I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

typo: should read, "when I get a set OF "real""

Bay Area Dave wrote:
snip

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers?

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or
"real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled
a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave


Screw drivers work fine. Go to the flea market and get an old saw that
someone ruined by painting a mill scene on. Cut a scraper out of the
steel and go to town. You'll probably have better steel in there than
what's in your putty knife. You can also cut shapes to match any
profile that you need.

Cool. thanks, CP. I'll keep my eye out for a saw going on the cheap.

dave

Caractacus Potts wrote:

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or

"real"

scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled

a

scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave



Screw drivers work fine. Go to the flea market and get an old saw that
someone ruined by painting a mill scene on. Cut a scraper out of the
steel and go to town. You'll probably have better steel in there than
what's in your putty knife. You can also cut shapes to match any
profile that you need.

"Caractacus Potts" wrote in message
igy.com...

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or
"real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled
a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave


Screw drivers work fine. Go to the flea market and get an old saw that
someone ruined by painting a mill scene on. Cut a scraper out of the
steel and go to town. You'll probably have better steel in there than
what's in your putty knife. You can also cut shapes to match any
profile that you need.


Be careful what saw from the flea market you wind up chopping into little
pieces. On another list I subscribe to, a recent "find" by a member
(painted "scene" notwithstanding") turned out to be a very rare handsaw.
Even cleaned up and refurbished it would still be worth a couple thousand
dollars. Ain't no scraper in the world that can make that claim to fame.
Now I'm checking every saw I see looking for the vintage Disstons and
others.

If, OTOH, the blade is rusty and bent and it has a broken bakelite handle or
is otherwise obvious junque, then your solution is perfect.

Jon E

The biggest difference between a "real" scraper and your putty knife scraper
is that a real scraper is probably cheaper than your putty knife and has a
lot longer edge to work with. A regular scraper may hold its hook longer
than your putty knife.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

In article , Bay Area Dave wrote:
I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers?

Definitely. But lay off the screwdrivers. There's much harder steel readily
available: find yourself a machine shop that rebuilds engines, and ask them
for a few used valve lifters. I got four lifters from a Chevy big-block for
two bucks, and I figure that's gonna be a lifetime supply of burnishing rods.
Some cleaning and polishing will be required. And of course there's no handle,
but part of the fun is turning your own. (Do you have a lathe?)

BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
Probably, but who cares?

2. Edge will last longer
Definitely. Scrapers are made from pretty hard steel. You can make your own
from an old handsaw -- that's likely to be harder steel than a putty knife.

3. Both one and two
4. None of the above

5. Longer cutting edge.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Hi,
You probably mean pushrods; hydraulic lifters are too short & thick to make
a decent burnisher, and I think they have only two polished areas, rest is
rough cast. Also would be hard to get all the oil out of them :-)
Casey

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
y.com...
In article , Bay Area
Dave wrote:
I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers?

Definitely. But lay off the screwdrivers. There's much harder steel
readily
available: find yourself a machine shop that rebuilds engines, and ask
them
for a few used valve lifters. I got four lifters from a Chevy big-block
for
two bucks, and I figure that's gonna be a lifetime supply of burnishing
rods.
Some cleaning and polishing will be required. And of course there's no
handle,
but part of the fun is turning your own. (Do you have a lathe?)

BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
Probably, but who cares?

2. Edge will last longer
Definitely. Scrapers are made from pretty hard steel. You can make your
own
from an old handsaw -- that's likely to be harder steel than a putty
knife.

3. Both one and two
4. None of the above

5. Longer cutting edge.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?

In article . net, "*Casey*" wrote:
Hi,
You probably mean pushrods; hydraulic lifters are too short & thick to make
a decent burnisher, and I think they have only two polished areas, rest is
rough cast. Also would be hard to get all the oil out of them :-)
Casey

Who said anything about hydraulic lifters? "Pushrod" is the slang term, "valve
lifter" the correct one.


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
gy.com...
In article , Bay Area
Dave wrote:
I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers?

Definitely. But lay off the screwdrivers. There's much harder steel
readily
available: find yourself a machine shop that rebuilds engines, and ask
them
for a few used valve lifters. I got four lifters from a Chevy big-block
for
two bucks, and I figure that's gonna be a lifetime supply of burnishing
rods.
Some cleaning and polishing will be required. And of course there's no
handle,
but part of the fun is turning your own. (Do you have a lathe?)

BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
Probably, but who cares?

2. Edge will last longer
Definitely. Scrapers are made from pretty hard steel. You can make your
own
from an old handsaw -- that's likely to be harder steel than a putty
knife.

