See Picture at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 4 doors on
bottom of cabinet, 2
on the outside are inset with a 1/16" reveal the 2 middle doors
need to be overlay by 3/8 to 1/2" to cover the divider in order
to support shelf. I have bored (35mm) holes 7/8 of an inch from
edge and 4" from top and bottom. I'm using 107 degree snap on
blum
hinges but having a problem determining mounting plate. Any
ideas?

Thanks,
Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

"Rich" wrote in message
news:vHVGj.4832$Ew5.2923@trnddc04...
See Picture at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 4 doors on
bottom of cabinet, 2
on the outside are inset with a 1/16" reveal the 2 middle doors
need to be overlay by 3/8 to 1/2" to cover the divider in order
to support shelf. I have bored (35mm) holes 7/8 of an inch from
edge and 4" from top and bottom. I'm using 107 degree snap on
blum
hinges but having a problem determining mounting plate. Any
ideas?

Thanks,
Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"


I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the edge. Is that
what the instructions call for?

"Leon" wrote in message
. net...




I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the edge. Is that
what the instructions call for?


The reason I ask this question is that these Euro style hinges typically
have to be located a specific distance from the edge. Too far from the edge
and you cannot open the door. Because there are almost countless variations
and over lay options available with these style hinges it is going to be
difficult to suggest how the hinge should be mounted other than what the
instructions dictate. Typically you have the opportunity to mount anywhere
you wan,t up and down, but location from the edge of the door is quite
critical.

Leon wrote:


"Rich" wrote in message
news:vHVGj.4832$Ew5.2923@trnddc04...
See Picture at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 4 doors on
bottom of cabinet, 2
on the outside are inset with a 1/16" reveal the 2 middle
doors need to be overlay by 3/8 to 1/2" to cover the divider
in order
to support shelf. I have bored (35mm) holes 7/8 of an inch
from edge and 4" from top and bottom. I'm using 107 degree
snap on blum
hinges but having a problem determining mounting plate. Any
ideas?

Thanks,
Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"


I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?
It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup locations
except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope not or I will
be building these doors over and that would just suck!!!!
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Leon wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
. net...




I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?


The reason I ask this question is that these Euro style hinges
typically
have to be located a specific distance from the edge. Too far
from the edge
and you cannot open the door. Because there are almost
countless variations and over lay options available with these
style hinges it is going to be difficult to suggest how the
hinge should be mounted other than what the
instructions dictate. Typically you have the opportunity to
mount anywhere you wan,t up and down, but location from the
edge of the door is quite critical.
Thought that the mounting plate size or offset determined flush
mount or inset and overlay position. It's been awhile since I
have done cab doors so I could be wrong.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...
Leon wrote:



I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?
It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup locations
except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope not or I will
be building these doors over and that would just suck!!!!


I have probably drilled 3 or 4 hundred holes for these style hinges and in
my particular case the distance from the edge was always 1/8" Typically the
mechanics and or mounting plate of the hinge determine the amount of over
lay. If you know the model number of that particular Blum hinge you should
be able to find the particulars.

See if this helps but as it looks you may need to get different mounting
plates to suite you over lay needs.

http://wwhardware.com/media/products...107cliptop.pdf

Leon wrote:
"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...

Leon wrote:


I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?

It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup locations
except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope not or I will
be building these doors over and that would just suck!!!!



I have probably drilled 3 or 4 hundred holes for these style hinges and in
my particular case the distance from the edge was always 1/8" Typically the
mechanics and or mounting plate of the hinge determine the amount of over
lay. If you know the model number of that particular Blum hinge you should
be able to find the particulars.

See if this helps but as it looks you may need to get different mounting
plates to suite you over lay needs.

http://wwhardware.com/media/products...107cliptop.pdf



1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge of door to
center of cup.

7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Rich" wrote
Leon wrote:


I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?
It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup locations
except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope not or I will
be building these doors over and that would just suck!!!!
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Well, you "could" plug the present holes and drill new ones. If you cut
plugs that fit well, glue them and sand them down, they shouldn't show with
the white paint finish. G
But, I think the prescribed distance from the edge is more like 1/8" to
maybe 3/8".

