Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and
chisel. I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of
the wood where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise
marking gauges. Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and
measuring ability proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

The mortise gage is recommended. You set the gage to match the width of the
chisel. You set the mortise back from the edge and mark both the tenons and
the mortises with the same setting so they match. I mark the ends of the
mortises with a utility knife.
I have sometimes marked just one edge of the mortise with a marking gage,
mark the ends with a knife and just set the chisel against the one line. It
works because the tenon width is the same as the chisel width. I still use
the mortise gage to mark the tenons.

Woodwork magazine has had good information about this subject. You can
download a pdf copy of the magazine if you care to.

Frank Klausz has a good video on mortise and tenon joinery. He shows using
the chisel, router and the mortiser.

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:mgpxj.33801$T8.31401@trnddc03...

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables.
I have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser.
I will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and
chisel. I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of
the wood where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise
marking gauges. Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand
and measuring ability proven steady enough to draw the lines some other
way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

The mortise gage is recommended. You set the gage to match the width of
the chisel. You set the mortise back from the edge and mark both the
tenons and the mortises with the same setting so they match. I mark the
ends of the mortises with a utility knife.
I have sometimes marked just one edge of the mortise with a marking gage,
mark the ends with a knife and just set the chisel against the one line.
It works because the tenon width is the same as the chisel width. I still
use the mortise gage to mark the tenons.

Woodwork magazine has had good information about this subject. You can
download a pdf copy of the magazine if you care to.

Frank Klausz has a good video on mortise and tenon joinery. He shows using
the chisel, router and the mortiser.
That should be Woodworking Magazine. It is the Spring 2007 issue.

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:mnpxj.6714$xg6.4143@trnddc07...

"Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
news:mgpxj.33801$T8.31401@trnddc03...

"Dick Snyder" wrote in message
. ..
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do
my first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting
tables. I have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated
mortiser. I will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a
drill and chisel. I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate
marking of the wood where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various
mortise marking gauges. Have you used these? Do you need these or is
your hand and measuring ability proven steady enough to draw the lines
some other way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I
am looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

The mortise gage is recommended. You set the gage to match the width of
the chisel. You set the mortise back from the edge and mark both the
tenons and the mortises with the same setting so they match. I mark the
ends of the mortises with a utility knife.
I have sometimes marked just one edge of the mortise with a marking gage,
mark the ends with a knife and just set the chisel against the one line.
It works because the tenon width is the same as the chisel width. I still
use the mortise gage to mark the tenons.

Woodwork magazine has had good information about this subject. You can
download a pdf copy of the magazine if you care to.

Frank Klausz has a good video on mortise and tenon joinery. He shows
using the chisel, router and the mortiser.
That should be Woodworking Magazine. It is the Spring 2007 issue.

Thanks. I will hunt around for the information after work tomorrow. I see
that Frank Klausz has a website. Is that where I should look for the video?

I have seen two kinds of mortise gauges. One is a block of wood (I always
see them made out of Rosewood) and other is a sharp wheel with a stop to set
the distance. What kind do you use?

I am a machine guy myself. I would cut the mortise with a router and a
jig. I like trhe simple one with two fences to sandwich the piece
being mortised. Square up the mortise ends with a chisel. Cut the
tenons on a router table with a little sled and backer for clean cuts.
Cut the tenon wide and sneak up on the fit with a shoulder plane. Nice
reason to buy a nice small hand tool. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20370

As one person mentioned use a knife to cut the edges of the mortise
where you will chiesl it. Also, if you will drill and chisel, then lay
out the mortise with a knife to create clean edges, then dril and then
chisel to the knife cut line.

On Feb 27, 6:34*pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel..
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges..
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

On Feb 27, 9:34 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

The scribed line is what's important. It creates a groove to click
your
chisel into for the last paring cut to make a dead straight line. A 4
or
6" combination square and a knife works just as well, though requires
a steadier hand, no big deal, since if you slip, you're marring the
part
that gets chopped out anyway.

