And to me, a router for "edge" jointing seems very logical to use.
Methinks even cleaner cuts are possible than with a large, much slower
jointer blade. I don't know how many RPMs the jointer runs at, but I'd
hazard a guess that it can't safely run as fast as a 1/2" straight bit in a
router. Hence, straighter cleaner edges.



--
The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
So I installed it on Linux...
"Marc" wrote in message
igy.com...
It's a good point and one I have considered a lot. Probably the reason I
am
asking a group so I can separate and distinguish my wants from my needs.
If
all I have is a shop with a great table saw, I'm not going to be able to
do
much. There will be more funds in the near future but what will I do
until
then? I have some nice hand tools, Japanese chisels, LN 4 1/2 plane, and
a
few other items. but I am using a router table for a jointer which is not
very suitable. I need some better squares and clamps etc. not to mention
WOOD, it's not cheap.

On the other hand maybe it is better to get this one big item
out-of-the-way
so I never have to consider it again, and slowly build a shop of only
quality items over time.

I've heard of people subsituting a quality band-saw and using it for a
table-saw duty, that is what laguana seems to suggest on their band saw
video. But I don't see how that could work, small table, no dado, table
tilts instead of blade, lateral limitation by yoke of band saw, I just
don't
see that working out.

It's a tough question, and it makes me realize how expensive this hobby
is.

Thanks for your input.

Marc

"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com" mbaglioNOSPAM wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:26:40 GMT, "Marc"
wrote:

.....


5, and finally.) It will, (or should, anyway) cost you at least
another several hundred dollars for the quality support tools you will
need to reach the precision you say you demand. Squares, guages,
markers, chisels, planes, etc., aren't cheap. Matter o' fact they're
darned pricey. Are they in your budget? Can't do quality precision
work without them. What about Jointers, Planers, etc.?
Got Money? tm


......

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 04:33:01 +0000, David Binkowski wrote:


Can someone explain to me the fascination with dado blades on table saws?
I use a router for all dados (it SEEMS easier). All woodworkers have at
least one router, so why do people use table saws for dados ?

1) stacked dado can be set to exact width required (up to 13/16") and done
in one pass.

2) full depth can be done in one pass.

3) faster setup against fence or on sled.

4) chips/dust can be somewhat more easily controlled.

5) tablesaws don't suffer from ARHA. (DAMHIKT)

-Doug

BTW, I use my stacked dado on my RAS as my TS is a weenie tabletop model
with a short arbor.

I think the problem may be that some people see the BS simply as
an overgrown scroll saw. At the wood shows I've gone to, both at
the same place, the demos were all novelties done with the tiniest
blades possible, showing tight, mazelike curves being cut in a block
of wood. Not good advertizing for a BS. They should have shown
resawing an 11" hard maple log into boards or something. The
Laguna demos were a bit more inspirational, showing basic jointing
on the BS, starting with an irregular block of wood, creating the
first flat side, then moving on to joint the thing into a dimensional
piece of wood. Since the table/blade/fence are all set at 90 degree
and 0 degree angles to one another, its not hard to imagine how
easy that is to do.

--
The software said it ran under Windows 98/NT/2000, or better.
So I installed it on Linux...
"Michael Daly" wrote in message
.cable.rogers.com...
On 13-Nov-2003, Michael Baglio wrote:

My $0.02, based on observation as a newbie, rather than experience.

An awful lot of this world does just fine with a really good bandsaw
as their weapon of choice.

While a beginner without a table saw, I often think that folks
overemphasize
the TS. Sorta like the "if all you have is a hammer..." approach to life.
Even router tables are made to look more like a TS than a router. Why
should a RT fence be parallel to the edge of the table? The router is
not a linear device like a TS - the fence can go at _any_ angle!

Consider that with the exception of dadoing,

This could be done with a router. And a decent router is comparable in
cost to a decent dado blade kit for a TS.

I got a bandsaw, based on my needs (mostly boatbuilding based). I can
do most things that I can think of with this except cut really wide pieces
of wood (like sheets of plywood/MDf/etc). Crosscuts I do with a hand
saw.

I also was infuenced by the FWW 1st annual Tools&Shops issue, where Gary
Rogowski suggests that your first power tool should be a BS (unless your
needs are cutting wide chunks of wood).

