I finished oak desk with two coats of boiled linseed oil. Should I
protect it with polyurethane?

On Apr 27, 8:11*am, Sasha wrote:
I finished oak desk with two coats of boiled linseed oil. Should I
protect it with polyurethane?

I would apply a couple of coats of polyurethane or at least a few
coats of shellac.....

Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com

On Apr 27, 9:26 am, randyswoodshoop wrote:
On Apr 27, 8:11 am, Sasha wrote:

I finished oak desk with two coats of boiled linseed oil. Should I
protect it with polyurethane?

I would apply a couple of coats of polyurethane or at least a few
coats of shellac.....


Yes I would think that for a desk you would want a good hard
smooth surface. Water-based polyurethane can be applied
over de-waxed shellac. I"ve used orange (amber) shellac to
warm up the color of oak and then applied water-based
poyurethane with a pad.

--

FF

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 10:51:06 -0400, "Charley"
wrote:

I've done it many times. Be sure to sand the surface of the Linseed Oil to
give the polyurethane something to adhere to.

Not necessary, in my experience.

Oil based polyurethane and/or vanishes (Waterlox, Rockhard) will
adhere perfectly to surface colored with BLO.

I use BLO as a colorant under shellac, oil based finishes, lacquer,
and water based lacquers. All will stick perfectly if the oil is dry.
If the oil is not dry, waterbased finishes will fisheye, and oil based
and shellac finishes will get "blooms", yellowish spots where the oil
is weeping underneath.

My favorite way to color with BLO is "Robert's Sealer" as it dries
extremely fast (10 times faster than straight BLO), and slightly seals
the surface. WB can go right over this. It's made with 1/3 each of
BLO, Seal Coat or dewaxed shellac, and real turpentine.


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"B A R R Y" wrote:

My favorite way to color with BLO is "Robert's Sealer" as it dries
extremely fast (10 times faster than straight BLO), and slightly
seals
the surface. WB can go right over this. It's made with 1/3 each
of
BLO, Seal Coat or dewaxed shellac, and real turpentine.

Since the BLO needs to be cut with turps (Per instructions on
container) anyway, what does adding shellac do for you?

Lew

On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:01:37 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Since the BLO needs to be cut with turps (Per instructions on
container) anyway, what does adding shellac do for you?

Fast sealing. Try it yourself, it's fantastic. I have not yet found
a better product for a natural look on any species of oak. Much more
user friendly and faster than thinned BLO or "Natural" stains. _NO_
bleed back, overcoat with anything the next day.

One comment, though... "Turps", the modified stuff, is not the same
as "Turpentine", maybe it'll work, maybe it won't.

Turpentine, as in the 100% pine tree stuff, works well.

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"B A R R Y" wrote:

Fast sealing. Try it yourself, it's fantastic. I have not yet
found
a better product for a natural look on any species of oak. Much
more
user friendly and faster than thinned BLO or "Natural" stains. _NO_
bleed back, overcoat with anything the next day.

One comment, though... "Turps", the modified stuff, is not the same
as "Turpentine", maybe it'll work, maybe it won't.

Turpentine, as in the 100% pine tree stuff, works well.

Must say I have developed a fondness for white oak and BLO, then
finished off with just bees wax cut with turps and BLO.

Not much protectiion, but there are no longer small kids around.

What cut shellac do you use?

Lew

On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 03:35:11 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:



What cut shellac do you use?


Seal Coat, straight from the can, which I think is 2lb.

Remember, mineral sprits based "Turps" won't work, only pine sap based
Turpentine will do.

I mix it in a squeeze bottle, as it needs to be continuously shaken as
it's used. Squirt it on, rag it evenly, wipe again 10 minutes later
with a dry rag, ready for any top coat the next day. You can also
sand it and recoat, if desired.

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"B A R R Y" wrote:

Remember, mineral sprits based "Turps" won't work, only pine sap
based
Turpentine will do.

Let your sniffern be your guide, love the smell of the good stuff.G


I mix it in a squeeze bottle, as it needs to be continuously shaken
as
it's used. Squirt it on, rag it evenly, wipe again 10 minutes
later
with a dry rag, ready for any top coat the next day. You can also
sand it and recoat, if desired.

I'll keep this one handy, thanks.

BTW, what ratio shellac?

1 BLO, 2 turps, ? shellac.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
news:q45Sj.14184$E77.7800@trnddc05...

"B A R R Y" wrote:

Remember, mineral sprits based "Turps" won't work, only pine sap based
Turpentine will do.

Let your sniffern be your guide, love the smell of the good stuff.G


I mix it in a squeeze bottle, as it needs to be continuously shaken as
it's used. Squirt it on, rag it evenly, wipe again 10 minutes later
with a dry rag, ready for any top coat the next day. You can also
sand it and recoat, if desired.

I'll keep this one handy, thanks.

BTW, what ratio shellac?

1 BLO, 2 turps, ? shellac.

Lew

i use 1:1:1

On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 20:59:02 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


BTW, what ratio shellac?

1 BLO, 2 turps, ? shellac.


33.3333333333333333% each

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On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:07:58 -0700, "charlie"
wrote:


i use 1:1:1


C'mon! You can't express it _that_ simply! G

There's got to be some sort of special tool for measuring the
ingredients.

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"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:07:58 -0700, "charlie"
wrote:


i use 1:1:1


C'mon! You can't express it _that_ simply! G

There's got to be some sort of special tool for measuring the
ingredients.

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there is. an old jelly jar with sharpie marks on the side.

On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:37:57 -0700, "charlie"
wrote:

there is. an old jelly jar with sharpie marks on the side.



Is it calibrated with to sub-micron precision? G

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