Max

"Nova" wrote in message
news:x2XGj.3296$Xl2.727@trndny01...
Leon wrote:
"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...

1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge of door to
center of cup.

7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.


Typically the measurement for these type hinges are from the edge of the
door to the edge of the hole, not the center of the hole.

Somebody wrote:


Well, you "could" plug the present holes and drill new ones. If you
cut plugs that fit well, glue them and sand them down, they
shouldn't show with the white paint finish. G
But, I think the prescribed distance from the edge is more like
1/8" to maybe 3/8".


I have not been following this thread closely, but the above got my
attention.

If the interior surface is actually going to be painted, "plug" the
existing holes with epoxy thickened wity micro-balloons.

Fill the hole about 1/6-1/8 proud, then allow to cure for a couple of
days.

Sand flush, redrill 35mm holes and paint.

Do a decent paint job and you will never see the repair.

If this is a natural finish, all bets are off.

Lew

Max wrote:

"Rich" wrote
Leon wrote:


I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?
It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup
locations except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope
not or I will be building these doors over and that would just
suck!!!! --
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Well, you "could" plug the present holes and drill new ones.
If you cut plugs that fit well, glue them and sand them down,
they shouldn't show with
the white paint finish. G
But, I think the prescribed distance from the edge is more
like 1/8" to maybe 3/8".

Max
The 7/8" I'm talking about is to center of the 35mm bore. Making
it about 1/8" from the edge.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Leon wrote:


"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...
Leon wrote:



I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?
It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup
locations except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope
not or I will be building these doors over and that would just
suck!!!!


I have probably drilled 3 or 4 hundred holes for these style
hinges and in
my particular case the distance from the edge was always 1/8"
Typically the mechanics and or mounting plate of the hinge
determine the amount of over
lay. If you know the model number of that particular Blum
hinge you should be able to find the particulars.

See if this helps but as it looks you may need to get different
mounting plates to suite you over lay needs.


http://wwhardware.com/media/products...107cliptop.pdf

Ok here's the deal, the 7/8" is to the center of the bore making
it about an 1/8 from the edge. I hope this clears up the
misunderstanding.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Nova wrote:

Leon wrote:
"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...

Leon wrote:


I don't recall ever seeing the requirement of 7/8" from the
edge. Is that what the instructions call for?

It was my understanding that 7/8" was the standard cup
locations except with angled doors. I could be wrong, I hope
not or I will be building these doors over and that would just
suck!!!!



I have probably drilled 3 or 4 hundred holes for these style
hinges and in
my particular case the distance from the edge was always 1/8"
Typically the mechanics and or mounting plate of the hinge
determine the amount of over
lay. If you know the model number of that particular Blum
hinge you should be able to find the particulars.

See if this helps but as it looks you may need to get
different mounting plates to suite you over lay needs.


http://wwhardware.com/media/products...107cliptop.pdf



1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge of
door to center of cup.

7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.

Glad someone finally realized what the hell I was saying or
writing. Geeeez isnt 13/16 - 1/16 from being 7/8's These so
called experts really think I bored a hole 7/8's from the edge?
The side of the stile is 2-1/4 in total. How would I do that?
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Rich wrote:

See Picture at alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking 4 doors on
bottom of cabinet, 2
on the outside are inset with a 1/16" reveal the 2 middle doors
need to be overlay by 3/8 to 1/2" to cover the divider in order
to support shelf. I have bored (35mm) holes 7/8 of an inch
from edge and 4" from top and bottom. I'm using 107 degree snap
on blum
hinges but having a problem determining mounting plate. Any
ideas?

Thanks,
Rich
Ok I made a mistake describing my bore for the hinge. I drilled
the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge, leaving about an
1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that stupid besides if the stile
is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8" hole fit if it was from the edge?
Anyway guess I'll figure this one on my own and I'm sure getting
the right mounting plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will
solve my problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Leon wrote:


"Nova" wrote in message
news:x2XGj.3296$Xl2.727@trndny01...
Leon wrote:
"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...

1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge
of door to center of cup.

7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.


