I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48") section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just
a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Several things come into play.

First, almost all plywood has some bow to it and the larger the piece the
more likely. Small pieces reduce this bow. If the bow causes the wood to
lift from the table at the blade, the cut at that point has no support as
the blade cuts down through the bottom of the panel. Tear out is the usual
result.

Second, to help reduce this on smaller panels and all other cuts use a zero
clearance insert. This supports the wood up to the point of contact with
the blade.

Third, a better blade will give you better results. A good all around blade
for solid woods, plywoods, MDF whether ripping, cross cutting or making
compound angle cuts is the Forrest WWII. Pricey but unless I cut dado's on
my saw I use that blade for all cuts.

Easier than changing a blade, which would also be a good idea, is to lay a strip of masking tape over the cut line to keep the veneer where it belongs.

P D Q


"Leon" wrote in message ...

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just
a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Several things come into play.

First, almost all plywood has some bow to it and the larger the piece the
more likely. Small pieces reduce this bow. If the bow causes the wood to
lift from the table at the blade, the cut at that point has no support as
the blade cuts down through the bottom of the panel. Tear out is the usual
result.

Second, to help reduce this on smaller panels and all other cuts use a zero
clearance insert. This supports the wood up to the point of contact with
the blade.

Third, a better blade will give you better results. A good all around blade
for solid woods, plywoods, MDF whether ripping, cross cutting or making
compound angle cuts is the Forrest WWII. Pricey but unless I cut dado's on
my saw I use that blade for all cuts.

"Puckdropper" wrote:


I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been
cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this
just a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking
at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on
rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Cutting 4x8 sheet goods on a table saw can be a real PITA unless you
have adequate infeed and runout tables.

Trying to cut sheet goods down to size using a rip blade is also a
PITA.

Changing blades is NBD, IMHO.

Suggest you consider a good set of carbide tipped blades, 24T, 50T &
80T for your T/S and use a saber or circular saw to break down sheet
goods into proud pieces that are then finished at the T/S.

Using an 80T blade and a zero clearance insert, you will get clean
cuts.

Why fight changing blades?

WFM

YMMV

Lew

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this
just a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at?
Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on
rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm


A cutting rack, a guide and a circular saw with a good blade will solve
all that.
No blade changing, accurate cuts and no tear out.
IMHO.

Max

On 29 Apr 2008 20:38:28 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48") section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Puckdropper


If you see a hairy edge the blade may be dull. There are combination
blades designed to cut various materials. While this kind of blade
reduces blade changing, you will get a better cut using a blade
designed for the specific kind of material. Blade quality as well as
sharpness makes a big difference. Perhaps you should try a blade
specifically designed for laminated materials. One recommendation is
to place good-side down and raise the blade.

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
On 29 Apr 2008 20:38:28 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I'm using the stock blade that came with my saw, and have been cutting
plywood with it. On the cuts where I'm cutting from a large (48")
section,
I tended to get a lot of tearout on the veneer layer. However, when
cutting smaller sections (16-24"), I got much less tearout. Is this just
a
technique thing, or is it the blade's fault too?

If it's the blade's fault, what kind of blades should I be looking at? Is
there one that will do an excellent job on plywood and a good job on rip
cuts? (Changing blades isn't my idea of fun.)

Puckdropper


If you see a hairy edge the blade may be dull. There are combination
blades designed to cut various materials. While this kind of blade
reduces blade changing, you will get a better cut using a blade
designed for the specific kind of material. Blade quality as well as
sharpness makes a big difference. Perhaps you should try a blade
specifically designed for laminated materials. One recommendation is
to place good-side down and raise the blade.

Some blades cut differently at different projections. Test cut the plywood
with the blade fully raised and compare with one that is just slightly
higher than the wood. You will find that the best cut is often with the
blade projecting about 1/4" above the wood, but some blades will have their
best cut at a different position.

"BobS" wrote in
:

Phisherman said:

One recommendation is to place good-side down and raise the blade.

Even with a zero-clearance insert I don't think putting the good side
down on a tablesaw is a good idea. But I've never tried doing it that
way either. Does that really work?

Bob S.



I doubt it. Where I got the most tearout was actually on the lower side.
The cutting of the teeth pulled the veneer away from the glued surface.

Puckdropper
--
New Computer! Working out the migration details...

David Starr wrote in
:


If you get tearout on big pieces but not on small pieces it does
suggest that the big plywood sheets are bowing and the underside is
lifting off the saw table. Rasseling a 4*8 piece of sheet goods thru
a table saw or a RAS single handed is difficult, and you have to
expect a bit of sag in the material as it hangs off the ends and sides
of the table. If the stuff lifts off the table just a skosh, you can
get tearout. Wings on the table, roller stands, and/or a helper might
improve the cut.
As far as blades go. Back in the steel blade days I had (still
have)
a rip blade, a planer blade and a plywood blade. And the plywood
blade did give a smoother cut on plywood. Then I got a plain old
Vermont American 40 tooth carbide blade at the Borg. It cuts
everything smoother than any of the steel blades ever did, and it's
still doing it after a long long time on the saw. Far as I am
concerned, any decent carbide blade with a goodly number of teeth is
about as good as it gets.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I'll put a better blade on my
wishlist, and keep an eye out. I know several people in here like the
Forest WWII, so I'll definately look for that.

I'm certain the plywood was bowing a bit. I'll have to see what I can do
about it next time. (Cross cut sled, perhaps?)

Puckdropper
--
This .sig typed manually.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
David Starr wrote in
:
..

I'm certain the plywood was bowing a bit. I'll have to see what I can do
about it next time. (Cross cut sled, perhaps?)


A cross cut sled can certainly help on many cuts but will not help if the
stock bows up, it will still bow up on the sled also.

On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:31:44 -0400, BobS wrote:

Phisherman said:

One recommendation is to place good-side down and raise the blade.

Even with a zero-clearance insert I don't think putting the good side down
on a tablesaw is a good idea. But I've never tried doing it that way either.
Does that really work?

Bob S.

Naaah - he got it backwards. Good side down for a circular saw, up for a
table saw.

On Thu, 01 May 2008 15:32:07 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I'll put a better blade on my
wishlist, and keep an eye out. I know several people in here like the
Forest WWII, so I'll definately look for that.

That's a good blade and I've used it, but I still like a plywood blade for
plywood. I replaced my old one with a new Freud a month or so ago and it
works great. Even on the down side any chipout is hard to see.

On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:31:44 -0400, "BobS" wrote:

Phisherman said:

One recommendation is to place good-side down and raise the blade.

Even with a zero-clearance insert I don't think putting the good side down
on a tablesaw is a good idea. But I've never tried doing it that way either.
Does that really work?

No.


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