I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on
how fine one should go?

Max

"Max" wrote in message
...
I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on how
fine one should go?

The short answer is I wouldn't waste effort sanding oak finer than 180 with
the grain. Maybe a bit finer with an orbital or across the grain, less fine
on softer woods. But these days I try not to use abrasives at all and get a
finish straight off a sharp blade wherever I can. It is a different look. it
wouldn't be always acceptable in the trade. But I like it.

Tim w

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 14:56:19 -0600, "Max"
wrote:

I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on
how fine one should go?

Max

The 220 grit is the finest for most projects. I use 320 and higher
for between finish coats.

Max wrote:
I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on
how fine one should go?

Depends on the wood, the finish, if you know how to sand, as well as if
you're staining.

My normalities:

Oil and thin clear finishes:
Open grained hardwoods and softwoods (Red oak and pine) - 220
Tight grained hardwoods - 320-400
Exotics - possibly 600

Staining:
Most woods - 120-150, maybe 180-220 on closed grain wood
End grain - 220, or a grit higher than the face

The important part of ending at a lower grit pre-stain is to be aware of
cross grain and orbital scratching. You CAN stop at 120 before staining
IF you hand sand with the grain. Closed grain woods may require 150-220
grit to avoid obvious scratching. Sanding to too fine of a grit
pre-stain may result in pigment wiping right off, and a too-light final
color.

Barry

"Max" wrote in message
...
I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on how
fine one should go?

Max

I always stop at 180 used on a finish sander.

"B A R R Y" wrote

Max wrote:
I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I
can't see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the
softer woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any
consensus on how fine one should go?

Depends on the wood, the finish, if you know how to sand, as well as
if you're staining.

My normalities:

Oil and thin clear finishes:
Open grained hardwoods and softwoods (Red oak and pine) - 220
Tight grained hardwoods - 320-400
Exotics - possibly 600

Staining:
Most woods - 120-150, maybe 180-220 on closed grain wood
End grain - 220, or a grit higher than the face

The important part of ending at a lower grit pre-stain is to be aware
of cross grain and orbital scratching. You CAN stop at 120 before
staining IF you hand sand with the grain. Closed grain woods may
require 150-220 grit to avoid obvious scratching. Sanding to too fine
of a grit pre-stain may result in pigment wiping right off, and a
too-light final color.

Barry

I rarely stain. My *usual* finish is "danish" oil and poly, (semi-gloss
or satin)
I'm curious about using a *finer* grit on hard woods. My experience is
that the softer woods show scratches easier than the hardwoods do.
I use a lot of Ponderosa Pine (mostly for "Southwestern" style) and I
find that I get a better look by going to 320.
Maple, Red Oak, Ash all seem to turn out just fine with 220. I haven't
done anything in Walnut or Cherry in many years so I don't know what my
results would be for them. I've done some cabinets in Hickory and they
were fine with 220.
I use a Bosch 3727 down to 220 and then hand sand with 220. (or 320 as
the case may be)
Thanks for the input.

Max

On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 14:56:19 -0600, Max wrote:

I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on
how fine one should go?


If you're putting a clear finish on it, 220 is fine. If you're going to
use stain, which I seldom do, stop at 180 so there will be some pores open
for the pigment particles to lodge in. Or use a dye instead, but even
then 220 will give a lighter color than 180.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 14:56:19 -0600, Max wrote:

I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I
can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the
softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on
how fine one should go?


If you're putting a clear finish on it, 220 is fine. If you're going
to
use stain, which I seldom do, stop at 180 so there will be some pores
open
for the pigment particles to lodge in. Or use a dye instead, but even
then 220 will give a lighter color than 180.

Good info. Thanks.

Max

I use mstly clear finishes....

I sand oak to 220, and cherry to 400 - it takes on a silky smooth
feel!

shelly

wrote in message
...
I use mstly clear finishes....

I sand oak to 220, and cherry to 400 - it takes on a silky smooth
feel!

shelly

Thanks.

Max

Max wrote:

I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on
how fine one should go?

Max

If using a film finish I stop at 220. The finish build will fill any
irregularities.

If I'm using a penetrating (oil) finish I'll sand to 600 or possibly 800
depending of the type of wood and the items function.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Max" wrote in message
...
I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on how
fine one should go?

Evidently no consensus at all then.

I have to say these people sanding to 400, 600 & 800 grit have too much time
on their hands. There are some but very few woods hard and dark enough to
take a polish from abrasives that fine. If you are working in ebony for
instance or making a pipe from briar root then the wood will shine
beautifully with very fine abrasives alone. Maple will polish a little but
it is too pale to really shine. Pine, cherry, oak, - sanding finer than
180grit with the grain is just vanity.

Tim w

"Tim W" wrote in message
om...

"Max" wrote in message
...
I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I
can't see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the
softer woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any
consensus on how fine one should go?

Evidently no consensus at all then.

I have to say these people sanding to 400, 600 & 800 grit have too
much time on their hands. There are some but very few woods hard and
dark enough to take a polish from abrasives that fine. If you are
working in ebony for instance or making a pipe from briar root then
the wood will shine beautifully with very fine abrasives alone. Maple
will polish a little but it is too pale to really shine. Pine, cherry,
oak, - sanding finer than 180grit with the grain is just vanity.

Tim w

OK.

Max

Tim W wrote:
"Max" wrote in message
...

I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on how
fine one should go?


Evidently no consensus at all then.

I have to say these people sanding to 400, 600 & 800 grit have too much time
on their hands. There are some but very few woods hard and dark enough to
take a polish from abrasives that fine. If you are working in ebony for
instance or making a pipe from briar root then the wood will shine
beautifully with very fine abrasives alone. Maple will polish a little but
it is too pale to really shine. Pine, cherry, oak, - sanding finer than
180grit with the grain is just vanity.

Tim w



There are many woods, Cocobolo, Bocote, Wenge, any of the Rosewoods,
etc., that all polish nicely with the finer grits.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Nova" wrote in message
news:tFiwk.676$Wd.165@trnddc01...
Tim W wrote:
"Max" wrote in message
...

I've been sanding down to 220 on Oak. I have some 320 discs but I can't
see/feel where 320 is any improvement over 220. On some of the softer
woods it seems a little smoother with 320. Is there any consensus on how
fine one should go?


Evidently no consensus at all then.

I have to say these people sanding to 400, 600 & 800 grit have too much
time on their hands. There are some but very few woods hard and dark
enough to take a polish from abrasives that fine. If you are working in
ebony for instance or making a pipe from briar root then the wood will
shine beautifully with very fine abrasives alone. Maple will polish a
little but it is too pale to really shine. Pine, cherry, oak, - sanding
finer than 180grit with the grain is just vanity.

Tim w

There are many woods, Cocobolo, Bocote, Wenge, any of the Rosewoods, etc.,
that all polish nicely with the finer grits.

Yes you are right and it was not correct to say there are only a few.

Tim W