Pulled an old rotted out sill off (having removed the old rotted out
wall above it--it was too far gone to be worth trying to save) and
found under the sill something that looks like soaking wet cardboard,
about the thickness of corrugated board. I'm curious as to whether
the use of such a substance was ever standard practice.

Upon further investigation it appears to be just a couple of sheets of
Kraft paper--whatever it was I scraped the sodden remains off,
pressure washed the area (and got all the spider eggs and cocoons and
deceased insects and the like off the areas that will be hidden when
the wall goes back up), ran a thread chaser down the bolts, which were
in surprisingly good condition, and once it dries I should be good to
go on the new sill, this time with purpose-made plastic sill seal and
pressure treated sills and CopperCoat (Wolman's half-strength
Cuprinol-equivalent, the real stuff being unobtainable locally, at
least not without waiting for a special order) on the theoretically
unexposed areas that were rotted on the pieces I removed.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Pulled an old rotted out sill off (having removed the old rotted out
wall above it--it was too far gone to be worth trying to save) and
found under the sill something that looks like soaking wet cardboard,
about the thickness of corrugated board. I'm curious as to whether
the use of such a substance was ever standard practice.

Upon further investigation it appears to be just a couple of sheets of
Kraft paper--whatever it was I scraped the sodden remains off,
pressure washed the area (and got all the spider eggs and cocoons and
deceased insects and the like off the areas that will be hidden when
the wall goes back up), ran a thread chaser down the bolts, which were
in surprisingly good condition, and once it dries I should be good to
go on the new sill, this time with purpose-made plastic sill seal and
pressure treated sills and CopperCoat (Wolman's half-strength
Cuprinol-equivalent, the real stuff being unobtainable locally, at
least not without waiting for a special order) on the theoretically
unexposed areas that were rotted on the pieces I removed.


Going back to my olds architect class days in the early 70's IIRC there was
a felt like material that was soaked with a tar like substance that went
between the sill plate and the foundation. Different building codes in
different areas had different requirements. This was in Corpus Christi, TX.

It's a sill sealer.


On Sat, 17 May 2008 13:59:31 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Pulled an old rotted out sill off (having removed the old rotted out
wall above it--it was too far gone to be worth trying to save) and
found under the sill something that looks like soaking wet cardboard,
about the thickness of corrugated board. I'm curious as to whether
the use of such a substance was ever standard practice.

Upon further investigation it appears to be just a couple of sheets of
Kraft paper--whatever it was I scraped the sodden remains off,
pressure washed the area (and got all the spider eggs and cocoons and
deceased insects and the like off the areas that will be hidden when
the wall goes back up), ran a thread chaser down the bolts, which were
in surprisingly good condition, and once it dries I should be good to
go on the new sill, this time with purpose-made plastic sill seal and
pressure treated sills and CopperCoat (Wolman's half-strength
Cuprinol-equivalent, the real stuff being unobtainable locally, at
least not without waiting for a special order) on the theoretically
unexposed areas that were rotted on the pieces I removed.

--

Tom Watson
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

"Leon" wrote

Going back to my olds architect class days in the early 70's IIRC there
was
a felt like material that was soaked with a tar like substance that went
between the sill plate and the foundation. Different building codes in
different areas had different requirements. This was in Corpus Christi,
TX.

A polyurethane type "sill sealer tape" is now routinely placed between the
bottom double sill place and the concrete foundation to act as both a gap
filler, moisture barrier, and an air filtration barrier. In some areas this
is required by energy codes.

It's so cheap to do, and the benefits so large, that only an idiot wouldn't
do it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

How have you decided to isolate your old steel j bolts away from
the new ACQ treated lumber? PVC sleeve?

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Pulled an old rotted out sill off (having removed the old rotted
out
wall above it--it was too far gone to be worth trying to save)
and
found under the sill something that looks like soaking wet
cardboard,
about the thickness of corrugated board. I'm curious as to
whether
the use of such a substance was ever standard practice.

Upon further investigation it appears to be just a couple of
sheets of
Kraft paper--whatever it was I scraped the sodden remains off,
pressure washed the area (and got all the spider eggs and
cocoons and
deceased insects and the like off the areas that will be hidden
when
the wall goes back up), ran a thread chaser down the bolts,
which were
in surprisingly good condition, and once it dries I should be
good to
go on the new sill, this time with purpose-made plastic sill
seal and
pressure treated sills and CopperCoat (Wolman's half-strength
Cuprinol-equivalent, the real stuff being unobtainable locally,
at
least not without waiting for a special order) on the
theoretically
unexposed areas that were rotted on the pieces I removed.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

DanG wrote:
How have you decided to isolate your old steel j bolts away from
the new ACQ treated lumber? PVC sleeve?