That said, the Stanley 95 butt gage works even better as a mortise
gage. Double beams, both narrow, easy to see what you're doing.


This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

I am a machine guy myself. I would cut the mortise with a router and
a
jig. I like trhe simple one with two fences to sandwich the piece
being mortised.
snip

I'm with you.

Router and a simple jig does a nice job.

I don't bother cleaning up the corners of the mortice, just leave them
round since the strenght of the joint is achieved by the shear loading
of the glue faces.

Knock the corners of the tenons off with a flat ******* file and
assemble.

As suggested, sneak up on the tenon thickness since it has a major
impact on the overall strength of the joint.

Just my $0.02.

Lew

Dick Snyder wrote:

I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

I've used a combo square with a locked blade, steel ruler, LV marking
gauge, and a Titemark to mark mortises.

When cutting them with a machine, router, DP, or mortiser, I find the
combo square or ruler, and a sharp pencil, plenty accurate. With the
machines, you'll have the benefit of fences or stops. If you reference
the same faces for each set of mortises, the opposite ends of the same
tenoned board, off of the fences or stops, it won't matter much if
you're 1/32" or so off center where the tenoned board is inset from the
mortised boards (ex:// typical aprons & legs). Both ends will be
identical, so the interface will remain square.

If the tenoned board will be flush with the mortised board (ex:// many
doors), you need to try a bit harder, but 1/64" can easily be cleaned up
with a smooth plane or sanding block.

For handcut stuff, I like the two round marking (cutting) gauges, as I
like the way the scored lines interface with the chisel tip for the
final paring cuts.

I say have at with some scrap of the same species you'll be working.

BTW, if you're machining the mortises, cut the tenons last. This will
allow you to cut them a hair oversize and trim them to fit. Trimming
can be accomplished with a shoulder plane, rabbet block plane, block
plane and paring chisel, rasp, or even a hard sanding block. As you
trim the tenons, make pencil lines on each face to ensure you're
removing material evenly, and slowly sneak up on the fit. Speed will
come in time. If you accidentally make a tenon too thin, glue a strip
of veneer or scrap block on (mind the grain), recut if necessary, and
trim it.

If you rout the mortises, it will have round ends. I prefer the speed
of knocking the corners off the tenons with a rasp or paring chisel,
others chop out the corner of the mortise. I don't see a difference in
the finished product, but the choice is up to the craftsperson. G

Take your time and practice lots, as this is probably the most important
joint to learn and you'll get lots of payback from the practice.

snip
and the mortiser.
That should be Woodworking Magazine. It is the Spring 2007 issue.

Thanks. I will hunt around for the information after work tomorrow. I see
that Frank Klausz has a website. Is that where I should look for the
video?

I have seen two kinds of mortise gauges. One is a block of wood (I always
see them made out of Rosewood) and other is a sharp wheel with a stop to
set the distance. What kind do you use?

Fine Woodworking has them as well.

I have seen two kinds of mortise gauges. One is a block of wood (I always
see them made out of Rosewood) and other is a sharp wheel with a stop to
set the distance. What kind do you use?


I have both :-)

I prefer the wheel for most marking, but use the mortise gage when marking
m&t joints.
Actually I have two of each. You can set one for one measurement and the
other for another measurement and not lose a set-up in case of a screw-up in
cutting or chopping.

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 21:34:14 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:

Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder



I have a hollow chisel mortiser but still prefer to use a router.
Simple jig to set the mortise location on your piece. Flat board with
a fence added and a couple of limit stops (can be adjustable) to set
the feed length of the router. Work piece clamped in the jig, and
clamped to the table. Usually takes me about a half hour to make a
jig, and I tend to repeat the leg size so use them over. I have
three thicknesses of legs covered.

