I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Just to be clear, is this table for outdoors or indoors?

Yes, you want an oil finish. No you don't want a Poly finish. Poly is
a film finish and is not going to have the application attributes you
want. Even a wiping poly (poly with 50% or more thinner) is still a
film finish and can give you problems in gettin a good finish unless
you are practiced.

Pure or true oil finishes will polymerize and build some level of film
finish but not to anywhere near the hardness of a poly. I would
suggest true Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) thinned with mineral
spirits or turpentine. You will likely want to do a few coats with a
day in between or as the can suggests. For a full description try
looking here.

http://www.refinishfurniture.com/tung_oil_finish.htm


On Nov 18, 9:17*pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

On Nov 18, 11:23 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Just to be clear, is this table for outdoors or indoors?

Yes, you want an oil finish. No you don't want a Poly finish. Poly is
a film finish and is not going to have the application attributes you
want. Even a wiping poly (poly with 50% or more thinner) is still a
film finish and can give you problems in gettin a good finish unless
you are practiced.

Pure or true oil finishes will polymerize and build some level of film
finish but not to anywhere near the hardness of a poly. I would
suggest true Tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) thinned with mineral
spirits or turpentine. You will likely want to do a few coats with a
day in between or as the can suggests. For a full description try
looking here.

http://www.refinishfurniture.com/tung_oil_finish.htm

On Nov 18, 9:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:

I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

The dining table is indoors.

Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why do you
want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely lacquer, maybe
oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film - lacquer or other -
all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Nov 19, 4:31 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why do you
want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely lacquer, maybe
oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film - lacquer or other -
all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

You make a very good point. When I said, "Well finished, ready to go,"
all I meant was that
I did not make this table, that it is a commercial product. I'm
ignorant of what manufacturers of teak furniture do as to applying a
finish. Maybe all manufacturers of wood furniture apply some kind of
protective coating to their products. You indicate that they do.

All I meant by "well finished" is that the craftsmanship is excellent.
I don't know if I have the raw wood or whether it's already treated,
as you suggest. And, your point is well taken. I don't want to mess
with it if I don't have to. Thanks. You're very helpful.

Empedocles wrote:
On Nov 19, 4:31 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

If it's a "new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go" why
do you want to mess with it? The finish already on it - most likely
lacquer, maybe oil) already protects it. If the finish *is* a film
- lacquer or other - all adding oil to it would do is mess it up.


You make a very good point. When I said, "Well finished, ready to go,"
all I meant was that
I did not make this table, that it is a commercial product. I'm
ignorant of what manufacturers of teak furniture do as to applying a
finish. Maybe all manufacturers of wood furniture apply some kind of
protective coating to their products. You indicate that they do.

All I meant by "well finished" is that the craftsmanship is excellent.
I don't know if I have the raw wood or whether it's already treated,
as you suggest. And, your point is well taken. I don't want to mess
with it if I don't have to. Thanks. You're very helpful.

Spit on it. Wood change color? If not, it has a finish. 100:1 it does.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Empedocles" wrote:

I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc.

Scott's Liquid Gold worked well on the Teak and Holly sole of my
sailboat.

Apply 2-3 times a year or as desired.

Lew

On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Thanks to all for responding. You have been helpful.

I contacted the seller of my teak table, who said to use teak oil from
a Danish supplier. The only way I could get that oil would require a
trip from MT to the seller in Seattle, so I contacted a Danish company
that supplies that oil & ordered a couple of bottles (the minimum).

The seller said that only a light app of lacquer is applied by the
manufacturer, and that no harm would be done in applying the oil.

"Empedocles" wrote in message
...
On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Thanks to all for responding. You have been helpful.

I contacted the seller of my teak table, who said to use teak oil from
a Danish supplier. The only way I could get that oil would require a
trip from MT to the seller in Seattle, so I contacted a Danish company
that supplies that oil & ordered a couple of bottles (the minimum).

The seller said that only a light app of lacquer is applied by the
manufacturer, and that no harm would be done in applying the oil.

Which is why you never trust the seller to know anything more than the
price.
Probably heard of teak oil at some point and figured it must be what you
have to use on teak furniture.
"no harm would be done" is not the same as the doing the right thing, or
even doing things right. As DadiOh posted, if it's got a lacquer finish
(even a thin one), you don't want to put oil over it.

Just a lot of salesman double talk.

Take DadiOh's advice and don't mess with it.

jc

On Nov 19, 3:17 pm, "joe" wrote:
"Empedocles" wrote in message

...



On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Thanks to all for responding. You have been helpful.

I contacted the seller of my teak table, who said to use teak oil from
a Danish supplier. The only way I could get that oil would require a
trip from MT to the seller in Seattle, so I contacted a Danish company
that supplies that oil & ordered a couple of bottles (the minimum).

The seller said that only a light app of lacquer is applied by the
manufacturer, and that no harm would be done in applying the oil.

Which is why you never trust the seller to know anything more than the
price.
Probably heard of teak oil at some point and figured it must be what you
have to use on teak furniture.
"no harm would be done" is not the same as the doing the right thing, or
even doing things right. As DadiOh posted, if it's got a lacquer finish
(even a thin one), you don't want to put oil over it.

Just a lot of salesman double talk.

Take DadiOh's advice and don't mess with it.

jc

Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
Pretty good sideline. By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
dining table runs over $3,500.

Empedocles wrote:

Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
Pretty good sideline.

I'd say so since "teak oil" is nothing more than either linseed or tung oil
with more solvent. You could make your own for around $15 a gallon or less.
Used to be $5.00 not long ago.
_____________________

By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
dining table runs over $3,500.

