I just bought a used 24gal Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is spotless and
looks almost new. I got it home and changed the oil and air filter, then
cranked it up. Alls well. Then I drained the air (mostly), then opened
the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown water.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with proper
drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Thanks,

"Dave B - Parkville, MD" wrote:

Then I drained the air (mostly), then opened
the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown water.

That's all?

I wouldn't sweat it.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with
proper
drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Keep the drain open when you leave the shop.

Enjoy.

Lew

Dave B - Parkville, MD wrote:
I just bought a used 24gal Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is spotless and
looks almost new. I got it home and changed the oil and air filter, then
cranked it up. Alls well. Then I drained the air (mostly), then opened
the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown water.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with proper
drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Sounds as if it's been kept drained, so I wouldn't be too concerned.

One of the neat ideas I came across (here on the wreck?) was to install
a short hose with a ball valve at the end in place of the stock drain
plug to make regular draining of the tank easier. I keep telling myself
that I need to do that "one of these days - real soon now". :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote:

One of the neat ideas I came across (here on the wreck?) was to
install a short hose with a ball valve at the end in place of the
stock drain plug to make regular draining of the tank easier.

Hard pipe it with a street ell, a 6" nipple and a ball valve, all 1/2"
and you open and close it with your foot.

No bending over req'd.

BTDT

Lew

One of the neat ideas I came across (here on the wreck?) was to install
a short hose with a ball valve at the end in place of the stock drain plug
to make regular draining of the tank easier. I keep telling myself that I
need to do that "one of these days - real soon now". :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Do replumb the drain, mine was at the bottom, (Horz comp) you had to get on
your hands and knees to drain. Got drained, *maybe* once a week. A bit of
1/4 inch copper, some compression fittings and a small ball valve. $12 and
10 min. Drained every day now.

On Fri, 10 Oct 2008 20:51:53 -0500, Morris Dovey wrote:

Dave B - Parkville, MD wrote:
I just bought a used 24gal Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is spotless and
looks almost new. I got it home and changed the oil and air filter, then
cranked it up. Alls well. Then I drained the air (mostly), then opened
the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown water.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with proper
drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Sounds as if it's been kept drained, so I wouldn't be too concerned.

One of the neat ideas I came across (here on the wreck?) was to install
a short hose with a ball valve at the end in place of the stock drain
plug to make regular draining of the tank easier. I keep telling myself
that I need to do that "one of these days - real soon now". :-)

I have one of these kits on my compressor, Morris..
Works well and makes a PITA chore easy for an ol' fart with a reluctant lower
back..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:55:22 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

I have one of these kits on my compressor, Morris..
Works well and makes a PITA chore easy for an ol' fart with a reluctant lower
back..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960


mac


I've had one of those HF auto drains on my stationary compressor for a
couple of years now and it seems to be doing the job quite well. Every
so often I'll exercise my lower back and open the manual valve. So
far, it's always been dry.

Only problem I've had with mine is a rupture in the cheap plastic
pressure hose which was then replaced with a more substantial nylon
hose.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

Mac or Tom, I've been wanting to get one of these for years but never
got around to it. The instructions at HF say this kit will not work
with switches that have copper "unloader" tubing. I assume this is
because of the supplied fittings. Would it be possible/reasonable to
make this thing work with copper fittings? I imagine the connection on
the valve would have to work with standard NTP copper fittings.

I've just read where a guy bought this HF one and he said he can't find
a fitting to match his line, and that the HF one has very non-standard
size fittings that he can't find? My compressor has a 1/4" copper
unloader line.

I haven't drained my compressor in years, I'm almost afraid to open the
cock and see what's in there. I'm sure I'm not the only one:-)

Tom Veatch wrote
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:55:22 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

I have one of these kits on my compressor, Morris..
Works well and makes a PITA chore easy for an ol' fart with a reluctant lower
back..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960


mac


I've had one of those HF auto drains on my stationary compressor for a
couple of years now and it seems to be doing the job quite well. Every
so often I'll exercise my lower back and open the manual valve. So
far, it's always been dry.

Only problem I've had with mine is a rupture in the cheap plastic
pressure hose which was then replaced with a more substantial nylon
hose.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA


--
Jack
http://jbstein.com

Jack Stein wrote:
Mac or Tom, I've been wanting to get one of these for years but never
got around to it. The instructions at HF say this kit will not work
with switches that have copper "unloader" tubing. I assume this is
because of the supplied fittings. Would it be possible/reasonable to
make this thing work with copper fittings? I imagine the connection on
the valve would have to work with standard NTP copper fittings.