Frank

On Feb 27, 6:34*pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
I just rough locate with broad pencil then rout a sample and calibrate
from that. The first mortice is never on the money so why waste time
marking?
I know the dimensionality of the tenon. I measure my first sample
mortice and calculate how much wider/narrower, longer/shorter,
centerline shift etc is necessary. Make the changes with the edge
guides and stops. The second sample, minutes later, is usually
correct. Much less time calibrating than going nutz with the layout.
Jig: http://patwarner.com/router_morticing.html
************************************************** *****************




will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel..
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges..
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

This group has invariably been helpful to me when I ask questions so I am
looking forward to some help before this next step in improving my
woodworking skills.

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Dick Snyder wrote:

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.

If using power tools the marking is less critical because you have
fixed-size jigs/templates/bits/fences. For hand-cut (including
drill/chisel techniques) the marking is more important because it
provides a registration point for the chisel.

For the ideal joint tightness you want the joint to go together dry by
hand without requiring a hammer, but you should be able to pick it up by
the tenon piece and not have the mortise piece fall off.

Chris

I would study on mortise making using a router and many
different jigs that are around.

This eliminates one challenge of what is the size
of the mortise.

It will always be the very same for every single
mortise and you just have to cut your tenons to fit.

I think every single magazine has come up with at
least one decent mortising jig for routers.

Cut your tenons using a table saw jig or use
your router table, which ever you are most
comfortable with.

You notice I didn't mention a marking gauge ???

You don't need a gauge for accurate mortise
work in my opinion.




Dick Snyder wrote:
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

On Feb 28, 2:24*pm, Pat Barber wrote:
I would study on mortise making using a router and many
different jigs that are around.

This eliminates one challenge of what is the size
of the mortise.

It will always be the very same for every single
mortise and you just have to cut your tenons to fit.

I think every single magazine has come up with at
least one decent mortising jig for routers.

Cut your tenons using a table saw jig or use
your router table, which ever you are most
comfortable with.

You notice I didn't mention a marking gauge ???

You don't need a gauge for accurate mortise
work in my opinion.



Dick Snyder wrote:
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

Like a Domino or Multi-router might also use? G

Yeah baby, the Domino. You win the proize. Great solution if you can
afford it. If you have a Multi-Router well then you can go floating or
just as easily normal M&T.

On Feb 28, 11:43*am, depictureboy wrote:
On Feb 28, 2:24*pm, Pat Barber wrote:





I would study on mortise making using a router and many
different jigs that are around.

This eliminates one challenge of what is the size
of the mortise.

It will always be the very same for every single
mortise and you just have to cut your tenons to fit.

I think every single magazine has come up with at
least one decent mortising jig for routers.

Cut your tenons using a table saw jig or use
your router table, which ever you are most
comfortable with.

You notice I didn't mention a marking gauge ???

You don't need a gauge for accurate mortise
work in my opinion.

Dick Snyder wrote:
Hi group,

I have been doing woodworking for a few years now but I am about to do my
first serious mortise and tenon joints on a set of three nesting tables. I
have watched Norm do these a lot but I don't have a dedicated mortiser.. I
will use either a router and jig to cut the mortises or a drill and chisel.
I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the wood
where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking gauges.
Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and measuring ability
proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Feb 28, 3:07*pm, B A R R Y wrote:
depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

Like a Domino or Multi-router might also use? *G

Sounds like you are trying to make me a butt of some inside joke here.
But my question was valid.

On Feb 28, 7:45*pm, depictureboy wrote:
On Feb 28, 3:07*pm, B A R R Y wrote:

depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

Like a Domino or Multi-router might also use? *G

Sounds like you are trying to make me a butt of some inside joke here.
But my question was valid.

For those who may be interested this is the book I think I read it in.
Its by Andy Rae
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Illus...46257&sr= 8-1

Thanks to all of you for your great help. I will clearly be using up a lot
of that scrap stock in my basement while I practice with both a router jig
and a drill/chisel combination.

This group is the best!

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
. net...
Dick Snyder wrote:

I am wondering about your experience in doing accurate marking of the
wood where the mortise is to be cut. I have seen various mortise marking
gauges. Have you used these? Do you need these or is your hand and
measuring ability proven steady enough to draw the lines some other way?