It seems to me that a lot of folks could make good use of a BS and RT to
do more than a TS could. I can cut thru 6" of wood more easily than with
a TS - that would require me to cut, flip over and cut again. The BS is
a substitute for a scroll saw, as long as curves aren't too tight. The
router will allow plunge cut dadoes and grooves rather than the continuous
versions that most TS users get. Much neater than having a groove
sticking out the end of a hunk of wood.

If I needed to cut plywood/MDF/etc (in the short term given my _very_
limited budget), I'd probably go for a decent straightedge and circ
saw and use the BS for everything once the big sheets are down to size.
But that would suit my needs, possibly not many others'.

Anyway, if you need a TS, it's an excellent tool. But I wonder if some
folks focus on the TS too much.

Mike

David Binkowski wrote:

Can someone explain to me the fascination with dado blades on table
saws? I use a router for all dados (it SEEMS easier). All
woodworkers have at least one router, so why do people use table saws
for dados ?

I thought exactly the same thing. But when building a bookcase for my
teenage daughter I needed to make a bunch of 3/4" dados. The ones on the
ends of the up and down parts would be no problem on my router table, but
the ones in the middle would have required demounting my DW 621 from the
router table. So I took the time to set up my dado in the table saw.

Wow! It cut much faster than the router! I didn't have to make two or
three passes to get the cuts as deep as desired, one pass through the dado
on my dado-enabled Grizzly contractor saw worked peachy keen. It was no
more a problem to cut the dados in the middle of the 4' board than the ends!

The fantasy shop of my dreams has (at least g) three table saws. My
current Grizzly contractor saw is the permanent "just a shade under 3/4"
dado" saw for cutting dados for plywood shelves. A fantasy right-tilt
cabinet saw has a sliding table attachment. A fantasy left-tilt cabinet saw
with a long fence lets me rip a 4x8' sheet anywhere I durn well please.

Back in the real world of my single car garage shop and my single Griz saw,
for certain cuts I take the time to mount the dado.

-- Mark

On 13-Nov-2003, "JackD" wrote:

I find it quite useful for ripping wood precisely. The blade doesn't wander
like it would on a bandsaw.

I'll take your word on this. It seems that many get good results
with a good TS. However, the few bits I've seen done by folks I know
are usually no better (often worse) than my BS. However, they are not
woodworkers with considerable talent and/or use poor quality or poorly
adjusted stuff. It has given me the preconceived notion that a TS makes
a really rough cut.

Ripping at an angle can be hairy on a bandsaw, but on a TS it is no problem
because the work stays flat and the blade tilts.

I've ripped a big chunk of quarter sawn oak at an angle and it was very hairy
only because I couldn't use the fence. I was cutting to follow the grain
and had to follow the curve of the trunk just below the bark.

If cutting with one side straight, it's not so bad, since I rest it against
the fence. If long, supporting the free end on edge is a PITA. I could
see a TS being better.

I'm not trying to rag the TS, just say that there seems to be such a strong
emphasis on the tool at the expense of what might be a better tool for
some tasks.

Example - I'm fixing up an old oak dresser and instead of M&T joints at the
back, they put a long groove down the vertical bits (stile?) and stuck tenons
on the horizontal bits. The tenons were glued into the groove and the glue is
now letting go - so gravity takes over. This is an example to me of someone
choosing a TS over a morticer or router and creating a sloppy result.

Mike

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:30:58 -0700, Charles Jones
wrote:

In article . com,
says...
I read a comparison and general rated very high, but I can't find much
information on general. Does the manufacture have a website?

http://www.general.ca/

CharlesJ


Anybody have any comments about General's T-Square fence?

Thanks,
Barry

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 04:10:14 GMT, "David Binkowski"
wrote:

You know, I've debated this issue myself. And I'm almost to the conclusion
that I can do any heavy ripping on my bandsaw anyway. Would I really need
a 3 HP+ motor on a table saw since I'd mostly be using it for finish quality
cuts
and joints ? My 1.5 HP Delta would take care of any rips up to 6" thick,
with
no risk of burning. All I'd have to do is plane it afterwards, and some
have to
do that to wood cut on their table saws anyway.

