Hi.
I have just cut some 24mm thick oak treads to a length
but there are 3 or 4 lengths where the last inch or so have
an end split/shake. Most of the split will of course be hidden
by the string. But should I do something to stabilize or repair
these imperfections?
And how should I do it?

Thanks.

Arthur

Is this fully seasoned, joinery-grade oak? (i.e. is more movement
expected, or are they fully stable).

If fully stable, I'd work with it as it is, and use stoppings (e.g.
Brummer) once the stair is complete.

If you think the crack is likely to propagate, you could glue in a
biscuit(s) into the hidden board edge to act as a "tie" (trim off
excess).

BTW - what width/depth are these stair treads? Is there an opportunity
to further stiffen them with a centre carriage and/or battens glued to
the underside?

wrote in message
...
Is this fully seasoned, joinery-grade oak? (i.e. is more movement
expected, or are they fully stable).

If fully stable, I'd work with it as it is, and use stoppings (e.g.
Brummer) once the stair is complete.

If you think the crack is likely to propagate, you could glue in a
biscuit(s) into the hidden board edge to act as a "tie" (trim off
excess).

BTW - what width/depth are these stair treads? Is there an opportunity
to further stiffen them with a centre carriage and/or battens glued to
the underside?

Thanks. The biscuit idea sound very good.
The oak has been dried but I can't be sure to what extent so I'm taking a
chance with it.
It is 24mm thick at the moment but there are some patches that are rough
sawn so it
I may have to plane it down and then give it some heavy sanding to get a
good finish.
I suppose I should feed them all through a thicknesser and reduce them all
to 22mm or 21m
to end up with a really fine finish (to the treads anyway). But I don't
want to reduce the thickness
if its not totally necessary.

Arthur

Arthur2 wrote:
wrote in message
...
Is this fully seasoned, joinery-grade oak? (i.e. is more movement
expected, or are they fully stable).

If fully stable, I'd work with it as it is, and use stoppings (e.g.
Brummer) once the stair is complete.

If you think the crack is likely to propagate, you could glue in a
biscuit(s) into the hidden board edge to act as a "tie" (trim off
excess).

BTW - what width/depth are these stair treads? Is there an opportunity
to further stiffen them with a centre carriage and/or battens glued to
the underside?

Thanks. The biscuit idea sound very good.
The oak has been dried but I can't be sure to what extent so I'm taking a
chance with it.
It is 24mm thick at the moment but there are some patches that are rough
sawn so it
I may have to plane it down and then give it some heavy sanding to get a
good finish.
I suppose I should feed them all through a thicknesser and reduce them all
to 22mm or 21m
to end up with a really fine finish (to the treads anyway). But I don't
want to reduce the thickness
if its not totally necessary.

IME once oak has split, nothing short of a permanent iron band will
close up the gap permanently.

Either cut off split sections, or simply fill with plastic wood to match
the stain/varnish color you are applying. In practice, it looks far
better to match the darkest knot colour than the lightest wood, so I use
a fairly deep brown plastic wood.


Arthur

"Arthur2" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
Is this fully seasoned, joinery-grade oak? (i.e. is more movement
expected, or are they fully stable).

If fully stable, I'd work with it as it is, and use stoppings (e.g.
Brummer) once the stair is complete.

If you think the crack is likely to propagate, you could glue in a
biscuit(s) into the hidden board edge to act as a "tie" (trim off
excess).

BTW - what width/depth are these stair treads? Is there an opportunity
to further stiffen them with a centre carriage and/or battens glued to
the underside?

Thanks. The biscuit idea sound very good.
The oak has been dried but I can't be sure to what extent so I'm taking a
chance with it.
It is 24mm thick at the moment but there are some patches that are rough
sawn so it
I may have to plane it down and then give it some heavy sanding to get a
good finish.
I suppose I should feed them all through a thicknesser and reduce them all
to 22mm or 21m
to end up with a really fine finish (to the treads anyway). But I don't
want to reduce the thickness
if its not totally necessary.

You are confusing me, you don't want to reduce the thickness to get a good
surface but are willing to do some heavy duty sanding to eliminate rough
areas. A thickness planer will reduce the thickness evenly and accurately,
sanding will create dips, uneven thicknesses and a poor result.

24mm is really too thin for treads, it is less than an inch. Once you have
cleaned up the rough surface, by any means, you still will have even less
thickness, you will be down to about 7/8". You need to rethink this job,
maybe glue a strip of wood to build up the front edge, and add a center
support.

"BobS" wrote in message
...

"Arthur2" wrote in message
...
Hi.
I have just cut some 24mm thick oak treads to a length
but there are 3 or 4 lengths where the last inch or so have
an end split/shake. Most of the split will of course be hidden
by the string. But should I do something to stabilize or repair
these imperfections?
And how should I do it?

Thanks.

Arthur


Arthur,

Unless these are boxed stairs or you have a center support under each
tread - 24mm is not really thick enough for a stair tread.

