Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts. Most
of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
woodworker's show.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...edge_fence.jpg

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

In article k.net,
says...
Just finished a bandsaw fence --

[snip]

Thanks for posting this. I've been pondering whether to buy a fence or
build one, and these photos have convinced me to build one, pronto.

CharlesJ
--
================================================== ======================
Charles Jones | Works at HP, | email:
Hewlett-Packard | doesn't speak | ICQ: 29610755
Loveland, Colorado | for HP | AIM: LovelandCharles
USA | |Jabber:

Very nice. I've bookmarked the pages reference for when I finally get my
bandsaw.

Thanks for posting.


"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message
news
Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts.
Most
of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
woodworker's show.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...edge_fence.jpg

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

You are really putting the rest of us to shame...

More great ideas from a great shop.


Ken Vaughn wrote:

Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts. Most
of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
woodworker's show.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...edge_fence.jpg

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message

Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails.

Nice fence, but the shop is a fake. No one has a shop that is THAT clean.

Looks like a system that can be easily expanded for specialty jigs if need
be. Well thought out.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

I have received some personal emails requesting information and measurements
for the bandsaw fence I posted on "rec.woodworking". The following is a
composite reply which I will send to those individuals and also post to the
"rec" for those who may be interested -- that way the information will be in
the archives.

Plans? -- sorry but I didn't draw any -- its a pretty simple jig -- adjust
the size and shape for your bandsaw -- mine is a Jet, which is similar to
the Delta 14"

Rails? -- I used some well dried oak that I had around -- any stable
hardwood should be fine -- maple would work well. Mine are 1 1/2" by 1 1/2"
by 23" long. I cut the dado slot for the T-track pretty tight, and put a
few dabs of J.B.Weld metal epoxy on the sides of the T-track before pressing
it into the slot.
Screws through the bottom of the T-track of course. I also drilled pilot
holes from one side of each rail and put four #6 screws into that side such
that only the points of the screws cross-pinned the T-track (just to be
safe). I mounted my rails flush with the surface of the table -- I
considered dropping them down about 1/4" but decided to flush mount which
effectively increases the size of the table. On my bandsaw I required 6mm
bolts to fit the table's pre-drilled mounting holes.

T-square cross bracket? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch, 3 1/2" by 20 1/4". I drilled
the hole for the front knob oversize, and made the hole for the rear knob a
slot to allow for setting the cross bracket at an angle when a blade
exhibits drift. The front member which bears against the rail is 12" long,
but this isn't critical. My fixture knobs use a 3/8" diameter bolt, again
not critical. I considered fine sandpaper between the two T-square members,
but don't think I will need it. A 3/8" lock bolt and washers joins the two
members.

Fence members ? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch 15" to 16" long depending on need for
clearance for the cross bracket knobs. The rip fence is 2 1/4" high and was
made from some hard maple I had on hand, the resaw fence from 3/4" by 6" by
16" UHMW plastic supported by 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" aluminum angle. The curved
fence member was made from walnut -- any hardwood would do. Fixture knobs
use a 5/16" bolt, but that is not critical

--
Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message
news
Just finished a bandsaw fence

(snip)

Ken Vaughn
Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/


This is one invitation I seldom turn down.

By the way, nice fence. :-)

UA100

Hi Ken,

great looking fence, look like it goes on the short list :-) One thing
in your description confuses me, you have gone to extreme lengths to
insure that the t-track does not separate from the rails but there is
very little "up" force put on the fence if the rails are flush with the
table. Am I missing something? I have a t-track in my router table and
it sits 1/32 low in the table and I have never had any problem with the
track lifting.

BRuce

Ken Vaughn wrote:
I have received some personal emails requesting information and measurements
for the bandsaw fence I posted on "rec.woodworking". The following is a
composite reply which I will send to those individuals and also post to the
"rec" for those who may be interested -- that way the information will be in
the archives.

Plans? -- sorry but I didn't draw any -- its a pretty simple jig -- adjust
the size and shape for your bandsaw -- mine is a Jet, which is similar to
the Delta 14"

Rails? -- I used some well dried oak that I had around -- any stable
hardwood should be fine -- maple would work well. Mine are 1 1/2" by 1 1/2"
by 23" long. I cut the dado slot for the T-track pretty tight, and put a
few dabs of J.B.Weld metal epoxy on the sides of the T-track before pressing
it into the slot.
Screws through the bottom of the T-track of course. I also drilled pilot
holes from one side of each rail and put four #6 screws into that side such
that only the points of the screws cross-pinned the T-track (just to be
safe). I mounted my rails flush with the surface of the table -- I
considered dropping them down about 1/4" but decided to flush mount which
effectively increases the size of the table. On my bandsaw I required 6mm
bolts to fit the table's pre-drilled mounting holes.