If they are 1/2" in diameter or larger noting is required.

"2006 International Residential Code - Fastener Statement - section R319.3

Fasteners for pressure-preservative and fire-retardant treated wood
shall be of hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel, stainless steel,
silicon bronze or copper. The coating weights for zinc-coated fasteners
shall be in accordance with ASTM-A153.

Exceptions:

---- 1. One-half-inch (12.7 mm) diameter or larger steel bolts. ------

2. Fasteners other than nails and timber rivets shall be permitted to be
of mechanically deposited zinc-coated steel with coating weights in
accordance with ASTM-B695, Class 55, minimum."

http://www.postcaps.com/fastener.htm

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Given these wonderful requirements, how is it that the "hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel" screws I put into my green wood deck structure all rotted while only the "stainless steel" seem to be surviving after only 10 years.

I have not tried the "silicon bronze" but I do know that the "copper" are really nice in a boat that is nearing 50. I must admit the screws are all covered with fiberglass and resin.

From what little empirical evidence I have, only copper and stainless are the way to go. Only drawback I have seen with the copper is their fragility.

P D Q


"Nova" wrote in message news:a4KXj.1694$Zy1.1078@trndny05...
DanG wrote:
How have you decided to isolate your old steel j bolts away from
the new ACQ treated lumber? PVC sleeve?


If they are 1/2" in diameter or larger noting is required.

"2006 International Residential Code - Fastener Statement - section R319.3

Fasteners for pressure-preservative and fire-retardant treated wood
shall be of hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel, stainless steel,
silicon bronze or copper. The coating weights for zinc-coated fasteners
shall be in accordance with ASTM-A153.

Exceptions:

---- 1. One-half-inch (12.7 mm) diameter or larger steel bolts. ------

2. Fasteners other than nails and timber rivets shall be permitted to be
of mechanically deposited zinc-coated steel with coating weights in
accordance with ASTM-B695, Class 55, minimum."

http://www.postcaps.com/fastener.htm

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Nova wrote:
DanG wrote:
How have you decided to isolate your old steel j bolts away from
the new ACQ treated lumber? PVC sleeve?


If they are 1/2" in diameter or larger noting is required.

"2006 International Residential Code - Fastener Statement - section
R319.3

Fasteners for pressure-preservative and fire-retardant treated wood
shall be of hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel, stainless
steel,
silicon bronze or copper. The coating weights for zinc-coated
fasteners shall be in accordance with ASTM-A153.

Exceptions:

---- 1. One-half-inch (12.7 mm) diameter or larger steel bolts.
------

2. Fasteners other than nails and timber rivets shall be permitted
to
be of mechanically deposited zinc-coated steel with coating weights
in
accordance with ASTM-B695, Class 55, minimum."

http://www.postcaps.com/fastener.htm

I should have mentioned that it's a shed.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

PDQ wrote:
Given these wonderful requirements, how is it that the "hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel" screws I put into my green wood deck structure all
rotted while
only the "stainless steel" seem to be surviving after only 10 years.


Perhaps the screws did not meet the ASTM-A153 standard for coating
thickness. The approved fasteners are often referred to as double hot
dipped.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On May 18, 9:46 am, Nova wrote:
PDQ wrote:
Given these wonderful requirements, how is it that the "hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel" screws I put into my green wood deck structure all

rotted while
only the "stainless steel" seem to be surviving after only 10 years.



Perhaps the screws did not meet the ASTM-A153 standard for coating
thickness. The approved fasteners are often referred to as double hot
dipped.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA


I have been making a minuter of Diesel Fuel and old roof shingles and
tar paper to try and stop carpenter bees and to treat exposed barn
siding and such. It dries - eventually - to form what appears (after a
year or so) to be a pretty good waterproof coating that lets the wood
show through, too.

I also recall reading that Boric Acid solution is used to treat fresh
lumber to inhibit or prevent termite damage. So I sprayed the wood in
my Florida Shed with that before putting up the siding and interior
panels.