I still love the idea of buying myself a nice cabinet, but I'm thinking as
far as a
table saw goes, a beefy contractor (+two iron wings) would give me enough
stability and power to do all I will need. I'm not terribly satisfied with
the
state of table saws and how they work right now either. Its
counterintuitive
to think I can actually use it without being injured or at least frightened
to the
point of soiling myself.

A bandsaw is an amazing versatile machine. If I were limited on
space, a bandsaw would be my choice. But, nothing rips better than a
tablesaw. Sure you can get injured, but I know a guy that lost his
finger on a bandsaw. Table saws have not changed much in the last 20
years, maybe people are less safety-minded. I feel less safe in a
vehicle, than when using my table saw.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 04:33:01 GMT, "David Binkowski"
wrote:


Can someone explain to me the fascination with dado blades on table saws?
I use a router for all dados (it SEEMS easier). All woodworkers have at
least one router, so why do people use table saws for dados ?


I've done it both ways, and I found the tablesaw to be more precise
and faster setup.

"David Binkowski" wrote in message
om...
|
| I think the problem may be that some people see the BS
| simply as an overgrown scroll saw.

That's the pretext under which I bought mine. It wasn't until I'd owned it
for a year or so that I figured out you could use the darned thing to cut in
a straight line. It was another three years before I got adept enough at
using all the guides and tuning all the adjustments to even start to use the
thing in the way it's supposed to be used. And now that I feel more
comfortable with it, I want a better one. Had I known what I'd be using it
for, I'd have sprung for a better model.

| They should have shown resawing an 11" hard maple log into
| boards or something.

I saw a guy cutting his own veneer with his bandsaw. He was just happily
shaving off 1/16" thicknesses of birdseye maple.

--Jay

Really, I'm surprised. Is that just a strong brand preference or is the
powermatic contractor saw just plain better?

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
I'd rather have a Powermatic contractor tablesaw than a Craftsman
cabinet saw.

The answer to both of your questions is easy: "no" and "no".

However, my question, I am still having difficulty answering.

"Chris Merrill" wrote in message
.com...
Marc wrote:
It boils down to the
question: will I be able to tell the difference between a contractor or
cabinet saw at a hobbyist level of use?

IMO, it boils down to different questions:
Are you good enough to work around the weakness of the tool? Or will
you get angry and blame the tool for your failures?

Bay Area Dave wrote:
Never tell SWMBO that you can build quality stuff with "middle of the
road" tools.

Any SWMBO with kids will readily tell you she did.

Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.

wrote:
Never tell SWMBO that you can build quality stuff with "middle of the
road" tools.


Any SWMBO with kids will readily tell you she did.



OOohhhhhh

That's Cruel!

Funny too.



--

Mark

N.E. Ohio


Never argue with a fool, a bystander can't tell you apart. (S. Clemens,
A.K.A. Mark Twain)

When in doubt hit the throttle. It may not help but it sure ends the
suspense. (Gaz, r.moto)

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
.cable.rogers.com...
On 13-Nov-2003, "JackD" wrote:

I find it quite useful for ripping wood precisely. The blade doesn't
wander
like it would on a bandsaw.

I'll take your word on this. It seems that many get good results
with a good TS. However, the few bits I've seen done by folks I know
are usually no better (often worse) than my BS. However, they are not
woodworkers with considerable talent and/or use poor quality or poorly
adjusted stuff. It has given me the preconceived notion that a TS makes
a really rough cut.

Smooth as glass actually. My experience is the opposite of yours.

Ripping at an angle can be hairy on a bandsaw, but on a TS it is no
problem
because the work stays flat and the blade tilts.

I've ripped a big chunk of quarter sawn oak at an angle and it was very
hairy
only because I couldn't use the fence. I was cutting to follow the grain
and had to follow the curve of the trunk just below the bark.

I'm not saying it is not possible, but big pieces on a tilted table follow
the laws of gravity.
A table saw will never be able to follow the curve of the trunk (or any
curve) though. That is why I'd like to have a bandsaw.

Example - I'm fixing up an old oak dresser and instead of M&T joints at
the
back, they put a long groove down the vertical bits (stile?) and stuck
tenons
on the horizontal bits. The tenons were glued into the groove and the
glue is
now letting go - so gravity takes over. This is an example to me of
someone
choosing a TS over a morticer or router and creating a sloppy result.

Sounds like poor design rather than a tool limitation. I cut real tenons on
the table saw. It works great. A band saw would work just as well. Neither
one of them does very well chopping mortises however...

