I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional house.
(There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in place. The
liner's clear, 10' by 25'. Need anymore details, JOAT?) I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

I'm not going to get a framing nail gun due to a $200 compound miter saw
purchase a few days ago. Renting one is unfortunately not an option, as
all the rental places I called have them rented out already.

I did do the research on Google, and found little of value.

Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...

I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional house.
(There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in place. The
liner's clear, 10' by 25'. Need anymore details, JOAT?) I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

A couple of pros did some repairs to our garage earlier this year and there
wasn't a nail in any of their framing, cordless hammer drills and 3"
Phillips flat-heads worked like a charm, the only nails used were for the
siding. I added some more framing later to put up interior sheathing and
shelves and used their approach, I'm sold on it. If you ever need to make
repairs to the rink screws might make that easier than nails.

DGDevin wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...

I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional house.
(There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in place. The
liner's clear, 10' by 25'. Need anymore details, JOAT?) I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

A couple of pros did some repairs to our garage earlier this year and there
wasn't a nail in any of their framing, cordless hammer drills and 3"
Phillips flat-heads worked like a charm, the only nails used were for the
siding. I added some more framing later to put up interior sheathing and
shelves and used their approach, I'm sold on it. If you ever need to make
repairs to the rink screws might make that easier than nails.



I"m putting up an exterior shell around
my shed/shop to hold insulation. So it's
framing of a sort, all 2x4. I started
out nailing with 4" nails and switched
over to 3" screws with square heads. I
think they're available at McFeely's in
the US. I agree with Mr Devin; it's much
easier and for my purposes, more than
adequate in strength.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

Tanus wrote:
DGDevin wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...

I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional
house. (There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in
place. The liner's clear, 10' by 25'. Need anymore details,
JOAT?) I've never done framing before, and have hardly used a
hammer to drive in a nail longer than in inch. So, my question
is,
what techniques do I need to use to make sure I can get the nail
in
straight and effectively? Would a framing hammer make that much
of
a difference? I've got a regular "standard" hammer that I've been
using with some success.

A couple of pros did some repairs to our garage earlier this year
and there wasn't a nail in any of their framing, cordless hammer
drills and 3" Phillips flat-heads worked like a charm, the only
nails used were for the siding. I added some more framing later to
put up interior sheathing and shelves and used their approach, I'm
sold on it. If you ever need to make repairs to the rink screws
might make that easier than nails.



I"m putting up an exterior shell around
my shed/shop to hold insulation. So it's
framing of a sort, all 2x4. I started
out nailing with 4" nails and switched
over to 3" screws with square heads. I
think they're available at McFeely's in
the US. I agree with Mr Devin; it's much
easier and for my purposes, more than
adequate in strength.

SPAX screws and a impact driver do a dandy job.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Jan 18, 5:30 pm, Puckdropper wrote:
.................................................. .
I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.


practice, mostly.

if you're driving 16d nails you'll probably want to get a hammer with
at least a 20oz head and a toothed striking face. if you can find a
place that will let you drive a handful of nails with a variety of
hammers you will have a better idea of what is likely to work for you.
handle length, handle shape, head weight, head shape, these all are
user preference things that will make a lot of difference in getting
the nail in straight and with the minimum number of whacks.

I think for a first framing hammer I'd recommend something like this:
http://doitbest.com/Hammers-Vaughan-...-999-doitbest-
sku-301701.dib

wrote in
:

On Jan 18, 5:30 pm, Puckdropper wrote:
..................................................
I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail
longer than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need
to use to make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively?
Would a framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a
regular "standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.


practice, mostly.

I'm not afraid of practice, but it sure does help to know what you're
supposed to be doing when you do practice. I know you can't buy skill,
but you sure can expedite the process with a good description of how to
do something properly.

if you're driving 16d nails you'll probably want to get a hammer with
at least a 20oz head and a toothed striking face. if you can find a
place that will let you drive a handful of nails with a variety of
hammers you will have a better idea of what is likely to work for you.
handle length, handle shape, head weight, head shape, these all are
user preference things that will make a lot of difference in getting
the nail in straight and with the minimum number of whacks.

