an adult beverage.

The set screws were loose on the pully and that was causing the "clunk". I
must admit that I don't understand the geometry the rattle as I would expect
belt tension would hold the pully to one side of a sloppy keyway but
tightening it made the noise go away.

It's all back together and I did not have to pull apart the arbor assembly
which is the dicey part due to lack of proper tooling.

I learned a little bit about bearings and I'm getting more confident and
efficient about breaking down the saw and getting it back together and
aligned. So, it's all good. The beast was only "down" for a day and a half.
with about 3 hours of break down setup and alignment.

Thanks all,

Steve



"mac davis" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 07:48:41 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


I have heard this noise come from a loose pulley also. Not loose to feel
or
by sight, but loosening the pully set screws and insuring that they are
on
top of the key and retightening solved the problem.

Yep.. had that experience with my jet 1442VS lathe..

I was sure that the spindle bearings were shot, but decided to try a
tuneup
first..

The bottom pulley was slightly off of the indentation for the set screw
and the
leading edge of the key showed rounding..
Replaced the key and set screw and the noise went away..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I learned a little bit about bearings and I'm getting more confident
and efficient about breaking down the saw and getting it back
together and aligned. So, it's all good. The beast was only "down"
for a day and a half. with about 3 hours of break down setup and
alignment.

Thanks all,

Steve


This usenet group still seems to work, which is why I hang out and have
left other groups. I suspect it's because there are a lot of FOG's in
here who like the simplicity of the format of usenet (like I do).

I can't tell you how many times I've torn something apart to fix, what I
though was a problem, only to have it be something else.... most often,
a much more simple fix. In the long run, though, I'm thankful for that
inquisitive spirit in me that causes me to "crack the box" and look
inside because I always end up learning a lot in the process.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"C & S" wrote:

Ding ding ding! we have a winner.

Mac, I owe you an adult beverage.

The set screws were loose on the pully and that was causing the
"clunk".

Glad to see it was a simple solution.

Hint:

Now would be a good time for an application of some LocTitegrin

Lew

On Sun, 07 Dec 2008 19:20:05 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

"C & S" wrote:

Ding ding ding! we have a winner.

Mac, I owe you an adult beverage.

The set screws were loose on the pully and that was causing the
"clunk".

Glad to see it was a simple solution.

Hint:

Now would be a good time for an application of some LocTitegrin

Lew


I think it's also a time to remind ourselves that periodic checking and
maintenance can save a lot of stress and money in the long run..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Call these folks and get some decent replacements not made
in a garage in India.

http://www.accuratebearing.com/

C & S wrote:
My Jet cabinet saw was been unusually noisy lately. It has been making a
loud fast knocking noise.

On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 21:03:44 GMT, Pat Barber
wrote:

Call these folks and get some decent replacements not made
in a garage in India.

http://www.accuratebearing.com/

C & S wrote:
My Jet cabinet saw was been unusually noisy lately. It has been making a
loud fast knocking noise.


Insist on NTN - highest quality, quietest running. Known throughout
the electric motor industry.