-Jack

In article ,
David Binkowski wrote:
And to me, a router for "edge" jointing seems very logical to use.
Methinks even cleaner cuts are possible than with a large, much slower
jointer blade. I don't know how many RPMs the jointer runs at, but I'd
hazard a guess that it can't safely run as fast as a 1/2" straight bit in a
router. Hence, straighter cleaner edges.


...rest snipped...

Actually if my arithmetic is OK the speed at the tip of the cutting
edge of a router bit and a jointer blade are in the same ballpark.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

In article , wrote:


Bay Area Dave wrote:
Never tell SWMBO that you can build quality stuff with "middle of the
road" tools.

Any SWMBO with kids will readily tell you she did.

Bill Ranck
Blacksburg, Va.

Q. Why did the chicken go to the middle of the road?

A. Because she wanted to lay it on the line.

In article . com,
Marc wrote:
Ok, I am know various permutations of this question have been asked before
(I've done google searchs and read reviews), but I still need some more
specific and up-to-date input.

I am building a wood working shop,. Over the course of a year or so I have
read books on woodworking, watched NYW on TV, and I have built chess boards,
boxes, and a workbench, mostly simple stuff with relatively cheap tools. I
have decided I like the hobby and want to invest in some quality tools.
Currently I have a $200 portable craftsman table saw. Usually in a hobby I
go as cheap as possible until I decide if I like it or not, then I try to go
quality so I don't re-buy. So I am going to buy either a cabinet saw
(unisaw, powermatic, grizzly, shop fox, etc.) or a contractor saw. If I go
with a good contractor saw like deltaX 36-507x I'll have plenty of money
for other things but I don't want to do that if I am putting myself in a
situation where I need to upgrade in the future. It boils down to the
question: will I be able to tell the difference between a contractor or
cabinet saw at a hobbyist level of use? Are cabinet saws mostly just for
production type work in a cabinet shop or are they more precise and better
suited for a hobbyist who wants to only make a few fine pieces? Is a
grizzly cabinet saw better buy than a deltaX contractor saw (they cost the
same)? Right now I am leaning toward just putting about $2000 into a good
cabinet saw, dado set, portable base, and tenon jig. I have the room and a
220 outlet. If you think there is a better way to go please give me your
advice before I make an expensive mistake. I plan to use the saw for a
lifetime and make everything from furniture to a doghouse with it, but it
will only be in my spare time and weekends. I don't know if it makes a
difference but I am very big on precision, I like things to fit perfect.
Any advice would be appreciated.



It is almost *never* a "mistake" to 'over buy' on tooling. If you buy
a "better grade than you can make use of" you'll never be dissatisfied
with the _tool_.

There are really only about two _major_ differences between a good
contractor saw, and a good cabinet saw. (There -is- a third one -- having
to do with the efficiency of a dust-collector hook-up; cabinet saws *are*
notably better at containing sawdust, but that is rarely a 'deal breaker'
consideration.)

Difference #1: "Power." Contractor saws tend to max out at around 2HP,
while cabinet saws are often 3HP, or sometimes 5HP. The question to
consider is "do you _need_ that extra horsepower?" Which depends utterly
on what you'll be doing -- you can cut -anything- on a low-power saw, if
you're willing to go 'slow enough'. If you're "only rarely" dealing with
softwood stock thicker than nominal 2", or hardwoods over 1" to maybe 1-1/2",
the 'extra power' available with the bigger HP saw is *not* likely to get
called on. OTOH, if you -do- plan to spend significant amounts of time
working 'thick' stock, the bigger motor *will* be helpful.


Difference #2: trunnion 'architecture'. Without going into the 'gory details',
let it suffice to say that this affects how well the saw 'holds' its set-up,
and the ease with which one can tune it to the optimal settings. Again,
cabinet saws are ahead on this one, But, on _any_ quality saw that doesn't
get banged around, this is something you do "once in a blue moon" -- if that
often. In 'normal', hobbiest, use, it will usually be many, *many* years
before the blade set-up needs adjusting a 2nd time.


Once you've got them set up, and 'tuned', there's little "functional"
difference between the two types, *UNLESS* you're cutting big hard lumber.

