I recently made a sheet goods storage thing. It is 4' high x 8' long x 2'
wide and is divided lengthwise into two 1' wide sections.

The center divider is a full sheet of 4x8x3/4 ply; the outboard sides are
the same thing but with the ply ripped diagonally. Each of those have
vertical 2x3s screwed and glued along the bottoms of the ply. The bottoms
of each 12" compartment are 3/4 ply glued and screwed to the top edge of the
2x3s to hold the two sections together. There is also a 3/4 ply back
attached to the vertical pieces of ply but not to the bottoms. Front is
open (naturally The whole works is on casters.

I figured the bottom would deflect some once I loaded it but not as much as
it does. The center across the 24" dimension is close to 1/2" lower than
the outboard edges. The deflection is more than enough to deflect the
center vertical axis of the casters so the thing won't roll.

Obviously, I need to beef up the bottom in the 24" direction, i.e., across
the width. The question is, with what?

I've considered three things:
1. 2-4 pieces of 5/4 white oak maybe 6" wide
2. 2-4 pieces of white oak about 2 1/2" wide but on edge
3. 2-4 pieces of angle iron.

I'd love some input. If you say "iron", what size would you suggest and
would it be better attached in an inverted "L" or "V" position?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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"dadiOH" wrote

2. 2-4 pieces of white oak about 2 1/2" wide but on edge

The above, only use scrap plywood ... should ultimately be stiffer than
cross grain wood.

Try it ... if it doesn't do the trick, go for angle iron or square tubing.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

The center across the 24" dimension is close to 1/2" lower than
the outboard edges. *The deflection is more than enough to deflect the
center vertical axis of the casters so the thing won't roll.

You could consider also consider trussing it with a steel rod that is
threaded on each end much the way that step ladder threads are
strengthened.

- mkaras

In article ,
"Swingman" wrote:

"dadiOH" wrote

2. 2-4 pieces of white oak about 2 1/2" wide but on edge

The above, only use scrap plywood ... should ultimately be stiffer than
cross grain wood.

Try it ... if it doesn't do the trick, go for angle iron or square tubing.

The easy thing would be to put a couple more casters in the
center...Probably one in the middle of the cart and one at each end.

This will solve the bow in the middle problem and take some weight off
the existing casters. Make sure you get some the swivel easily - so as
you tow the cart around the middle casters don;t lock up.

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 14:49:00 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

I recently made a sheet goods storage thing. It is 4' high x 8' long x 2'
wide and is divided lengthwise into two 1' wide sections.

The center divider is a full sheet of 4x8x3/4 ply; the outboard sides are
the same thing but with the ply ripped diagonally. Each of those have
vertical 2x3s screwed and glued along the bottoms of the ply. The bottoms
of each 12" compartment are 3/4 ply glued and screwed to the top edge of the
2x3s to hold the two sections together. There is also a 3/4 ply back
attached to the vertical pieces of ply but not to the bottoms. Front is
open (naturally The whole works is on casters.

I figured the bottom would deflect some once I loaded it but not as much as
it does. The center across the 24" dimension is close to 1/2" lower than
the outboard edges. The deflection is more than enough to deflect the
center vertical axis of the casters so the thing won't roll.

Obviously, I need to beef up the bottom in the 24" direction, i.e., across
the width. The question is, with what?

I've considered three things:
1. 2-4 pieces of 5/4 white oak maybe 6" wide
2. 2-4 pieces of white oak about 2 1/2" wide but on edge
3. 2-4 pieces of angle iron.

I'd love some input. If you say "iron", what size would you suggest and
would it be better attached in an inverted "L" or "V" position?

The angle iron seems to be the best/easiest solution, although
probably not the cheapest. Drill holes every 4" along one edge and
fasten in the "L" position with wood screws.

I like using a lip around the bottom edge of shelves to stop
deflection. For example, I use a 1.5" x3/4" white oak piece, rabbet a
corner, glue, drive finish nails or clamp and allow to cure overnight.
You will have to take off a little of the shelf to allow space for the
lip. A lip on the back side will add more strength to resist bending.
Of course this method can work better during the construction phase.

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 19:26:29 -0500, Doug Houseman
wrote:

In article ,
"Swingman" wrote:

"dadiOH" wrote

2. 2-4 pieces of white oak about 2 1/2" wide but on edge

The above, only use scrap plywood ... should ultimately be stiffer than
cross grain wood.

Try it ... if it doesn't do the trick, go for angle iron or square tubing.

The easy thing would be to put a couple more casters in the
center...Probably one in the middle of the cart and one at each end.

This will solve the bow in the middle problem and take some weight off
the existing casters. Make sure you get some the swivel easily - so as
you tow the cart around the middle casters don;t lock up.


I like this solution!

Thank you all for your thoughts. I'll probably add a couple of casters on
the center line. If I were starting anew, I'd probably try the steel rod
truss idea...the physics of it appeals to me

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico