Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a
shelf. I imagine a reasonably flat surface and a piece of plate glass
are Coming Soon, so I'm looking for ideas that others have found useful.

SWMBO tells me there's a package from Garrett-Wade on the front porch.
Likely there's a thing or two in there that needs sharpening, just a
guess.

I'm planning on starting her coffee table over Thanksgiving. I'm going
to practice the M&T technique described by Tage Frid in the "FWW on
Joinery," for the next couple weeks on my astonishingly large scrap
piles.

Meanwhile . . . to sharpen a rock . . .

Belt sander, one medium stone for a few swipes, then a buffing wheel with
white rouge.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Charles Krug" wrote in message
...
Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a

barely suppressed giggle Arranged? Well, let's see...if I was the OCD
fellow I worked with at GE a few years back, I'd keep them all lined up,
equidistant from all intersecting surfaces, and each other. They would
be shimmed from underneath so that their top surfaces were uniformly
level to a within .1 MM.

Since I'm not afflicted with OCD, the sharpening equipment goes in one
of 12 general purpose drawers, except what won't fit, which then goes
wherever it does fit.

Perhaps you should sign up for your local "let's peer into everyone's
garage" tour. You know, kinda like the Tour of the movie stars homes in
Hollywood?

I REALLY can't imagine what difference it makes as to where someone's
stone is kept!

still chuckling...

dave

Charles Krug wrote:

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a
shelf. I imagine a reasonably flat surface and a piece of plate glass
are Coming Soon, so I'm looking for ideas that others have found useful.

SWMBO tells me there's a package from Garrett-Wade on the front porch.
Likely there's a thing or two in there that needs sharpening, just a
guess.

I'm planning on starting her coffee table over Thanksgiving. I'm going
to practice the M&T technique described by Tage Frid in the "FWW on
Joinery," for the next couple weeks on my astonishingly large scrap
piles.

Meanwhile . . . to sharpen a rock . . .

you left out the most important part of the answer. HOW is it all
arranged? g

dave

Rumpty wrote:

Belt sander, one medium stone for a few swipes, then a buffing wheel with
white rouge.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Charles Krug" wrote in message
...

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:01:49 GMT, Charles Krug
wrote:

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged.

My sharpening station is in pieces under my workbench.

It consists of:

A variable speed electric grinder & Veritas tool rest.
(5) glass strips attached to MDF (220-320-400-600-1200 3M wet/dry
paper) for flattening the backs of things
(2) double sided diamond plates (XC-C-F-XF) for scraper edges
A mill file & Veritas file fence (scrapers)
Veritas burnishing tool (scrapers)
Water stones in water - 800-1200-2000-4000 (chisels, plane irons,
etc...)
Veritas sharpening guide (chisels, plane irons, etc...)
General sharpening guide. (chisels, plane irons, etc...)
Water stone flattening materials
WD-40 or kerosene (Sandpaper lube)
3M77 (sandpaper glue)

As the water stones wear out, I'm moving toward Shapton's stones as
replacements. You could use the sandpaper for actual sharpening, but
I find it a PITA to keep replacing paper. So, I do the backs on the
sandpaper, and the fronts on stones. I don't find the stones flat
enough for backs.

Barry

On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:01:49 GMT, Charles Krug
wrote:

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a
shelf. I imagine a reasonably flat surface and a piece of plate glass
are Coming Soon, so I'm looking for ideas that others have found useful.

SWMBO tells me there's a package from Garrett-Wade on the front porch.
Likely there's a thing or two in there that needs sharpening, just a
guess.

I'm planning on starting her coffee table over Thanksgiving. I'm going
to practice the M&T technique described by Tage Frid in the "FWW on
Joinery," for the next couple weeks on my astonishingly large scrap
piles.

Meanwhile . . . to sharpen a rock . . .

I've a roll-around table with a laminate top.

It has a low-speed six inch grinder on it with one white wheel and one
buffing wheel.

It has a POS Delta Sharpening Station with a wet wheel and a dry
wheel.

There are four Japanese Water Stones, 800, 1200, S-1, G-1.

There are four diamond rasps for carbide.

There is a piece of 3/4" plate glass and a collection of wet/dry
sandpaper, up to grits that are measured in microns.

How do I deal with a nicked chisel?