Now I see why they charge $20 for a bottle of "teak oil"

Last time I looked for teak it was running around $15/bd.ft. retail. Thirty+
years ago it was $1.35 bd.ft. One can still buy it for $1200 cu.meter -
which works out to less than 3 bucks per board foot - from Burmese
exporters.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Nov 20, 6:20 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Empedocles wrote:
Thanks, guys, altho I'm out $40 for two bottles of teak oil I'll never
use. I imagine this seller has suckered in a lot of people like me.
Pretty good sideline.

I'd say so since "teak oil" is nothing more than either linseed or tung oil
with more solvent. You could make your own for around $15 a gallon or less.
Used to be $5.00 not long ago.
_____________________

By the way, this seller is not a fly-by-night,
been in the Seattle area many yrs., specializing in Danish modern.
Adds to its credibility. Teak is such a beautiful, tough, durable
wood. Ran across it in owning a couple of sailboats. My furniture now
is teak. Some of it is teak veneer, but that's ok. A small solid teak
dining table runs over $3,500.

Now I see why they charge $20 for a bottle of "teak oil"

Last time I looked for teak it was running around $15/bd.ft. retail. Thirty+
years ago it was $1.35 bd.ft. One can still buy it for $1200 cu.meter -
which works out to less than 3 bucks per board foot - from Burmese
exporters.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH, you've been helpful, but need some more comment what an
untreated teak surface looks like. For example, my teak office
furniture (veneer) from a different maker has a satin look. I know
it's been treated, but the new dining table is completely flat, finish-
wise. (The dining table's main surface is veneer, trimmed in solid
teak blocks on the edge. The table is round.)

If, as the seller says, the maker put a light app of lacquer on the
table, would that account for the flat finish, leading me to believe
it's untreated, in comparison to my other teak furniture?

On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.

When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.

Unless someone warns me SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.

David

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 10:23:44 -0800 (PST), Empedocles
wrote:

On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.

When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.

Unless someone warns me SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.

David



I still suggest that for best results and no regrets, you should
contact the manufacturer. That would be very simple, easy and prevent
possible problems. I can't think of a downside to asking the person
who made the furniture, how to best care for it.

On Nov 22, 2:03 pm, wrote:
On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 10:23:44 -0800 (PST), Empedocles



wrote:
On Nov 18, 10:17 pm, Empedocles wrote:
I have a new teak dining table, well finished, & ready to go. I want
to protect the surface from spills, etc. I thought to buy teak oil,
but reading posts elsewhere, it doesn't do much to give the kind of
protection I want. There is a combination tung/teak oil product & I
wonder about using that.

What I want is a product I can wipe on with a rag & wipe off the
excess, but which will still give me the protection. I don't want to
sand/steel wool between coats. I just want one application to
initially seal the porous wood. This is asking a lot.

Here are some choices I've run across & I'd like someone's opinion/
experience with. I'd really like it if I can find the product in my
local Ace Hardware, Home Depot, etc.:

Oil/Varnish mixtures like Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish, Minwax
Tung Oil Finish, Watco Danish Oil, etc.

Thinnned or Wiping Varnishes like Minway (Minwax?) Wiping Varnish,
Watco Wiping Varnish, Formby's Tung Oil Finish, etc.

I've also thought of a polyurethane satin, as I don't want a sheen,
but polyurethane application is with a brush, producing bubble
problems & I don't want to deal with that.

I've thought of Thompson's Water Seal, but that may leave an
unpleasant odor.

Would appreciate any opinions/experiences. I'm a novice.

Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.

When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.

Unless someone warns me SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.

David

I still suggest that for best results and no regrets, you should
contact the manufacturer. That would be very simple, easy and prevent
possible problems. I can't think of a downside to asking the person
who made the furniture, how to best care for it.

I'm going to try & contact the maker. But, my only contact is the
seller in Seattle (I live in MT, BTW). I think the seller is the
importer & the maker is in Thailand, so it's going to be difficult to
talk to the maker (I think). Anyway, I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

Empedocles wrote:


Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.

When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.

Unless someone warns me SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.

David

You stated "no oil". Scott's Liquid Gold is primarily an oil.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Nov 22, 7:09 pm, Nova wrote:
Empedocles wrote:

Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.

When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.

Unless someone warns me SLG, I think that's what I'm going to use.

David

You stated "no oil". Scott's Liquid Gold is primarily an oil.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


Thanks for correcting me. Shows how much I know. I guess the appeal of
SLG is that it has no alcohol or silicone in it. Yet, I think it's
better than just teak or tung oil & cheaper. I could be corrected.

Empedocles wrote:
On Nov 22, 7:09 pm, Nova wrote:
Empedocles wrote:

Everyone here has been helpful, esp. dadiOH. Lew Hodgett suggested
Scott's Liquid Gold (SLG) & I've done some research, based on what
dadiOH told me Do not apply a product containing alcohol over a
lacquer finish. SLG's ingredients do not include alcohol; it is a
naphtha-based product.

When my seller warned me not to use Pledge-type products, I vaguely
remembered something silicone. Sure enough, Pledge has silicone.
After dadiOH's information tung/teak, etc., oils & how they're
marketed, I've decided: No alcohol, no silicone, no oil.

Unless someone warns me SLG, I think that's what I'm going to
use.

David

You stated "no oil". Scott's Liquid Gold is primarily an oil.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


Thanks for correcting me. Shows how much I know. I guess the appeal of
SLG is that it has no alcohol or silicone in it. Yet, I think it's
better than just teak or tung oil & cheaper. I could be corrected.

I have no idea what it is but you need nothing - repeat, nothing - on the
table as it is already finished.

--

dadiOH
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