I have a need to convert a 4 inch dust collection system to a smaller
1 1/2 inch connector on a belt & disk sanding station. Is the standard
size for 2 1/2 pipe, a inside or outside diameter? If it usually a
outside diameter, what is the usual inside measurements? If I purchase
2 1/2 inch flexible pipe where can I find the correct fittings to mate
the 2 1/2 inch pipe to the 1 1/2 in connector on the sander?

JT wrote:

I have a need to convert a 4 inch dust collection system to a smaller
1 1/2 inch connector on a belt & disk sanding station. Is the standard
size for 2 1/2 pipe, a inside or outside diameter? If it usually a
outside diameter, what is the usual inside measurements? If I purchase
2 1/2 inch flexible pipe where can I find the correct fittings to mate
the 2 1/2 inch pipe to the 1 1/2 in connector on the sander?

You will most likely have to reduce the 4" in two stages. First a 4" to
2.5" O.D. reducer and then use a "Universal Tool Adapter" which has a
"“stepped” design contains a 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2" external diameter
and a 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2-1/2" internal diameter connection. It also has
a square flange with mounting holes that can be used with a collection
box." See WoodCraft Product Number 142173:
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/...5983EBB27B7330

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

I wanted to hook my table saw up to a shop vac (no, it doesn't do a perfect
job, but gets 75%; and I have neither room nor budget for a dust collector)
but couldn't find an adaptor. So I made one out a PVC pipe fitting from the
plumbing department. Works great and only cost a dollar or so. It didn't
fit perfectly, but a wrap of duct tape took care of that.
Worth a try.

Another way is to bore a hole in a piece of 3/4" ply to fit the small
pipe and then cut out a disk with the hole in the center to fit inside
the larger one. Clear? Hummmmm...well you are really making a bushing
right? Cheap, easy and you don't have to make another trip to the
hardware store.
DD
PS A bit of duct tape is also needed...

"It's easy when you know how..."
Johnny Shines

Maybe yes, maybe no. They have stepped cone type adapters at most places,
but nothing seems standard in the world of connections. Duct tape on the
JET sander to use the same 2 1/2 setup that quickly and easily seals on the
Delta bandsaw. Description of the connections are the same in the
respective manuals.

That said, going down from 4" to a 1 1/2 isn't as good as just slapping my
old noisy wet/dry, with its high vacuum on my Bosch sanders. I'm sure the
fluid dynamics folks can tell you why.

"JT" wrote in message
...
I have a need to convert a 4 inch dust collection system to a smaller
1 1/2 inch connector on a belt & disk sanding station. Is the standard
size for 2 1/2 pipe, a inside or outside diameter? If it usually a
outside diameter, what is the usual inside measurements? If I purchase
2 1/2 inch flexible pipe where can I find the correct fittings to mate
the 2 1/2 inch pipe to the 1 1/2 in connector on the sander?

"George" wrote:
That said, going down from 4" to a 1 1/2 isn't as good as just slapping my
old noisy wet/dry, with its high vacuum on my Bosch sanders. I'm sure the
fluid dynamics folks can tell you why.

I've noticed the same thing. I've got a BT-3000 saw, which comes with a
blade shroud leading to a 2-1/2" port on the back. My 600 CFM dust
collector's 4" ductwork reduced down to 2-1/2" is almost useless
connected to it. My shop vac does a much better job. I now use the DC
mostly on my 12" planer with a 4" hose. The planer produces vastly more
debris than the table saw, yet the DC gets every drop.

Interestingly enough, I get much better dust collection with the regular
throat plate than I do with a zero-clearance insert. I suspect it had
to do with the wider slot in the regular plate allowing greater airflow.

No mystery. Turbulence around the "zero" clearance keeps a lot up top. It
even works that way on bandsaws, as I discovered when I put on one of those
UHMW plates.

"Roy Smith" wrote in message
...

Interestingly enough, I get much better dust collection with the regular
throat plate than I do with a zero-clearance insert. I suspect it had
to do with the wider slot in the regular plate allowing greater airflow.

So, it would probably be better to build a large shroud around the
sander, much like you would around a miter saw, right?
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 07:52:07 -0500, "George"
wrote:

Maybe yes, maybe no. They have stepped cone type adapters at most places,
but nothing seems standard in the world of connections. Duct tape on the
JET sander to use the same 2 1/2 setup that quickly and easily seals on the
Delta bandsaw. Description of the connections are the same in the
respective manuals.

That said, going down from 4" to a 1 1/2 isn't as good as just slapping my
old noisy wet/dry, with its high vacuum on my Bosch sanders. I'm sure the
fluid dynamics folks can tell you why.

Would be my choice, but point source better than large. There's a wealth of
fittings out there in plastic, or in metal at your heating store. I use
metal modified to fit my ancient planer, suppose you could make use of a
plenum connector (square) and some magnets or other fixed support if your
sander is on a dedicated table. I use one when sanding on the lathe, and
sticking it to the bed in the right position keeps the Kleenex clean even if
I forget the mask.

"JT" wrote in message
...
So, it would probably be better to build a large shroud around the
sander, much like you would around a miter saw, right?

By point source, I suppose you mean a shroud that is directed more at
the source of the dust rather than just large open cavity?

On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 07:21:53 -0500, "George"
wrote:

Would be my choice, but point source better than large. There's a wealth of
fittings out there in plastic, or in metal at your heating store. I use
metal modified to fit my ancient planer, suppose you could make use of a
plenum connector (square) and some magnets or other fixed support if your
sander is on a dedicated table. I use one when sanding on the lathe, and
sticking it to the bed in the right position keeps the Kleenex clean even if
I forget the mask.

Ayup.

Pretty easy to enlist rotation and gravity as allies. Remember the inverse
square rule, and keep it close.

"JT" wrote in message
...
By point source, I suppose you mean a shroud that is directed more at
the source of the dust rather than just large open cavity?

On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 07:21:53 -0500, "George"
wrote:

Would be my choice, but point source better than large. There's a wealth
of
fittings out there in plastic, or in metal at your heating store. I use
metal modified to fit my ancient planer, suppose you could make use of a
plenum connector (square) and some magnets or other fixed support if your
sander is on a dedicated table. I use one when sanding on the lathe, and
sticking it to the bed in the right position keeps the Kleenex clean even
if
I forget the mask.

Before I leave this subject of Dust Collection, I need another best
suggestion. What is the best way to connect standard 4 inch flex hose
to PVC piped DC system? Currently I am planning to use blast gates but
was wondering if there may be something better. I have seen where a
lot of folks on here use PVC piped systems but since the sizes are so
different I have often wondered what methods were used to connect
everything up.
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:53:14 -0500, "George"
wrote:

Ayup.

Pretty easy to enlist rotation and gravity as allies. Remember the inverse
square rule, and keep it close.

On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 21:16:46 -0500, JT wrote:

Before I leave this subject of Dust Collection, I need another best
suggestion. What is the best way to connect standard 4 inch flex hose
to PVC piped DC system?

I use aluminum blast gates, which are slightly smaller than the 4" PVC
Pipe, I glue the blast gate into the pipe with silicone sealant. On
the flex hose size I use a pipe clamp.