One last *possible* consideration -- I've never seen a contractor saw
with a blade bigger than 10". Cabinet saws _are_ available with bigger
blades (although at a considerable cost increment); my H.S. shop had two
cabinet saws -- a 'normal' 10" one, and an "industrial size" monster, which
had a 16" blade.

Mark Jerde wrote:

The fantasy shop of my dreams has (at least g) three table saws. My

Mine too. Or at least two. I don't even *have* a dado set yet, but I sure
could use one. I'm all the time doing multi-pass, clean-up-with-a-chisel
type stuff. One thing keeping me from buying a dado set (other than money)
is the thought that while my current method is tedious, at least I don't
have to screw with changing the blade. So... I'd like to have a dedicated
dado saw.

You can do so much with a table saw in that fashion. Even cut tenons
without bothering to build a tenoning jig. I think a dado set would be
very damn handy. Surely a lot easier than doing any of these jobs with a
router. Especially with *my* anemic, inaccurate, screaming piece of crap.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Yes, I put one on my 36-650 contractor saw... the 52" model.
I LOVE it... accurate repeatable cuts, and well built.
Highly recommended.

No affiliation, just a happy customer.

Dave.

B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:
On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:30:58 -0700, Charles Jones
wrote:


In article . com,
says...

I read a comparison and general rated very high, but I can't find much
information on general. Does the manufacture have a website?

http://www.general.ca/

CharlesJ



Anybody have any comments about General's T-Square fence?

Thanks,
Barry

I was building some vertical storage bins for framing fillet
recently and had to cut 1/4" dados in FULL sheets of MDF for
the backing... 3" apart. I cut 4 sheets in an hour and a
half. Could you do that with a router as quickly??? ;-)
Oh, yah, no dust!

Dave.

David Binkowski wrote:
Can someone explain to me the fascination with dado blades on table saws?
I use a router for all dados (it SEEMS easier). All woodworkers have at
least one router, so why do people use table saws for dados ?

"Marc" wrote in message
igy.com...

It's a good point and one I have considered a lot. Probably the reason I

am

asking a group so I can separate and distinguish my wants from my needs.

If

all I have is a shop with a great table saw, I'm not going to be able to

do

much. There will be more funds in the near future but what will I do

until

then? I have some nice hand tools, Japanese chisels, LN 4 1/2 plane, and

a

few other items. but I am using a router table for a jointer which is not
very suitable. I need some better squares and clamps etc. not to mention
WOOD, it's not cheap.

On the other hand maybe it is better to get this one big item

out-of-the-way

so I never have to consider it again, and slowly build a shop of only
quality items over time.

I've heard of people subsituting a quality band-saw and using it for a
table-saw duty, that is what laguana seems to suggest on their band saw
video. But I don't see how that could work, small table, no dado, table
tilts instead of blade, lateral limitation by yoke of band saw, I just

don't

see that working out.

It's a tough question, and it makes me realize how expensive this hobby

is.

Thanks for your input.

Marc

"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com" mbaglioNOSPAM wrote in message
. ..

On Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:26:40 GMT, "Marc"
wrote:

.....


5, and finally.) It will, (or should, anyway) cost you at least
another several hundred dollars for the quality support tools you will
need to reach the precision you say you demand. Squares, guages,
markers, chisels, planes, etc., aren't cheap. Matter o' fact they're
darned pricey. Are they in your budget? Can't do quality precision
work without them. What about Jointers, Planers, etc.?
Got Money? tm

......

Dave wrote:
I was building some vertical storage bins for framing fillet
recently and had to cut 1/4" dados in FULL sheets of MDF for
the backing... 3" apart. I cut 4 sheets in an hour and a
half. Could you do that with a router as quickly??? ;-)
Oh, yah, no dust!

FULL 4x8' sheets? You must have a great outfeed / infeed / side support
system. Or do you have one of those European monsters with the sliding
table attached?

-- Mark

:-) Yep, a full 4X8 sheet of 3/4 MDF on a 2X6 frame for
outfeed, and a workbench ahead of the saw at the same
height. The 52" fence required a LONG table extension that
does the rest! I have a 36-650 CS in the middle of all
that! :-) Does a great job.

Dave.

Mark Jerde wrote:
Dave wrote:

I was building some vertical storage bins for framing fillet
recently and had to cut 1/4" dados in FULL sheets of MDF for
the backing... 3" apart. I cut 4 sheets in an hour and a
half. Could you do that with a router as quickly??? ;-)
Oh, yah, no dust!