T-square cross bracket? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch, 3 1/2" by 20 1/4". I drilled
the hole for the front knob oversize, and made the hole for the rear knob a
slot to allow for setting the cross bracket at an angle when a blade
exhibits drift. The front member which bears against the rail is 12" long,
but this isn't critical. My fixture knobs use a 3/8" diameter bolt, again
not critical. I considered fine sandpaper between the two T-square members,
but don't think I will need it. A 3/8" lock bolt and washers joins the two
members.

Fence members ? -- 3/4" Baltic Birch 15" to 16" long depending on need for
clearance for the cross bracket knobs. The rip fence is 2 1/4" high and was
made from some hard maple I had on hand, the resaw fence from 3/4" by 6" by
16" UHMW plastic supported by 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" aluminum angle. The curved
fence member was made from walnut -- any hardwood would do. Fixture knobs
use a 5/16" bolt, but that is not critical

BRuce wrote in message news:1070455474.882406@sj-nntpcache-3...
Hi Ken,

great looking fence, look like it goes on the short list :-) One thing
in your description confuses me, you have gone to extreme lengths to
insure that the t-track does not separate from the rails but there is
very little "up" force put on the fence if the rails are flush with the
table. Am I missing something? I have a t-track in my router table and
it sits 1/32 low in the table and I have never had any problem with the
track lifting.

BRuce

You are correct in that there should not be much lifting force with the
rails mounted flush with the table. When I started to make the rails, I was
thinking of dropping them down below the edge of the table, and was
concerned about the lifting force. I've been told that I tend to
over-engineer.

One of the reasons that I chose to flush mount the rails is that I plan to
make a simple sled for slicing small log sections and tree branches in
preparation for making turning blanks for my lathe. The rails add an extra
3 inches to the front to back table footprint (several inches left to right)
and should help with stability. I have an aggressive cut thicker blade on
order from Suffolk Machinery for this purpose.

Ken

ok, I reread your post and then figured you had them made before
deciding where to mount. Another case of "just in time" engineering. I
have the Jet also so it should not take any time to put one of these
together. Delivered my current project today so I should have time in
the next 3 weeks to get some of the shop upgrades done.

Let me (us) know how the blade works out and which one it is. I have a
lot of small logs that I would like to turn into turnings also.

BRuce

Ken Vaughn wrote:

BRuce wrote in message news:1070455474.882406@sj-nntpcache-3...

Hi Ken,

great looking fence, look like it goes on the short list :-) One thing
in your description confuses me, you have gone to extreme lengths to
insure that the t-track does not separate from the rails but there is
very little "up" force put on the fence if the rails are flush with the
table. Am I missing something? I have a t-track in my router table and
it sits 1/32 low in the table and I have never had any problem with the
track lifting.

BRuce


You are correct in that there should not be much lifting force with the
rails mounted flush with the table. When I started to make the rails, I was
thinking of dropping them down below the edge of the table, and was
concerned about the lifting force. I've been told that I tend to
over-engineer.

One of the reasons that I chose to flush mount the rails is that I plan to
make a simple sled for slicing small log sections and tree branches in
preparation for making turning blanks for my lathe. The rails add an extra
3 inches to the front to back table footprint (several inches left to right)
and should help with stability. I have an aggressive cut thicker blade on
order from Suffolk Machinery for this purpose.

Ken

Well Ken, how does it feel to be a "legend" in your own
time ???

Ken Vaughn wrote:

I have received some personal emails requesting information and measurements
for the bandsaw fence I posted on "rec.woodworking". The following is a
composite reply which I will send to those individuals and also post to the
"rec" for those who may be interested -- that way the information will be in
the archives.

"Ken Vaughn" wrote in message thlink.net...
Just finished a bandsaw fence -- rails are oak with heavy duty T-track to
which a T-square cross bracket is clamped. The bracket can be angled to
compensate for blade drift or set perpendicular to the rails. The bracket
holds different fence configurations -- three at the moment -- rip fence,
resaw fence, and a curved edge fence for making parallel curved cuts. Most
of the hardware and the UHMW plastic piece was purchased at a recent
woodworker's show.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/bandsaw_rails.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/t_square.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/rip_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/resaw_fence.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65...edge_fence.jpg
Nice work Ken. I think, I'll do the same too.

Al

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
Well Ken, how does it feel to be a "legend" in your own
time ???

Hi Pat,

At least you didn't say " ... legend in your own mind" grin

Jigs seem to be of universal interest to woodworkers. My ISP provides
statistics on personal websites (Urchin product) and every month the most
visited page by a factor of 2 is my page on shop made jigs. Actually, I
added some other new jigs recently, but we will leave that as an exercise
for the reader.

Regards, Ken