Typically the measurement for these type hinges are from the
edge of the door to the edge of the hole, not the center of the
hole.
7/8" was a distance I got a long time ago but that was for face
frame construction and it always worked for me. This is my first
inset and small overlay job. I was told that it works for inset
too. It's all about the mounting plate. All bets are off when
dealing with angled cab doors though. Sorry for the
misunderstanding and how I worded it.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

"Rich" wrote

Glad someone finally realized what the hell I was saying or
writing. Geeeez isnt 13/16 - 1/16 from being 7/8's These so
called experts really think I bored a hole 7/8's from the edge?
The side of the stile is 2-1/4 in total. How would I do that?

Go figure ...could it possibly be because the not "so called expert" who
requested help in the first place did a **** poor job of saying what he
meant?

Naaaa ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Rich" wrote

Ok I made a mistake describing my bore for the hinge. I drilled
the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge, leaving about an
1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that stupid besides if the stile
is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8" hole fit if it was from the edge?
Anyway guess I'll figure this one on my own and I'm sure getting
the right mounting plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will
solve my problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is ALWAYS measured
from the edge of the cup to the edge of the door frame.

There are tables in every package for determining/changing the overlay/inset
using this particular distance "B". Check the Blum site for a pdf for each
type of hinge.

No one who does this more than once attempts to measure from the "center of
the cup" ... to do so is sheer idiocy.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Leon wrote:
"Nova" wrote in message
news:x2XGj.3296$Xl2.727@trndny01...

Leon wrote:

"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...


1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge of door to
center of cup.

7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.



Typically the measurement for these type hinges are from the edge of the
door to the edge of the hole, not the center of the hole.



The cup hole are a lot easier to drill when you have the forstner bit's
center marked. It's hard to line up the rim of the bit.

Ya'oughta try it! ;-)

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Swingman wrote:

"Rich" wrote


Ok I made a mistake describing my bore for the hinge. I drilled
the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge, leaving about an
1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that stupid besides if the stile
is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8" hole fit if it was from the edge?
Anyway guess I'll figure this one on my own and I'm sure getting
the right mounting plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will
solve my problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!


Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is ALWAYS measured
from the edge of the cup to the edge of the door frame.


Always?

Blum gives a chart showing the center point distance as "Distance C" on
page 10 of their literature at:

http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/1046_hin...6_hinges_b.pdf

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Nova wrote:

Leon wrote:
"Nova" wrote in message
news:x2XGj.3296$Xl2.727@trndny01...

Leon wrote:

"Rich" wrote in message
news:Y9WGj.5748$rb6.397@trnddc01...


1/8" recess + (1 3/8" diameter [35 mm] cup /2) = 13/16" edge
of door to center of cup.

7/8" to the center of the cup ain't that far off.



Typically the measurement for these type hinges are from the
edge of the door to the edge of the hole, not the center of
the hole.



The cup hole are a lot easier to drill when you have the
forstner bit's
center marked. It's hard to line up the rim of the bit.

Ya'oughta try it! ;-)


No sheet, anyways it all worked out I installed the doors today
and all I needed was an assortment of 0 to 9mm spacer mounting
brackets. My local hardwood supplier gave me the brackets so no
big deal or loss. I think he was the one that told me 7/8" was
the measurement in the first place. Next time I will pay more
attention to the Blum PDF.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Swingman wrote:

"Rich" wrote

Glad someone finally realized what the hell I was saying or
writing. Geeeez isnt 13/16 - 1/16 from being 7/8's These so
called experts really think I bored a hole 7/8's from the
edge? The side of the stile is 2-1/4 in total. How would I do
that?

Go figure ...could it possibly be because the not "so called
expert" who requested help in the first place did a **** poor
job of saying what he meant?

Naaaa ...

yep, **** poor me. I'm such a pinhead!!!!! But it does stand to
reason that you could not bore a 35mm hole 7/8" from the edge
unless your stile was 3" or more. Oh well sorry for the
confusion.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

"Nova" wrote
Swingman wrote:

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is ALWAYS measured
from the edge of the cup to the edge of the door frame.


Always?

Only if accurate placement is a concern.

Blum gives a chart showing the center point distance as "Distance C" on
page 10 of their literature at:

Nice to know for purposes other than setting up your jigs, fences for
boring. Use the "boring distance" "B" shown on most included charts for
setting up those and you will be glad you did.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/8/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

"Nova" wrote
Swingman wrote:

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is
ALWAYS measured from the edge of the cup to the edge of the
door frame.


