The following went to Biesemeyer, Forrest and Powermatic. The
predictible response was: It's the other guy's fault. What do you
all think?






Give me some help here, guys. I recently purchased a Biesemeyer
Splitter stock number B78440 according to the box in which it arrived.
I installed it on my PM66 according to the instructions that arrived
with it.

I had earlier checked with Powermatic re the production date of my PM
66, serial number 01110662753, and had been told that the number
indicates a 2001 production date. A call to PM left me with the
information that it doesn't matter as nothing in the area of the saw
in question for changing a splitter was affected by the change from
2000 to 2001. See Biesemeyer's chart below indicating that the
cut-off dates were 1979 to August 2000 for two different part numbers.
Regardless, I checked with the local Bies dealer: Weatherford in
Austin, TX. I was told there that just as in the chart below, a saw
manufactured after 2000 requires part number B78440.

So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting
3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed
to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and
discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted
portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for
that blade to be cranked up while running (I know, bad form, but I've
seen many people do it) and knowing where the usual user's face is
located when he or she is cranking the blade higher, leads me to be
very glad that I can still see out of both eyes. So I unplugged the
saw. Took the splitter off, reinstalled it according to the same
instructions (there seem to be no degrees of freedom as to where the
splitter ends up if it is line with the blade i.e except for the
lateral adjustment from the left to the right side of the blade, there
is no method for placing the splitter closer to or further from the
blade in either a vertical direction or a front to back direction).
With the saw off and unplugged, I reinstalled the WWII, cranked the
blade up to approx 1 1/2" and $#&*^%& it is still touching the painted
portion of the splitter. What gives, guys?

Wrong part for the saw?

Wrong saw for the part?

Bies chart copied from web page:

Splitters - For Selected Table Saws
Printer Friendly Version click here
Increase table saw safety by adding our anti-kickback snap-in
spreader. Designed to reduce dangerous kickbacks, this spreader snaps
in instantly and removes easily on saws from several manufacturers.
Each spreader has a unique mounting bracket designed to easily mount
to the saw using the existing mounting holes for the saws factory
guard/spreader unit. Once the mounting bracket is installed, you can
be assured that the spreader will be aligned with the saw blade every
time it is removed and reinserted. The splitter blade is quickly
removed by taking out the table insert, pulling on the spring loaded
pin and pulling the blade out. Insert the spreader into the mounting
bracket until the spring loaded pin engages the hole in the splitter
blade to reinstall.

The Biesemeyer® T-Square® Anti-kickback Splitter Is designed to be
used inconjuction with a basket style blade guard. The splitters are
not intended to be used with a thin kerf blade. Minimum saw blade
thickness is 1/8".


After determining the correct part number, click on the Distributors
link at the bottom of the page to find a local dealer.

SAW PART NO. NOTES
Delta Unisaw (right tilt) 78-961 Delta Unisaw Rt Tilt & Grizzly 1023
Delta Unisaw (left tilt) 78-431 Delta Unisaw Left Tilt
Delta Contractor's saw 78-963
Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw 78-963
Delta 12-14 (older 12-14 saw) 78-968 Does not fit the RT-40

Jet JTAS-10 (right tilt) B78451
Jet JTAS-10 (left tilt) B78453
Jet JWTS-10 B78452 Jet JWTS-10 & Powermatic 64 (does not fit the
Powermatic 64A)

General 350 B78461 Must be used with a zero clearance insert

Powermatic 66 B78441 Saws 1979 - August 2000
Powermatic 66 B78440 Saws Pre 1979 & Post 2000
Powermatic 63 B78444



Copyright © Biesemeyer - 2001 all rights reserved.




A prompt reply would be appreciated. You may catch me during the day
at the numbers below.

Why would you contact Forrest or Powermatic for this issue? A 10" blade
is 10 inches regardless of the make and model. The Powermatic company
isn't responsible for third party add ons.

Stay focused, and work with Bies tech support. The thing must be
sitting lower than it should be. Without seeing it my wild ass guess is
it's the wrong part or your particular unit was machined wrong.

dave

lwwise wrote:

The following went to Biesemeyer, Forrest and Powermatic. The
predictible response was: It's the other guy's fault. What do you
all think?






Give me some help here, guys. I recently purchased a Biesemeyer
Splitter stock number B78440 according to the box in which it arrived.
I installed it on my PM66 according to the instructions that arrived
with it.