I turn the belt sander upside down and take the nick out.

Followed by a cursory wipe on the 800 and 1200 grit stones.

(sad but true)







Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson

I have several tools. A Makita waterstone sharpener, bench grinder,
several oil stones of various shapes, diamond dresser, and a few
leather strops. I have three shapening books that show techniques. I
learned that natural light is important, so if your shop has a window,
that's a good spot for your sharpening station. I have a sharpening
cabinet with sliding doors that is mounted on the wall. There I store
the water stones. The grinder has its own cast-iron stand (that I use
mostly for sharpening mower blades, screw drivers, etc.)


On Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:01:49 GMT, Charles Krug
wrote:

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a
shelf. I imagine a reasonably flat surface and a piece of plate glass
are Coming Soon, so I'm looking for ideas that others have found useful.

SWMBO tells me there's a package from Garrett-Wade on the front porch.
Likely there's a thing or two in there that needs sharpening, just a
guess.

I'm planning on starting her coffee table over Thanksgiving. I'm going
to practice the M&T technique described by Tage Frid in the "FWW on
Joinery," for the next couple weeks on my astonishingly large scrap
piles.

Meanwhile . . . to sharpen a rock . . .

The belt sander is under one bench, the stone is under another bench and the
buffing wheel is under a pile of stuff.



--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
you left out the most important part of the answer. HOW is it all
arranged? g

dave

Rumpty wrote:

Belt sander, one medium stone for a few swipes, then a buffing wheel
with
white rouge.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Charles Krug" wrote in message
...

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a

Oh I forgot, the Makita waterstone sharpener is over by the sink.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...
you left out the most important part of the answer. HOW is it all
arranged? g

Charles will no doubt sleep well tonight.

dave

Rumpty wrote:

The belt sander is under one bench, the stone is under another bench and the
buffing wheel is under a pile of stuff.



--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...

you left out the most important part of the answer. HOW is it all
arranged? g

dave

Rumpty wrote:


Belt sander, one medium stone for a few swipes, then a buffing wheel

with

white rouge.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Charles Krug" wrote in message
.. .


Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a

aha, you thought you could withhold some information! Your conscience
is alive and well, though. Charles will be entering that extra tibit
into his diary.

dave

Rumpty wrote:

Oh I forgot, the Makita waterstone sharpener is over by the sink.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
om...

you left out the most important part of the answer. HOW is it all
arranged? g

Charles Krug wrote in
:

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a
shelf. I imagine a reasonably flat surface and a piece of plate glass
are Coming Soon, so I'm looking for ideas that others have found
useful.


Just starting this whole sharpening business, but I choose the sandpaper
method.

I had a pair of 12" x 29" 3/8" glass shelves laying about. At this time
I have only used one of them. I have spray glued 80 grit, 150 grit,
320, 400, 1000, and 1600 wet dry papers to them.

Using a veritas honing jig I make a few thousand swipes to bring a old
dull plane blade back to life. Shave a few hundred arm harms for just
fun and go make some .0017 shavings of some pine in the garage. It does
take a while, and if I have a nick I turn the belt sander upside down,
clamp it to the table saw cabinet and spend a bit of time trying to keep
it straight.

The glass travels with me, at the moment it is on my computer desk where
I can make a quick 200 passes in a minute or two while I getting a blade
back into shape. I always lap my blade on the sandpaper as well.

I have also started flattening my plane soles and will likely get a long
strip of 80 grit for the other piece of glass just for such a purpose.

Alan

Charles Krug wrote in message ...

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged.

I use my old w*rkm*tt as my sharpening station. I added an extra
top of a quarter-sheet of 3/4 plycut in half and laminated to give
extra surface area and stability. On top of that I keep three granite
surface plates with various grits of PSA-backed lapping and
microfinishing film.

The honing plate has 15, 5 and 0.5 micron strips on it. The next
one has 30, 60 and 80 micron. I usually keep a full sheet of coarse
grit on the last plate, and use that for lapping soles or backs of
irons, etc.

I have the Veritas jig and the Eclipse (side clamp) style on the
bench, even though I usually hone freehanded. I also have various
slipstones and dowels wrapped with paper for my carving tools. I
store those in a bin next to the bench along with my extra sheets of
paper.

I have found that having a dedicated station is a huge plus.
Previously I would have to clear my bench, break out the plates,
sharpen and then clean up, store the stuff, etc. before I could get
back to work. Now I simply walk over to the bench, give a plane iron
or chisel a few swipes to touch up the edge and I'm back at it. It's
also a good idea to keep the swarf away from your regular bench.
DAMHIKT.


Chuck Vance

Charles Krug wrote:

Pretty much it. What do you use to sharpen and how do you have it
arranged. I've a couple of Arkansas in boxes that I mostly keep on a

If I had room for it, I just remembered that I have an octagonal glass table
stuff behind some bushes. No use for it, but I'm stupidly sentimental
about one of the first pieces of furniture SWMBO and I bought together.
That would make a kickass sharpening station, because I could put full
sheets of every grit on the thing and leave them there.

Woulda, coulda, shouldda... What I *actually* use is very compact, and
somewhat tedious.

I have 1/3 sheets in 60, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000
grits in some little flimsy plastic puke bucket SWMBO brought home from the
hospital. I keep the sheets stacked in the correct order, and weight them
down when not in use. Add to the kit a piece of 1/3-sheet sized granite
counter backstop, a Veritas angle guide flummy, a weird little clamp that
used to hold something to a desk, a front vise, and a 4" x 36" belt sander.

* pick and angle, and fix the dull item into the Veritas jig

* determine whether it needs a little or a lot of attention

* if it needs a *lot* of attention (nicks or a total angle change), take it
over to the belt sander... I rigged an angle iron table screwed to the
side of the sander so that I can keep the tool in the same angle guide, and
don't have to screw with the angle setting on the sander table itself. I
grind at 100 grit until I get what I want done.

* if I'm starting from scratch, I'll start with 60 grit. If I've done some
power sanding, I'll start with 150 grit. Either way, pick the low grit,
clamp it in, then slide, slide, slide, slide slide.

* repeat for every grit

For some circumstances I will use an additional clamp on the paper to keep
it from wrinkling up. Depends on what I'm sharpening. If it's a plane
iron or a wide chisel, I sometimes just roll it with one hand, and hold
tension on the paper with the other. For narrow chisels that want to pivot
around, I hold with both hands and use two clamps for those grits that
require it.

Leaves something to be desired (like a big hex glass table with full sheets
of every grit) in terms of convenience and speed, but it gets me there
consistently in minimal space.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Scary Sharp. In the drawer, with all 8 grits on one 1x1 foot piece of
glass. I don't run a cabinet shop and I'm not a Neander per se; I
have 2 planes, 4 chisels and 3 scrapers. That does it for me.


Killers by day, lovers by night, drunkards by choice--but Marines, by
God.
-Phil Crow