I've used a combo square with a locked blade, steel ruler, LV marking
gauge, and a Titemark to mark mortises.


I use the Lee Valley saddle square on the end marks.

If you absolutely, positively layout mortise and tenon joints
the Glen-Drake Tite-Mark (TM) though not inexpensive (as
opposed to "cheap" which implies "crappy tool") is THE handiest
M&T marking gauge out there, including Lee Valley's less
expensive clone. Get a pair of the Mortise "wheels" when you
buy or order it - they'll save you all kinds of grief.

One of the MANY uses for this tool is laying out M&T joints with
those "mortise wheels. Set them anywhere on the rod - the
distance between them being the width of the chisel you will
be using - flat faces in for mortises, flat faces out for tenons
and tighten their set screws to keep them there. Then slide
the rod out from or in towards the big brass "fence" to the
distance you want your mortise to be from your reference
face. Just get sort of close then "micro adjust" by locking
the rear locking nob? then turning the gnurled thing to move
the fence "in" or "out" - very precisely. When you've got
EXACTLY where you want the "mortise" wheels tighten the
front nob?.

Keep one of you're scribed with the TiteMark mortise layouts
handy. Remove the "mortise" wheels which were Face To Face
and turn them around facing away from you. Don't set the
set screw yet. Set the "fence" on the reference face of your
mortise and move the "mortise" wheels so the "drop into the
scribed lines for the mortise - then tighten the set screws.

Really nice to be able to use the scribed lines from the mortise
to set the wheels for the tenons.

The TiteMark with a pair of the "mortise" wheels lets you
keep their spacing while still being able to move the fence
- for say an apron set back from the leg's reference face.
Real handy being able to do that.

This thing has so many other uses - scribing the bottom of the
sockets for dovetails and finger joints, rabbets etc. AND
can be used as a depth gauge/blade or router depth of cut
"settings copier", . . .

This is one of those extremely well thought out tools I really
appreciate - along with the Festool DOMINO, the AKEDA
dovetail jig and the JoinTech Cabinet Maker System (router
fence plus precision fence positioner) and the Veritas
Twin Screw vise. Start with a blank sheet of paper, think
a great deal about what the tool is supposed to do, then
think of additional things it could do - THEN design the tool
and make it to do all you designed it to do AND be easy and
intuitive to use. Oh, and make sure the tool actually
meets or exceeds your expectations.

An indication of how well thought out the TiteMark is are
the nobs on the "fence" part and the other sliding brass
thing. They're kind of big - which is good - for two reasons
1. you can tighten and loosen them with one hand
2. they keep the damned tool from rolling of the phreakin'
bench, chipping the carbide wheel then landing under
something heavy, next to the things that bites, stings,
stinks or all three.

charlie b

I don't think you were being derided. The Domino is a great new tool
from Festool that is like a biscuit joiner but cuts mortises for
floating tennons and they sell you the tennons pre-made just like you
buy biscuits. Thing is it is like $500 or more, can't recall exactly.
The Multi-router is (to some of use) the holy grail of router tools.
It holds a router and has a movable part holding table and a template
following system for cutting mortises, tennons, dovetails, etc. A few
thousand and about $3k pnce you get all setup with all the
accesories.

On Feb 28, 4:45*pm, depictureboy wrote:
On Feb 28, 3:07*pm, B A R R Y wrote:

depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

Like a Domino or Multi-router might also use? *G

Sounds like you are trying to make me a butt of some inside joke here.
But my question was valid.

On Feb 28, 11:53*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I don't think you were being derided. The Domino is a great new tool
from Festool that is like a biscuit joiner but cuts mortises for
floating tennons and they sell you the tennons pre-made just like you
buy biscuits. Thing is it is like $500 or more, can't recall exactly.
The Multi-router is (to some of use) the holy grail of router tools.
It holds a router and has a movable part holding table and a template
following system for cutting mortises, tennons, dovetails, etc. A few
thousand and about $3k pnce you get all setup with all the
accesories.