I had earlier checked with Powermatic re the production date of my PM
66, serial number 01110662753, and had been told that the number
indicates a 2001 production date. A call to PM left me with the
information that it doesn't matter as nothing in the area of the saw
in question for changing a splitter was affected by the change from
2000 to 2001. See Biesemeyer's chart below indicating that the
cut-off dates were 1979 to August 2000 for two different part numbers.
Regardless, I checked with the local Bies dealer: Weatherford in
Austin, TX. I was told there that just as in the chart below, a saw
manufactured after 2000 requires part number B78440.

So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting
3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed
to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and
discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted
portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for
that blade to be cranked up while running (I know, bad form, but I've
seen many people do it) and knowing where the usual user's face is
located when he or she is cranking the blade higher, leads me to be
very glad that I can still see out of both eyes. So I unplugged the
saw. Took the splitter off, reinstalled it according to the same
instructions (there seem to be no degrees of freedom as to where the
splitter ends up if it is line with the blade i.e except for the
lateral adjustment from the left to the right side of the blade, there
is no method for placing the splitter closer to or further from the
blade in either a vertical direction or a front to back direction).
With the saw off and unplugged, I reinstalled the WWII, cranked the
blade up to approx 1 1/2" and $#&*^%& it is still touching the painted
portion of the splitter. What gives, guys?

Wrong part for the saw?

Wrong saw for the part?

Bies chart copied from web page:

Splitters - For Selected Table Saws
Printer Friendly Version click here
Increase table saw safety by adding our anti-kickback snap-in
spreader. Designed to reduce dangerous kickbacks, this spreader snaps
in instantly and removes easily on saws from several manufacturers.
Each spreader has a unique mounting bracket designed to easily mount
to the saw using the existing mounting holes for the saws factory
guard/spreader unit. Once the mounting bracket is installed, you can
be assured that the spreader will be aligned with the saw blade every
time it is removed and reinserted. The splitter blade is quickly
removed by taking out the table insert, pulling on the spring loaded
pin and pulling the blade out. Insert the spreader into the mounting
bracket until the spring loaded pin engages the hole in the splitter
blade to reinstall.

The Biesemeyer® T-Square® Anti-kickback Splitter Is designed to be
used inconjuction with a basket style blade guard. The splitters are
not intended to be used with a thin kerf blade. Minimum saw blade
thickness is 1/8".


After determining the correct part number, click on the Distributors
link at the bottom of the page to find a local dealer.

SAW PART NO. NOTES
Delta Unisaw (right tilt) 78-961 Delta Unisaw Rt Tilt & Grizzly 1023
Delta Unisaw (left tilt) 78-431 Delta Unisaw Left Tilt
Delta Contractor's saw 78-963
Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw 78-963
Delta 12-14 (older 12-14 saw) 78-968 Does not fit the RT-40

Jet JTAS-10 (right tilt) B78451
Jet JTAS-10 (left tilt) B78453
Jet JWTS-10 B78452 Jet JWTS-10 & Powermatic 64 (does not fit the
Powermatic 64A)

General 350 B78461 Must be used with a zero clearance insert

Powermatic 66 B78441 Saws 1979 - August 2000
Powermatic 66 B78440 Saws Pre 1979 & Post 2000
Powermatic 63 B78444



Copyright © Biesemeyer - 2001 all rights reserved.




A prompt reply would be appreciated. You may catch me during the day
at the numbers below.

(lwwise) writes:

[...]

So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting
3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed
to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and
discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted
portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for

shouldn't the splitter move up together with tha blade? Id does so on
my (Metabo) saw, thus giving no problem at all in whatever height the
blade is set: th splitter is always optimal, only if i would try to
make a (anyway dangarous und unadvised) plunge cut i would have to
remove it.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

In article ,
says...
(lwwise) writes:

[...]

So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting
3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed
to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and
discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted
portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for

shouldn't the splitter move up together with tha blade? Id does so on
my (Metabo) saw, thus giving no problem at all in whatever height the
blade is set: th splitter is always optimal, only if i would try to
make a (anyway dangarous und unadvised) plunge cut i would have to
remove it.


Juergen -- unfortunately, it doesn't. Your saw has a "riving knife"
that both tilts and moves up and down along with the arbor. It's a
superior technology. The OP's saw, like most sold in the US, has a
"splitter" that's in a fixed position and merely tilts with the arbor.
When the blade is cranked up or down, it changes position relative to
the splitter.

I've got the corresponding Bies splitter on my Unisaw. When the blade
is cranked all the way up the clearance between the blade and splitter
housing is very small -- probably 1/8" or so. OP might be able to solve
the problem by judicious application of a file to the splitter housing.

Abe
--
Replace ONE with the numeral for return email.

"lwwise" wrote in message
om...
The following went to Biesemeyer, Forrest and Powermatic. The
predictible response was: It's the other guy's fault. What do you
all think?

