I'm moving into a house with around 15 linear feet of old white
laminate countertop. I'm thinking of painting face frames and
replacing doors and drawers fronts on the cabinetry. Now how practical
is it to buy some mahogany or sapele and gluing up 3/4 inch wide 1 1/2
inch thick pieces and finding a finish that would work in the kitchen.
I know I would have to send it out for wide belt sanding. What other
considerations am I missing?? Thanks much
--- Ed

On Jul 17, 1:48*pm, DADGAD wrote:
I'm moving into a house with around 15 linear feet of old white
laminate countertop. I'm thinking of painting face frames and
replacing doors and drawers fronts on the cabinetry. Now how practical
is it to buy some mahogany or sapele and gluing up 3/4 inch wide 1 1/2
inch thick pieces and finding a finish that would work in the kitchen.
I know I would have to send it out for wide belt sanding. What other
considerations am I missing?? Thanks much
--- Ed

By the time you're done with picking the right (non toxic) glue, the
right, durable finish, the amount of wood, etc, etc, the clamping,
man... that is a lot of work. OR.. you can call these guys:

http://www.johnboos.com/residential/

It is not that bad.

On Jul 17, 1:48 pm, DADGAD wrote:
I'm moving into a house with around 15 linear feet of old white
laminate countertop. I'm thinking of painting face frames and
replacing doors and drawers fronts on the cabinetry. Now how practical
is it to buy some mahogany or sapele and gluing up 3/4 inch wide 1 1/2
inch thick pieces and finding a finish that would work in the kitchen.
I know I would have to send it out for wide belt sanding. What other
considerations am I missing?? Thanks much
--- Ed

Finishes. There are not many finishes that are useful on kitchen
working surfaces. Wood is almost certainly going to get treated more
like a cutting board or chopping block than would, say, Formica or
Corian or granite, too, so it will be even rougher to keep a finish
intact.

If you decide to go ahead with wood, make sure you pick something with
a closed pores, rather than the oaks, walnut or other open pored
woods. Of the two you list, sapele would be my preference, because the
grain is interlocked and the color more varied than within individual
mahogany boards...mahogany can vary a lot in color, but within a lot
from the same tree, it's usually pretty uniform and straight grained.
It works beautifully, but can be boring in large expanses (IMO).
Sapele can vary from almost purple in the red-brown to a pale yellow
sapwood. It is also stronger than mahogany, and almost demands carbide
cutters.

If you could get quartersawn sapele, it could make a gorgeous
countertop, with the previous idea of having to renew the finish
often. Neither mahogany nor sapele should give you any problems with
rot from occasional excess wetness, either. Personally, I would
consider using a teak oil or similar finish and planning on recoating
as needed (every six weeks or so in a normally busy residential
kitchen). Finishes that form a more solid film are going to look like
the devil quickly.

A lot of work, both to make and keep up, but certainly different and
beautiful.

Sauers & Company offers a veneer with a resin backing, you can purchase it
in up to 5' x 10' sheets. Around $150/sheet .
you can use it like formica or edge it with a wood trim. It is actual wood
veneer and comes in endless species. Finish it like normal, I use Rock Hard
Varnish from Woodcraft. The answer to all wood movement problems related
with large wood counter tops.

Ken
www.sveneers.com
Ask for Jeff or Terry Saurers , Off. # 1-336-886-4716






"DADGAD" wrote in message
...
I'm moving into a house with around 15 linear feet of old white
laminate countertop. I'm thinking of painting face frames and
replacing doors and drawers fronts on the cabinetry. Now how practical
is it to buy some mahogany or sapele and gluing up 3/4 inch wide 1 1/2
inch thick pieces and finding a finish that would work in the kitchen.
I know I would have to send it out for wide belt sanding. What other
considerations am I missing?? Thanks much
--- Ed

I have a bar counter top made of 2 wide mahogany boards, and am in the
process of making an island counter top out of 1 really wide (27 inch)
mahogany board... so far the bar counter top is great, its been about
a year, not hard service but regularly used.

Anybody have suggestions on finish? I used waterlox and have no
complaints, if anyone has any input or other suggestions, that would
be great.

Also am considering how to fill the pores on the new top - old one I
used linseed oil and rottenstone, turned out well. I got some Behlen
pore o pak and was thinking about that - - but since the bar counter
turned out well, I think i might stick with the linseed oil version.