On Feb 28, 4:45*pm, depictureboy wrote:



On Feb 28, 3:07*pm, B A R R Y wrote:

depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

Like a Domino or Multi-router might also use? *G

Sounds like you are trying to make me a butt of some inside joke here.
But my question was valid.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the heads up...I actually linked to the wrong book above.
this is the book that has all the free-tenon advice in it
Cabinets and Built-Ins: A Practical Guide to Building Professional
Quality Cabinetry by Paul Levine
It was a very nice book and very helpful.

http://www.amazon.com/Cabinets-Built...4293097&sr=1-2

I was able to find it at my local library.

The very simple answer is yes... many folks "only" do
floating tenons.

There have been hundreds of stories in the rags on
"how to do it" and it is a very simple way to start
doing M&T joinery.

With a decent router jig and some loose tenons made
from scrap, you are in the m&t business.

Here is one of the "many" mortising jigs...

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/...mortising-jig/

depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

Another prize!!!

That's the one. That is the simple jig I like for mortising. I looked
through two pages of googled search and saw lots o' fangled
contraptions for T and M&T but this is the one I wanted to share. Easy
to make, easy to use. Just create some sort of stops to control the
length clammped right to the piece or the table and you have a good,
easy, accurate, consistent and safe steup.

On Feb 29, 7:40*am, Pat Barber wrote:
The very simple answer is yes... many folks "only" do
floating tenons.

There have been hundreds of stories in the rags on
"how to do it" and it is a very simple way to start
doing M&T joinery.

With a decent router jig and some loose tenons made
from scrap, you are in the m&t business.

Here is one of the "many" mortising jigs...

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/...mortising-jig/



depictureboy wrote:
Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I take Shopnotes and had completely forgotten about this article. This jig
looks pretty simple to make. Have you used this jig yourself?

"Pat Barber" wrote in message
...
The very simple answer is yes... many folks "only" do
floating tenons.

There have been hundreds of stories in the rags on
"how to do it" and it is a very simple way to start
doing M&T joinery.

With a decent router jig and some loose tenons made
from scrap, you are in the m&t business.

Here is one of the "many" mortising jigs...

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/090/...mortising-jig/

depictureboy wrote:

Does anyone use floating tenons? I saw those in a book on
cabinetmaking and that certainly seems the way to go best for the
machine guys here. Just mortise both pieces then cut the tenons from
pre-rounded (1/4" roundover I think) stock cut to size.

On Feb 27, 9:34 pm, "Dick Snyder"
wrote:
Hi group,

http://www.ptreeusa.com/woodworking_videos.htm

Making Mortise-and-Tenon Joints (DVD)

with Frank Klausz

Produce clean and quick joints, by hand or machine
Woodworkers rely on the versatile mortise-and-tenon joint for making
sturdy frames, panels, stools, tables and stands. Frank Klausz shows
you how to make the joint cleanly and quickly, using hand tools or
basic woodshop machines.



You will learn about:

* laying out for handwork
* chiseling the mortises
* sawing the tenons
* laying out for router and handsaw
* routing the mortises
* bandsawing the tenons
* laying out for mortiser and table saw
* making a hollow-chisel mortiser
* working tenons on the table saw


No. Description

Price

Quantity
3281
Making Mortise-and-Tenon Joints
with Frank Klausz (DVD)
$19.99
$15.99

TIA.

Dick Snyder

Hey Charlie,

What do you think about the Domino system?



Ooops - I'ma go fishing somewheres else.

Mike
Who is sad he doesn't have as many drive-bys as Charlieb

This is one of those extremely well thought out tools I really
appreciate

Yes... but I also built a slightly more
complicated version they did a few years
ago.

The simple version is great for longer pieces
like garden benches,etc,etc.


Dick Snyder wrote:
I take Shopnotes and had completely forgotten about this article. This jig
looks pretty simple to make. Have you used this jig yourself?