Work with Biesemeyer to find one that fits your saw. You wouldn't complain
to a car company if your replacement tires didn't fit would you?

If you are stuck with it, grind it to fit.

-Jack

I don't mean to state the obvious either, but most of us do, you
should not make changes to the blade height with the saw running. I
think you will find that most companies will tell you the same.

It's definitely a Splitter issue. Don't take no for an answer. Keep
moving up the food chain when you call them to complain. Most people
who answer the phone are merely talking from a script anyway.

On 18 Dec 2003 15:13:31 -0800, (Elmar) wrote:

I don't mean to state the obvious either, but most of us do, you
should not make changes to the blade height with the saw running. I
think you will find that most companies will tell you the same.

How would you deflower a zero clearance insert?

Barry

I installed a Merlin splittter on a Jet Contractor's saw and when the blade
is all the way up I can't believe how close it is. about 1/64 of an inch
clearance.

Although I like the slpitter, it's hard to believe that the company went to
market with a design that leaves so little clearance. I also had to do more
filing to the mount than was stated in the directions.

Ken

"lwwise" wrote in message
om...
The following went to Biesemeyer, Forrest and Powermatic. The
predictible response was: It's the other guy's fault. What do you
all think?






Give me some help here, guys. I recently purchased a Biesemeyer
Splitter stock number B78440 according to the box in which it arrived.
I installed it on my PM66 according to the instructions that arrived
with it.

I had earlier checked with Powermatic re the production date of my PM
66, serial number 01110662753, and had been told that the number
indicates a 2001 production date. A call to PM left me with the
information that it doesn't matter as nothing in the area of the saw
in question for changing a splitter was affected by the change from
2000 to 2001. See Biesemeyer's chart below indicating that the
cut-off dates were 1979 to August 2000 for two different part numbers.
Regardless, I checked with the local Bies dealer: Weatherford in
Austin, TX. I was told there that just as in the chart below, a saw
manufactured after 2000 requires part number B78440.

So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting
3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed
to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and
discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted
portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for
that blade to be cranked up while running (I know, bad form, but I've
seen many people do it) and knowing where the usual user's face is
located when he or she is cranking the blade higher, leads me to be
very glad that I can still see out of both eyes. So I unplugged the
saw. Took the splitter off, reinstalled it according to the same
instructions (there seem to be no degrees of freedom as to where the
splitter ends up if it is line with the blade i.e except for the
lateral adjustment from the left to the right side of the blade, there
is no method for placing the splitter closer to or further from the
blade in either a vertical direction or a front to back direction).
With the saw off and unplugged, I reinstalled the WWII, cranked the
blade up to approx 1 1/2" and $#&*^%& it is still touching the painted
portion of the splitter. What gives, guys?

Wrong part for the saw?

Wrong saw for the part?

Bies chart copied from web page:

Splitters - For Selected Table Saws
Printer Friendly Version click here
Increase table saw safety by adding our anti-kickback snap-in
spreader. Designed to reduce dangerous kickbacks, this spreader snaps
in instantly and removes easily on saws from several manufacturers.
Each spreader has a unique mounting bracket designed to easily mount
to the saw using the existing mounting holes for the saws factory
guard/spreader unit. Once the mounting bracket is installed, you can
be assured that the spreader will be aligned with the saw blade every
time it is removed and reinserted. The splitter blade is quickly
removed by taking out the table insert, pulling on the spring loaded
pin and pulling the blade out. Insert the spreader into the mounting
bracket until the spring loaded pin engages the hole in the splitter
blade to reinstall.

The Biesemeyer® T-Square® Anti-kickback Splitter Is designed to be
used inconjuction with a basket style blade guard. The splitters are
not intended to be used with a thin kerf blade. Minimum saw blade
thickness is 1/8".


After determining the correct part number, click on the Distributors
link at the bottom of the page to find a local dealer.

SAW PART NO. NOTES
Delta Unisaw (right tilt) 78-961 Delta Unisaw Rt Tilt & Grizzly 1023
Delta Unisaw (left tilt) 78-431 Delta Unisaw Left Tilt
Delta Contractor's saw 78-963
Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw 78-963
Delta 12-14 (older 12-14 saw) 78-968 Does not fit the RT-40

Jet JTAS-10 (right tilt) B78451
Jet JTAS-10 (left tilt) B78453
Jet JWTS-10 B78452 Jet JWTS-10 & Powermatic 64 (does not fit the
Powermatic 64A)

General 350 B78461 Must be used with a zero clearance insert

Powermatic 66 B78441 Saws 1979 - August 2000
Powermatic 66 B78440 Saws Pre 1979 & Post 2000
Powermatic 63 B78444



Copyright © Biesemeyer - 2001 all rights reserved.