Always?

Only if accurate placement is a concern.

Blum gives a chart showing the center point distance as
"Distance C" on page 10 of their literature at:

Nice to know for purposes other than setting up your jigs,
fences for boring. Use the "boring distance" "B" shown on most
included charts for setting up those and you will be glad you
did.

I will use that chart in the future. I did have to use some high
extension mounting plates to get the inset side right. The
overlay side was not a problem at all.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

"Swingman" wrote in
:


"Rich" wrote

Ok I made a mistake describing my bore for the hinge. I
drilled the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge,
leaving about an 1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that
stupid besides if the stile is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8"
hole fit if it was from the edge? Anyway guess I'll figure
this one on my own and I'm sure getting the right mounting
plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will solve my
problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is
ALWAYS measured from the edge of the cup to the edge of the
door frame.

There are tables in every package for determining/changing
the overlay/inset using this particular distance "B". Check
the Blum site for a pdf for each type of hinge.

No one who does this more than once attempts to measure
from the "center of the cup" ... to do so is sheer idiocy.


Not to stir the pot any more, just an FYI. From a Blum package
I have in my hand the instructions for a hinge made for a
cabinet without facing...

"To locate center of hinge cup on back side of door, measure
over from edge of door 22.5mm (7/8"). Here drill a 35mm (1-
3/8") diameter by 13mm (1/2") deep hole."

For a "face frame hinge" the distance changes to 20.5mm
(51/64").

Larry

Larry wrote:

"Swingman" wrote in
:


"Rich" wrote

Ok I made a mistake describing my bore for the hinge. I
drilled the 35mm cup hole 7/8" from center to edge,
leaving about an 1/8"from hole to edge. I'm not that
stupid besides if the stile is 2-1/4" how would a 7/8"
hole fit if it was from the edge? Anyway guess I'll figure
this one on my own and I'm sure getting the right mounting
plate starting from the 0 to the 9mm will solve my
problem. Only one got it right and that was Nova!

Wrong ... The boring distance for a euro style hinge is
ALWAYS measured from the edge of the cup to the edge of the
door frame.

There are tables in every package for determining/changing
the overlay/inset using this particular distance "B". Check
the Blum site for a pdf for each type of hinge.

No one who does this more than once attempts to measure
from the "center of the cup" ... to do so is sheer idiocy.


Not to stir the pot any more, just an FYI. From a Blum package
I have in my hand the instructions for a hinge made for a
cabinet without facing...

"To locate center of hinge cup on back side of door, measure
over from edge of door 22.5mm (7/8"). Here drill a 35mm (1-
3/8") diameter by 13mm (1/2") deep hole."

For a "face frame hinge" the distance changes to 20.5mm
(51/64").

Larry
And I believe you can get mounting plates ranging from 0mm to 9mm
in 3mm increments meaning the 2mm difference can be made up
easily with the mounting plate differences and the built in
adjustments.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

"Larry" wrote


Not to stir the pot any more, just an FYI. From a Blum package
I have in my hand the instructions for a hinge made for a
cabinet without facing...

"To locate center of hinge cup on back side of door, measure
over from edge of door 22.5mm (7/8"). Here drill a 35mm (1-
3/8") diameter by 13mm (1/2") deep hole."

For a "face frame hinge" the distance changes to 20.5mm
(51/64").

Once again ... do this more than once and you will quickly learn to use both
the "Overlay" and "Reveal" charts for the different type euro hinges.

Both charts use the "bore distance", which is defined as "the distance from
the edge of the door to the edge of the hinge cup", and these "bore
distances" are specifically _provided_ to make it easy to fine tune the
overlay and reveal of your doors, be they overlay or inset.

IME, using these charts/tables, based on the "bore distance", will
_inarguably_ give you greater flexibility, accuracy, and ease of
setting/fine tuning these parameters.

But, that said, be my guest should you want to futz around with the "center
of cup" measurement if you indeed want to get these parameters spot on,
every time, and with ease.

Methinks, having done it a time or two, I'll stick with the method where the
guess work is already done for me.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)