I am working on a kitchen job and am currently varnishing the doors. Always
a PIA but not this time. My TS has an 18 roller out feed extension table
that makes a great location to paint/varnish the backs of the cabinet doors.
Because 90% of the cabinet doors that I build have a
rounded/chamfered/styled front perimeter edge the edges of the door do not
come in contact with the surface it is on until it is turned over.
Basically the paint/varnish does not come in contact with the table or work
surface. Moving the piece can be troublesome however. I discovered that
the roller out feed table makes a great place to paint the doors and affords
me the ability to roll the door to one end or the other to paint the edges
and it allows me to reach from beneath to carry the door to another location
with out getting paint on my hands.

Today I picked up a set of painters pyramids, those small plastic things the
allow you set the door on top of them with the door elevated a couple of
inches so that you can paint the edges, or reach underneath to move the
piece after painting. Wow what a simple solution that works really really
well. I wish that they had been available or that I had known about them
about 300 doors ago. Yes I had been using small blocks of wood, etc but
these only make contact in a very small area on the bottoms and are less
likely to disturb a finish that is not totally cured yet. $6 for 10.

"Leon" wrote:

Today I picked up a set of painters pyramids, those small plastic things
the allow you set the door on top of them with the door elevated a
couple of inches so that you can paint the edges, or reach underneath to
move the piece after painting. Wow what a simple solution that works
really really well. I wish that they had been available or that I had
known about them about 300 doors ago. Yes I had been using small blocks
of wood, etc but these only make contact in a very small area on the
bottoms and are less likely to disturb a finish that is not totally cured
yet. $6 for 10.

AAMOF, I learned the following "poor painter's pyramid" about 2000 years
ago:

Scrap plywood "blocks", 2" x 2" square, with a 3" drywall screw through the
middle of each.

Use four of the blocks (with the screw tip up, Woodie!) to lay your work
piece on.

And make a few dozen while you're at it .... easy and cheap!



--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Oct 20, 9:25*am, "Swingman" wrote:

AAMOF, I learned the following "poor painter's pyramid" about 2000 years
ago:

Scrap plywood "blocks", 2" x 2" square, with a 3" drywall screw through the
middle of each.

The next progression:

For kitchen/bath cabinets, drill a small hole in the top or bottom
(depending on the location of the door) of the rail on the unseen
edge.

Put a tiny hook in the wood and hand it on a "clothesline" in your
shop. Finish on one end of the line, and then slide the wet door to
the other side out of line of fire to dry. Applying finish to both
sides at once, you cut your finishing time in half.

No one sees the tiny hole in the top of a 42" cabinet door when the
hook is removed, or the bottom of a regular full sized base cab door.
I don't even fill them.

Robert

wrote in message
...
On Oct 20, 9:25 am, "Swingman" wrote:

AAMOF, I learned the following "poor painter's pyramid" about 2000 years
ago:

Scrap plywood "blocks", 2" x 2" square, with a 3" drywall screw through
the
middle of each.

The next progression:

For kitchen/bath cabinets, drill a small hole in the top or bottom
(depending on the location of the door) of the rail on the unseen
edge.

Put a tiny hook in the wood and hand it on a "clothesline" in your
shop. Finish on one end of the line, and then slide the wet door to
the other side out of line of fire to dry. Applying finish to both
sides at once, you cut your finishing time in half.

No one sees the tiny hole in the top of a 42" cabinet door when the
hook is removed, or the bottom of a regular full sized base cab door.
I don't even fill them.


Actually I considered using cut coat hanger wire to hang the doors from by
hooking them in the 35mm hole for the hinges but General Finishes Arm-R-Seal
goes on pretty think with a foam brush, 2 coats is typically all that is
needed. Hanging, I would have runs.

On Oct 20, 10:49*am, "Leon" wrote:

Actually I considered using cut coat hanger wire to hang the doors from by
hooking them in the 35mm hole for the hinges but General Finishes Arm-R-Seal
goes on pretty think with a foam brush, 2 coats is typically all that is
needed. *Hanging, I would have runs.

Leon old salt, one day we have to get ya sprayin'. As much work as
you do I don't know how you have been able to stay away from a low
power HVLP. Even the conversion guns these days are pretty damn good,
and you don't need to buy a whole system.

Once you use a gun that is set up properly with the correct viscosity
of material in it, you will truly wonder why you didn't switch sooner.
And honestly, it just isn't that hard.

Imagine going over to Swing's house on Saturday. "Whatcha doin'?"

"Foamin' on some finish."

"Still?" (For effect, take a long thoughtful pull off your adult
beverage.)

"Yeah. Should be finished by tomorrow if I stay on it. I should be
able to flip these later this afternoon."

(You hoist your pants up and look thoughtful.)
Welp... I finished all of my final coats yesterday and just thought
I'd stop by and see if you might want to go to the Festool liquidation
sale I heard about... but if you're busy...."

You could get some mileage out it as well as making your life easier!