A prompt reply would be appreciated. You may catch me during the day
at the numbers below.

Mine was also slightly too large so I merely ground off a "little".
Too much and it won't function. Actually I filed it off; grinding can
do too much too quickly.

On 18 Dec 2003 07:41:29 -0800, (lwwise) wrote:

The following went to Biesemeyer, Forrest and Powermatic. The
predictible response was: It's the other guy's fault. What do you
all think?






Give me some help here, guys. I recently purchased a Biesemeyer
Splitter stock number B78440 according to the box in which it arrived.
I installed it on my PM66 according to the instructions that arrived
with it.

I had earlier checked with Powermatic re the production date of my PM
66, serial number 01110662753, and had been told that the number
indicates a 2001 production date. A call to PM left me with the
information that it doesn't matter as nothing in the area of the saw
in question for changing a splitter was affected by the change from
2000 to 2001. See Biesemeyer's chart below indicating that the
cut-off dates were 1979 to August 2000 for two different part numbers.
Regardless, I checked with the local Bies dealer: Weatherford in
Austin, TX. I was told there that just as in the chart below, a saw
manufactured after 2000 requires part number B78440.

So I ordered such part, installed it in my PM66 and have been cutting
3/4 cherry and walnut ever since. Then comes the problem. I needed
to make some legs from 8/4 stock, so I cranked the saw blade up and
discovered to my horror that the WWII was contacting the painted
portion of the Bies Splitter. Knowing that it is not too unusual for
that blade to be cranked up while running (I know, bad form, but I've
seen many people do it) and knowing where the usual user's face is
located when he or she is cranking the blade higher, leads me to be
very glad that I can still see out of both eyes. So I unplugged the
saw. Took the splitter off, reinstalled it according to the same
instructions (there seem to be no degrees of freedom as to where the
splitter ends up if it is line with the blade i.e except for the
lateral adjustment from the left to the right side of the blade, there
is no method for placing the splitter closer to or further from the
blade in either a vertical direction or a front to back direction).
With the saw off and unplugged, I reinstalled the WWII, cranked the
blade up to approx 1 1/2" and $#&*^%& it is still touching the painted
portion of the splitter. What gives, guys?

Wrong part for the saw?

Wrong saw for the part?

Bies chart copied from web page:

Splitters - For Selected Table Saws
Printer Friendly Version click here
Increase table saw safety by adding our anti-kickback snap-in
spreader. Designed to reduce dangerous kickbacks, this spreader snaps
in instantly and removes easily on saws from several manufacturers.
Each spreader has a unique mounting bracket designed to easily mount
to the saw using the existing mounting holes for the saws factory
guard/spreader unit. Once the mounting bracket is installed, you can
be assured that the spreader will be aligned with the saw blade every
time it is removed and reinserted. The splitter blade is quickly
removed by taking out the table insert, pulling on the spring loaded
pin and pulling the blade out. Insert the spreader into the mounting
bracket until the spring loaded pin engages the hole in the splitter
blade to reinstall.

The Biesemeyer® T-Square® Anti-kickback Splitter Is designed to be
used inconjuction with a basket style blade guard. The splitters are
not intended to be used with a thin kerf blade. Minimum saw blade
thickness is 1/8".


After determining the correct part number, click on the Distributors
link at the bottom of the page to find a local dealer.

SAW PART NO. NOTES
Delta Unisaw (right tilt) 78-961 Delta Unisaw Rt Tilt & Grizzly 1023
Delta Unisaw (left tilt) 78-431 Delta Unisaw Left Tilt
Delta Contractor's saw 78-963
Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw 78-963
Delta 12-14 (older 12-14 saw) 78-968 Does not fit the RT-40

Jet JTAS-10 (right tilt) B78451
Jet JTAS-10 (left tilt) B78453
Jet JWTS-10 B78452 Jet JWTS-10 & Powermatic 64 (does not fit the
Powermatic 64A)

General 350 B78461 Must be used with a zero clearance insert

Powermatic 66 B78441 Saws 1979 - August 2000
Powermatic 66 B78440 Saws Pre 1979 & Post 2000
Powermatic 63 B78444



Copyright © Biesemeyer - 2001 all rights reserved.




A prompt reply would be appreciated. You may catch me during the day
at the numbers below.

Maybe it's Delta's way (they own Biesmeyer) of shafting PM owners.

Contact the Biesmeyer legal department, and explain how you almost lost an eye,
and then tell them all you want is a properly fitting splitter. My guess is you
will have one FedExed to you, with few coupons.