FULL 4x8' sheets? You must have a great outfeed / infeed / side support
system. Or do you have one of those European monsters with the sliding
table attached?

-- Mark

Thanks for everyones advice and comments. I bought a right-tilt Delta
x-unisaw with a 50 inch Beis at the Arlington TX woodworking show this last
weekend. I'm satisfied with my decision and look forward to using the saw.

Marc

"Marc" wrote in message
igy.com...
Ok, I am know various permutations of this question have been asked
before
(I've done google searchs and read reviews), but I still need some more
specific and up-to-date input.

I am building a wood working shop,. Over the course of a year or so I
have
read books on woodworking, watched NYW on TV, and I have built chess
boards,
boxes, and a workbench, mostly simple stuff with relatively cheap tools.
I
have decided I like the hobby and want to invest in some quality tools.
Currently I have a $200 portable craftsman table saw. Usually in a hobby
I
go as cheap as possible until I decide if I like it or not, then I try to
go
quality so I don't re-buy. So I am going to buy either a cabinet saw
(unisaw, powermatic, grizzly, shop fox, etc.) or a contractor saw. If I
go
with a good contractor saw like deltaX 36-507x I'll have plenty of money
for other things but I don't want to do that if I am putting myself in a
situation where I need to upgrade in the future. It boils down to the
question: will I be able to tell the difference between a contractor or
cabinet saw at a hobbyist level of use? Are cabinet saws mostly just for
production type work in a cabinet shop or are they more precise and better
suited for a hobbyist who wants to only make a few fine pieces? Is a
grizzly cabinet saw better buy than a deltaX contractor saw (they cost the
same)? Right now I am leaning toward just putting about $2000 into a good
cabinet saw, dado set, portable base, and tenon jig. I have the room and a
220 outlet. If you think there is a better way to go please give me your
advice before I make an expensive mistake. I plan to use the saw for a
lifetime and make everything from furniture to a doghouse with it, but it
will only be in my spare time and weekends. I don't know if it makes a
difference but I am very big on precision, I like things to fit perfect.
Any advice would be appreciated.

It's been 2 whole days...48 hours...and you haven't made sawdust yet? Don't
tell us you took time out to sleep in the last 2 days. lol
"Marc" wrote in message
. ..
Thanks for everyones advice and comments. I bought a right-tilt Delta
x-unisaw with a 50 inch Beis at the Arlington TX woodworking show this
last
weekend. I'm satisfied with my decision and look forward to using the
saw.

Marc

"Marc" wrote in message
igy.com...
Ok, I am know various permutations of this question have been asked
before
(I've done google searchs and read reviews), but I still need some more
specific and up-to-date input.

I am building a wood working shop,. Over the course of a year or so I
have
read books on woodworking, watched NYW on TV, and I have built chess
boards,
boxes, and a workbench, mostly simple stuff with relatively cheap tools.
I
have decided I like the hobby and want to invest in some quality tools.
Currently I have a $200 portable craftsman table saw. Usually in a
hobby
I
go as cheap as possible until I decide if I like it or not, then I try
to
go
quality so I don't re-buy. So I am going to buy either a cabinet saw
(unisaw, powermatic, grizzly, shop fox, etc.) or a contractor saw. If
I
go
with a good contractor saw like deltaX 36-507x I'll have plenty of
money
for other things but I don't want to do that if I am putting myself in a
situation where I need to upgrade in the future. It boils down to the
question: will I be able to tell the difference between a contractor or
cabinet saw at a hobbyist level of use? Are cabinet saws mostly just
for
production type work in a cabinet shop or are they more precise and
better
suited for a hobbyist who wants to only make a few fine pieces? Is a
grizzly cabinet saw better buy than a deltaX contractor saw (they cost
the
same)? Right now I am leaning toward just putting about $2000 into a
good
cabinet saw, dado set, portable base, and tenon jig. I have the room and
a
220 outlet. If you think there is a better way to go please give me
your
advice before I make an expensive mistake. I plan to use the saw for a
lifetime and make everything from furniture to a doghouse with it, but
it
will only be in my spare time and weekends. I don't know if it makes a
difference but I am very big on precision, I like things to fit perfect.
Any advice would be appreciated.