I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta. The
owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect, according
to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a table saw and
prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What do you think?

"SBH" wrote in message
news:ErmdnXl7Ret_w4fVnZ2dnUVZ_rSrnZ2d@wideopenwest .com...
I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
do you think?

As long as you have the space and a use for it, go for it.

SBH wrote:
I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by
Delta. The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact
age, but is guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and
works
perfect, according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because
he bought a table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking
$75 for it. What do you think?

Assuming it actually works and you can move it without getting a
hernia, go for it.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"SBH" wrote in message
news:ErmdnXl7Ret_w4fVnZ2dnUVZ_rSrnZ2d@wideopenwest .com...
I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
do you think?

I got one a few years ago for $50. Needed a few parts which you can still
get. http://www.mikestools.com/Delta-Radi...ists_2290.aspx

Mine works great
mike

I would check it out under power!!! I had one of about the same vintage.
It was under powered as to be dangerous.

Chuck P.

"David Starr" wrote in message
...
SBH wrote:
I have the opportunity to purchase a much older radial arm saw by Delta.
The owner inherited it from his dad and not sure of the exact age, but is
guessing in the 50s. It's all steel, no plastic and works perfect,
according to him, I've yet to see it. He's selling because he bought a
table saw and prefers using it over the RAS. He's asking $75 for it. What
do you think?
That's a fair price. I see plenty of them on Craigslist for about that.
Delta is a good name. Check the size, I perfer a 10 inch model over an 8
incher. A radial arm saw will make all the cuts a table saw will with
just one minor exception. If it runs and cuts and you like it then it's
worth it. If you go for it, think about splurging on a new carbide blade.
On the other hand, if you don't like it, there are plenty more out on
Craigslist.


--
David J. Starr

Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do that the
TS can't but none the other way around.

David Starr wrote:
Curran Copeland wrote:


Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do that
the TS can't but none the other way around.

You cannot make finger lap joints with a RAS, whereas it is straight
forward on a table saw.


If I understand what you're saying, I think a half aux table on the RAS
would allow you to raise the work so that you could cut them with the
blade bevel set horizontally. Also, if I understand what you're saying,
a RAS can cut the finger joints in any length board (if you open a
door or window) whereas the work has to be run vertically on the TS.

David Starr wrote:
Doug Winterburn wrote:
David Starr wrote:
Curran Copeland wrote:


Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Whats the minor exception? I can tink of a couple the RAS can do
that the TS can't but none the other way around.

You cannot make finger lap joints with a RAS, whereas it is straight
forward on a table saw.


If I understand what you're saying, I think a half aux table on the
RAS would allow you to raise the work so that you could cut them with
the blade bevel set horizontally. Also, if I understand what you're
saying, a RAS can cut the finger joints in any length board (if you
open a door or window) whereas the work has to be run vertically on
the TS.

I made such a table, and use it for cutting tenons and thru mortices
with the sawblade in the horizontal position. To do fingerlap joints
with that table, you would have to raise the power head with the column
height crank to do each finger. Without far greater precision than I
can manage, the finger spacing would not be uniform enough for two
pieces to mate up and fit tightly. With a table saw, you fix a wooden
key to the miter guide that slips into the freshly cut finger and spaces
the next finger cut just right. The board is held vertically to the
table for this trick.
With the key jig on the table saw, the fingerlap joints will fit
together tightly.
I only use fingerlap joints for things like boxes and drawers, so
overhead clearance has never been a problem for me. As it is, I have
just a radial arm saw, and when I need to do fingerlap joints I take the
job over to a relative who has a table saw.

I didn't understand - you're talking box joints. I was thinking finger
joints running with the width of a board so as to join two boards end to
end.