I'll take a look around a couple hardware stores. The tools I've gotten
from one local industrial supply store have been good tools. They're
not always cheap, but quality usually isn't.

I think for a first framing hammer I'd recommend something like this:
http://doitbest.com/Hammers-Vaughan-...-999-doitbest-
sku-301701.dib

Thanks for the suggestion.

Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" wrote:
I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail
longer than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need
to use to make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively?

Kind of like getting into a knife fight, the guy with the S&W .44 is going
to win.

IOW, bigger is better.

You want to drive 16d nails, get a 24 OZ framing hammer with a serrated
face. (I like wooden handles, but that is personal choice)

After a couple of hours the first day, you will probably wish your arms
would fall off.

Yes, I'm assuming you will get to be ambidexterous with that hammer.

About the time you are finished framing, your arms will be in shapegrin.

BTW, after you bend a few nails driving them incorrectly, it will be
intutive how to correct the problem.

It's an OTJT kind of thing.

BTDT, don't ever want to do it again.

Have fun.

Lew

a framing hammer w/ 16" handle 20-24 oz. will help. for a guy that is
only occational user i'd say 20 oz would be a little more user freindly.
beware of the waffled head if you hit yourself it's like a meat
tenderizer. i've always liked the estwing brand
ross

Ross Hebeisen wrote:
a framing hammer w/ 16" handle 20-24 oz. will help. for a guy that is
only occational user i'd say 20 oz would be a little more user freindly.
beware of the waffled head if you hit yourself it's like a meat
tenderizer. i've always liked the estwing brand
ross

Agreed on Estwing. Swing a 20-24 oz for a bit and take a rest. Just
don't get so sore you don't want to see another hammer. After a couple
days, your forearms get to looking like Popeye's. The ladies will
drool. :-) As with most things, think moderation.

mahalo,
jo4hn

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
reenews.net...


I'm not afraid of practice, but it sure does help to know what you're
supposed to be doing when you do practice. I know you can't buy skill,
but you sure can expedite the process with a good description of how to
do something properly.

Always true, but you can also make much more of something than you should.
You know - analysis paralisys. It's just nailing. For framing I use a 22oz
hammer. A 20oz will work if you prefer. I don't use a really long handled
hammer because they don't swing as well in my hand - that's something you
can immediatley tell by handling one in a store. After that, it's just
nailing. Hit 'em hard and hit 'em square.



I'll take a look around a couple hardware stores. The tools I've gotten
from one local industrial supply store have been good tools. They're
not always cheap, but quality usually isn't.


You'll be hard pressed to find a hammer that is not up to the task. Don't
let youself fall into a trap of overbuying "quality" that will never factor
into your use of a hammer. I still frame with a couple of Stanley hammers
that I bought decades ago, before I realized that it was much cooler to use
an Estwing. I've proven time and time again that I can hit my thumb just as
easily with a Stanley as I can with someone's Estwing.

Now - quite stalling with all of these questions and go buy a decent hammer
and get to work. You keep this up and the warm whether is going to get here
and you'll look silly with a brand new ice skating rink in you back yard in
May.

--

-Mike-

Puckdropper wrote:
I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional
house. (There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in
place. The liner's clear, 10' by 25'. Need anymore details,
JOAT?) I've never done framing before, and have hardly used a
hammer to drive in a nail longer than in inch. So, my question is,
what techniques do I need to use to make sure I can get the nail in
straight and effectively? Would a framing hammer make that much of
a difference?

Whether or not you need a framing hammer depends on what you are
nailing and how big the nails are. Main difference is the waffle
("non-slip") face and the weight. Mine is 26 oz. and it is a HEAVY
SUCKER!! It *does* drive the big stuff into the hard stuff. It also
gives you sore arms. If you can drive what you want with the hammer
you have now there is no reason not to use it.