Robert
That might cause some panic!

wrote in message
...
On Oct 20, 10:49 am, "Leon" wrote:

Leon old salt, one day we have to get ya sprayin'. As much work as
you do I don't know how you have been able to stay away from a low
power HVLP. Even the conversion guns these days are pretty damn good,
and you don't need to buy a whole system.


Once you use a gun that is set up properly with the correct viscosity
of material in it, you will truly wonder why you didn't switch sooner.
And honestly, it just isn't that hard.


Imagine going over to Swing's house on Saturday. "Whatcha doin'?"

"Foamin' on some finish."

"Still?" (For effect, take a long thoughtful pull off your adult
beverage.)

"Yeah. Should be finished by tomorrow if I stay on it. I should be
able to flip these later this afternoon."

(You hoist your pants up and look thoughtful.)
Welp... I finished all of my final coats yesterday and just thought
I'd stop by and see if you might want to go to the Festool liquidation
sale I heard about... but if you're busy...."

You could get some mileage out it as well as making your life easier!

Robert
That might cause some panic!


Thanks for the mental picture, ;~) I should probably start spray'n but old
habits are hard to break.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...



AAMOF, I learned the following "poor painter's pyramid" about 2000 years
ago:

Scrap plywood "blocks", 2" x 2" square, with a 3" drywall screw through
the middle of each.

Use four of the blocks (with the screw tip up, Woodie!) to lay your work
piece on.

And make a few dozen while you're at it .... easy and cheap!


I usta do that too but the points on the dry wall screws could and sometimes
did leave small holes, the pyramids are blunt pointed and allow for moving
the piece around on top of them if needed with out scratching the bottom
surface.

"Leon" wrote

I usta do that too but the points on the dry wall screws could and
sometimes did leave small holes, the pyramids are blunt pointed and allow
for moving the piece around on top of them if needed with out scratching
the bottom surface.

Once the screw is screwed in, I've got a file for rent!

g, d & r)

--
Karl A. Caillouet
Construction Manager
Palomino Enterprises, LLC
Cell 281-414-0127
Fax 713-664-1393

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote

I usta do that too but the points on the dry wall screws could and
sometimes did leave small holes, the pyramids are blunt pointed and allow
for moving the piece around on top of them if needed with out scratching
the bottom surface.

Once the screw is screwed in, I've got a file for rent!

g, d & r)



You are get'n way too far a head of me. ;~)

"Leon" wrote in
:


"Swingman" wrote in message
...



AAMOF, I learned the following "poor painter's pyramid" about 2000
years ago:

Scrap plywood "blocks", 2" x 2" square, with a 3" drywall screw
through the middle of each.

Use four of the blocks (with the screw tip up, Woodie!) to lay your
work piece on.

And make a few dozen while you're at it .... easy and cheap!


I usta do that too but the points on the dry wall screws could and
sometimes did leave small holes, the pyramids are blunt pointed and
allow for moving the piece around on top of them if needed with out
scratching the bottom surface.



Instead of drywall screws (very sharp), you could try 16D nails. They
still come to a point, but aren't quite as sharp. You still risk dents
and dimples in those locations, but that's a problem no matter what you
use.

Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Try a handful of Golf Tees. Poke them through the holes in a scrap
piece of pegboard.

Leon wrote:
I am working on a kitchen job and am currently varnishing the doors. Always
a PIA but not this time. My TS has an 18 roller out feed extension table
that makes a great location to paint/varnish the backs of the cabinet doors.
Because 90% of the cabinet doors that I build have a
rounded/chamfered/styled front perimeter edge the edges of the door do not
come in contact with the surface it is on until it is turned over.
Basically the paint/varnish does not come in contact with the table or work
surface. Moving the piece can be troublesome however. I discovered that
the roller out feed table makes a great place to paint the doors and affords
me the ability to roll the door to one end or the other to paint the edges
and it allows me to reach from beneath to carry the door to another location
with out getting paint on my hands.

Today I picked up a set of painters pyramids, those small plastic things the
allow you set the door on top of them with the door elevated a couple of
inches so that you can paint the edges, or reach underneath to move the
piece after painting. Wow what a simple solution that works really really
well. I wish that they had been available or that I had known about them
about 300 doors ago. Yes I had been using small blocks of wood, etc but
these only make contact in a very small area on the bottoms and are less
likely to disturb a finish that is not totally cured yet. $6 for 10.

"Ron Farren" wrote in message
m...
Try a handful of Golf Tees. Poke them through the holes in a scrap piece
of pegboard.


I'd have to buy some peg board, I already have the pyramids. ;~)

"Leon" wrote in message
I'd have to buy some peg board, I already have the pyramids. ;~)

I've got a set of the Lee Valley pyramids. One problem I have occasionally
experienced with them was accidentally bumping the project and some of the
pyramids would roll. Have you experienced that at all?

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
I'd have to buy some peg board, I already have the pyramids. ;~)

I've got a set of the Lee Valley pyramids. One problem I have occasionally
experienced with them was accidentally bumping the project and some of the
pyramids would roll. Have you experienced that at all?



Not yet, however if I paint the side closest to me first, I find that I try
to avoid bumping into the piece. ;~)