3. Both one and two
4. None of the above

5. Longer cutting edge.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?



--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
y.com...
In article . net,
"*Casey*" wrote:
Hi,
You probably mean pushrods; hydraulic lifters are too short & thick to
make
a decent burnisher, and I think they have only two polished areas, rest
is
rough cast. Also would be hard to get all the oil out of them :-)
Casey

Who said anything about hydraulic lifters? "Pushrod" is the slang term,
"valve
lifter" the correct one.


Having been in and retired from the automotive industry for 20+ years, and
concerning most any Chevy V8, I can honestly say that I have never heard of
a "Push Rod" being the slang term for "lifter" or "valve lifter". Valve
lifters, be they hydraulic, solid or roller, are used along with "Push
Rods". Push rods and lifters are 2 different parts. Anyway, you will
normally find most Chevy engines small or big block, equipped with hydraulic
lifters and hollow push rods.

So, which is it, the 3" x 3/4" lifter, or the 10" x 1/4" push rod? ;~)
Seems the longer push rod would be much easier to use given its much longer
length. The Lifter on the other hand would seem to be more difficult to use
because it is shorter and many have indention's on the sides that would
interrupt the smooth surface.

You and Casey got Know-it-all Miller dead to rights. "Pushrod" has
NEVER been the slang form of lifter. Besides which, OHC engines have NO
pushrods; only lifters.

dave

Leon wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
y.com...

In article . net,

"*Casey*" wrote:

Hi,
You probably mean pushrods; hydraulic lifters are too short & thick to

make

a decent burnisher, and I think they have only two polished areas, rest

is

rough cast. Also would be hard to get all the oil out of them :-)
Casey

Who said anything about hydraulic lifters? "Pushrod" is the slang term,

"valve

lifter" the correct one.



Having been in and retired from the automotive industry for 20+ years, and
concerning most any Chevy V8, I can honestly say that I have never heard of
a "Push Rod" being the slang term for "lifter" or "valve lifter". Valve
lifters, be they hydraulic, solid or roller, are used along with "Push
Rods". Push rods and lifters are 2 different parts. Anyway, you will
normally find most Chevy engines small or big block, equipped with hydraulic
lifters and hollow push rods.

So, which is it, the 3" x 3/4" lifter, or the 10" x 1/4" push rod? ;~)
Seems the longer push rod would be much easier to use given its much longer
length. The Lifter on the other hand would seem to be more difficult to use
because it is shorter and many have indention's on the sides that would
interrupt the smooth surface.

(Doug Miller) wrote in message gy.com...
In article , Bay Area Dave wrote:
I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers?

Definitely. But lay off the screwdrivers. There's much harder steel readily
available: find yourself a machine shop that rebuilds engines, and ask them
for a few used valve lifters. I got four lifters from a Chevy big-block for
.....

Files are hard enough to use as a burnisher. I have used the smooth
part of a rat-tailed file down by the tang. I've heard of other folks
using a belt sander to take the teeth off a file to make a burnisher.
If you try that, do not let the file get too hot. Low alloy high
carbon steel aneals around 325 F. I've also used roll pins which
aren't really hard enough but they work for the same reason that
screwdriver handles work--the stress in the thin section on the
sharp corner of the scraper is much higher than on the rounded
screwdriver shaft.

--

FF

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:36:08 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener.

Damnit Dave ! That was _my_ idea

No, hang on - I put a handle on a $2 Sandvik scraper and used it
instead of a $12 wallpaper stripping knife, now I remember.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Hey, Andy, that gives me an idea. What about rolling an edge on a
taping knife? I've got several, up to a foot wide.

dave

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:36:08 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:


I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener.


Damnit Dave ! That was _my_ idea

No, hang on - I put a handle on a $2 Sandvik scraper and used it
instead of a $12 wallpaper stripping knife, now I remember.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:36:08 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

FWIW, a Sandvik (sp?) scraper is the same price or cheaper than a
_good_ putty knife. They're about $6.

I would imagine a screwdriver shaft would get chewed up in a hurry
burnishing a real scraper.

Barry

Use a crapsman lifetime warranty screwdriver
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote
in message ...
On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:36:08 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

FWIW, a Sandvik (sp?) scraper is the same price or cheaper than a
_good_ putty knife. They're about $6.

I would imagine a screwdriver shaft would get chewed up in a hurry
burnishing a real scraper.

Barry

If that was a good quality putty knife, it will work as well as anything.
You do need a good burnisher, however.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

Is a real burnisher smooth? My screwdriver shanks are pretty rough;
chromed steel, but nontheless ROUGH.

dave

CW wrote:

If that was a good quality putty knife, it will work as well as anything.
You do need a good burnisher, however.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

Burnishers are very smooth and very hard. I made mine out of a 3/8 x 3"
dowel pin. This is not what you might thing of as a dowel. These are used as
alignment pins in machinery. They are as hard as a file and ground to a very
high surface finish. Mount in a handle. Someplace like Grainger or Rutland
tool would have them. I even saw some at Eagle (before they became Lowes).