Nails don't have to go straight; i.e., at 90 degrees to the wood face.
In fact, angled nails hold things together better. If, by "straight",
you mean continuing in the direction you want it to go then the main
factor is for the hammer head to hit the nail head squarely (not at an
angle) and centered.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 19 Jan 2008 00:30:01 GMT, Puckdropper
wrote:

I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional house.
(There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in place. The
liner's clear, 10' by 25'. Need anymore details, JOAT?) I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

I'm not going to get a framing nail gun due to a $200 compound miter saw
purchase a few days ago. Renting one is unfortunately not an option, as
all the rental places I called have them rented out already.

I did do the research on Google, and found little of value.

Puckdropper

One thing I think is important when getting started is don't force it.
Let the hammer weight do the work. So what if it take a couple of
more swings to drive the nail. In the end, you'll bend a lot less and
probably won't be as tired in the end. As with anything, with
practice you'll get better and will be able to drive a 16d nail with a
couple of swings.

As stated before, the most important thing is to hit the nail head
center and square.

My $.02 worth
Bill

On Jan 18, 4:30*pm, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional house. *
(There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in place. *The
liner's clear, 10' by 25'. *Need anymore details, JOAT?) *I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. *So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? *Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? *I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

I'm not going to get a framing nail gun due to a $200 compound miter saw
purchase a few days ago. *Renting one is unfortunately not an option, as
all the rental places I called have them rented out already.

I did do the research on Google, and found little of value.

Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

I swung a hammer for 25+ years, so I have a little experiece with
this.
Frist off I wood get a wooden handle hammer, (a 20 oz worked for me)
with a milled face.
The wooden handle has less vibration, which will help with the wrist.
The milled face helps prevent "skipping" the nail thus reducing the
chance of bending the nail.
When you bend the nail, and when you go to remove it, grab the nail
and bend it sideways, not straight back. It took replacing a couple of
handles before I learned that trick.
When driving the nail, set the nail with just a couple of light taps,
then take your hand and place behind your back, and swing with your
arm, not your wrist.
I think the best method would be to use screws, they might take a
little longer, but you dont have to worry about them backing out.
Good luck

I like the way my Hart 22 oz hammers feel. Wood handle. Straight,
not the ax handle California style. I think I have both the smooth
and waffle face versions. When I have to nail, I use one of these
hammers. For everything including 4d finish nails. For demolition
work I have a steel handle, rubber grip Craftsman 22 oz hammer. I get
blisters with this hammer if I use it for nailing. I wear gloves for
demolition work. Long ago when I bought the first Hart hammer I also
tried one of those 14 oz titanium high dollar hammers along side the
Hart in the store. It took quite a few more swings and thus more work
to drive nails with the light weight titanium hammer.

Fortunately I don't use any hammers much anymore. I have several
cordless drills and boxes of various length drywall screws. Someday
I'll get air nailers of various sizes when I have a big enough job to
need them.


On Jan 18, 6:30*pm, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm working on building an ice rink, framed like a conventional house. *
(There will be a sheet of plywood to hold the liner in place. *The
liner's clear, 10' by 25'. *Need anymore details, JOAT?) *I've never done
framing before, and have hardly used a hammer to drive in a nail longer
than in inch. *So, my question is, what techniques do I need to use to
make sure I can get the nail in straight and effectively? *Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? *I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

I'm not going to get a framing nail gun due to a $200 compound miter saw
purchase a few days ago. *Renting one is unfortunately not an option, as
all the rental places I called have them rented out already.

I did do the research on Google, and found little of value.

Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Jan 18, 7:30 pm, Puckdropper wrote:
Would a
framing hammer make that much of a difference? I've got a regular
"standard" hammer that I've been using with some success.

In my hands, it makes a big difference whether the "standard" hammer
has
a flat or a bell (convex) face. On a project where I was nailing
shiplap
siding on a garage all day long, the flat face was an enormous help.
When your
tired hands don't dead-center the hammer face on the nail, the nail
still goes
in nice and straight.

The waffle-face framing hammers, suggested by others, work well too;
they
are designed to have the same advantage. And for big nails they are
much faster
than a 16 oz hammer.

-George.