It does sound like the wrong splitter is on the saw.

Let's try another way of determining which splitter to use.

Is the trunion on your PM66 painted black or gold?

If gold then try the B78441
If black then try B78440

Biesemeyer is good to work with. Ask them to send you two bodies (the
actual splitter is the same), one B78441 and one B78440. See if the
B78440 is the same as the one you installed (is the hole in the same
place), if not then the B78440 you have might be defective. If
they're the same then the B78441 might work for you.

Powermatic 66 B78441 Saws 1979 - August 2000
Powermatic 66 B78440 Saws Pre 1979 & Post 2000
Powermatic 63 B78444



Copyright © Biesemeyer - 2001 all rights reserved.




A prompt reply would be appreciated. You may catch me during the day
at the numbers below.

Thanks to all who responded, even the inane "a ten inch blade is a ten
inch blade." Turns out that the WWII *IS* somewhat greater than an
eighth on an inch greater in diameter than all the other blades that I
have. No scientific sample but the two DeWalts and the Freud are
within thousandths of the same diameter based on lining them up on the
cast iron table and feeling the overlap with a well calibrated finger.
I don't have the means of measuring the diameter to a thousandth, but
the measurement from the outside of the arbor hole to the edge of the
tooth is approx .07+ inches greater on the WWII. That makes for .14+
inches greater in diameter. MUCH greater than I would have expected.
All the other blades work just fine with the splitter. Sure seems
someone else would have seen the problem before I did. Maybe Bies or
Forrest should let people know. I'll remind you all that the response
from the lady at Bies was "You using a Forrest blade?"

hey, bozo, here's a case when a 10 inch blade, ISN'T ten inches. So why
are you bellyaching at my response? I TOLD you a 10 inch blade should
be 10 inches, and your Forest WASN'T. SO that gives you license to make
a rude response about my "inane" statement. MORON! See if I ever clue
you in again, you ungrateful wretch! Jeez!

Merry Christmas!

lwwise wrote:

Thanks to all who responded, even the inane "a ten inch blade is a ten
inch blade." Turns out that the WWII *IS* somewhat greater than an
eighth on an inch greater in diameter than all the other blades that I
have. No scientific sample but the two DeWalts and the Freud are
within thousandths of the same diameter based on lining them up on the
cast iron table and feeling the overlap with a well calibrated finger.
I don't have the means of measuring the diameter to a thousandth, but
the measurement from the outside of the arbor hole to the edge of the
tooth is approx .07+ inches greater on the WWII. That makes for .14+
inches greater in diameter. MUCH greater than I would have expected.
All the other blades work just fine with the splitter. Sure seems
someone else would have seen the problem before I did. Maybe Bies or
Forrest should let people know. I'll remind you all that the response
from the lady at Bies was "You using a Forrest blade?"

Bay Area Dave wrote in message om...
See if I ever clue you in again, you ungrateful wretch! Jeez!


dave/fow,
How did you clue him in? By giving erroneous information? Then, or
course, you have to attempt to hide your ignorance by throwing
insults. Well, guess what, your attempt at hiding didn't work.

Your next recourse will be to say you were jusy kidding, then it's
time for fow to make an appearance. It's all getting very tiring.
Just go away. Go back to spamming the camera, health, and dog groups.

The sad part is, you wouldn't say any of this to somebody face to
face. You'd just sit in the corner with your needle dick stuffed
between your legs.

Dave, this guy thinks were the same person. Ha !
"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...
hey, bozo, here's a case when a 10 inch blade, ISN'T ten inches. So why
are you bellyaching at my response? I TOLD you a 10 inch blade should
be 10 inches, and your Forest WASN'T. SO that gives you license to make
a rude response about my "inane" statement. MORON! See if I ever clue
you in again, you ungrateful wretch! Jeez!

Merry Christmas!

lwwise wrote:

Thanks to all who responded, even the inane "a ten inch blade is a ten
inch blade." Turns out that the WWII *IS* somewhat greater than an
eighth on an inch greater in diameter than all the other blades that I
have. No scientific sample but the two DeWalts and the Freud are
within thousandths of the same diameter based on lining them up on the
cast iron table and feeling the overlap with a well calibrated finger.
I don't have the means of measuring the diameter to a thousandth, but
the measurement from the outside of the arbor hole to the edge of the
tooth is approx .07+ inches greater on the WWII. That makes for .14+
inches greater in diameter. MUCH greater than I would have expected.
All the other blades work just fine with the splitter. Sure seems
someone else would have seen the problem before I did. Maybe Bies or
Forrest should let people know. I'll remind you all that the response
from the lady at Bies was "You using a Forrest blade?"