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Phisherman[_2_] Phisherman[_2_] is offline
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Default Angle iron or oak?

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 14:49:00 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

I recently made a sheet goods storage thing. It is 4' high x 8' long x 2'
wide and is divided lengthwise into two 1' wide sections.

The center divider is a full sheet of 4x8x3/4 ply; the outboard sides are
the same thing but with the ply ripped diagonally. Each of those have
vertical 2x3s screwed and glued along the bottoms of the ply. The bottoms
of each 12" compartment are 3/4 ply glued and screwed to the top edge of the
2x3s to hold the two sections together. There is also a 3/4 ply back
attached to the vertical pieces of ply but not to the bottoms. Front is
open (naturally The whole works is on casters.

I figured the bottom would deflect some once I loaded it but not as much as
it does. The center across the 24" dimension is close to 1/2" lower than
the outboard edges. The deflection is more than enough to deflect the
center vertical axis of the casters so the thing won't roll.

Obviously, I need to beef up the bottom in the 24" direction, i.e., across
the width. The question is, with what?

I've considered three things:
1. 2-4 pieces of 5/4 white oak maybe 6" wide
2. 2-4 pieces of white oak about 2 1/2" wide but on edge
3. 2-4 pieces of angle iron.

I'd love some input. If you say "iron", what size would you suggest and
would it be better attached in an inverted "L" or "V" position?


The angle iron seems to be the best/easiest solution, although
probably not the cheapest. Drill holes every 4" along one edge and
fasten in the "L" position with wood screws.

I like using a lip around the bottom edge of shelves to stop
deflection. For example, I use a 1.5" x3/4" white oak piece, rabbet a
corner, glue, drive finish nails or clamp and allow to cure overnight.
You will have to take off a little of the shelf to allow space for the
lip. A lip on the back side will add more strength to resist bending.
Of course this method can work better during the construction phase.