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ss
 
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Default Diamond hones and carbide scraper blades

Are diamond hones in the standard varieties (say 250-1200) appropriate
for touching up a carbide scraper blade? Can anyone offer up comments
upon the success or failure of this method (as opposed to a diamond
wheel)? Thanks in advance.
-ss
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Bjarte Runderheim
 
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Default Diamond hones and carbide scraper blades


"ss" skrev i melding
om...
Are diamond hones in the standard varieties (say 250-1200) appropriate
for touching up a carbide scraper blade? Can anyone offer up comments
upon the success or failure of this method (as opposed to a diamond
wheel)? Thanks in advance.
-ss


I have given my old carbide-tipped sawblades a touch-up with a small diamond
file that cost
the equvalent of 6 - 7 dollars.
Gave them a new life, and saved me maybe 50 dollars, so far.

I also use diamond hones on my chisels made from HSS steel and the so called
cold pressed steel.
Diamonds are good news for all cutting tools, - and their owners.

The best thing about diamond hones is that they do not deform noticably with
use,
they are forever flat.

Bjarte


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Ted Edwards
 
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Default Diamond hones and carbide scraper blades

ss wrote:

Are diamond hones in the standard varieties (say 250-1200) appropriate
for touching up a carbide scraper blade?


I've been using them for touching up carbide inserts on lathe tools.
Works just fine.

Ted


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Mark Rand
 
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Default Diamond hones and carbide scraper blades

On 5 Nov 2003 05:51:56 -0800, (ss) wrote:

Are diamond hones in the standard varieties (say 250-1200) appropriate
for touching up a carbide scraper blade? Can anyone offer up comments
upon the success or failure of this method (as opposed to a diamond
wheel)? Thanks in advance.
-ss


despite what the others say, I would add some reservations.

If your grip is extremely steady or you make a jig to hold a fixed angle, you
may get reasonable results. It is hard not to round off the edge when
sharpening _any_ scraper blade.

I find I get much more control by using a 4" diamond cup wheel on a mandrel in
the lathe with a bit of square bar with a 7 degree slope milled on 2" of the
top face clamped in the tool holder.

The bit of bar is advanced until it is almost touching the cup wheel and the
blade of the scraper is rested on it. The rear of the scraper is held (at the
appropriate distance from the edge) loosely between the finger and thumb of
the right hand, which is braced on the bed of the lathe to give the correct
angle. The handle of the scraper is held higher than the blade so that the
wheel cuts the top edge of the blade. The business end of the scraper is swept
across the wheel to give the desired radiused edge with the correct angle on
it.

I find that one or two smooth sweeps to each side of the blade with the wheel
turning at 500rpm are sufficient to restore the blade from cutting a
chattering washboard pattern, to smoothly slicing cast iron.


HTH
Mark Rand
RTFM
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Harold & Susan Vordos
 
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Default Diamond hones and carbide scraper blades


"Mark Rand" wrote in message
...
snip-----
despite what the others say, I would add some reservations.

If your grip is extremely steady or you make a jig to hold a fixed angle,

you
may get reasonable results. It is hard not to round off the edge when
sharpening _any_ scraper blade.


I agree, but for all cutting tools, not just scraper blades. It's very
easy to round off any cutting edge when honing.
Many a fine tool has been ruined by improper application of a honing stone,
be it aluminum oxide or diamond.

Harold

I find I get much more control by using a 4" diamond cup wheel on a

mandrel in
the lathe with a bit of square bar with a 7 degree slope milled on 2" of

the
top face clamped in the tool holder.

The bit of bar is advanced until it is almost touching the cup wheel and

the
blade of the scraper is rested on it. The rear of the scraper is held (at

the
appropriate distance from the edge) loosely between the finger and thumb

of
the right hand, which is braced on the bed of the lathe to give the

correct
angle. The handle of the scraper is held higher than the blade so that the
wheel cuts the top edge of the blade. The business end of the scraper is

swept
across the wheel to give the desired radiused edge with the correct angle

on
it.

I find that one or two smooth sweeps to each side of the blade with the

wheel
turning at 500rpm are sufficient to restore the blade from cutting a
chattering washboard pattern, to smoothly slicing cast iron.


HTH
Mark Rand
RTFM



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