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
Is a real burnisher smooth? My screwdriver shanks are pretty rough;
chromed steel, but nontheless ROUGH.

dave

CW wrote:

If that was a good quality putty knife, it will work as well as
anything.
You do need a good burnisher, however.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...

I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

Thanks AGAIN, I've got one of those 6" thick Grainger catalogs somewhere
in my office...and a Grainger's not far from the HD PRO I want to check
out tomorrow...

dave

CW wrote:

Burnishers are very smooth and very hard. I made mine out of a 3/8 x 3"
dowel pin. This is not what you might thing of as a dowel. These are used as
alignment pins in machinery. They are as hard as a file and ground to a very
high surface finish. Mount in a handle. Someplace like Grainger or Rutland
tool would have them. I even saw some at Eagle (before they became Lowes).

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...

Is a real burnisher smooth? My screwdriver shanks are pretty rough;
chromed steel, but nontheless ROUGH.

dave

CW wrote:


If that was a good quality putty knife, it will work as well as

anything.

You do need a good burnisher, however.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
gy.com...


I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

Buy several. You'd be surprised how handy they are. Ground to size
(diameter) to within .0002. Great for mesuring.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
Thanks AGAIN, I've got one of those 6" thick Grainger catalogs somewhere
in my office...and a Grainger's not far from the HD PRO I want to check
out tomorrow...

dave

CW wrote:

Burnishers are very smooth and very hard. I made mine out of a 3/8 x 3"
dowel pin. This is not what you might thing of as a dowel. These are
used as
alignment pins in machinery. They are as hard as a file and ground to a
very
high surface finish. Mount in a handle. Someplace like Grainger or
Rutland
tool would have them. I even saw some at Eagle (before they became
Lowes).

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...

Is a real burnisher smooth? My screwdriver shanks are pretty rough;
chromed steel, but nontheless ROUGH.

dave

CW wrote:


If that was a good quality putty knife, it will work as well as

anything.

You do need a good burnisher, however.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
gy.com...


I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or
"real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled
a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave

On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 03:41:27 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:

Is a real burnisher smooth?

Very!

Barry

"Try a piece of broken glass.

I've done that. Yes, it works great.


"Sweet Sawdust" wrote in message
...

"Try a piece of broken glass.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:25:35 -0600, "Sweet Sawdust"
wrote:

"Try a piece of broken glass.

Yes and no.

A broken glass scraper is a great scraper, but it's a blunt edge not a
hook. When it cuts, it makes a Type III chip. A relatively stiff but
weak material collapses into fine dust. It's a good scraper for
removing old finishes, but not for smoothing timber.

A hooked scraper makes Type II chips (when it works right). These are
thin shavings - a fibrous material peels apart and curves upwards in a
smooth chip.

--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Thus the pleasure, even for this confirmed scraper user of many years, of
the Veritas Dial-a-Curl burnisher. Comes with a set of scrapers, now marked
and set for coarsest glue removal to finest burnished surface.

Sure you can do without, but the kids have to have something to get you for
occasions....

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 18 Nov 2003 22:25:35 -0600, "Sweet Sawdust"
wrote:

"Try a piece of broken glass.

Yes and no.

A broken glass scraper is a great scraper, but it's a blunt edge not a
hook. When it cuts, it makes a Type III chip. A relatively stiff but
weak material collapses into fine dust. It's a good scraper for
removing old finishes, but not for smoothing timber.

A hooked scraper makes Type II chips (when it works right). These are
thin shavings - a fibrous material peels apart and curves upwards in a
smooth chip.

Bay Area Dave wrote in message .com...
I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave


BAD going Neander? And MAKING a scraper instead of buying a L-N
Plane? That's a sure sign of the Apocolypse!

-Chris

yeah, Chris, look out! the world is coming to an end!

dave

Chris wrote:

Bay Area Dave wrote in message .com...

I got desperate for a scraper today, so grabbed one of my putty knives
(Now dammit; no laughing!!!!) and proceeded to flatten the edge on a
diamond sharpener. Ran a screwdriver shank over it about half a dozen
times, and damn if I couldn't feel a sharp edge! Ran over to the
glue-up drawer front (yesterday's screw-up, which I salvaged) and
scraped a bit of protruding edge to flush the two pieces up. Damn if
that wasn't almost mystical! You Neanders JUST might have something
there. The grain was just POPPING out at me!

I guess I could skip the $18 burnishing tool when I get a set or "real"
scrapers? BTW what's the difference between a scraper that is labeled a
scraper and a scraper that I "made"?

1. Better cachet
2. Edge will last longer
3. Both one and two
4. None of the above


dave



BAD going Neander? And MAKING a scraper instead of buying a L-N
Plane? That's a sure sign of the Apocolypse!

-Chris