As for the end splits - you could drill a small hole all the way through
at the end of the split to stop it and fill that in with an epoxy. Use a
colorant such as artists acrylic paints mixed with the epoxy to either
blend it in or make a contrast. If the splits are long enough, you could
inlay a butterfly that spans the split to add a bit of a decorative touch.

For now though, I would suggest you research what the minimum tread
thickness should be for the type of stairs you're building and that you
meet and/or exceed code.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60182

Bob S.

The splits only extend about an inch in from the end of the treads
and although visible will be mainly hidden within the string.
I will be routing a closed stringer from at least 38mm thick pine for a 13
tread staircase.
The treads are 28" wide.
I've seen many 'flatpack' staircases sold with 22mm mdf treads (and 9mm
plywood risers)
so I think 20mm oak should be strong enough with perhaps a centre support as
you and others have suggested.

Arthur

Arthur2 wrote:
"BobS" wrote in message
...
"Arthur2" wrote in message
...
Hi.
I have just cut some 24mm thick oak treads to a length
but there are 3 or 4 lengths where the last inch or so have
an end split/shake. Most of the split will of course be hidden
by the string. But should I do something to stabilize or repair
these imperfections?
And how should I do it?

Thanks.

Arthur

Arthur,

Unless these are boxed stairs or you have a center support under each
tread - 24mm is not really thick enough for a stair tread.

As for the end splits - you could drill a small hole all the way through
at the end of the split to stop it and fill that in with an epoxy. Use a
colorant such as artists acrylic paints mixed with the epoxy to either
blend it in or make a contrast. If the splits are long enough, you could
inlay a butterfly that spans the split to add a bit of a decorative touch.

For now though, I would suggest you research what the minimum tread
thickness should be for the type of stairs you're building and that you
meet and/or exceed code.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60182

Bob S.

The splits only extend about an inch in from the end of the treads
and although visible will be mainly hidden within the string.
I will be routing a closed stringer from at least 38mm thick pine for a 13
tread staircase.
The treads are 28" wide.
I've seen many 'flatpack' staircases sold with 22mm mdf treads (and 9mm
plywood risers)
so I think 20mm oak should be strong enough with perhaps a centre support as
you and others have suggested.

Arthur



I agree. My stairs are 19mm MDF and are fully adequate. The ones that
aren't are the 1/2" antique victorian pine ones, where people can, do,
and have stuck their feet through.

Just fill they ends with plastic wood and plane rather than sand.

I do not understand why you are using something as nasty as pine for the
stringer: either use proper oak, if you want to stain it, or MDF which
is far more stable and paints well.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Arthur2 wrote:
"BobS" wrote in message
...
"Arthur2" wrote in message
...
Hi.
I have just cut some 24mm thick oak treads to a length
but there are 3 or 4 lengths where the last inch or so have
an end split/shake. Most of the split will of course be hidden
by the string. But should I do something to stabilize or repair
these imperfections?
And how should I do it?

Thanks.

Arthur

Arthur,

Unless these are boxed stairs or you have a center support under each
tread - 24mm is not really thick enough for a stair tread.

As for the end splits - you could drill a small hole all the way through
at the end of the split to stop it and fill that in with an epoxy. Use a
colorant such as artists acrylic paints mixed with the epoxy to either
blend it in or make a contrast. If the splits are long enough, you
could inlay a butterfly that spans the split to add a bit of a
decorative touch.

For now though, I would suggest you research what the minimum tread
thickness should be for the type of stairs you're building and that you
meet and/or exceed code.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60182

Bob S.

The splits only extend about an inch in from the end of the treads
and although visible will be mainly hidden within the string.
I will be routing a closed stringer from at least 38mm thick pine for a
13 tread staircase.
The treads are 28" wide.
I've seen many 'flatpack' staircases sold with 22mm mdf treads (and 9mm
plywood risers)
so I think 20mm oak should be strong enough with perhaps a centre support
as you and others have suggested.

Arthur
I agree. My stairs are 19mm MDF and are fully adequate. The ones that
aren't are the 1/2" antique victorian pine ones, where people can, do, and
have stuck their feet through.

Just fill they ends with plastic wood and plane rather than sand.

I do not understand why you are using something as nasty as pine for the
stringer: either use proper oak, if you want to stain it, or MDF which is
far more stable and paints well.


Well I might go for a more handsome wood for the strings but the reason I'm
looking at pine is because i want to achieve the painted riser
and treated plain oak tread effect.so the risers will be painted ply.
I also want to avoid a 12" wide string to create something less 'heavy' in
appearance.
So 10" max width would need to be at least 38mm thick.
I was considering buying the graded C16 or C24 timbers and asking them to
plane it all round.
If I went for oak I think I would have buy 50mm x 275mm which is about
£25/metre before delivery.(eg SL HARDWOODS)
And that would be at least £200 before delivery.

Arthur