I've just read where a guy bought this HF one and he said he can't find
a fitting to match his line, and that the HF one has very non-standard
size fittings that he can't find? My compressor has a 1/4" copper
unloader line.

I haven't drained my compressor in years, I'm almost afraid to open the
cock and see what's in there. I'm sure I'm not the only one:-)

Tom Veatch wrote
On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:55:22 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

I have one of these kits on my compressor, Morris..
Works well and makes a PITA chore easy for an ol' fart with a reluctant lower
back..
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46960


mac


I've had one of those HF auto drains on my stationary compressor for a
couple of years now and it seems to be doing the job quite well. Every
so often I'll exercise my lower back and open the manual valve. So
far, it's always been dry.

Only problem I've had with mine is a rupture in the cheap plastic
pressure hose which was then replaced with a more substantial nylon
hose.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA


I'm not Mac or Tom, but I hooked up a HF automatic drain to mine using
copper tubing. It worked fine for a few months then started leaking
air (not closing completely). I dismantled it a couple of times and
cleaned it out but the last time I just took it off. I have a
galvanized extension on my drain using street El's and a quarter turn
ball valve with a long handle (possibly a gas shut off valve) and it
works fine, just not automatic.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A liberal is a conservative who has
been arrested.

In article , jbstein2
@comcast.net says...
Mac or Tom, I've been wanting to get one of these for years but never
got around to it. The instructions at HF say this kit will not work
with switches that have copper "unloader" tubing. I assume this is
because of the supplied fittings. Would it be possible/reasonable to
make this thing work with copper fittings? I imagine the connection on
the valve would have to work with standard NTP copper fittings.

"Switches"?

I've just read where a guy bought this HF one and he said he can't find
a fitting to match his line, and that the HF one has very non-standard
size fittings that he can't find? My compressor has a 1/4" copper
unloader line.

If nothing else, wouldn't a compression fitting work?

I haven't drained my compressor in years, I'm almost afraid to open the
cock and see what's in there. I'm sure I'm not the only one:-)

Sounds dangerous. Doesn't the possibility of a tank rupture worry
you a little?

snipped top-posting quoted stuff

--
Keith

In article ,
says...
I just bought a used 24gal Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is spotless and
looks almost new. I got it home and changed the oil and air filter, then
cranked it up. Alls well. Then I drained the air (mostly), then opened
the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown water.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with proper
drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Thanks,

Not too much. It sounds like the previous owner
didn't drain for a while before selling it to you,
but if you do it every evening after use, you
should be fine.

In case you don't know, compressors squeeze water
out of air (really). This water can rust inside
the tank, but usually is not a big deal unless
it's an old compressor with a compromised tank.

S.

samson wrote in
:

In article ,
says...
I just bought a used 24gal Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is spotless
and looks almost new. I got it home and changed the oil and air
filter, then cranked it up. Alls well. Then I drained the air
(mostly), then opened the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown
water.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with
proper drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Thanks,

Not too much. It sounds like the previous owner
didn't drain for a while before selling it to you,
but if you do it every evening after use, you
should be fine.

In case you don't know, compressors squeeze water
out of air (really). This water can rust inside
the tank, but usually is not a big deal unless
it's an old compressor with a compromised tank.

S.


Thanks, guys. I didn't think it was too bad, but wasn't sure. I have
had a little PC pancake and drain it religously. When I was the brown
water I was a little concerned.

Boy is the oil-lubed compressor quiet. The pancake would rattle my
fillings.

Water in the tank is a fact of life. It naturally settles to the bottom
when compressed and separated.

If you lok in the Grainger or McMaster Carr catalogs you should be able to
find an automatic blowdown device which connects to the drain port and uses
a small float valve to keep the tank drained and fairly dry.






"Dave B - Parkville, MD" wrote in message
. ..
I just bought a used 24gal Ingersoll Rand compressor. It is spotless and
looks almost new. I got it home and changed the oil and air filter, then
cranked it up. Alls well. Then I drained the air (mostly), then opened
the drain plug. I got about 2 ounces of brown water.

Any thoughts on what I should do going forward? Just keep up with proper
drainage or should I be concerned about rust inside?

Thanks,