I am building a set of cabinets, using Blum 170d, inset hinges.
Purchased from Lee Valley - but can't see why that would matter.

When in the fully closed position, they close past 90 degrees (like
85). Even fully adjusting as far as allowed, they are still just shy
of 90, but very noticeable. It also prevents use of the 5mm offset
indicated by the instructions as the door frame is in full contact
with the cabinet frame at that point. I didn't expect this, given
they were Blum, but it is clearly how they are made. I'm wondering if
there is something simple I am doing wrong.

I have come up with two workarounds. First is to use door stops to
prevent the door closing past 90. I hadn't planned on that but can
modify the cabinet to install them. This also has the downside of the
self close spring left to keep pulling, which I wonder may cause door
warping over time - the spring is surprisingly strong.

2nd is to install washers as shims, which changes the relative
position of the fixing screw and adjustment surfaces. This is the
path I am currently on as it allows me to maintain a gap between the
door and cabinet and keep at 90d when closed.

Is there something I am missing here; e.g., yes, you're supposed to
use a door stop with these hinges, although the instructions say
nothing of it.

thanks

You have to use the 1/8" thick bumpers to prevent the doors from banging
when you close the door, they automatically close.



wrote in message
oups.com...
I am building a set of cabinets, using Blum 170d, inset hinges.
Purchased from Lee Valley - but can't see why that would matter.

When in the fully closed position, they close past 90 degrees (like
85). Even fully adjusting as far as allowed, they are still just shy
of 90, but very noticeable. It also prevents use of the 5mm offset
indicated by the instructions as the door frame is in full contact
with the cabinet frame at that point. I didn't expect this, given
they were Blum, but it is clearly how they are made. I'm wondering if
there is something simple I am doing wrong.

I have come up with two workarounds. First is to use door stops to
prevent the door closing past 90. I hadn't planned on that but can
modify the cabinet to install them. This also has the downside of the
self close spring left to keep pulling, which I wonder may cause door
warping over time - the spring is surprisingly strong.

2nd is to install washers as shims, which changes the relative
position of the fixing screw and adjustment surfaces. This is the
path I am currently on as it allows me to maintain a gap between the
door and cabinet and keep at 90d when closed.

Is there something I am missing here; e.g., yes, you're supposed to
use a door stop with these hinges, although the instructions say
nothing of it.

thanks

I wasn't planning to have them close against anything as they're inset
in the frame. That's partly my question, by design, are they
*required* to have a stop for the door? (then yes I know to use the
bumper).

I have managed to get them to stop flush inside the door without a
stop by using the shims - just seems odd that needs to be done. The
'gap adjust' screw actually swings the door through an arc as opposed
to a perfectly parallel movement.

But if designed to have a stop then I'll add them, was just hoping to
avoid. As I noted, the spring force to pull them shut is surprisingly
strong, was concerned how that would affect the doors over time.

Thanks for your response.

On Feb 18, 2:54 pm, "Leon" wrote:
You have to use the 1/8" thick bumpers to prevent the doors from banging
when you close the door, they automatically close.

wrote in message

I have always used these type of hinges with overlay doors. The hinge
is less than 90 degrees when "at rest" because it is designed to have
the spring tension hold it closed when at 90 degrees. With the overlay
doors I've built, the adjustments let me dial in a perfect fit (and
overcome some other dimensional deficiencies that I seem to frequently
have ;-)