Warning: Long

A little late getting in on this one, but here goes nonetheless…
I researched the sharpening question for what turned out to be
ridiculously long time. In the process, I formed the opinion that
many people regard their particular sharpening system with a nearly
religious devotion. After thorough consideration I finally committed
myself last month, sending off a flurry of orders to various catalog
outfits. At this point, furniture making and finish carpentry are my
pursuits and my basic needs are to sharpen plane irons, chisels, and a
few carving knives. I don't do woodturning right now, so gouges are
not a consideration.
For cutting the basic bevels, I chose a Baldor 7-in slow-speed
grinder. I decided on this sometime back, after visiting a good
friend at the North Bennett Street School in Boston. I saw several of
these units in use during that visit and my friend heartily endorsed
this particular tool. I replaced the stock gray wheels with 60-80 and
100-120 grit aluminum oxide wheels by Norton. For anyone
contemplating the purchase of a 7-in grinder, go forewarned that the
selection of wheels is somewhat limited compared to the 6 and 8-in
units. For example, I was unable to source white aluminum oxide
wheels and ended up going with tan wheels that have a slightly harder
bond. Between the slow speed and light cuts however, I've had no
problem so far with overheated edges. This same friend made me feel
better about not being able to find the white wheels, when he told me
what went on at his school. He said going in, he was a "wheel snob",
but once there he watched the craftsmen at North Bennett use great
technique to put razor sharp edges on their tools using even the
skankiest of gray wheels.
As the next component in my "system", I went ahead and replaced
the stock Baldor tool rest on my fine wheel with a Veritas adjustable
model. This coupled with their sliding tool holder allows more
precise control of the basic bevel angles. This is one area I
deviated from the "North Bennett" philosophy. My friend advocates
both free-hand grinding and honing. Maybe it's the engineer in me, or
maybe it's Leonard Lee's sharpening bible, but I just can't give up
the idea of using jigs for better control. I just think without jigs,
my edges wouldn't be as straight and all my bevels would creep toward
some median value that may not be ideal for the particular tool. On
the other hand, it's hard to argue with the fantastic work my friend
turns out with his "sloppy" edged tools. He also does this stuff for
a living, so speed is more of a consideration for him. For me though
it's a hobby, so I don't mind taking some time to set up a jig. For
truing the grinding wheels, I got a single point diamond dressing
stick. Mounted at a negative angle in the Veritas sliding tool rest,
this stick makes short work of truing up the wheel.
As far as honing goes, I went with Arkansas stones. I lubricate
these with a 50/50 mixture of kerosene and commercial honing oil. I
chose 8x3 wide bench stones to make it easy to do my largest plane
irons. I obtained one each in the Hard and Hard Black (Surgical)
varieties. I strongly considered going with water stones, but I guess
I'm a traditionalist at heart. Water stones offer greater cutting
speed, but as I mentioned this is a hobby for me, so that's not much
of a consideration. I like the idea of having stones that will
probably outlast me and not having to flatten them as often. Also,
putting oil on steel tools makes more sense to me than water.
Again for honing, the idea of using a guide appealed to me. I
chose the Veritas model along with their nice aluminum angle-setting
fixture. This guide fits all the tools I currently own and is pretty
easy to set up. I really like the cam-action on the roller that
allows you to dial in a 1 or 2-degree micro-bevel.
For initial flattening of plane beds, chisel faces, etc, I went
with a 9x12 (?) granite surface plate from WoodCraft. This just fits
a full sheet of wet-dry sandpaper. Lubricating the paper with that
same mixture of cutting oil and kerosene also serves to stick the
paper to the granite. The plate quickly get tools pretty flat, but in
most cases I've been following up with a little work on the stones for
a finer finish.
Using this "system", I've been able to tune up my tools and put
nice sharp edges on all my blades. I'm sure I still have a ways to go
with my technique before my edges are "scary sharp" but so far so
good. I don't think I'll have any regrets about the methods I chose.
Right now, the grinder and tool-rest are attached to an old scrap
of 2x10. All the rest of the stuff is in a box on the shelf. I just
move everything to the bench to do my sharpening and put it away when
I'm done. The long-term plan is to build a dedicated sharpening bench
to eliminate the setup time. The design I'm thinking of would be
about 2x4 feet on top and only around two feet tall. This would allow
me to pull up a chair and easily get over the work. I plan to mount
the grinder facing one of the 2-foot sides and another high-speed
grinder/buffer combo at the opposite end. Baldor makes a nice combo
unit like this. The second unit would be for coarse work and metal
polishing. This should leave just enough room between the grinders to
lay out the stones and the surface plate. I plan on having one or two
drawers below to help organize and keep clean the various sharpening
tools and supplies.
Before this bench gets built however, I'd better first turn out
some real furniture. My wife has been very patient as I've put
together my shop. It wasn't the most direct path. Off and on over
the last five years I've restored a 1950's era Craftsman 8-in table
saw and 14-in drill press, a 1960's Power-Craft 4-in jointer and 12-in
band saw, and another 1950's K-line 12-in surface planer. Each of
these was a project in itself. I replaced nearly every bearing and
fastener, re-painted most of the castings, and added numerous upgrades
along the way. I've rounded out this unusual cadre of vintage tools,
with an assortment of newer machines and hand tools as well. Through
all this, the shop itself has been the project and now it's time to
turn out some "real" work. I'm now well equipped to take on the
furniture and carpentry projects I've had in mind all these years. I
really think my wife believes this has been one big black hole of time
and money. I hope to change her mind when I surprise her with a
Greene & Greene inspired full-length mirror this Christmas. Thanks to
my newly tuned-up cutting tools, this first "real" furniture project
is now nearing completion.

Richard Johnson
Camano Island, WA